The Layover with Anthony Bourdain - Philadelphia

(Anthony) SO PHILADELPHIA, "THE CITY OF BROTHERLY LOVE"-- WE'RE GONNA TRY TO AVOID ALL THAT (bleep). DID ANYONE HAVE SEX UNDER THE LIBERTY BELL AT ANY TIME IN IMPORTANT MOMENTS IN AMERICAN HISTORY? FRANKLIN WAS A WEENIE WAGGER. THAT'S WHAT YOU'RE SAYING. OH, THAT'S WONDERFUL. THAT IS SO DELICIOUS. OH, WOW. THERE WILL BE NO CHEESESTEAKS. AND THERE WILL BE NO FILM THAT SHALL NEVER BE MENTIONED. YOU SHOULD REALLY TAKE DOWN THAT ROCKY STATUE AND PUT UP A JOE FRAZIER STATUE. YOU THINK I COULD GET ANY SUPPORT FOR THAT? (bleep) BROTHERLY LOVE. CHEERS TO PHILADELPHIA. (groans) ♪ 24 HOURS TO GET BACK TO YOU ♪ (Anthony) MY RELATIONSHIP WITH PHILADELPHIA HAS ALWAYS BEEN... LET'S CALL IT COMPLEX. I'VE NEVER MANAGED TO MAKE A SHOW HERE, AND FOR AWHILE, IT WAS GETTING TO THE POINT THAT WHEN I'D PASS THROUGH ON A BOOK TOUR, PEOPLE WOULD SAY, "HEY, YOU SHOULD COME TO PHILLY AND DO A SHOW," WHICH QUICKLY BECAME, "HOW COME YOU HAVEN'T DONE A SHOW IN PHILLY?" WHICH JUST AS QUICKLY BECAME "(bleep) YOU. WE DON'T NEED YOU ANYWAY." IT'S LIKE THAT HERE, AND ODDLY ENOUGH, I FIND THAT ATTITUDE KINDA CHARMING. FOR YEARS, AND I MEAN BACK IN THE DAY WHEN I FIRST CAME DOWN HERE, PHILADELPHIA WAS A TWO-HORSE RESTAURANT TOWN. YOU HAD THE ESTEEMED CHEF GEORGES PERRIER AND A LOT OF CONCEPT RESTAURANTS FROM STEPHEN STARR. MOST PEOPLE WHO MADE TRAVEL TV SHOWS HERE DID THEM ABOUT SANDWICHES, THE FAMOUS CHEESESTEAK IN PARTICULAR. THERE WILL BE NO CHEESESTEAK IN THIS SHOW. LET ME SAY THAT RIGHT UP FRONT. LET THE OTHER (bleep) DO IT. WE'RE PAST THAT. AND PHILADELPHIA HAS LONG SINCE MOVED PAST THAT, TOO. NOTHING AGAINST THE CHEESESTEAK, MIND YOU. I LIKE 'EM FINE, BUT THINGS HAVE CHANGED--A LOT. LET'S CATCH UP ON WHAT I AND A WHOLE LOT OF OTHER PEOPLE HAVE BEEN MISSING. LET'S SAY YOU'RE ARRIVING AT PHILADELPHIA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT, ABOUT 7 MILES SOUTH OF CITY CENTER. YOU COULD HOP A BUS, TAKE THE SEPTA TRAIN, OR JUMP IN A CAB, WHICH WILL RUN YOU ABOUT 40 BUCKS. PHILADELPHIA IS PRETTY WALKABLE, SO YOU DON'T REALLY NEED A CAR. IN FACT, PARKING IS PAINFUL AROUND HERE, SO DON'T RENT A CAR IF YOU CAN AVOID IT. PUBLIC TRANSPORT IS PRETTY DECENT. HOTEL OPTIONS? YOU PROBABLY WANT TO STAY IN CENTER CITY. THE RITTENHOUSE HOTEL AT RITTENHOUSE SQUARE IS AN OLD-SCHOOL GRAND HOTEL-- LUXURY AT LUXURY PRICES. A.K.A. RITTENHOUSE ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE