Emilia Romagna

♪♪ (Anthony) ONCE UPON A TIME, ITALY, FOR ME ANYWAY, WAS A STRANGE AND EXOTIC PLACE. THEY MADE BEAUTIFUL FILMS. THEY DROVE COOL AND INSANE CARS. AND THEY ATE DELICIOUS THINGS IN RESTAURANTS WHOSE NAMES I COULDN'T PRONOUNCE. ITALY WAS A WORLD THAT NO KID FROM AMERICA, YOU'D THINK, WOULD EVER DREAM OF ENTERING, CERTAINLY NOT A HIGH SCHOOL FOOTBALL PLAYER FROM THE MIDWEST, EXCEPT FOR MICHAEL WHITE. (man) AAH, YEAH! I'M ANTHONY BOURDAIN. THAT'S RIGHT! I WRITE. I TRAVEL. OH, LOOK OUT NOW! I EAT, AND I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE. ♪ OOH, YOU'VE GOT TO ♪ ♪ GET LOST ♪ ♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪ (bell tolling) MORNING IN THE TOWN OF IMOLA. THE CHEF COMES HOME. WILD STRAWBERRIES. SMELL THESE. ISN'T THAT AMAZING? OH, WOW. THE DISTINGUISHED GENTLEMAN REFERRING TO MICHAEL WITH SUCH OBVIOUS PRIDE IS GIANLUIGI MORINI, THE OWNER OF RISTORANTE SAN DOMENICO. THEIR UNUSUAL RELATIONSHIP HAS ITS ROOTS IN THAT ESTABLISHMENT. AND SAN DOMENICO'S ROOTS ARE HERE. THE EMILIA-ROMAGNA REGION-- STRADDLING THE COUNTRY BETWEEN MILAN AND FLORENCE IS ARGUABLY WHERE THE GOOD STUFF COMES FROM IN ITALY. THOUGH OFTEN OVERLOOKED BY TOURISTS IN FAVOR OF TUSCANY OR VENICE OR THOUGHT OF AS A PLACE TO PICK UP A HAM ON THE WAY TO ROME, IT HAS ITS OWN SUPERBLY TASTY CULINARY TRADITIONS THAT EXTEND FAR BEYOND ITS REPUTATION FOR PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO, MORTADELLA, PROSCIUTTO, CULATELLO, SALAMI, AND BALSAMIC VINEGAR. CHEFS KNOW THIS. YOU ARRIVED IN WHAT YEAR? I ARRIVED IN '93. DID YOU SPEAK ITALIAN? NO, I CAME WITH, UH, "CIAO, CAPPUCCINO." THAT WAS ABOUT IT. ONE CAN ONLY IMAGINE HOW THE COMICALLY GIGANTIC FRESH-FACED AMERICANO WAS LOOKED AT WHEN HE FIRST ARRIVED AT THIS LEGENDARY TEMPLE TO CUCINA NOBILE LOOKING FOR A JOB. BUT HE QUICKLY PROVED HIMSELF, WORKING HARD TO LEARN, WELL, EVERYTHING-- HOW TO MAKE PASTAS FROM SCRATCH, BUILD FLAVORS, BUTCHER EVERY VARIETY OF ANIMAL. OVER THE NEXT SEVEN YEARS MICHAEL LIVED AND BREATHED THIS RESTAURANT, BECOMING A PROTéGé TO CHEF VALENTINO MARCATTILII AND LIKE A SON TO MR. MORINI. AMERICANO. THAT WAS IT ALWAYS. AMERICANO. THE FOOD AND STYLE OF SERVICE AT SAN DOMENICO IS NOT TYPICAL OF EITHER THE REGION OR OF ITALY AS A WHOLE. IT'S ONE OF THE LAST HOLDOUTS AND A DIRECT DESCENDENT OF AN ITALIAN HAUTE CUISINE STYLE ONCE ENJOYED ONLY IN THE HOMES AND PALAZZOS OF THE TITLED AND VERY RICH. THESE WERE THE ACADEMIES FOR GENERATIONS OF COOKS TO LEARN SKILLS THAT FEW REMEMBER TODAY. (speaking Italian) CHEESE? DID I HEAR "CHEESE"? CHEESE. WE'RE GONNA GO TO THE CHEESE STORE. THIS IS WHY IT'S DIFFICULT TO GOVERN IN ITALY, BECAUSE THE-- THERE'S 300 OF EVERYTHING. EXACTLY. BUON GIORNO. BUON GIORNO. (laughs) THIS IS JUST UNBEARABLE. NO, IT'S--LISTEN. (laughs) THIS IS THE RICOTTA. WE GOTTA TASTE THIS, TOO, THOUGH. SO MANY TIMES WE'RE ALWAYS HANGING IT IN CHEESECLOTH TO GET THE WATER OUT. YOU SEE HOW DRY THIS IS, THOUGH. IT'S--I MEAN, THIS WAS DONE TODAY, THOUGH, THIS MORNING, EARLY. IS THAT UNBELIEVABLE? IT'S JUST NOT FAIR, MAN. WE CAN PRETTY MUCH CAN THE REST OF THE DAY, AND I'D BE HAPPY TO STAY IN HERE. NO PROBLEM. (speaking Italian) GRAZIE. BYE-BYE. (whispering indistinctly) OKAY. LOCAL CHEESE. (normal voice) LOCAL CHEESE. EVERYTHING IS LOCAL HERE TODAY. FRESH RICOTTA MADE THIS MORNING. PARMIGIANO LIKE YOU ONLY WISH YOU'D EVER TASTED. A FRESHLY LAID EGG, BRIGHT ORANGE YOLK INDICATIVE OF RICH, EGGY TASTE ONLY PEOPLE WHO LIVE ON FARMS USUALLY KNOW. FRESH SPINACH. THIS IS THE DISH THAT WHEN PEOPLE THINK OF SAN DOMENICO, THIS IS THE FIRST DISH THEY THINK OF. THAT'S RIGHT. YOU