Mexico

[ CROWD CHANTING "TORO" ] Bourdain: OH, MAN. THIS LOOKS LIKE "APOCALYPSE NOW," BUT DOLLS INSTEAD OF SEVERED HEADS. THIS WOULD BE A BAD ACID TRIP. I WOULDN'T WANT TO TAKE LSD OUT HERE, THAT'S FOR SURE. I'M ANTHONY BOURDAIN. ♪ THAT'S RIGHT ♪ I WRITE. I TRAVEL. I EAT. AND I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE. ♪ OOH ♪ ♪ YOU GOT TO ♪ ♪ GET LOST ♪ -- Captions by VITAC -- www.vitac.com CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY THE TRAVEL CHANNEL, L.L.C. MICHAEL CORLEONE WAS EXACTLY WRONG. AT ITS BEST, BUSINESS IS PERSONAL, ESPECIALLY IN MEXICO. [ SPEAKING FRENCH ] MEET CARLOS. CARLOS IS THE HEAD CHEF AT LES HALLES IN NEW YORK CITY, WHICH IS TO SAY HE TOOK OVER MY JOB. WE'VE WORKED TOGETHER FOR A LOT OF YEARS, AND I GUESS YOU COULD SAY WE'VE BOTH COME TO REPRESENT VERSIONS OF THE AMERICAN SUCCESS STORY. I WENT FROM RELATIVE NOWHERE TO TELEVISION. CARLOS SNUCK ACROSS THE BORDER FROM MEXICO AND BECAME SUCCESSFUL IN NEW YORK CITY. [ SPEAKING SPANISH ] IT'S NOT DIFFICULT TO IMAGINE WHY SO MANY MEXICANS COOK IN OUR RESTAURANTS. WE, IT APPEARS, IN SPITE OF ANYTHING, DON'T WANT AND WON'T TAKE THOSE JOBS. AND MEXICO, THOUGH HOME TO A HANDFUL OF THE RICHEST MEN IN WORLD, ALSO HOUSES HUGE NUMBERS OF THE POOREST AND MOST SCREWED-OVER COMMUNITIES ANYWHERE, WHICH HELPS PUSH AN IMMIGRANT WORKFORCE INTO THE U.S. AND, IN TURN, STOKE THE HOTLY DEBATED ISSUE OF WHAT TO DO ABOUT IT ALL. WE HAVE TWO..., SIX SMOKED SALMON. THERE'S PLENTY OF ROOM FOR HONEST DISAGREEMENT ON THE QUESTION OF IMMIGRATION AND NO EASY ANSWERS. WHY DO THEY COME? FOR THE WORK, FOR THE MONEY, OF COURSE. BUT WHY DO THEY COOK SO WELL? HOW COME -- IN MY EXPERIENCE, ANYWAY -- THE BEST COOK, EVEN THE BEST FRENCH COOK IN A KITCHEN FULL OF FRENCH GUYS IS A MEXICAN GUY? THAT'S MAYBE A LITTLE HARDER TO ANSWER. I'M GONNA TRY ANYWAY. CARLOS IS FROM PUEBLA, ABOUT TWO HOURS FROM THE CAPITAL, BUT WE'RE STARTING HERE IN MEXICO CITY, A CITY I ACTUALLY MIGHT KNOW A LITTLE BIT BETTER THAN HIM. I'VE COME ALL THIS WAY TO GET INSIDE CARLOS' HEAD A BIT, SEE WHERE HE CAME FROM AND WHAT INFLUENCED HIM GROWING UP. WHAT'S UP, TONY? CARLOS. GOOD, GOOD, GOOD. GOOD TO SEE YOU. GLAD WE COULD MAKE THIS. IT MAKES ME VERY HAPPY TO COME BACK TO MEXICO AND PARTICULARLY HAPPY TO COME BACK WITH YOU. WE'RE GONNA HAVE A GREAT TIME, I GUESS. WELL, YOU KNOW, THIS IS NOT JUST THE MEXICO SHOW, RIGHT, YOU KNOW? CARLOS STORY. IT'S LIKE "60 MINUTES," YOU KNOW? YOU GET A WHOLE LITTLE STORY OF YOUR LIFE KIND OF A THING. YEAH, SO, WHAT DO YOU THINK? CANTINA? LET'S DO IT. YEAH? GREAT PLACES TO GET DRUNK. YEAH, IT'S NOT TOO EARLY. NAH. IT'S NEVER TOO EARLY TO GET DRUNK. ARE YOU KIDDING ME? MEXICO CITY, KNOWN IN THESE PARTS AS THE DISTRITO FEDERAL, OR D.F., HOME TO 19 MILLION PEOPLE AND THE SECOND-LARGEST CITY IN THE WORLD. IT ALONE TRIES TO KEEP MUCH OF THE COUNTRY EMPLOYED, RESPONSIBLE FOR 1/5 OF THE NATION'S ECONOMY AND NEARLY 1/5 OF ITS TOTAL POPULATION. AS AN ONGOING ENTERPRISE, IT SHOULDN'T WORK, BUT, SOMEHOW, IT ALMOST DOES. HOW COME I LOVE MEXICO SO MUCH? WHAT IS IT ABOUT MEXICO? YOU KNOW, CAN I TELL YOU -- OKAY, THIS IS WHAT I THINK ABOUT MEXICO IS -- WE WELCOME EVERYONE. WE LOVE GREAT FOOD. WE LOVE TO EAT. IT'S BEYOND TACOS AND TORTAS. WE HAVE A GREAT, GREAT, GREAT CULINARY -- HOW CAN I SAY? TRADITION. TRADITION, YES. IT'S HUGE. MEXICAN CUISINE, A SYMPHONY OF SPICY, SAVORY, AND SOUR, IS REPRODUCED IN PALLID VERSIONS ALL OVER THE WORLD. BUT GET THIS STRAIGHT -- THE FOOD WE CALL MEXICAN AT TGI McFUNSTERS AND SEÑOR SNOW CONE MARGARITAS WOULD BE UNRECOGNIZABLE DOWN HERE. THERE IS NO CHEDDAR OR JACK CHEESE MELTED OVER EVERYTHING LIKE A MOLTEN MUDSLIDE. THE CHIMICHANGA IS AN ALIEN CONSTRUCT. AND WHAT THE HELL IS A NACHO? MEXICAN FOOD IS ABOUT TAKING THE TIME TO DO IT RIGHT, ABOUT HOURS OF SLOW SIMMERING. IT'S ABOUT HANDS -- PEOPLE MAKING THINGS, EVERYTHING, BY HAND THAT DAY. IT'S ABOUT PEOPLE TALKING TO YOU WITH THEIR FOOD, TELLING YOU SOMETHING ABOUT THEMSELVES, THEIR COUNTRY, THEIR AREA, THEIR TOWN, THEIR FAMILY. AND IT'S ABOUT SOME OF THE BEST, FASTEST-SERVED STREET FOOD IN THE WORLD. AND, YES, THERE WILL BE TACOS. WE'RE ON OUR WAY TO MEET MY OLD FRIEND MARTIN, WHO WORKED WITH ME ON SUCH SHOWS AS THAT EARLIER LESS