PARK IS A BIT MORE MODERN AND A BIT MORE AFFORDABLE. I'M STAYING AT THE FOUR SEASONS ON LOGAN SQUARE, BECAUSE THAT'S THE WAY I ROLL, AND THE SERVICE HERE IS IMPECCABLE. YOU KNOW, PHILLY HAS ALL OF THESE DISTINCT NEIGHBORHOODS... OLD CITY, CENTER CITY, WEST PHILLY, WE'RE RIGHT NEXT TO THE SCHUYLKILL RIVER HERE. ON THE EAST IS THE RIVER, AND AS YOU MOVE WEST YOU GET INTO WEST PHILLY, WHICH IS PENN CAMPUS. YES. NORTH PHILLY AND, LIKE... (clears throat) FISHTOWN AND LIBERTIES IS KIND OF VERY, VERY RITZY NOW. CENTER CITY IS, UH, WHERE THE RESTAURANT DISTRICT IS. SOME ARE A LITTLE BIT MORE ARTSY. SOME ARE A LITTLE BIT MORE EDGY. SOME ARE WHERE YOU GO TO HANG OUT. THEY ALL HAVE THEIR OWN SORT OF SPECIAL VIBE, AND EVERYONE WHO LIVES IN THEM LOVES THEIR ONE AREA AND, LIKE, YOU LIVE THERE, OR THAT'S IT. YOU DON'T LIVE IN PHILADELPHIA. (playing "The Battle Hymn of the Republic") WHERE TO GO NEXT? WHAT TO DO? OH, LOOK, A TRAVEL GUIDE. LOGAN SQUARE RIGHT HERE USED TO BE USED FOR PUBLIC EXECUTIONS AND GALLOWS. OH, THE GOOD OLD DAYS. "SO MANY OYSTERS WERE CONSUMED AT ONE TIME IN THE 19th CENTURY, "THAT DISCARDED SHELLS WERE USED TO PAVE STREETS "AND BUILD WHARVES. THE LIBERTY BELL..." BLAH, BLAH, BLAH. "BEN FRANKLIN HAD A FONDNESS FOR TAKING "WHAT HE CALLED 'AIR BATHS.' "ON MANY A MORNING "HE WOULD THROW OPEN THE WINDOWS OF HIS HOUSE, STRIP NAKED, AND LOUNGE AROUND FOR ABOUT AN HOUR." FRANKLIN WAS A WEENIE WAGGER. THAT'S WHAT YOU'RE SAYING. HEY, THIS BOOK ENDED UP BEING USEFUL AFTER ALL. FIRST STOP--SOUTH PHILLY. ITALIAN IMMIGRANTS STARTED SETTING UP HERE FAR BACK AS 1884, AND TODAY, THE NEIGHBORHOOD IS STILL CONSIDERED THE BEATING HEART OF ITALIAN-AMERICAN PHILADELPHIA. NOW PAY ATTENTION. THIS PLACE, DI BRUNO BROTHERS CHEESE SHOP ON 9th STREET, IS A FAMILY-OWNED STOREFRONT THAT'S BEEN AROUND SINCE 1939. THE OWNER, EMILIO MIGNUCCI, GREW UP ON THIS STREET. 74 YEARS. YEAH. THIRD GENERATION. GRANDPARENTS STARTED IT. A LITTLE BIT. A LITTLE BIT. WHEN WE TOOK OVER, MM-HMM. NOW WE'RE UP TO ABOUT 350. I KNOW WHAT YOU'RE THINKING-- LIKE I WAS THINKING, I'M GONNA OPEN THE DOOR AND SEE MOZZARELLA, SOME PROSCIUTTO, SOME HANGING PROVOLONE, AND A DELI COUNTER, RIGHT? AND THEY GOT THAT, BIG-TIME. BUT HOLY CRAP, THEY HAVE SO MUCH MORE. AMAZING, SOFT, SMELLY, RUNNY, WONDERFUL CHEESES FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD. (gasps) YOU HAVE STICHELTON. THAT'S THE--WAIT A MINUTE. THAT'S