WANT IT, DON'T YOU? SAN DOMENICO'S WORLD-FAMOUS UOVO RAVIOLO. SO THIS IS NOT REALLY A RAVIOLI. IT'S A RAVIOLO. YEAH, EXACTLY. RAVIOLO-- THAT'S WHAT WE CALL 'EM. RAVIOLO? YEP. SO YOU'RE NOT DRILLING THESE OUT 500 AT A TIME. YOU CAN'T MAKE THESE AND THROW 'EM IN THE FREEZER. NO, NO. YOU HAVE TO DO THIS EVERY DAY. EVERY DAY. EVERY DAY. EVERY DAY. NOT TO GILD THE LILY OR ANYTHING, BUT SERVED WITH A LIGHT BROWN BUTTER AND MOREL MUSHROOM PAN SAUCE WITH-- OH, YEAH, HOW COULD I FORGET THIS-- A (bleep)-LOAD OF SHAVED TRUFFLE ON TOP. SO YOU READY? I'M READY. YOU'RE IN THE PLACE WHERE THIS CAME FROM. I AM READY. LOTS OF IMITATORS. THERE YOU GO. ACCEPT NO SUBSTITUTES. WE'LL MAKE A LITTLE CUT HERE. OH, LOOK AT THAT. OH. YOU'LL SEE THAT COME OUT... YEAH. LIKE THAT. MMM. THAT IS A LUXURIOUS (bleep) DISH. WOW. IT'S BEEN HERE FOR 42 YEARS. HEY, YOU KNOW, GOOD IS GOOD FOREVER. ABSOLUTELY. ABSOLUTELY. YEAH, ONE MORE BITE. OKAY. MMM. WHAT DID THOSE RICH ARISTOCRATIC TWITS KNOW? CRUNCHING THE BONES OF THE WORKING CLASSES UNDER THE WHEELS OF THEIR EXPENSIVE MOTOR CARS... (engine revs) AND HAVING SEX WITH BELLINE AND SUPERMODELS. (engine revs) SPEAKING OF EXPENSIVE CARS... (engine revs) I JUST HAPPENED TO SEE THIS LITTLE THING WITH THE KEYS STILL IN AND THE MOTOR RUNNING OUT FRONT OF THE HOTEL. OTHER THAN THE HALF-EATEN BARBECUED PORK NORI ROLL UNDER THE DRIVER'S SEAT, THE GLOVE COMPARTMENT FILLED WITH TUBES OF SILVER HAIR TINT, AND THE NICKELBACK CD IN THE SOUND SYSTEM, IT SEEMED TO PERFECT ORDER. I FIGURED THE OWNER WOULDN'T MIND IF I TOOK IT FOR A SPIN. TWO HOURS OF BLISSFUL DRIVING LATER, ENGINE MAKING DEEPLY SATISFYING THROBBING SOUNDS AS WE WIND THROUGH THE MOUNTAIN ROADS, WE ARRIVE AT ANTICA CORTE PALLAVICINA ALONG THE PO RIVER WHERE IN A SERIES OF ADJOINING, DARK, MAGICAL CELLARS HANG THE ROYAL FAMILY OF CULATELLO. MADE FROM THE ***-OUT CENTER CUT OF PORK SHOULDER, OR MORE OFTEN BUTT, SEWN INTO A BLADDER, THEN HUNG FOR TWO YEARS OR MORE. CULATELLO IS THE SINE QUA NON OF CURED MEAT. BUT AS MASSIMO SPIGAROLI EXPLAINS, WHERE IT'S HUNG IS PERHAPS MOST IMPORTANT. (Anthony) WOW. WOW, LOOK AT THIS. 700 YEARS. (Michael) HUMIDITY IS VERY IMPORTANT FOR CULATELLA. THAT'S WHY IT'S DONE ALONG THE PO RIVER. SO YOU NEED A CERTAIN AMOUNT... YOU NEED MOISTURE. TO FEED THE, UH, THE CULTURE. BUT YOU DON'T WANT TOO MUCH HUMIDITY, 'CAUSE THEN IT WILL ROT THE MEAT. EXACTLY. IT IS THE PERFECT EXAMPLE OF A CONFLUENCE OF THE LIGHT AND DARK FORCES LEADING TO TRANSCENDENCE AS MEAT AND ANCIENT MOLD CULTURES AND CONSIDERABLE SKILL TRANSFORM OVER TIME THE ORDINARY TO THE SUBLIME. THIS IS A PROCESS BASICALLY UNCHANGED SINCE THE 1600s. SALT AND WINE IS MASSAGED INTO THE MEAT. OH, AND THIS ONE BEING TRUSSED UP NOW-- A LITTLE SOMETHING MICHAEL AND I WILL SHARE A COUPLE OF YEARS DOWN THE ROAD. (Anthony) IT'S A THING OF BEAUTY, ISN'T IT? (Michael) IT REALLY IS. LISTEN, SO WE HAVE TO MAKE A PLAN NOW. WE'LL HAVE TO COME BACK IN TWO YEARS. YOU'RE NOT COMING BACK HERE ALONE. WE GOTTA BE TOGETHER. OKAY, WE'LL BE TOGETHER. OKAY. THIS WILL NOT BE AVAILABLE TO EITHER OF US ALONE. AND I TRUST YOU TO A POINT. THIS IS A PORK PRODUCT, THOUGH. YEAH, IT IS. I MEAN, YOU GOTTA DRAW THE LINE IN THE SAND SOMEWHERE. BUT I DON'T KNOW. (speaking Italian) CULATELLO. BELLISSIMO. BEAUTIFUL. IT'S THEN CAREFULLY HUNG IN THE MAGICAL, MYSTERIOUS ROOM NEXT DOOR. THIS CELLAR HOLDS 5,000 CULATELLI MAXIMUM. AND LIKE WITH A BOUTIQUE VINTAGE WINE, NO ONE VENDOR, NO SINGLE BUYER ANYWHERE IS ALLOTTED MORE THAN 45 PER YEAR. MICHAEL AND I STRUGGLE TO FIND ROOM FOR OUR JOINT VENTURE, FINALLY SQUEEZING OUR PORK, SO TO SPEAK, BETWEEN