GOOD ONE ON THAT OTHER EVIL NETWORK. OH, THIS IS IT. THIS IS IT. CANTINA LA MASCOTA. EXCELLENT. THE UBIQUITOUS CANTINA, A GREAT SPOT TO ENCOUNTER THAT FOOD. AND IN A CANTINA, THE SNACKS ARE FREE. THE MORE YOU DRINK, THE MORE YOU GET, WHICH OFFERS A POWERFUL INCENTIVE FOR CONVIVIALITY. WELCOME TO MEXICO, SIR. MARTIN, MARTIN. LET ME INTRODUCE YOU TO CARLOS. NICE TO MEET YOU, SIR. WHEN I HEAR THE WORD "CANTINA," I THINK, NATURALLY, A FILTHY SALOON CLOGGED WITH BLIND DRUNKS, TOOTHLESS PROSTITUTES, AND STRAY DOGS. I DELIBERATELY AVOIDED SHAVING FOR TWO DAYS SO I COULD BLEND. BUT NO. THIS PLACE IS DECIDEDLY NICER THAN THE PECKINPAH FILMS HAD LED ME TO BELIEVE, THOUGH BREAKFAST STILL STARTS WITH TEQUILA. Bourdain: WHAT DOES A CANTINA MEAN, ANYWAY? I'M GUESSING IT MEANS WE DRINK, RIGHT? OF COURSE. BASICALLY, THE MORE YOU HAVE DRINKS, THE MORE FOOD THEY BRING, AND THE BETTER IT GETS. FREE FOOD AS LONG AS YOU KEEP ORDERING ***? YES. THERE MAY NOT BE THE BLOOD AND HAIR ON THE WALLS I EXPECTED, BUT GOOD FOOD AND GOOD TIMES ARE IN ABUNDANCE. FIRST UP, CARNITAS -- TENDER, JUICY, STEWED AND PULLED PORK, LOADED ONTO A WARM TORTILLA AND EATEN IMMEDIATELY, THE HOT JUICES RUNNING DOWN YOUR CHIN WHILE THE BRIGHTLY FLAVORED SALSA HITS THE BACK OF YOUR THROAT. Carlos: PORK, MAN, IS THE BEST THING. WE DON'T EAT THAT MUCH BEEF IN MEXICO. CHICKEN AND PORK. MáS TEQUILA Y MáS COMIDA. FAVA BEAN AND CACTUS SOUP. IT'S DELICIOUS, AND IT'S FREE. I REALLY LIKE THIS. SO GOOD. YOU SAID TWO MORE? SURE, WHY NOT. KEEP THEM COMING. NO PROBLEM. OH, THAT LOOKS GOOD. THIS IS A GORDITA DE CHICHARRóN. OH, YEAH. FRIED PORK FAT. THAT'S ONE OF MY FAVORITE THINGS. GONNA HAVE TO COME ON IN CLOSE THERE, BABY. CHEESE, CILANTRO, ONIONS. SALUD. AND, OF COURSE, THERE WILL BE -- THERE ALWAYS IS IN MEXICO -- MUSIC. THE QUARTINOS ROMáNTICOS -- GROUPS OF WANDERING MUSICIANS ALWAYS NEARBY AND READY TO POUNCE. AROUND THE TIME THE TEQUILA STARTS WORKING, WE BECOME THE KIND OF SENTIMENTAL DRUNK WHO WANTS TO HEAR BEAUTIFUL SONGS ABOUT HEARTBREAK AND LOSS. [ SINGING IN SPANISH ] FILLED WITH PORK, BEER, AND THE KIND OF BRAVADO THAT ONLY TEQUILA CAN GIVE, WE HEAD OVER TO THE GIMNASIO FOR MARTIN'S LESSON IN THE MANLY ARTS OF LUCHA LIBRE... ...A CHERISHED NATIONAL TRADITION, A SORT OF SHARED CATHARTIC EXPERIENCE FOR THE YOUNG, THE OLD, THE POOR, AND POWERLESS. NOTHING LIKE WATCHING A GUY IN A MASK AND LEOTARD BODY-SLAM EVIL INTO OBLIVION WHEN YOU'RE RELENTLESSLY SCREWED BY YOUR GOVERNMENT AND YOUR CIRCUMSTANCES. MEXICO CITY CAN BE A DANGEROUS PLACE. KIDNAPPING IS BIG BUSINESS AROUND HERE. AND SINCE MARTIN HAS VOLUNTEERED TO ACT AS SECURITY ESCORT FOR THE DURATION OF OUR STAY, WE THOUGHT IT WOULD BE ONLY APPROPRIATE THAT HE BRUSH UP ON SOME BAD, RIB-CRUSHING, NECK-SNAPPING SKILLS. AND WHO BETTER TO TEACH HIM THAN THIS MAN, LEGENDARY FOUR-TIME MIDDLEWEIGHT CHAMPION EL OCTAGóN. MARTIN, HE DOESN'T LOOK SO TOUGH. I THINK YOU CAN TAKE HIM. HIS TIME HAS COME. I MEAN, HE'S LIKE AN AGING ALI. DO IT. OKAY. HE BETTER WATCH HIS ***. GET RIGHT IN THERE, MAN. COME ON IN THE RING. ALL RIGHT, MARTIN! COME ON. [ GRUNTS ] GET IN THERE, MARTIN. COME ON. YOU GONNA TAKE THAT [BLEEP] NO, NO. OH! OOH! Carlos: THAT MUST HURT. OOH! MARTIN IS GETTING THROWN AROUND THE RING LIKE A MEAT-FILLED PIÑATA AT A PIT BULL PARTY. OOH! YOU KNOW, VICTORY IS JUST... AAH! [ GRUNTS ] WHO, ME? THERE COMES THAT TERRIBLE MOMENT IN THE LIFE OF MANY A DRINKER WHEN ONE'S DECISION-MAKING PROCESS BECOMES, SHALL WE SAY, LESS THAN OPTIMAL. "I CAN TAKE THAT GUY" BEING A CLASSIC EXAMPLE. [ SPEAKS INDISTINCTLY ] MARTIN, HERE'S HOW IT'S DONE. HEY, LOOK, BRO! OVER THERE! COME IN LIKE THIS. OH! [ GRUNTS ] AW, MAN. I'LL BE CRAPPING BONE CHIPS FOR A MONTH. I HATE WHEN THAT HAPPENS. [ SIGHS ] NEXT, I WILL PACK MY SHATTERED RIBS WITH A SOOTHING MEAT STUFFING. THAT'S A SOPHISTICATED [BLEEP] TACO. IT'S GOOD. [ CROWD CHANTING "TORO" ] IN MEXICO CITY, AS IN ANY ENLIGHTENED CULTURE, STREET FOOD IS KING. FROM A CART ON A CORNER, ROUGH ADDITIONS TO EXISTING RESTAURANTS AND BUSINESSES, OR JUST A GRILL UNDER A TARP, HEAD FOR THE STREETS IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR THE GOOD STUFF. I MEET UP WITH DAVID LIDA, AUTHOR OF TWO EXCELLENT BOOKS SET IN MEXICO CITY AND A LONGTIME