THE UNPASTUERIZED-- THEY CAN'T CALL IT-- IT'S BASICALLY STILTON EXACTLY. BEFORE THE FASCISTIC E.U. STEPPED IN AND-- AND WOULDN'T ALLOW THEM TO DO IT. BASICALLY, IT'S REAL STILTON, BUT THEY HAVE TO CALL IT STICHELTON. WE LITERALLY-- WE LITERALLY HAVE TO TEACH PEOPLE WHAT STICHELTON IS. I MEAN, IT'S FANTASTIC, ISN'T IT? IT'S THE MOTHER LODE. IT REALLY IS. I'VE BEEN LOOKING FOR THIS STUFF. A LITTLE STROLL DOWN 9th STREET TO CHECK OUT WHAT'S LEFT OF THE ITALIAN MARKET, WHICH IS STILL SURPRISINGLY GOING STRONG WHEN THE PRODUCE USED TO UNLOAD DOWN AT THE DOCKS, THE TRAIN USED TO TAKE THEM DOWN THIS WAY, AND THEY WOULD TAKE THE PRODUCE OFF THE TRAIN AND SET UP AND SELL PRODUCE FROM THE STANDS. RIGHT. AND THIS IS 1890s. IT'S LIKE THE STORY OF THE LOWER EAST SIDE IN NEW YORK, EXACTLY. WHAT'S DIFFERENT, THOUGH, IS THAT YOU STILL HAVE PEOPLE OUT IN THE STREET SELLING STUFF. A LOT OF CITIES, THEY MAKE IT REAL-- YES. THEY WANTED TO GET RID OF THE STANDS. THE CITY WANTED TO JUST OPEN UP THE PARKING. AND I SAID, "WELL, LISTEN, "THERE'S NOWHERE ELSE IN THE COUNTRY THAT YOU'RE ALLOWED TO DO THIS." THIS IS SO UNIQUE TO PHILADELPHIA. THIS IS WHAT PEOPLE COME TO PHILLY FOR, AND THEY COME AND TOUR THE ITALIAN MARKET, AND THEY WANT TO SEE THESE STANDS. CHECK OUT PORT RICHMOND IN THE NORTHEASTERN SECTION OF PHILLY, NOTABLE FOR ITS LARGE POLISH COMMUNITY. TRY CZERW'S KIELBASA FOR THE GOOD OLD STUFF. ALSO THE SYRENKA LUNCHEONETTE GOT THAT GOOD STUFFED CABBAGE. INDONESIAN IS STILL PRETTY NEW TO THE PHILLY FOOD SCENE, BUT IS WELL REPRESENTED IN THE POINT BREEZE NEIGHBORHOOD, AND A GROWING COMMUNITY OF INDONESIAN SHOPS AND RESTAURANTS HAVE SPRUNG UP IN RECENT YEARS. A GOOD ONE IS HARDENA, A HOLE IN THE WALL THAT BOASTS INDONESIAN FOOD LIKE YOU HAD IN MALAYSIA. HIGHLIGHTS ARE THE BEEF RENDANG, SAUTéED TEMPE, JACKFRUIT CURRY, FISH CURRY, AND OF COURSE, THE PINK DRINK. (Anthony) YEAH? I SAY GOOD-BYE TO EMILIO AND HEAD INTO THIS PLACE, PAESANO'S, RIGHT ON 9th STREET IN THE ITALIAN MARKET. PETER McANDREWS-- YEAH, OKAY, HE ISN'T ITALIAN, BUT HE SERVES A MEAN SANDWICH HERE, MOST OF THEM AS BAT-(bleep) CRAZY AS HE IS. IT'S A HOAGIE. IN PHILLY, THEY CALL--THEY CALL A HOT SANDWICH A GRINDER, AH. BEEF BRISKET? I'LL HAVE AN ARISTA SANDWICH. BUT I THINK I SHOULD PROBABLY ALSO HAVE OKAY. PAESANO? THAT'S--COME ON, THERE'S AN EGG ON IT? THAT'S A RESPECTABLE-- YEAH. YEAH. OKAY, FOUR "SANGWICHES"-- PROBABLY A BIT EXCESSIVE. BUT