THESE TWO GUYS-- "ALAN--ALAN DOO-CASE"? NEVER HEARD OF HIM. PRINCE OF WHAT? YEAH, RIGHT. SHOVE OVER, BUDDY. ♪♪ (Anthony) IT'S INCREDIBLE. IT'S ALMOST FLORAL. AND THINK, THIS IS 30 MONTHS OLD, AND IT'S STILL JUST FRESH. I MEAN, WHEN YOU LOOK AT THAT DOWNSTAIRS WITH ALL THAT MOLD ON IT, I WAS EXPECTING A-A FUNK. AND I LIKE DEEP FUNK IN CURED MEAT, FOR SURE. IT'S A BLUE CHEESE KIND OF SMELL, YOU KNOW, THAT-- YEAH, BUT THERE'S NO SWEET IN THERE, BUT IT IS ALMOST A SWEET. FOR LACK OF A BETTER WORD, IT'S VERY VIBRANT AND FRESH. YEAH. VIVACE. (speaking Italian) HE NEEDS TO WORK TONIGHT, SO... BUT, TONY... WE DO NOT. WE DO NOT. THIS IS OUR LAST BIT OF GRUELING WORK OF THE DAY. WELL, CHEF WHITE, IN TWO YEARS WE MEET AGAIN HERE. THE FAMILIES? WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY FAMILY EXACTLY? (laughs) I'M CUTTING OUT MY NEAREST AND DEAREST ALREADY. WELL, FAR AND AWAY THE BEST I EVER HAD. AND I WANT MORE. ♪♪ ♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪ ♪♪ THEY CALL THE CITY OF BOLOGNA "THE RED CITY." ALSO, AND I PREFER THIS, LA GRASSA-- "THE FAT CITY." (speaking Italian) (Michael) WOW. FAMOUS FOR ITS FOOD, OF COURSE... WHOA, THAT-- OH, THAT LOOKS GOOD. WHOA. STOP IN THERE LATER. BUT ALSO ITS TRATTORIAS, OSTERIAS, OLD ARCADES, PORTICOS, STREETSIDE MARKETS... WHOA, ARE THOSE LITTLE EELS? YEAH, NEONATA. NICE. SURROUNDED EVERYWHERE BY PORNOGRAPHICALLY BEAUTIFUL PRODUCTS. BEING IN IMOLA AND THEN COMING HERE-- I WOULD BE HERE EVERY WEEK, YOU KNOW, HANGING OUT WITH THE GUYS, COME FOR BEERS, 'CAUSE THERE'S SO MUCH MORE ACTION HAPPENING HERE. BUT I NEED A NEGRONI. IT MAY NOT BE LOCAL, BUT I'M PRETTY SURE IT'LL MAKE ME FEEL BETTER ABOUT SHOVING ANOTHER MEAL IN MY FACE. GRAZIE. I AM PLEASED. THIS IS A MAN-SIZED NEGRONI HERE. CHEERS. SALUTE. OH. WOW. THAT'S ON FIRE. THIS IS WHY IT'S SO GREAT TO BE ITALIAN. AT 55 AS AN AMERICAN, THERE'S NO WAY I CAN GET AWAY WITH THE CLOTHES THAT ITALIAN MEN AT 55 CAN GET AWAY WITH. IT WOULD BE CONSIDERED *** ON AN AMERICAN. YELLOW PANTS OR RED PANTS. YEAH, RED PANTS. I REALLY WANT TO. I DO. I WANT TO WEAR MY WRISTWATCH ON THE OUTSIDE OF MY SHIRT. (laughs) 62 AND YOUR GUT BALLOONING OUT OVER YOUR (bleep) SILVER LAMé SPEEDO. I'M LAUGHING 'CAUSE I CAN TOTALLY VISUALIZE IT. YOU'RE DOING THE WHITE MAN OVERBITE DANCE ON YOUR BOAT. YOU'RE DRIVING A (bleep) FERRARI. YOU'VE GOT A 22-YEAR-OLD GIRLFRIEND AND NO SHAME AT ALL. YEAH. PERFECTLY OKAY. THERE'S A TINY, DARK PART OF ME THAT WANTS TO BE ABLE TO GET AWAY WITH IT. THIS GUY'S TOTALLY ROCKING THE SWEATER-TIED- AROUND-THE-NECK LOOK. YEP. I CAN'T DO THAT. THERE'S JUST NO WAY. NO. THERE'S NO WAY. (speaking Italian) OH, THAT'S NICE. WE HAVE CHOSEN WELL TODAY. NICE. OKAY, ALL RIGHT. (speaking Italian) I'M GONNA SEE HOW YOU DO THIS, SIR. HOT PANCAKE. I THINK WE'LL JUST GO IN HERE LIKE THIS, AND-- YOU'RE MAKING A SANDWICH. LOOK AT HOW THIN THIS IS, THOUGH, TOO. AND THAT'S VERY KEY-- EXACTLY DRAPING THAT WAY AND NOT JUST LAYING IT FLAT. IT CREATES A-- I HAPPEN TO KNOW THE SCIENCE. YEP. IT CREATES MORE SURFACE AREA, THEREFORE EXPOSING MORE OF THE SUBSTANCE TO MORE PAPILLAS OF THE TONGUE. THIS COULDN'T BE MORE CIVIL. A GOOD NEGRONI, SOME PERFECT THINLY SLICED MORTADELLA. CHEERS. WHAT OTHER PRIVILEGES MIGHT I ENJOY AS AN ITALIAN? BEING ABLE TO HAVE A PURSE, YOU KNOW, LIKE WE CALL A... A MAN PURSE. A "MURSE." A MURSE. THEY DON'T LIKE PUTTING EVERYTHING IN THEIR POCKETS. THAT GUY'S GOT ONE. HE'S GOT A FERRARI MURSE HANGING DOWN OVER HIS ***. YEAH. REALLY? AND HE'S GOT IT IN CODPIECE POSITION. IS THERE SOME AGE THAT I CAN DO THAT? I THINK AFTER 60 YOU CAN DO WHATEVER THE (bleep) YOU