RESIDENT OF 18 YEARS. NEEDLESS TO SAY, HE'S A STREET-FOOD ENTHUSIAST WITH SOME FAVORITES OF HIS OWN. Bourdain: SO, WHAT ABOUT THE NOTION POPULARLY HELD BY MOST AMERICANS? HOW DO YOU EAT THAT STUFF? DON'T YOU GET SICK? IT'S DEADLY. I MEAN, IS STREET FOOD SAFE? YOU CAN'T DRINK THE WATER IN MEXICO CITY. YOU HAVE TO DRINK BOTTLED WATER OR YOU HAVE TO BOIL THE TAP WATER. BUT THE FOOD ON THE STREET, I MEAN, EVERYBODY EATS IT. RIGHT. SO, WHERE WE GOING NOW? WHAT ARE WE EATING? WELL, THERE'S A WOMAN, DOÑA ANASTASIA, SHE MAKES BLUE-CORN QUESADILLAS, AND SHE STUFFS THEM WITH LOTS OF GREAT STUFF. YOU'LL SEE, TONY. HOLA. ¿CóMO ESTAMOS? THAT DOES LOOK GOOD. DOÑA ANASTASIA'S HANDS GROW BLUER AS THE DAY WEARS ON, FORMING AND COOKING HER AMAZING BLUE-CORN TORTILLAS, FILLING THEM, AND COOKING THEM ON HER COMAL AS SHE HAS EVERY DAY FOR THE LAST EIGHT YEARS. YEAH. THESE ARE THE BEST TORTILLAS IN MEXICO CITY, I THINK. Bourdain: THEY SMELL EXTRAORDINARY, RIGHT. THIS IS SOME SERIOUS KIND OF FIXINGS BAR. THERE'S SAUSAGE, BRAINS, AND BEEF, BUT DAVID AND I GO FOR THE SAUTéED SPINACH AND ZUCCHINI FLOWER. MAN. GRACIAS, DOÑA. THE TASTE OF THIS THING -- SUBLIME. DELICIOUS. REALLY GOOD. EL DICE QUE -- DELICIOSO. GRACIAS. AY. GRACIAS. EVERY TORTILLA OF BLUE-CORN MASA MADE FRESH RIGHT HERE. OUT OF THIS WORLD. BEST TORTILLA EVER. THERE'S NOT EVEN ANY PORK IN IT. BUT YOU DON'T GO LONG IN MEXICO CITY ON ONLY VERDURAS. ONE MUST HAVE MEAT, AND FOR TACO FILLINGS, MEXICO CITY OFFERS A RAINBOW OF TASTY, UNIMAGINABLE VARIETY. THE FAST-FOOD WORLD TOUR CONTINUES. HEY. WELCOME AGAIN. HI, DAVID. NEAR THE ZóCALO, THE MAIN SQUARE IN MEXICO CITY, WET TACOS. ALL THOSE LOVELY CHOICE BITS BUBBLING AWAY IN A BIG POT -- TONGUE, BRAINS, HOOVES, EYES, STOMACH. YOU NAME THE ANATOMICAL PART, AND THEY DO IT AND DO IT WELL, MY FRIENDS. THAT ZIMMERN DUDE WOULD PROBABLY DO A JACKKNIFE INTO THAT THING. I'M GOING FOR THE TONGUE. I'M TELLING YOU RIGHT NOW. OKAY. DOS DE LENGUA, POR FAVOR. AND FOR YOU, DAVID? Y DOS DE TRIPA, POR FAVOR. WE ORDER UP A COUPLE OF LENGUAS AND SOME TRIPE, AND MARTIN, WHO HAS A TRULY AWE-INSPIRING APPETITE FOR A SMALL GUY, ASKS FOR THE MORE ADVENTUROUS OPTIONS OF BRAIN AND EYEBALL. ALL WITH A DELICIOUS SPRINKLING OF ONION, CILANTRO, AND LETTUCE AND DOUSING OF FRESH SALSA. JUST GREAT. YOU'RE FAST, MAN. HOW'S YOUR EYE? GREAT. REALLY GREAT. WOW. WHO'D HAVE THOUGHT? TRIPE WAS THE WAY TO GO. THAT'S GOOD. ME REGALAS DE TRIPA, POR FAVOR. DOS. YOU HAVING TWO MORE TRIPES? YOU'RE A PARTY ANIMAL, MAN. YOU ARE A TELEVISION [BLEEP] PROFESSIONAL. AMAZING. THESE THINGS, BY THE WAY, BECAME THE CONSTANT CREW MEAL FOR THE ENTIRE SHOOT, MEANING THIS WAS THE PREFERRED DINING OPTION FOR ALL OF US, EVEN WHEN THE CAMERAS WEREN'T ROLLING. THAT SHOULD TELL YOU SOMETHING. LOOK AT MARTIN. HE'S HAD LIKE 12 OF THESE THINGS. OH, THAT'S GOOD. ENOUGH, YOU SAY? BUT NO. THERE'S MORE. ONE MUST -- WHEN IN MEXICO CITY -- ONE MUST NOT MISS TACOS AL PASTOR, THE MOST FAMOUS AND TYPICAL DISH OF MEXICO CITY. ALL RIGHT. LAST STOP. TACOS AL PASTOR, RIGHT? TACOS AL PASTOR. SO TYPICAL. THIS IS THE MEXICO CITY MUNICIPAL DISH -- THE TACO AL PASTOR. AT EL HUEQUITO, THEY CHURN OUT THOUSANDS OF THESE BAD BOYS EVERY DAY. INSPIRED BY THE SHAWARMA AND BELOVED FOR THE SPECIFIC BLEND OF SPICES AND GARLIC AND THE STARTLING ORANGE HUE, THIS CHERISHED HOME-TEAM FAVORITE IS THE FREQUENT SUBJECT OF DISAGREEMENT OVER WHO EXACTLY HAS THE BEST. THERE'S A LOT OF CONTROVERSY IN MEXICO CITY WHICH TACO PLACE MAKES THE BEST TACOS AL PASTOR. RIGHT. BUT THIS IS A CONTENDER? I THINK THESE ARE THE BEST. THEY'VE BEEN AROUND SINCE 1959. I TELL YOU, HE WORKS FAST. NINE TACOS ASSEMBLED IN JUST OVER NINE SECONDS. THESE GUYS CLEARLY MOVE A LOT OF PROP. GRACIAS. I'LL TELL YOU, THAT'S SHOCKINGLY GOOD. REAL FRESH TASTING, TOO. NOT MUSHY, YOU KNOW? NOT HEAVY. I LIKE MUSHY. I LIKE ALL THE TACOS I'VE HAD. THIS IS REALLY HEAD AND SHOULDERS ABOVE. WELL, I THINK WE'VE DONE GOOD WORK HERE TODAY. A Mí, ME REGALAS UNO MáS, POR FAVOR. ONE MORE. DUDE, YOU'RE AMAZING. YOU'RE AN EATING MACHINE. YEAH. I LIKE TACOS. EL CAMPEóN. I WANT MORE. I JUST CAN'T. MY STOMACH IS ABOUT TO EXPLODE. BUT MARTIN -- UNSTOPPABLE. MOVING ON FROM THE GOLD STANDARD OF MEXICO CITY'S TACOS, I FIND MYSELF, ONCE