MY CREW WILL BE ALL OVER THESE THINGS LIKE SEAGULLS ON A McNUGGET, SO I GO BIG. WHILE I'M WAITING FOR MY SANDWICHES, YOU COULD CONTEMPLATE THE ALTERNATIVES FOR HANDCRAFTED MEAT AND CHEESE DELIVERY SYSTEMS LIKE JOHN'S ROAST PORK AND AMERICAN SARDINE BAR. JOHN'S ROAST PORK IS A BIT OFF THE GRID IN THE OLD DOCKS AREA ACROSS THE INTERSTATE, A FOURTH-GENERATION BUSINESS IN A CINDER BLOCK BUNKER. IN CASE YOU DIDN'T REGISTER THE NAME, THE THING TO GET IS THE ROAST PORK SANDWICH WITH SHARP PROVOLONE AND GARLICKY SPINACH. CLOSER TO CITY CENTER IN POINT BREEZE IS THE $2 SARDINE SANDWICH AT AMERICAN SARDINE BAR. CHOPPED MARINATED SARDINE-- A SLICE OF EGG, RED ONION, MAYBE SOME ONION RINGS ON THE SIDE. BACK AT SANDWICH APOCALYPSE, HOWEVER, PETER AND CREW ARE READYING A BARRAGE OF SANDWICHES. THE GUSTAIO IS ROASTED LAMB SAUSAGE, SUN-DRIED CHERRY MUSTARD, GORGONZOLA CHEESE, ROASTED TOMATOES AND FENNEL AND SOME ARUGULA. MMM, NICE. THE LIVERACCE DOESN'T SOUND GOOD, BUT CRISPY FRIED CHICKEN LIVER, SALAMI, GORGONZOLA, ORANGE MARMALADE, LETTUCE... YOU KNOW, I LIKE ALL OF THESE THINGS, BUT TOGETHER? I WAS DUBIOUS. SOMEHOW, IT WORKS-- MAGNIFICENTLY. WOW. THAT DIDN'T SOUND LIKE IT WAS GONNA BE A GOOD THING. THAT'S AN AWESOME THING. I'M HITTING THAT LIVERACCE HARD, SO I CAN ONLY CRAM DOWN A FEW MOUTHFULS OF THE ROAST SUCKLING PIG SANDWICH OR THE BRISKET AND EGG. THE SANDWICH THAT I WAS GONNA--THAT I-- IF I HADN'T BEEN ON TELEVISION, AND I WAS LEFT ALONE HERE, I WOULD--THAT I WOULD STILL BE EATING RIGHT NOW WAS DEFINITELY THE CHICKEN LIVER THING. I DON'T--AMAZING. THAT'S WHAT LIPITOR IS FOR. MMM. HELPS ME GET THROUGH THE DAY. NOW FOR A BEVERAGE. PHILADELPHIA ALWAYS HAD A GREAT BAR SCENE. LONG BEFORE THE ARRIVAL OF FOODIE-ISM, THEY HAD GREAT BARS THAT WOULD BE THE PRIDE OF ANY GREAT CITY, NOW EVEN MORE SO. PEOPLE COME IN AND ASK ME FOR THE CITYWIDE SPECIAL, AND IT CHANGES FROM BAR TO BAR. IT'S USUALLY, LIKE, A CAN OF BEER AND A SHOT OF WHISKEY. IT'S LIKE 3 BUCKS, WHICH IS AWESOME. IF YOU GO TO THE CANTINA, WHICH IS ANOTHER FANTASTIC DIVE BAR, THEY DO IT WITH THEIR, UH, TECATE AND TEQUILA. FOR $3 IT'S FANTASTIC. IT'S AWESOME BECAUSE IF YOU DON'T HAVE A LOT OF MONEY, IT'S A GOOD THING TO DO, AND YOU CAN GET PRETTY DRUNK FAST. I DON'T REALLY LIKE TO MIX LIQUOR AND BEER LIKE THAT. WHAT DO THEY SAY? "LIQUOR BEFORE BEER, YOU'RE IN THE CLEAR, BUT BEER BEFORE LIQUOR MAKES YOU SICKER." I'M A COGNAC MAN MYSELF, BUT I DO