WANT. THAT'S WHAT MY DAD SAYS TO ME. (laughs) SING TO ME, OH, WONDERFUL CAR. LET ME HEAR YOUR GENTLE BURBLINGS, YOUR FULL-THROATED ROAR. GOD, I AM LOVING THIS CAR. WHAT IS IT WITH SPEEDOS HERE? EVERYBODY'S STILL WEARING 'EM. DON'T KNOCK THE BANANA HAMMOCK. (laughs) THE BANANA... HOW WOULD YOU SAY THAT IN ITALIAN? AMACA DI BANANA. AMACA DI BANANA. WHAT'S THE NAME OF THIS TOWN? THIS IS CALLED BORGO TOSSIGNANO. AND "BORGO" IS A SMALL AREA, AND TOSSIGNANO IS UP ON THE HILL. BACK IN THE DAY WHEN MICHAEL WAS TOILING ALL DAY AND INTO THE NIGHT, HE FOUND THAT DURING THE RARE DOWNTIMES BETWEEN SERVICES, MANY OF HIS FELLOW COOKS WOULD FREQUENT FAVORITE WATERING HOLES, THE SORT OF PLACE WHERE ONE CAN ENJOY SOME WINE PERHAPS AND A BITE OF MEAT OR TWO... OR PERHAPS IN OUR CASE TWO MAMMOTH DISCUS-SIZED T-BONES KNOWN AROUND HERE AS FIORENTINAS. (speaking Italian) TRATTORIA FITA LOOKS LIKE A TINY, LITTLE PLACE, A CASUAL JOINT, BUT IT'S GOT A CELLAR STACKED WITH REMARKABLE WINES AND CURED MEATS AND AN OPEN HEARTH RIGHT THERE IN THE CENTER OF THE DINING ROOM. SO WHILE YOU'RE DRINKING THE AMAZING WINE, YOU CAN WATCH YOUR MEAT SIZZLE AND SPIT OVER THE COALS. I'M FEELING SEPARATION ANXIETY BETWEEN ME AND MY CAR, WHO I SHALL CALL "SPARKY" FROM NOW ON... SPARKY? 'CAUSE HE'S RED LIKE A FIRE TRUCK. SO YOU-- IT'S LIKE A MIDLIFE CRISIS CAR. OH, YEAH, TOTALLY. I'M THINKING BAD THOUGHTS, YOU KNOW? A CAR THAT'S TOO YOUNG FOR ME, THOUGH IT DID, I THINK, MAKE ME MORE ATTRACTIVE. I THINK I LOOKED ATTRACTIVE IN THAT CAR. I FELT ATTRACTIVE. FANTASTIC. OH, THIS IS-- THIS IS HOME PROSCIUTTO. OH, MAN, OH, MAN. HE MAKES THIS? YEAH. LOOK AT THAT. YOU CAN SEE RIGHT THROUGH IT. MMM. THIS IS FICATTOLA, A LOCAL FRIED BREAD... WOW, LOOK AT THAT, HUH? GOOD FOR SMEARING THIS STUFF... OH, WOW, COLD. SQUACQUERONE, AN AQUEOUS CHEESE WITH A CRISP FLAVOR. MMM. IT ALMOST HAS, LIKE, A COTTAGE CHEESE TASTE. OH, RIGHT, AND THEN THERE'S THESE THINGS-- TORTELLI--DELICATE TRIANGLE-SHAPED PASTA ENVELOPES FILLED WITH GOAT CHEESE DRESSED LIGHTLY IN BUTTER AND SAGE. AND THIS--FRESH GNOCCHI MADE WITH A RAGOUT OF STINGING NETTLE AND SAUSAGE ON A PUDDLE OF SQUACQUERONE CREAM SAUCE. WOW. IT'S SO DELICATE. OH, GOD, THIS IS PASTA THAT I'VE BEEN DREAMING OF. SO THE GNOCCHI ARE COLORED BY THE PURéE OF THE... THE PURéE. THEY BLANCH IT, BLEND IT, AND IT HAS THAT SQUACQUERONE CHEESE WHAT THEY CALL FONDUTA-- OR FONDUE. I GOTTA TELL YOU, THESE ARE TWO OF THE MOST EXCITING PASTAS I'VE HEAD. AH. DELICIOUS. THE BASIC DISTINCTION OF A BISTECCA ALLA FIORENTINA IS THAT IT MUST BE THREE FINGERS THICK, A FEATURE THAT ALLOWS IT TO STAND ON ITS SIDE TO REST AT THE END OF COOKING. CUSTOMARILY SERVED QUITE RARE. THE SIMPLEST OF PREPARATIONS-- SALT, PEPPER, A LITTLE OLIVE OIL. YEAH, LOOK AT THAT. (speaking Italian) LA CICCIA. THE FAT. BEAUTIFUL. WOW. AND SOMETHING TO GO ALONG WITH THE DINO STEAKS-- GOLETTA, A CRISPY CROSS-SECTION OF PORK NECK AND THROAT... LOOK AT HOW THEY COOK IT SO THAT IT GETS ALMOST LIKE CRACKLING, LIKE, UH, CHICHARRóN. YEAH. AND WHAT THEY CALL AROUND HERE "CRAZY SAUSAGE." WHAT IS IT, LUNG? UH, SPLEEN, LUNG, LIVER. MMM, GETTING A LOT OF FLAVOR OUT OF ALL THOSE LITTLE BITS. IT'S MAGNIFICENT. IT'S REALLY GOOD. WE'VE ALREADY HAD THE... (squealing) NOW WE'RE GOING TO THE... (mooing) WOW. BUON APPETITO. GRAZIE. I'M GOING TO GIVE YOU THIS PIECE BECAUSE FRIENDS GIVE PEOPLE THE FATTY BITS. AW. SO PLEASE ENJOY. I GET THE BLOODY STUFF, RIGHT? AND YOU NEED TO PUT A LITTLE BIT MORE OIL... MMM. WOW. A LOT OF LAYERS OF FLAVOR IN THERE. WELL, YOU GET THE CRISPY BITS. MAN, IT'S CHARRED. IT'S JUST GETTING BETTER. THIS