AGAIN, HEADING UP A RIVER. MARLON, PERHAPS, ONCE AGAIN LOOKING FOR HIS KURTZ. OR NOT. HEY, LOOK AT THE DOLLY. Martin: 50 YEARS AGO, A GIRL WAS DROWNED, AND HE TRIED TO USE THE DOLLS TO SCARE THE SPIRIT THAT WAS SCARING HIM. [ CROWD CHANTING "TORO" ] THE AZTECS MOVED IN TO WHAT IS NOW MEXICO CITY AROUND 700 YEARS AGO. AN UNWELCOME BUNCH, RELEGATED TO A SPRAWLING, FETID WASTELAND -- A SWAMP, REALLY -- SOUTH OF TOWN, THEY FOUND, DESPITE THE UNPROMISING TERRAIN, THE THREE SACRED SIGNS -- EAGLE, SNAKE, CACTUS, WHICH, PROPHECY HAD TOLD THEM, WOULD DENOTE THE CAPITAL OF AN EMPIRE. THEY FILLED IN THE SWAMP WITH FLOATING CITIES AND TRANSPORTATION CANALS, AND THEIR COMMUNITY METASTASIZED INTO WHAT IS NOW MEXICO CITY. Bourdain: SO, WHERE ARE WE, MARTIN? THIS IS XOCHIMILCO. BEFORE BEING MEXICO CITY WAS TENOCHTITLáN, FOUNDED BY THE AZTECS. YEAH. YES. INSTEAD OF STREETS, THEY MOVED FROM ONE PLACE TO ANOTHER THROUGH THESE WATER CHANNELS. THESE DAYS, THE REMAINING CANALS ARE A PAINFULLY SLOW MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION FOR FARMERS AND LOCAL LABORERS. BUT AS WE SHALL SEE, LIVING OUT HERE CAN BE AN ISOLATING EXPERIENCE, LEADING ONE MAN TO INDULGE SOME STRANGE, AND SOME MIGHT SAY TERRIFYING, TENDENCIES. WE'VE HIRED A BOAT TO LEARN ABOUT THIS MAN AND THE EERIE KINGDOM HE MADE FOR HIMSELF. SOME MIGHT CALL IT MADNESS. OKAY, THE TREE WE SEE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CHANNEL, THAT'S WHERE WE'RE GOING. UP AHEAD, SOMETHING SINISTER, SOMETHING UNSOUND. LA ISLA DE LAS MUÑECAS. EVEN THE NAME CAUSES THE BOWELS OF BELIEVERS TO TURN TO JELLY. OH, MAN. THIS LOOKS LIKE "APOCALYPSE NOW," BUT DOLLS INSTEAD OF SEVERED HEADS. Martin: BUENOS DíAS. BUENOS DíAS. A MAN AND HIS ISLAND AND HIS SILENT FRIENDS. Sí, SEÑOR. MUCHAS GRACIAS. ¿CóMO ESTáS? BUENOS DíAS. SEÑOR TONY. CARLOS. HE'S GONNA TELL US THE STORY. DIEGO LIVES HERE NOW, TENDING TO HIS UNCLE'S NEAR-50-YEAR DECORATING SCHEME. FOR SEVEN YEARS, HE'S LIVED AMONG HIS UNCLE'S FRIENDS AND PROTECTORS, TRYING TO SCRATCH OUT A LIVING SHOWING IT ALL TO, WELL, PEOPLE LIKE US. SO, WHAT IS THIS PLACE? HOW DID THIS COME TO BE? ¿CóMO EMPEZó ESTE LUGAR? EL PLATICABA QUE HACE 50 AÑOS DONDE ESTá LA CRUZ... HE'S TELLING THAT 50 YEARS AGO, WHERE THE CROSS IS BACK THERE, A GIRL WAS DROWNED. THERE WAS A SUICIDE? JUST A DROWNING. [ SPEAKING SPANISH ] AND SINCE SHE DIED THERE, SHE CAME BACK EVERY NOW AND THEN AND SCARED PEOPLE, AND HIS UNCLE TRIED TO USE THE DOLLS TO SCARE THE SPIRIT THAT WAS SCARING HIM. AT FIRST, PLUCKING HIS DOLLS FROM THE WATER AT RANDOM, SUPERSTITIOUSLY BELIEVING THAT THEY'D PROTECT HIM FROM THE SPIRITS OF A DEAD GIRL, DIEGO'S UNCLE BEGAN FILLING THE TREES AND EVERY AVAILABLE SPACE WITH THE CREEPY, GHOSTLY CARCASSES OF BABY ROTS-A-LOT AND UNIDENTIFIED TORSO BARBIE. SOON NEARBY RESIDENTS AND VISITORS WOULD BRING THEIRS AND CONTRIBUTE TO HIS UNHOLY CAUSE. [ SPEAKING SPANISH ] AND THE STRANGE THING ABOUT IT IS THAT HIS UNCLE DIED IN THE SAME AREA. NOT DROWNED, BUT A HEART ATTACK. THE SAME SPOT, 50 YEARS AFTER. 50 -- 5-0. Bourdain: 50. SO, HE STARTED DOING THIS WHEN? IN WHAT YEAR? 1950. OKAY. WOW. THAT'S A LOT OF TIME. A LOT OF DOLLS. INANIMATE BITS OF PLASTIC, RUBBER, AND DINELLE. I NEED NOT FEAR THEM. BUT I DON'T WANT TO SPEND THE NIGHT ANYWHERE NEAR THEM EITHER. WAS HIS UNCLE HAPPY? SU TíO ERA FELIZ. ESTABA -- ¿PERO FELIZ? DID HE HAVE FRIENDS? ¿TENíA AMIGOS O TODO ESO? Sí. MUCHA GENTE QUE LO... HE WAS SAYING THAT WHEN HE USED TO GET THEM FROM THE WATER, HE WAS DOING SOMETHING GOOD, TOO. RIGHT. YEAH. RESCUING THEM. THE FAVORITE ONE, THERE WAS A TIME THAT HE USED TO PUT HER ON THE BED, AND HE USED TO SLEEP ON THE FLOOR, AND HE WAS SO HAPPY. SO, SHE GOT THE BED, AND HE GOT THE FLOOR. WOW. THE WAY I SEE IT IS, HE TOLD THAT THE DOLLS HAVE A SOUL. AND HE WAS RESCUING THEM. YEAH. DIEGO'S UNCLE SPENT 25 YEARS ON THIS ISLAND WITHOUT EVER LEAVING. HIS NEPHEW DUTIFULLY BROUGHT HIM BACK SUPPLIES, BUT LIKE CHEF IN "APOCALYPSE NOW," I CAN'T WAIT TO GET BACK ON THE BOAT. NEVER GET OFF THE BOAT. NEVER GET OFF THE BOAT. BYE, DOLLY. YEAH, IT'S TIME. IT'S BEER O'CLOCK. IT'S BEER O'CLOCK. RIGHT. PLEASANT DREAMS. BACK ON LAND, IT'S STRAIGHT TO A LOCAL JOINT THAT'S A TRADITIONAL HUB OF SOCIAL ACTIVITY AND