TRY ANYTHING ONCE. STATESIDE--ONLY A FEW BLOCKS FROM PAESANO'S OFFERS ONLY SPIRITS AND CRAFT BEERS FROM THE U.S.A. WITH AN EMPHASIS ON GREAT WHISKEYS AND BOURBONS. I KNOW WHAT I'M HERE FOR. I'M HERE FOR THAT INCREDIBLY WONDERFUL BOURBON WHOSE NAME I'M NOT GONNA MENTION BECAUSE THERE ARE JUST TOO MANY SONS OF (bleep) OUT THERE (giggles) THE 20-YEAR, OKAY. OKAY, ABSOLUTELY. COMING RIGHT UP. BECAUSE IF GOD MADE BOURBON, THIS IS WHAT HE'D MAKE. SWEET. ♪♪ (sighs) IT'S AWESOME. (laughter) YEAH, MINE, TOO. IS THAT WRONG? IF IT'S JUST BEER YOU WANT, CITY TAVERN HAS ALES OF THE REVOLUTION BY YARDS BREWING. THEY'VE RE-CREATED COLONIAL-ERA BEERS AND ALES BASED ON THE ORIGINAL RECIPES PENNED BY THE FOUNDING FATHERS, WHO WERE, IT TURNS OUT, OFTEN AVID HOMEBREWERS. GOOD STUFF. BUT I'M NOT LEAVING PAPPY ALONE. ♪♪ ♪♪ THERE'S PLENTY OF, UH, NEIGHBORHOODS THAT HAVE THEIR OWN WAY TO PRONOUNCE THINGS. "WUDDER." YEAH. AND, UH... "JEET YET"? WE NEVER SAY "DID YOU EAT?" WE SAY "JEET?" THE WORD "WATER," WITH-- W-A-T-E-R, IS "WUDDER." I KNOW IT'S SPELLED W-A-T-E-R. IT JUST COMES OUT "WUDDER," W-U-D-D-E-R. LIKE, I'M SAYING IT THAT WAY. PASSYUNK IS ANOTHER ONE. IT'S SPELLED "PASS-EE-UNK." WE JUST CALL IT "PASHUNK." (laughing) I KNOW IT'S TERRIBLE, BUT IT'S A SOUTH PHILLY THING. HISTORY--I LIKE IT FINE. AND THERE'S A LOT OF IT HERE. I MEAN, THEY SIGNED THE DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE HERE, THE CONSTITUTION, HOME OF THE FIRST WHITE HOUSE. BUT I LIKE HISTORY WHEN THERE'S LOTS OF BONING AND KILLING AND VENEREAL DISEASES AND MERKINS. YES, I WANT TO HEAR ABOUT MERKINS. (laughing) THE GRIM PHILLY TOUR IS JUST MY SPEED, A ROMP THROUGH THE SEEDY, VERMIN-INFESTED UNDERSIDE OF OUR NATION'S HERITAGE. OH, YEAH. OUR GUIDE, JOE WOJIE, TOUCHES ON YOUR INDEPENDENCE HALL AND THE LIBERTY BELL AND ALL THAT, BUT QUICKLY GETS DOWN AND DIRTY WITH WHAT YOU WANT TO HEAR ABOUT ALL THE DRINKING, CAROUSING, AND WHOREMONGERING OUR FOUNDING FATHERS WERE DOING AND WHAT KIND OF FINE WOMEN THEY WERE DOING IT WITH. IN PHILADELPHIA, UNLIKE IN OTHER CITIES, WE DO NOT NECESSARILY RELEGATE PROSTITUTION TO ANY ONE RED-LIGHT DISTRICT. THE POORER THAT YOU ARE, THE FURTHER SOUTH THAT YOU LIVE, AND SO THE POORER THAT THE BALDY HOUSES GET. THE BALDY HOUSES? BALDY HOUSES-- BORDELLO, BROTHEL, ***, ESSENTIALLY. OKAY. ALL RIGHT, WELL, IT WAS BELIEVED, SORT OF INCORRECTLY, THAT IF YOU SHAVE A WOMAN'S CROTCH BALD, SHE WOULD BE LESS LIKELY