LOOKS... PERFECT. OKAY. ALL RIGHT. I'M DOWN WITH THE FIORENTINO. THE FLAVOR IS, UH... YEAH, SUPERB. IT'S REALLY GOOD. UNBELIEVABLE. VERY HAPPY. I CAN UNDERSTAND WHY YOU GUYS LIKE THIS ON YOUR DAY OFF FROM THE KITCHEN. ABSOLUTELY. WELL, YOU'RE ALL DRUNK. THEN THIS IS QUITE PERFECT... OF COURSE. PERFECT. (speaking Italian) THIS IS ANOTHER STEAK THAT THEY DO AS WELL HERE, THE SPECIALTY OF THE HOUSE. OH, YEAH? AS YOU SAY IN THE BOLOGNESE REGION, NON NE POSSO PIU, MEANING "I CAN'T DO ANY MORE." I'VE HEARD THAT AROUND THE HOUSE. (both chuckling) ♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪ ♪♪ (engine starts, revs) (tires squeal) JUST UP THE HILL FROM SAN DOMENICO IS EXACTLY THE PLACE YOU'D WANT TO BE IF YOU WERE AN OVERGROWN LITTLE BOY WITH SOMEBODY ELSE'S FERRARI CALIFORNIA AND SOMETHING OF A DEATH WISH. THE ENZO AND DINO FERRARI AUTODROMO, ONE OF THE MOST AWESOME AND I GUESS ONE MIGHT SAY DANGEROUS RACING CIRCUITS IN EUROPE. IT'S ONE OF THE MORE TECHNICALLY TRICKY TRACKS IN THE WORLD, RUNNING COUNTERCLOCKWISE FOR ONE AND BOASTING SOME NOTORIOUSLY TIGHT TURNS AND DECEPTIVE INCLINES. THEY'VE GOT NAMES FOR 'EM... BUT IT'S TAMBURELLO CORNER THAT HOLDS A PARTICULARLY TRAGIC HISTORY. IT'S WHERE 3-TIME WORLD CHAMPION F1 DRIVER AYRTON SENNA DIED AFTER SMASHING HIS CAR INTO A BARRIER. I'VE NEVER DRIVEN ANYTHING LIKE THIS MUCH CAR. AND MUCH AS I'D LIKE TO FANTASIZE ABOUT IT, I'M UNLIKELY TO EVER DRIVE ONE AGAIN. I AM MAKING THE MOST OF IT. TONY, YOU JUST BLEW A RED LIGHT. YEP. BUCKLE UP, BUDDY. NOW YOU WANT TO BE ON THIS SIDE. AND YOU'RE GONNA GO-- WHICH SIDE, LEFT? THIS SIDE. YEP. BUT SLOW DOWN. HOLY (bleep). (laughs) HOLY (bleep). THIS IS WHERE I GOTTA WATCH OUT, I'M TOLD. (tires squealing) (Michael) IT'S CALLED THE ACQUE MINERALI, THE MOST DANGEROUS CURVE IN EUROPE. (Michael yelling) (tires squealing) DON'T WORRY. I GOT IT. (laughs) OH, (bleep)! (laughs) NOW THIS IS A BLIND CORNER! (Michael) AAH! NOW BEHAVE ON THE STRAIGHTAWAY, OKAY? (sighs) OH, MAN. I MADE HIM A LITTLE NERVOUS. I DIDN'T KNOW THAT I COULD BE IN THIS MUCH DANGER IN A G-8 COUNTRY. DEVELOPED NATION? IT LOOKS LIKE A TAVERN ON A SLEEPY SMALL-TOWN STREET IN MODENA. MOM AND POP PEDRONI SERVE FRESH-MADE PASTA AND A FEW OTHER SIMPLE BUT DELICIOUS DISHES. BUT IT'S THE SUPERNATURALLY RICH, THICK SUBSTANCE THAT CUSTOMERS DRIZZLE SLOWLY, SLOWLY, EVERY SO SPARINGLY OVER THEIR FOOD THAT MAKES THIS PLACE WORLD-FAMOUS, AMONG THE BEST OF THE VERY BEST. MODENA IS WHERE BALSAMIC VINEGAR COMES FROM. YOU THINK YOU KNOW WHAT THAT IS. YOU DON'T. I DIDN'T EITHER, NOT REALLY. THERE'S INDUSTRIAL PRODUCTION OF BALSAMIC VINEGAR, AND THEN THERE'S THIS-- BALSAMICO DI MODENA TRADIZIONALE. BALSAMICO IN MODENA IS A FAMILY THING. THE TYPICAL FAMILY BASEMENT WILL HAVE WHAT GIUSEPPE REFERS TO AS A BATTERIA, OR BATTERY, A SEQUENCE OF FIVE TO SEVEN BARRELS, EACH ONE SMALLER THAN THE NEXT, WHERE THE BALSAMICO LIVES. FOR EVERY NEW SON, A BATTERY IS STARTED. (Giuseppe) THE TRADITION OF MODENA IS WHEN A NEW SON IS BORN, THE FATHER STARTS WITH A NEW BATTERY. AND THIS IS OUR BATTERY, MY BATTERY, MY PERSONAL BATTERY. PAPA, PAPA, PAPA, PAPA. Sì! THEY BETTER. THEY BETTER. ONE IS THEN COMMITTED, OBLIGED TO TAKE CARE OF ONE'S BATTERY FOR LIFE. THERE'S A BATTERY FOR GIUSEPPE'S GREAT-GRANDFATHER CESARE, ANOTHER FOR HIS SON, ALSO NAMED CESARE. UPSTAIRS-- WHAT HE CALLS THE "HEART." (Michael) ACETO MADRE BEING THE MOTHER VINEGAR. THIS IS THE STARTER. THE STARTER. THE STARTER. ESSENTIALLY, THOUGH, IN EVERY BATCH THERE IS SOME OF THE FIRST BATCH. EXACTLY. SO THIS IS A LIVING BEVERAGE. THE FACTORY PRODUCED (bleep)? TWO MONTHS TO MAKE FROM START TO