PHILOSOPHICAL DISCOURSE. PULQUE -- HALF REFRESHING BEVERAGE, HALF [BLEEP] FILM, THE FERMENTED SAP OF THE MAGUEY CACTUS, AND ABOUT AS NUTRITIOUS AND DELICIOUS AS RYAN SEACREST LOVE JUICE. NOT THAT I'D KNOW. WELCOME TO XOCHIMILCO. HERE WE ARE. CHEERS. PULQUE. THE PULQUERIA, FORMALLY THE EXCLUSIVE DOMAIN OF GENTLEMEN OF A CERTAIN TYPE -- GENERALLY POOR, UNEMPLOYED, OR CLOSE TO IT, LOOKING FOR A CHEAP BUZZ. THE SOCIAL KIND OF A PLACE. GRAB A BUCKET OF PLAIN OR FLAVORED AND SLOWLY, SLOWLY DRINK ONESELF INTO A HAPPIER PLACE. WELL, THEY STILL HAVE THIS TEXTURE LIKE... TEXTURE'S PROBLEMATIC, BUT, MAN, THIS IS -- IT'S INFINITELY SUPERIOR TO THE PLAIN. MY PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE WITH PULQUE ENDED UP WITH PROJECTILE VOMITING SO FIERCE, IT ROCKED MY TOILET BACK ON ITS BOLTS. THIS IS NOT A LIGHT AND FROTHY GIRL DRINK. THIS IS MAN JUICE, IN MORE WAYS THAN ONE. SO, WAIT A MINUTE, WHAT FLAVORS DO THEY HAVE TODAY? PISTACHIO? NO. THEY HAVE PISTACHIO NUEZ. NUEZ IS WALNUT. OSTIóN IS OYSTER. WAIT A MINUTE. OYSTER FLAVORED? OYSTER FLAVORED. MAN, YOU CAN'T BE FEELING GOOD AFTER LIKE SIX GLASSES OF OYSTER-FLAVORED PULQUE. NOW, HOW MANY OF THESE DO I HAVE TO DRINK TO GET A BUZZ? LIKE EIGHT OF THEM. EIGHT. THAT'S A LOT. MEXICAN ***, RIGHT? MEXICAN ***. THEY CALL IT THE MEXICAN ***. IT'S NOT BAD, HUH? EH, IF I'M LUCKY, I'LL GET A LOWLY [BLEEP] OKAY. SWEET LOT OF GOOD IT'LL DO ME. I START WITH THE GUAVA AND THEN OATMEAL, AND IT'S ACTUALLY KIND OF DELICIOUS THIS TIME AROUND, LIKE BABY FOOD THAT GETS YOU SLOWLY DRUNK. THERE IS FEW DRINKS THAT THEY DRINK AGUADIENTE, WHICH IS A STRONGER -- IT'S 100% ALCOHOL. I KNOW WHAT THAT IS. MAYBE TIENEN AGUADIENTE, ¿QUE NO? NO, THAT'S ALL RIGHT. CHEERS. I GOT TO TELL YOU, I'M LIKING THIS. IT'S PRETTY GOOD. BUT YOU KNOW, HERE'S WHAT'S KIND OF FREAKING ME OUT -- YOU COME IN HERE, YOU GRAB A BUCKET, YOU START DRINKING THIS STUFF. FOUR, FIVE HOURS LATER, YOU AIN'T [BLEEP] ANYBODY AFTER THAT, OKAY? NAH. ¿QUIERES AGUADIENTE DE CAÑA? NO MáS, PERO PROBARLO UN POQUITITO. HE'S GONNA BRING AGUADIENTE. AS MEXICO DOES. THEY ALWAYS FEED YOU, AND THEY ALWAYS GIVE YOU DRINK. MEXICO BEING A COUNTRY THAT ALWAYS WEARS ITS HEART ON ITS SLEEVE, THESE OLD DUDES AT THE NEXT TABLE HAPPEN TO HAVE SOME AGUADIENTE, A LIQUOR, HOME-BREWED IN THIS CASE, MADE FROM SUGARCANE. JUST SMELL IT. MEXICAN MOONSHINE, FIREWATER, ROCKET FUEL, PAINT THINNER -- WHATEVER YOU WANT TO CALL IT, IT CAN ONLY LEAD TO SOMETHING BAD. IT'S GOOD. AND WHILE MOSTLY FLAVORLESS, IT HAS THE KICK OF DRAIN CLEANER REACHING STRAIGHT DOWN YOUR THROAT AND GRABBING A FISTFUL OF GUT. BRINGS TEARS TO YOUR EYES. TóMALE... I'M NOT FINISHING THIS, DUDE. ES EL LIMITADO. [ LAUGHS ] WHOO! GOOD STUFF. GRACIAS, SEÑOR. SALUD. BRAINS POACHING IN AGUADIENTE AND BELLIES DISTENDED WITH PULQUE, A GOOD NIGHT'S SLEEP IS ASSURED. OR IS IT? YOU WERE, LIKE, SERIOUS ABOUT GETTING HERE EARLY, TOO. IT'S JUST AFTER 6:00 IN THE MORNING. [ CROWD CHANTING "TORO" ] IT'S 5:30 IN THE MORNING, AND MEXICO CITY IS STILL DARK OUTSIDE. BUT MARTIN SAYS WE GOT TO GET UP EARLY IF WE DON'T WANT TO BE STANDING IN LINE FOR THIS PLACE. FONDA MARGARITA IS A FAMILY-STYLE JOINT, FAMOUS FOR ITS BREAKFAST. MARTIN HAS BEEN COMING HERE SINCE HE WAS A LITTLE BOY BROUGHT HERE BY HIS FATHER, WHO WAS HIMSELF BROUGHT HERE BY MARTIN'S GRANDMOTHER, WHICH IS TO SAY THE PLACE HAS BEEN SERVING REALLY GOOD FOOD FOR A REALLY LONG TIME. Bourdain: THAT LOOKS GOOD, WHATEVER IT IS. MAN. COME ON. LOOK AT THAT. THEY'RE GETTING BETTER AND BETTER, HUH? AND SOME BEANS. THIS IS, LIKE, A REALLY AMAZING OPERATION. GIANT EARTHENWARE CAULDRONS OF SLOWLY BUBBLING MEAT AND BEANS SIMMERING OVER BEDS OF CHARCOAL. SO, HOW COME THIS PLACE IS SO POPULAR? WHAT'S SPECIAL ABOUT THIS PLACE? I CANNOT EXPLAIN THAT. PROBABLY THAT IT'S NORMAL, ORDINARY MEXICAN FOOD THAT YOUR MOTHER OR YOU CAN EAT ALL THESE. SO, IT'S JUST LIKE MOM MAKES. I THINK SO. YOU LOOK HAPPY. I HAVEN'T SEEN YOU THIS HAPPY SINCE I GOT HERE, MAN. [ LAUGHS ] YEAH, HE LOOKS LIKE HE'S EXCITED. LIKE, "HA HA!" [ LAUGHS ] I'M HUNGRY. BEST BREAKFAST EVER? MAYBE. CERTAINLY A MEAL I'LL NEVER FORGET. ALL THE INDICATORS OF GREATNESS -- LONG, COMMUNAL PICNIC TABLES, MINIMALIST DECOR, MENUS ON THE WALL. THE HEADY AROMA OF