TO TRANSMIT THOSE CRABS RIGHT. SO WHAT YOU'RE SAYING IS THAT-- THAT IN THIS NEIGHBORHOOD, WOMEN OF THE 17th-CENTURY AMERICA, 18th CENTURY, YEAH. 18th-CENTURY AMERICA WERE COMPLETELY HAIRLESS DOWNSTAIRS, IF-- IF THEY WERE IN THE SEX INDUSTRY, CORRECT, YEAH. WHEN'S THE LAST TIME YOU SAW *** HAIR? FOR ME IT WAS LIKE 1986. IT'S LIKE, YOU KNOW, YOU REALLY GOTTA GO BACK TO, LIKE, RON JEREMY ERA. THOUGH TO BE HONEST, THEY DIDN'T ACTUALLY WANT THE WOMEN TO BE SHAVED BALD, BECAUSE THAT MEANT-- IF YOU WERE BALD DOWN THERE, THAT MEANT THAT YOU WERE EITHER UNDERAGE OR YOU WERE A ***. SO THEY WOULD MAKE 'EM WEAR CROTCH WIGS. CROTCH WIGS-- KNOWN AS A MERKIN. WHY I KNOW THIS, I DON'T KNOW. YOU KNOW WHAT THEY WERE MADE OUT OF? THE HIDE OF A BEAVER. HENCE THE EXPRESSION. OH, JEEZ. HOW OLD ARE YOU, YOUNG MAN? AS OLD AS SOMEONE... (laughing) I'M SO SORRY. THIS IS AN R-RATED TOUR. I GOTTA--I GOTTA GO WITH THE "B" MATERIAL. (bleep). I MEAN, OOPS. BETSY ROSS-- SHE DID NOT. JOHN ADAMS WALKS IN ON BEN FRANKLIN IN A TUB WITH TWO HOOKERS PLAYING CHESS. (Joe) THIS IS THE LIBERTY BELL, OF COURSE. DID ANYONE HAVE SEX UNDER THE LIBERTY BELL AT ANY TIME IN IMPORTANT MOMENTS IN AMERICAN HISTORY... THAT WE KNOW OF? THEN MOVE IT ALONG. IF I WERE GEORGE WASHINGTON, AND I GOTTA TAKE A DUMP, WHAT'S THE EXPERIENCE LIKE FOR THE PRESIDENTIAL DUMP? WELL, HE PROBABLY WOULD HAVE WENT-- AND BASICALLY IN A CHAMBER POT. THEY'RE CHUCKING THAT STUFF ON THE STREETS. (Anthony) PAUL REVERE WAS PROBABLY (bleep) UP. HE WAS PROBABLY--IN BETWEEN "THE BRITISH ARE COMING," LITERALLY THERE'S ONE BAR FOR EVERY 25 PEOPLE HERE IN PHILADELPHIA. SO HOW CAN ANYBODY TALK ABOUT, "WELL, THE ORIGINAL INTENTION OF OUR FOUNDING FATHERS..." THEY WERE (bleep) DRUNK AND IN THE TERTIARY STAGES OF SYPHILIS! YOU KNOW, LET'S KEEP THAT IN MIND. (laughs) ♪♪ ENOUGH OF MERKINS AND THE PLEASURES OF THE FLESH. TIME FOR DINNER AT A RESPECTABLE ESTABLISHMENT. AMIS--THIS IS MARC VETRI'S THIRD RESTAURANT IN PHILADELPHIA, INSPIRED BY THE TYPICAL ROMAN NEIGHBORHOOD TRATTORIA, AND I LIKE ME SOME ROMAN FOOD. SALUD. PETER McANDREWS JOINS ME TO ADVISE AND CONSENT ON THE SELECTION OF FINE ITALIAN WINES AND AS IT TURNS OUT, DRINK QUITE A LOT OF IT. 22 YEARS. TO ME, LIKE, NEW YORK IS A PLACE RIGHT. PHILLY'S A PLACE WHERE PEOPLE DISCOVER WHO THEY ARE. WE START OFF WITH HOMEMADE MORTADELLA WITH HAZELNUT HONEY, SOME GRILLED VEAL TONGUE WITH PEPPER MOSTARDA, BUT THIS, A CLASSIC TRIPE