FINISH. THIS--12 YEARS MINIMUM. SO THERE IS BALSAMICO, AND THEN THERE IS BALSAMICO. EXACTLY. AND THEY ARE COMPLETELY DIFFERENT PRODUCTS. DIFFERENT. ♪♪ THE DINING ROOM OF THE FAMILY TAVERN DOES NOT LOOK LIKE THE SORT OF PLACE WHERE PEOPLE WOULD BE POURING SOME OF THE WORLD'S MOST RARE AND EXPENSIVE CONDIMENT ON THEIR LUNCHES. WHOA, THAT'S NICE. (voices overlapping) THIS IS WHAT WE'VE BEEN WAITING FOR. YEAH. THAT'S SO GOOD. AND THIS IS GIUSEPPE-- FROM HIS BATTERY. THIS IS HIS BATTERY THAT WE SAW UPSTAIRS. HOW MANY BOTTLES DO YOU THINK THERE ARE OF THAT IN THE WORLD? NOT MANY. CHICKEN THIGHS BRAISED IN LAMBRUSCO. SPARERIBS SLOW-COOKED IN WHITE WINE WITH CIPOLLINI ONIONS. LAST, A FRITTATA. ALL OF IT GETS A TOUCH OR TWO OF THE ENCHANTED SUBSTANCE, THE STUFF OF DREAMS. OH, LOOK AT THAT. (indistinct conversation) LOOK AT THAT JUST CASCADING DOWN THE NOOKS AND CRANNIES. CAN YOU IMAGINE IF YOU LIVED DOWN THE STREET FROM HERE? YES, I COULD. WAIT A MINUTE, YOU HAVE LIVED DOWN THE STREET FROM HERE. YEAH. (laughs) OH. SO THIS CHEESE COMES FROM THE MONTAGNA, FROM THE MOUNTAINS, AGED AT LEAST 36 MONTHS. THEY GO TO GET IT THEMSELVES. BUT IT'S AT 1,000 METERS, SO ABOUT 3,000 FEET. SO THEY'RE EATING HERBACEOUS, DIFFERENT HEARTY GREEN GRASS. THIS IS REALLY ONE OF THE GREAT MEALS OF MY LIFE. I AM REALLY, REALLY ENJOYING THIS. NO, I'M-- YOU KNOW, WHEN I COME ACROSS CHEESE LIKE THIS, I EAT IT WITH A SENSE OF DESPERATION, BECAUSE I KNOW THIS IS IT FOR ME. YOU KNOW, I MAY NOT EVER, EVER HAVE THIS CHEESE... THIS MOMENT. OR CHEESE. MOMENT OR THIS CHEESE AGAIN. BUT THIS IS A SIMPLE, COUNTRY THING THAT EVERY FAMILY UNDERSTANDS HERE. THIS IS A TAVERN, BASICALLY. THIS IS NOT A FINE DINING RESTAURANT. OKAY, THEY MAY HAPPEN TO MAKE THE WORLD'S BEST BALSAMICO IN THE BACKYARD, BUT THIS IS BASICALLY A TAVERN. ♪♪ IF YOU WANT TO KNOW WHAT I REALLY THINK, BE SURE TO CHECK MY WEB SITE AT... ♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪ UNSURPRISINGLY, PEOPLE ARE HAPPY IN EMILIA-ROMAGNA. REALLY. I GOT THE FIGURES. STATISTICALLY, WHEN THEY ASK PEOPLE AROUND THE WORLD TO RATE THEIR GENERAL STATE OF SATISFACTION ON A SCALE, THE RESULT FROM PEOPLE AROUND HERE IS "WE'RE PRETTY (bleep) HAPPY." SO, MICHAEL, WHERE ARE WE? WE'RE IN TRE MONTI. THE THREE, UH, THE THREE HILLS. THREE MOUNTAINS? THREE MOUNTAINS OF IMOLA. YOU KNOW, BEING IN THE CITY IS ONE THING, BUT COMING HERE, IT'S A TOTAL DIFFERENT FEEL. AND THIS IS A VERY SPECIAL PLACE. NOT DIFFICULT TO UNDERSTAND AFTER A FEW DAYS OF EATING AMAZING HOMEMADE PASTAS AND DRINKING REALLY GOOD WINES. DID I SAY WINES? YES. YES, I DID. THEY MAKE WINE HERE, DELICIOUS WINE, LIKE HERE-- TRE MONTI VINEYARD, WHERE VITTORIO NAVACCHIA IS GROWING GRAPES WITH WHAT'S CALLED MINIMAL INTERVENTION, MOVING TOWARDS THE DAY WHEN HE CAN MAKE A FULL CONVERSION TO 100% ORGANIC. AND YOU MUST KNOW THAT MY WORK IS ABSOLUTELY VERY HARD, BECAUSE I MUST TASTE A LOT. YES. (laughs) YOU SEE WE HAVE A LOT OF CLAY, THAT WHITE CLAY. IT'S TOO FERTILE. YES, IT'S TOO FERTILE. THERE'S A POINT AT WHICH YOU WANT TO DEPRIVE YOUR GRAPES OF NUTRIENTS TO MAKE-- YOU WANT TO MAKE THEM WORK A LITTLE HARDER? YEAH. YEAH. IT'S CORRECT. YOU TORTURE THEM, ESSENTIALLY. (laughs) I THOUGHT COOKING WAS HARD TO DO. THIS SOUNDS LIKE-- YEAH. THIS IS, LIKE, WAY OVER MY HEAD. IN THE VINEYARD'S KITCHEN, MARINELLA RAGAZZINI IS MAKING TAGLIATELLE. THIS IS NOT HER FIRST TIME MAKING THIS DISH. WATCH THIS. WOW. ♪♪ OKAY. PERFETTO. (laughs) (Michael) VITTORIO, WHAT ARE WE DRINKING? (Vittorio) THE GRAPE IS THEA. THEA IS OUR BEST SANGIOVESE WINE. IT'S MY MOTHER'S NAME. MY MOTHER WITH MY FATHER WAS THE FOUNDER