WHAT IS UNMISTAKABLY HOME COOKING. WE'RE STILL ALMOST THE ONLY PEOPLE IN THE PLACE, BARELY AWAKE, BUT ANY THOUGHTS OF A LIGHT BREAKFAST FOR ME AND CARLOS ARE OUT THE WINDOW AS MARTIN PROCEEDS TO ORDER, LIKE, THE ENTIRE MENU. WHOA. I TELL YOU, THAT LOOKS GOOD. HUEVOS Y FRIJOLES. EGGS AND BEANS SERVED STRAIGHT UP. OR ON FRIED TORTILLAS FOR THE HUEVOS RANCHEROS. OR IN A WEDGE-SHAPED HEAP CALLED FRIJOLES CON HUEVOS. IT'S A SIMPLE THING, YOU MIGHT THINK, BUT THE BEANS -- THE BEANS! BACK HOME, A STEW MIGHT BE THE LAST THING YOU THINK OF AT THIS HOUR OF THE MORNING, BUT HERE, GIVEN THE ALL-TOO-RARE OPPORTUNITY TO RANGE FREELY THROUGH ALL THESE SOULFUL, WONDERFULLY OLD-SCHOOL GRANDMA DISHES... AWESOME, HUH? THEY REALLY KNOW HOW TO COOK HERE. IT'S AMAZING. PORK LOIN AND SALSA VERDE, BEEF IN A DARK CHILI SAUCE, PIGS' FEET, STEWED LAMB, AND FRIED CHICHARRóN PORK SKINS IN THE SAME VIBRANT, GREEN TOMATILLA SAUCE. TORTITAS -- LITTLE PORK MEATBALLS IN SPICY JALAPEÑO TOMATO. NO WAY YOU DON'T WANT EVERYTHING. I TOTALLY GET WHY YOU LOVE THIS PLACE. YOU LIKE THE CHICHARRóN? IT'S GREAT. THE SAUCE IS AMAZING, TOO. THIS IS UNBELIEVABLE. SO TENDER. I'M GONNA LIKE THIS, I'M SURE. YEAH. YOU KNOW BEFORE YOU EVEN TASTE IT IT'S GONNA BE GOOD. YEAH. WOW. SOLAMENTE COMEN LOS HUEVOS 'CAUSE YOU HAVE SEEN, TOO, THESE EGGS. [ LAUGHS ] ANYTHING ELSE. YOU KNOW, LOOKING AT IT, YOU THINK, "THAT'S ALL GONNA TASTE THE SAME." IT DOESN'T. EACH DISH IS REALLY... ...SO DIFFERENT. YOU'RE RIGHT. ANY MOM WOULD BE PROUD TO COOK THIS. YES, EXACTLY. MUY RICO SEÑORA. TODO MUY, MUY, MUY RICO. QUE BUENO. ¿Y A QUé HORA SE EMPIEZA EN LA COCINA? THEY START AT 1:00. SO, THEY FINISH EVERYTHING, AND THEY START ALL OVER THE NEXT MORNING. MAYBE THE MISSING INGREDIENT IN THE MEXICAN FOOD WE SEE WAY TOO MUCH OF IN THE U.S. IS THIS -- GRANDMA'S HANDS MAKING SAUCE, MAKING EVERYTHING FROM SCRATCH. IT WOULD BE A MISTAKE TO THINK THIS IS SIMPLE FOOD. THE DEPTH OF FLAVOR AND THE SOPHISTICATED INTERPLAY BETWEEN PIQUANT AND SWEET, SAVORY AND SOUR, RICHNESS AND ACIDITY DOESN'T COME EASY. IT'S THE END PRODUCT OF YEARS OF EXPERIENCE, OF WAKING UP AT UNGODLY HOURS, STARTING UP THE FIRES, THE LONG, SIMMERING SAUCES AND BEANS, THE GENTLE COAXING OF TOUGH SHANKS AND SHOULDERS INTO SOMETHING TENDER AND DELICIOUS. HE'S SO HAPPY. I KNOW. YOU'D THINK HE HADN'T BEEN HERE IN 10 YEARS, HE'S SO EXCITED. YES. I GUESS WE'VE ESTABLISHED SOMETHING FOR SURE TODAY -- THERE'S EGGS AND BEANS, AND THEN THERE'S EGGS AND BEANS. THEY REALLY CARE. I MEAN, THEY'RE REALLY COOKING CAREFULLY WITH REAL, REAL ATTENTION PAID. THIS IS INCREDIBLE. THAT IS -- BOMB. THIS IS GOOD. THIS IS REALLY, REALLY GOOD. I HAVE MORE TO DO. THAT'S UNBELIEVABLE. AND I GOT TO TRY SOME OF THAT. WE'RE MAKING GOOD HEADWAY HERE, GUYS. DESPITE EARLY CONCERNS ABOUT OUR DEGREE OF HUNGER, WE WOULD REMAIN UNTIL THE LAST SMUDGE OF BEANS WERE MOPPED OFF OUR PLATES, THE LAST BONES SUCKED CLEAN. UP NEXT, THE STORIED ART OF BULLFIGHTING. AND I'M ROOTING FOR THE BULL. [ CROWD CHANTS "TORO" ] OUT OF THE SPRAWL IN THE MADNESS OF MEXICO CITY, SOUTHWEST ABOUT AN HOUR, TO CARLOS' HOME, THE SOMEWHAT MORE LAID-BACK CITY OF PUEBLA. THERE I'M HOPING TO DISCOVER WHAT GAVE CARLOS THE DRIVE AND PERSISTENCE TO MAKE IT ALL THE WAY TO NEW YORK, WHAT MOTIVATED HIS RISE TO THE TOP OF A SUCCESSFUL FRENCH RESTAURANT GROUP. I SHOULD REMIND YOU THAT MEXICO IS NOT HOMOGENOUS. WHEN YOU SAY "MEXICAN FOOD" TO A MEXICAN, YOU HAVEN'T REALLY SAID ANYTHING AT ALL. THERE ARE 32 DISTINCT STATES. THE FOOD CHANGES FROM REGION TO REGION. WHEN YOU THINK "PUEBLA," YOU SHOULD BE THINKING ABOUT MOLE POBLANO. I KNOW I AM. PARTICULARLY SINCE THERE'S A WHOLE PLATOON OF WOMEN -- CARLOS' MOM, AUNTS, AND COUSINS -- ALREADY WORKING ON SOME. A COUPLE OF TOWNS OVER FROM PUEBLA IS THE TOWN OF HUAMANTLA. WHOO! AND AS LUCK WOULD HAVE IT, IT'S NO ORDINARY DAY. Carlos: PULQUE! PULQUE! ONCE A YEAR FOR TWO STRAIGHT WEEKS, THE TOWN IS INVADED BY FANS AND ENTHUSIASTS OF THAT OLD AND EVER-MORE CONTROVERSIAL TRADITION -- BULLFIGHTING. CARLOS, OF COURSE, WOULD GO AS A KID. IT IS -- WHETHER YOU LIKE IT OR NOT, WHETHER YOU FIND IT EXCITING OR UGLY -- AN EXPRESSION OF SOMETHING IN THE CHARACTER OF A CULTURE. I'VE MANAGED TO AVOID THEM MY WHOLE