AND WHITE BEAN STEW, IS MIND-BLOWING. OH, THAT'S WONDERFUL. SOMETHING'S HAPPENED HERE. YOU CAN'T TELL ME THAT TEN YEARS AGO-- 12 YEARS AGO YOU DIDN'T GO TO A SMART BISTRO AND FIND TONGUE, HOMEMADE MORTADELLA, AND TRIPE. IN PHILLY, THERE'S A GOOD RESTAURANT AROUND EVERY OTHER CORNER, AND I'M NOT (bleep) YOU. SO YOU'RE SAYING IN PHILADELPHIA, CHANCES ARE, YOUR PROXIMITY TO A DECENT MEAL IS PROBABLY BETTER THAN MANHATTAN. DEFINITELY. WITHOUT A DOUBT. WHATEVER HE SAYS... DON'T LISTEN TO HIM, OKAY? MARC VETRI STEPS IN BETWEEN THE WHOLE NEW YORK-PHILLY THING WITH TWO FAVORITE ROMAN PASTAS-- CACIO e PEPE AND BUCATINI ALL'AMATRICIANA. CACIO e PEPE IS FRESH PASTA TOSSED WITH PECORINO AND CRACKED BLACK PEPPER AND A LITTLE OF THE STARCHY WATER THE PASTA'S COOKED IN TO BRING IT ALL TOGETHER. GOD, THAT'S GOOD. WHAT PHILADELPHIAN BORN AND BRED, WALKING DOWN THE STREET, IS GONNA GET MORE PATS ON THE BACK AND MORE LOVE FROM PASSERSBY-- LIVING? A GUY NAMED JERRY BLAVAT. JERRY BLAVAT--HIS NICKNAME IS "THE GEATOR WITH THE HEATER." OH, YEAH, SURE. WAIT A MINUTE, YOU'RE TALKING THAT HE'D WALK DOWN THE STREET NOW AND PEOPLE WOULD RECOGNIZE HIM AND CLAP HIM ON THE BACK? IT'S--IT'S REMARKABLE. NO, THE MOST REC-- HE'S--JERRY IS A MAN OF THE PEOPLE, WHICH IS WHAT PHILADELPHIANS ARE. I LIKE KEVIN BACON. OH, YEAH. KEVIN BACON-- PEOPLE LOVE HIM. I'D BE IMPRESSED BY KEVIN BACON. I'D--KEVIN BACON. JERRY BLAVAT'S MORE RECOGNIZABLE. OF COURSE. BUT PEOPLE LOVE JERRY BETTER. TRUST ME. JERRY'S 72. HE WALKS THE STREETS EVERY DAY. TRUST ME. BILL COSBY HASN'T BEEN IN THIS CITY IN FIVE YEARS. ONLY FIVE YEARS? I'M LIVING IN HOLLYWOOD, I'M NOT COMING BACK IN FIVE... OH, THAT'S HARSH. I-I MEAN, MY FIRST EXPOSURE, ACTUALLY-- I WAS PROBABLY AS A CHILD-- THE FIRST TIME I EVER HEARD THE WORD "PHILADELPHIA" WAS PROBABLY FROM BILL COSBY, LISTENING TO HIS ALBUM. THE COS--HOW CAN HE NOT BE, LIKE, ICONIC? I'M CONFUSED. WE COULD HAVE GONE TO HAN DYNASTY IN OLD CITY, WHERE CHEF HAN CHIANG SERVES TRADITIONAL SZECHUAN FOOD. ALL THE CHEFS ARE FROM CHINA, AND THEY DO NOT ADJUST FOR AMERICAN PALATES, MEANING IT'S (bleep) SPICY. THE MUST-HAVE DISH IS DAN DAN NOODLES, WHICH ARE HAND-MIXED AT THE TABLE, BECAUSE IN HAN'S WORDS, "AMERICANS ARE TOO STUPID TO DO IT THEMSELVES." PETER AND I MEET THE MAN HIMSELF AT DIRTY FRANK'S, A FAVORITE ESTABLISHMENT OF THE CULINARY ELITE. I'M FROM TAIWAN. YES. WE'VE GOTTA--WE'VE GOTTA TALK ABOUT THIS A LITTLE