OF THE ESTATE. SHE DIED IN '89. AND SINCE '97 THE BEST SANGIOVESE WINE KEEP HER NAME. VERY WELL. CINCIN. CINCIN. MMM. DELICIOUS. YEAH. SILENCE. THAT'S A GOOD THING. (laughing) SO WHAT WOULD THE NEIGHBORS SAY ABOUT EMILIA-ROMAGNA? MAN, THAT WAS GOOD. WE ALL WORK FOR THIS SORT OF A DREAM. I MEAN, THE FANTASY IS TO BE SITTING AT A TABLE LIKE THIS, EATING FRESHLY MADE PASTA, DRINKING WINE THIS GOOD, AND LOOKING AT THIS. THIS IS WHAT EVERY SENSIBLE PERSON IN THE WORLD WANTS, AND YOU HAVE IT. I THINK SO. AND YOU GET TO WORK IN IT. A LITTLE MORE OF THAT. I'M REALLY ENJOYING THAT. (voices overlapping) I'LL HAVE A LITTLE BIT MORE OF EVERYTHING, ACTUALLY. IT'S MAKING ME VERY HAPPY. PERFETTO. SALUTE. THE LIFE OF THE WINEMAKER IS VERY HARD. (Michael) YES. (laughs) ♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪ BACK TO THE BEGINNING. GIANLUIGI MORINI OPENED THIS RESTAURANT WITH A DESIRE TO RE-CREATE A CUISINE THAT HAD BEFORE BEEN LARGELY CONFINED TO INSIDE THE HOMES OF THE ARISTOCRACY BACK WHEN ITALY STILL HAD A KING. HE LURED THE MOST FAMOUS CHEF IN ITALY OF THE TIME, NINO BERGESE, A MAN WHO HAD SPENT HIS LIFE IN THE SERVICE OF THE ROYALS, BACK OUT OF RETIREMENT AND CREATED THIS PLACE. HE MADE WHAT HAD BEEN THE EXCLUSIVE PROVINCE OF THE VERY, VERY FEW AND PRIVILEGED SOMETHING PEOPLE FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD COULD EXPERIENCE. HERE WE ARE, THE LEGENDARY SAN DOMENICO. WHEN'S THE LAST TIME YOU HAD A SILVER BASKET TO-- YEAH, THIS IS SO OLD SCHOOL. BUT THIS IS A LEVEL OF PREPARATION AND SERVICE YOU REALLY DON'T SEE ANYMORE. IT'S A LOST ART. YOU HAVE SOME VERY NICE CHINA MADE JUST FOR THE RESTAURANT. MADE FOR THE RESTAURANT. SILVER MADE JUST FOR THE RESTAURANT. THE CHAIRS ARE EXTRAORDINARY. ALL THE HANDWORKED LEATHER AND--IT'S SO CIVIL. THIS IS VALENTINO MARCATTILII, ONE OF MICHAEL'S MENTORS FROM HIS TIME HERE AT SAN DOMENICO. THIS IS MASSIMILIANO, HIS GRANDSON, THE NEXT GENERATION TO UPHOLD TRADITION. THIS KIND OF TABLE-SIDE SERVICE-- THEY DON'T DO THIS MUCH ANYMORE, ANYWHERE. TONNO FAGIOLI E CIPOLLA-- TUNA WITH BORLOTTI BEAN PURéE. TURBOT CONFIT WITH FRESH ASPARAGUS IN SEASON AND CLAMS FROM THE ADRIATIC. I HAVE TO GIVE YOU ONE OF THESE ASPARAGUS, BECAUSE IT'S JUST INCREDIBLE. THIS IS LOCAL FROM BOLOGNA. MMM. I MEAN, IT'S JUST-- WOW. I ASK THIS A LOT IN THIS PART OF THE WORLD. HOW COME IT'S SO MUCH BETTER? GENERALLY SPEAKING, IF OUR PRODUCE WAS LIKE THIS IN THE STATES, I WOULD BE EATING A LOT MORE VEGETABLES. A LOT MORE PRODUCE. I MEAN, IT'S EXCITING. WE EAT A SALAD, AND IT'S LIKE, WOW. WHOA. AH, THAT'S FANTASTIC. THAT'S BEAUTIFUL. SPAGHETTI DI GRAGNANO WITH CALAMARI, SEA URCHIN, MUSSELS, SHRIMP, AND BOTTARGA. GNOCCHI WITH LARDO FROM DEEP MARBLE TUBS IN THE TUSCAN HILLS OF COLONNATA, FRESH FAVA BEANS, AND BLACK TRUFFLE. WOW. YOU CAN TASTE THE SEA. SO HOW MANY SIMILAR INSTITUTIONS ARE THERE IN ITALY LIKE THIS. TRULY YOU HAVE TO SAY THIS IS UNICO. REALLY? WELL, DO YOUNG PEOPLE RESPECT THIS SORT OF THING, DO YOU THINK, BY AND LARGE? NO. NO. IT'S NOT A BRIGHT FUTURE. I HAVE TO BE QUITE HONEST WITH YOU. I THINK THAT-- AND HOPE WITH THE GOOD TRAINING THAT YOUNG COOKS ARE STILL GETTING HERE, THAT THIS WILL LIVE ON. I'VE GOT MY FINGERS CROSSED, I HAVE TO SAY. THIS PLACE NEEDS HIPSTERS. YEAH. I CAN'T BELIEVE THAT I'M SAYING THAT. BEARDS AND SMALL FEDORAS? FIRST YOU ENJOY IT IN A POST-IRONIC WAY. MM-HMM. BUT THEN YOU EAT THIS FOOD, AND IT'S, LIKE, LUXURY IS GOOD, YOU KNOW? YEAH. BUT DOES THAT MEAN THEY'RE GONNA COME IN, LIKE, THESE VERY, LIKE, TIGHT SHARKSKIN... YOU KNOW WHAT? WHO CARES? WHO GIVES A (bleep)? WHO CARES? IF THEY'RE SITTING