LIFE. TODAY, HOWEVER, IS THE DAY. SO, WHAT THEY DO, THEY RELEASE THE BULLS, AND EVERYBODY RUNS LIKE CRAZY. SO, THIS IS LIKE A BULLFIGHTING TOWN. EXACTLY. YOU SEE, LIKE, EVERYBODY'S DRUNK. THEY ALREADY HAD TOO MUCH TO DRINK. WHOO! [ INDISTINCT SHOUTING ] THERE'S AN ENTIRE FESTIVAL GOING ON, AND WHILE THE BULLFIGHT IS PURPORTEDLY THE MAIN ATTRACTION, IT'S ALSO ABOUT THE PARTY, ABOUT DRINKING, AND, OF COURSE, EATING. THERE ARE FOOD VENDORS EVERYWHERE. I'M SMELLING THE FOOD. IT'S DRIVING ME OUT OF MY MIND. WE NEED TO GET SOME DRINKS, AND WE NEED TO GET SOMETHING TO EAT. OKAY. I'M WITH YOU. TONY, SOME TACOS OVER HERE IF YOU WANT. RIGHT HERE? OH, YEAH. COME ON. LOOKING GOOD. THEY LOOK VERY, VERY GOOD. HOLA. ¿CóMO ESTáN? SO, WHAT THEY HAVE -- THEY HAVE BEEF TACOS. BULL. BULL TACOS. HOW MANY YOU WANT? GIVE ME TWO. DOS Y DOS. FRESH SALSA, NATURALLY, FRESH-SQUEEZED LIME, AND EVEN FRESHER MEAT. BULL MEAT, THOUGHTFULLY PROVIDED BY THE LOSERS OF YESTERDAY'S CONTEST. THIS IS THE BEST WAY TO EAT IN MEXICO. NO ARGUMENT FROM ME, MAN. [ SPEAKS INDISTINCTLY ] SO, HOW OLD WERE YOU WHEN YOU LEFT MEXICO? I WAS 17. MAN, YOU WERE A BABY. YOU WERE YOUNG. HOW LONG WAS IT BEFORE YOU CAME BACK THE FIRST TIME? IT TOOK ME 10 YEARS. 10 YEARS. YOU MISSED THIS, I'M GUESSING. AND YOUR FAMILY, OF COURSE. I MEAN, FAMILY FIRST, AND THEN FOOD. THERE'S NO WAY THAT YOU CAN FIND THE SAME FOOD IN NEW YORK. THERE'S NO WAY. EXCELLENT. GRACIAS. MUCHAS GRACIAS. MUY RICOS. OH, THAT WAS GOOD. THAT WAS GOOD. THAT WAS GOOD, YEAH. YOU'RE GONNA LIKE IT. OH, I'M EXCITED. IT'S A FAMILY THING, AND CARLOS' MOM, DAD, SISTER, AND SOME COUSINS ARE HERE WITH A FEW NIECES AND NEPHEWS IN TOW. NOT EVERYBODY'S ENTHUSIASTIC ABOUT BULLFIGHTING, BY THE WAY. CARLOS' MOM, FOR ONE. ME, FOR ANOTHER. BUT MORE OFTEN THAN NOT, IT'S A NEARLY REVERED SPORT. FESTIVE BAND, A SPIRIT OF GOOD-HEARTED EXCITEMENT VERY MUCH AT ODDS WITH THE THEATER OF CRUELTY TO FOLLOW. MAYBE IF YOU START AS A KID, YOU GET USED TO IT. EVERYBODY HERE LOOKS QUIET, WELL-BEHAVED, HARDWORKING PEOPLE. NOBODY'S -- I DON'T SENSE ANY *** FOR BLOOD. THEY DON'T LOOK KILL-CRAZY. THAT CHANGES ONCE IT STARTS? WHEN IT STARTS. [ CHEERS AND APPLAUSE ] [ LAUGHS ] iOLé! HE'S REALLY GOOD. HE'S ON HIS KNEES, AND HE'S WAITING FOR THE BULL. LOOK AT HIM. iOLé! [ CROWD CHANTING "TORO" ] LISTENING TO PEOPLE TALK AROUND ME, IT'S CLEAR THEY ADMIRE THE BULL. THE WORD "COURAGE" IS EVERYWHERE. IF THE BULL PUTS UP A SPIRITED FIGHT, MAKES THE TORERO LOOK BAD OR COWARDLY BY COMPARISON, IF THE CROWD GIVES HIM THE THUMBS UP, HE'S GOT A CHANCE AT ACTUALLY WINNING THE THING, AT WHICH POINT, HE'LL SPEND HIS LIFE HAPPILY INSEMINATING OTHER COWS. BUT THAT RARELY HAPPENS WHEN YOUR FINAL OPPONENT IS THIS GUY -- THE IDEALIZED ALPHA MALE. IN SPITE OF THE FRILLY JACKET AND SLIPPERS, THE EMBODIMENT OF MALE BEAUTY, AMBITION, POWER, AND COURAGE -- A MEXICAN VERSION OF THE TEEN IDOL. ZAC EFRON WITH A SWORD, FIGHTING REAL DANGER, ACTUALLY PUTTING HIS ACTUAL BALLS ON THE LINE, RISKING DISEMBOWELMENT OR WORSE. [ CROWD CHEERS ] GOOD SHOW. FOR THE NOTORIOUSLY POWERLESS PEOPLE OF MEXICO, ONLY RECENTLY EMERGING FROM DECADES AND DECADES OF A ONE-PARTY STATE, THIS IS AS CLOSE TO REAL POWER AS THEY'RE LIKELY TO SEE ON A REGULAR BASIS -- THE CONTEST BETWEEN MAN AND, PRESUMABLY, MORE POWERFUL BEAST, WHERE THE MAN USUALLY WINS. [ LAUGHS ] GOT HIM! IT WAS ACTUALLY A CLOSE CALL TODAY DURING ONE OF THE FIGHTS 'CAUSE ONE OF THESE GUYS RECEIVED A VICIOUS GROIN SHOT FROM THE BULL. THAT'S GONNA HURT IN THE MORNING. THAT'S A GOOD BULL. WAS. I THINK I'VE BEEN TO MY BULLFIGHT, HONESTLY. I MEAN, I'M GLAD I WENT. I TOTALLY RESPECT THE TRADITION. I GET WHY PEOPLE LIKE IT. LIKE I SAID, I'M REALLY GLAD I WENT. I'M KIND OF WITH YOUR MOM ON THIS, I GOT TO SAY. IT'S HARSH, MAN. AS LONG AS I'VE KNOWN HIM, CARLOS HAS HAD AN EXTRAORDINARY APTITUDE FOR FRENCH COOKING. WHERE DID IT COME FROM? NEXT, MAYBE THE ANSWER. FOR ME, MY MOM IS THE BEST COOK IN THE WORLD, PERIOD. [ CROWD CHANTING "TORO" ] [ BELL TOLLING ] PUEBLA IS THE CAPITAL CITY OF THE MEXICAN STATE OF THE SAME NAME. IT'S NESTLED IN A VALLEY BETWEEN MOUNTAINS AND VOLCANIC PEAKS. THE CITY ITSELF HAS OVER A MILLION RESIDENTS, AND THIS IS WHERE IT ALL BEGAN FOR CARLOS. YOUR MOM, WE'RE OLD FRIENDS