THERE GRINNING HAPPY AND TELLING THEIR FRIENDS THAT THIS IS THE GREATEST THING THAT EVER HAPPENED-- AND THE FACT IS IT IS KIND OF THE GREATEST THING THAT EVER HAPPENED. I KNOW OF MAYBE TWO PLACES IN THE WORLD WHERE THEY DO THIS EVERY NIGHT-- ROAST YOU A NICE, RARE, PROPERLY HUNG DUCK, PRESENT IT TO YOU... LOOK AT THAT. WOW. THEN ROLL OUT THIS MAGNIFICENT OBJECT. WHEN I WAS WORKING HERE, I LOVED TO COME OUT AND DO THE DUCK. SO THAT'S WHY I WANTED YOU TO HAVE IT TONIGHT. AN ANTIQUE DUCK PRESS. A BIG SILVER DEVICE NEEDED FOR ONE OF THE GRAND CLASSICS OF GASTRONOMY-- CANARD á LA PRESSE, A CONTINENTAL SPECIALTY THAT WORKS LIKE THIS. ROAST DUCKS RARE. TABLE SIDE, AFTER PRESENTING THE DUCKS, SKILLFULLY REMOVE THE *** WITH A VERY SHARP KNIFE. SEAR THE *** IN A HOT PAN ON THE GUERIDON NEXT TO YOU. WHILE THE BONELESS *** FINISH IN THE PAN, DEFTLY SNIP THE CARCASS INTO PIECES. I NEED A PAIR OF THOSE SHEARS NEXT TIME I, UH, HAVE A CONVERSATION WITH SOMEBODY. PLACE IN DUCK PRESS. SLOWLY TURN THE SCREW ON THIS BEAUTIFUL MACHINE, CRUSHING AND SQUEEZING EVERY LITTLE BIT OF BLOOD, JUICE, DRIPPING, AND FLAVOR INTO THIS LIQUID OF THE GODS. OH, LOOK AT THAT. HOW MANY DUCK PRESSES DO YOU THINK THERE ARE ON THE ENTIRE PLANET? I GOTTA GO TO eBay BEFORE THIS SHOW COMES OUT, BECAUSE THEN... (laughter) 'CAUSE I WANT ONE. ADD TO THE PAN WITH A BIT OF DUCK STOCK AND COGNAC, COMBINING AND REDUCING BEFORE DRIZZLING CAREFULLY OVER THE PLATED ***. THAT IS PRICELESS. WOW. CAN I SAY A BOURDAIN-ISM? THIS DOESN'T SUCK. NO, IT DOES NOT. GARNISH WITH A MéLANGE OF CUTE LITTLE VEGETABLES, THE LITTLE TOMATO HAVING BEEN PREVIOUSLY STUFFED WITH A FORCEMEAT OF VEAL AND PARMIGIANO. AND THIS--THE ROASTED PINK DUCK'S LIVER ON THE SIDE. AND IT'S NOT JUST LIKE THESE KIDS TODAY--THEY DON'T KNOW. NO. YOU KNOW SOMETHING WHEN YOU EAT THIS, WHEN YOU'VE BEEN EXPOSED TO THIS. LIKE, SERIOUSLY, I DON'T EVEN CARE IF I'M ON TV. I'D (bleep) WIPE THIS WHOLE THING OUT RIGHT NOW. I'D GET DOWN ON MY KNEES AND TONGUE THIS THING OFF THE FLOOR. IT'S JUST COOL TO SEE ALL THIS. LIKE, I'M BEING EVEN, YOU KNOW, NOSTALGIC RIGHT NOW. YOU'RE A SENTIMENTAL MAN. I LIKE THAT. (laughs) ALL RIGHT, CHEERS, DUDE. CHEERS. THIS HAS BEEN AWESOME. EPIC. IT'S AN OVERUSED WORD, BUT IN THIS CASE IT TRULY IS. ♪♪ ♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪ LUXURY, PURE AND SIMPLE. DESSERTS, OF COURSE, AND SOME COGNAC. TIMES HAVE CHANGED, BUT MR. MORINI STILL MAINTAINS BENEATH HIS FEET ONE OF THE MOST EXTENSIVE AND PRICELESS COLLECTIONS OF WINES AND BRANDIES IN THE WORLD. IN HONOR OF THE RETURN OF THE PRODIGAL SON, THE AMERICANO, MICHAEL WHITE AND GUEST, MR. MORINI UNCORKS A BOTTLE OF BONAPARTE COGNAC FROM 1914. WHEN HE LOOKS OUT AT THE WORLD AT ALL OF HIS CHILDREN, RIGHT, ALL OF THE-- (Michael) MM-HMM. THAT'S WHAT HE CALLS THEM. HOW DOES HE FEEL? BUT MICHAEL WHITE, WHO MR. MORINI AND VALENTINO MENTORED ALL THOSE YEARS AGO, HAS DONE HIS BEST TO HONOR THEM AS WELL. IN 2008, HE TOOK OVER THE FORMER SAN DOMENICO SPACE ON MANHATTAN'S CENTRAL PARK SOUTH, TURNING IT INTO ONE OF THE MOST CELEBRATED AND SUCCESSFUL GAME-CHANGING ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN THE COUNTRY. I'M CURIOUS HOW YOU FELT WHEN YOU HEARD THAT MICHAEL WAS GONNA TAKE OVER SAN DOMENICO. IT'S LIKE HAVING A SON COME BACK INTO THE FAMILY. SOON AFTER, HE OPENED A MORE CASUAL EATERY... AN OSTERIA SERVING THE PASTAS AND MEATS AND EVERYDAY THINGS HE'D COME TO KNOW AND LOVE DURING HIS YEARS IN EMILIA-ROMAGNA. HE CALLED IT OSTERIA MORINI AFTER HIS MENTOR. Closed Captions provided by Scripps Networks, LLC. Captioned by Closed Captioning Services, Inc.