BY NOW. MY BEAUTIFUL MA THAT I LOVE SO MUCH. I THINK, IF I HAVE ANY SKILLS IN ME ABOUT COOKING, IT'S BECAUSE OF HER AND MY FATHER. THEY'RE EXCELLENT COOKS, SERIOUSLY. AT LEAST ONCE A MONTH, RESOURCES AND RECIPES ARE POOLED, AND IT'S A FEAST. THE FAMILY GATHERS TOGETHER AND COOKS TOGETHER. THEY EAT, DRINK, SHARE NEWS, KIDS RUNNING AROUND EVERYWHERE -- EXACTLY THE PICTURE THAT CARLOS MISSED FOR SO LONG. THIS IS ONLY NOT EVEN 20% OF MY FAMILY. TOGETHER, WE ARE LIKE 250, EVEN MORE. IN THE KITCHEN NERVE CENTER, CARLOS' MOM AND HIS AUNT SPEARHEAD A TREMENDOUS OPERATION THAT BEGAN OVER 24 HOURS AGO. THAT'S HOW MUCH TIME YOU NEED TO DO MOLE POBLANO RIGHT. THE HEARTY AND COMPLEX, LIGHTLY BITTERSWEET, SPICY CHOCOLATE SAUCE INVOLVES ABOUT 30 INGREDIENTS, AND IT'S SAID THAT EVERY COOK IN MEXICO HAS THEIR OWN RECIPE. IT'S LABOR INTENSIVE, REQUIRING CONSTANT STIRRING AND ATTENTION, ALMOST A DOZEN VARIETIES OF CHILIES. YOUNGER NIECES WATCH OVER SHOULDERS, HOPING TO PICK UP VALUABLE SECRETS. AT THE SAME TIME, MASA FOR TAMALES IS MIXED BY HAND, ROLLED UP IN CORN HUSKS FOR STEAMING, MORE MASA FLOUR FOR TACOYAS, A SMALL, FRIED TORTILLA CAKE, SPECIAL RICE WITH PORK FAT, TURKEY LIVER, GIZZARDS, AND PEAS. AND ANOTHER SPECIALTY -- REFRIED BEANS LIKE YOU'VE NEVER HAD. CARLOS AND I SIT DOWN. EMILY, CARLOS' GIRLFRIEND, HIS MOM, AND DAD. MOM WORRIED THAT EVERYBODY'S HAVING A GOOD TIME, THAT THE FOOD IS PROPERLY SEASONED. AND, OF COURSE, IT IS. IT'S AMAZING. REAL TAMALES, THEY ARE, LIKE, LIGHT, YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN? IT'S ALMOST LIKE A SPONGE CAKE. MM-HMM. OH, MAN. THAT'S GOOD. THE STAR OF THE MEAL IS THE MOLE POBLANO. AND ONCE YOU'VE HAD THE REAL THING, HOME-MADE LIKE THIS, YOU CAN NEVER GO BACK. THAT IS SO GREAT. FOR ME, IT'S THE BEST MOLE I'VE EVER HAD BECAUSE MY MOM DOES IT, AND I THINK IT'S JUST UNBELIEVABLE. PICA? IT'S PERFECT. SO, THAT'S ONE OF THE BEAUTY OF MOLE. GOOD MOLE HAS TO BE SWEET AND SPICY AT THE SAME TIME. SWEET, SPICY, A LITTLE BIT OF BITTER. JUST A LITTLE. SO GOOD. OH, THAT'S GOOD. WHAT I ALWAYS REMEMBER ABOUT MEXICO IS THE HANDS, THE CONVEYANCE OF FOOD FROM ONE HAND TO ANOTHER, THE CARING, SKILLFUL SHAPING AND KNEADING OF DELICIOUS THINGS, FLAVORS AND TEXTURES AND COLORS THAT TELL YOU SOMETHING PERSONAL, WHERE THE COOK COMES FROM. "THIS IS WHO I AM. THIS IS WHERE I'VE BEEN. "THIS IS MY HISTORY. THIS IS WHAT I LOVE. "THIS IS ME. I AM POBLANO. WELCOME." SO, CARLOS, I MET YOUR FAMILY AND BEEN AROUND YOUR TOWN, BUT WHAT I DON'T REALLY KNOW IS, HOW'D YOU GET FROM HERE TO THERE? I MEAN, TO MAKE THE STORY VERY SHORT IS, MY COUSIN WHO WAS LIVING IN NEW YORK, HE ASKED ME, "DO YOU WANT TO COME FOR A YEAR?" THAT WAS MY GOAL, TO GO FOR ONE YEAR. AND THEN I WENT TO THE EMBASSY, AND I ASKED FOR A VISA BECAUSE IT WAS TOO LATE. IT WAS IN AUGUST. IT'S TOO LATE. SO I HIRED A COYOTE. YOU HIRED A COYOTE. I HIRED A COYOTE. HOW DID YOU ACTUALLY, PHYSICALLY CROSS THE BORDER ON FOOT? RUNNING ON FOOT. RUNNING. FRIGHTENED? WAS IT SCARY? NO. IT WASN'T SCARY BECAUSE IT WAS VERY CALM. JUST CROSSING THROUGH. YEAH, JUST WALKED THROUGH. AND I HAD MY FIRST CHEESEBURGER. THAT WAS YOUR FIRST CHEESEBURGER. YEAH. THEY FEED US WITH CHEESEBURGERS. THAT WAS THE FIRST TIME I HAD. FROM THERE, ACROSS THE BORDER TO ARIZONA, WHERE CARLOS AND 25 OTHERS BOARDED A PLANE TO NEW YORK. A COUSIN WAS ALREADY THERE. NOT LONG AFTER, THE COUSIN GOT CARLOS A JOB AT LES HALLES. HE'D BE THE FIRST TO TELL YOU HE GOT LUCKY ALONG THE WAY, BUT I'LL TELL YOU THAT CARLOS STOOD OUT FROM THE BEGINNING. HARD WORK, INCREDIBLE PERSEVERANCE, AND QUICK LEARNING POWERED A RATHER METEORIC RISE FROM FRY COOK TO EXECUTIVE CHEF. SEVEN SHORT YEARS FROM BOTTOM TO TOP. HE NOW RUNS FOUR RESTAURANTS AND COOKS MORE CLASSICALLY FRENCH THAN MOST FRENCH COOKS I KNOW. AND FOR 10 YEARS OF THAT, THOUGH, COULDN'T COME BACK. SO, HOW DID YOU FINALLY GET LEGAL? WELL, THE RESTAURANT, IT SPONSORED ME. WHAT? THAT WAS, LIKE, AN AMNESTY PROGRAM? KIND OF. I STARTED IN 2001, AND I GOT THEM IN 2005. YES. [ LAUGHS ] IT WAS ONE OF THE HAPPIEST DAYS OF MY LIFE. IT WAS A LONG TRIP TO NEW YORK AND AN EVEN LONGER JOURNEY TO CITIZENSHIP. TO SEE WHERE HE'S COME FROM, TO UNDERSTAND HOW HE GOT THERE, FOR THAT, I'M GRATEFUL. THANKS, CARLOS.