FURTHER DOWN THE LINE, BUT FIRST, A BEER. WHAT SHOULD--WHAT BEER SHOULD I BE DRINKING? (Peter) THREE I.P.A.'s AND THREE SHOTS OF JAMIE. SO HERE'S TO PHILADELPHIA, AND THIS IS--THIS IS HOW YOU DO IT IN PHILLY, CHEERS. HAIL, O CAESAR. (groans) HOW'D PHILADELPHIA HAPPEN IN YOUR... WELL, UM, ME AND MY MOM, WE IMMIGRATED HERE WHEN I WAS, LIKE, 13. SO WE LIVED, LIKE, IN SUBURBS OF PHILLY. BUT MY DAD, HE'S FROM SZECHUAN. AH, SO THERE'S A CONNECTION. BUT YOU'RE CLEARLY NOT PLAYING IT SAFE. I'M PROBABLY THE ONLY RESTAURANT THAT DOESN'T SERVE, LIKE, GENERAL TSO CHICKEN. LIKE, I DON'T HAVE A PIECE OF BROCCOLI IN MY RESTAURANT. DOES IT MATTER IF IT'S AUTHENTICALLY SZECHUAN-- FROM SZECHUAN OR AUTHENTICALLY FROM YOUR BRAND? YES, IT MATTERS. I MEAN, WHICH IS MORE IMPORTANT, THAT IT'S AUTHENTIC, OR THAT IT'S DELICIOUS? TO ME, IT HAS TO BE BOTH. AUTHENTICITY TO ME IS EVERYTHING. UH... CHEERS. I'M NOT MOVING. (groans) BUT I DIDN'T MANAGE TO GET TO JOHNNY BRENDA'S OR SOUTHWARK. JOHNNY BRENDA'S IS IN FISHTOWN IN NORTH PHILLY, AN IRISH-CATHOLIC ENCLAVE AND LATER A PLACE TO SCORE DOPE, BUT THESE DAYS, AS SO MANY PLACES, THE ARTIST AND HIPSTER CREEP HAS BEGUN TO OUTNUMBER FISHERFOLK OR JUNKIES. ANYWAY, JOHNNY BRENDA'S GOES ON, A LATE-NIGHT LOUNGE WITH LIVE MUSIC UPSTAIRS AND LOCAL BEERS, ALL SOURCED WITHIN 90 MILES. OPPOSITE SIDE OF TOWN IN QUEEN VILLAGE IS SOUTHWARK, AN UPSCALE NEIGHBORHOOD JOINT WITH SOLID, STRAIGHT-AHEAD COCKTAILS. NO NONSENSE, NO TV, AND A GOOD PLACE FOR AN AFTER-DINNER MANHATTAN. BUT BACK AT DIRTY FRANK'S, THINGS HAVE BEGUN AN EVER-MORE-RAPID SLIDE INTO MADNESS. OH, GOD. (woman) CHEERS. YOU KNOW, WAIT A MINUTE, LET'S SAY THIS. LET'S SAY THIS. (bleep) BROTHERLY LOVE. CHEERS TO PHILADELPHIA. CHEERS TO PHILLY. PHILADELPHIA! THIS IS LOOKING VERY DIFFERENT ALL OF A SUDDEN, SORTA SIDEWAYS. ♪♪ CHEESESTEAK. IT'S WHAT EVERYBODY ASKS WHEN THEY COME TO 30th STREET. I DON'T UNDERSTAND WHY CHEESESTEAK IS SO POPULAR. MOST OF THE REALLY KNOWN-- WELL-KNOWN PLACES, I DON'T THINK IT'S GOOD AT ALL. IN MY OPINION, AND I HAVE A LOT OF RESEARCH IN THIS AREA, ***'S ON TORRESDALE AVENUE. IT'S OVERRATED. PEOPLE GO CRAZY ABOUT IT, 'CAUSE THEY NEVER HAD IT. I MIGHT EAT TWO CHEESESTEAKS A WHOLE YEAR. IT'S NOT HEALTHY. IT'S JUST-- IF YOU'RE FROM PHILLY, YOU REALLY DON'T... EAT CHEESESTEAKS. IT'S A TOURIST THING. I HATE THAT PEOPLE COME TO PHILADELPHIA AND THINK THAT WE'RE KNOWN FOR CHEESESTEAKS, 'CAUSE WE'RE KNOWN FOR SO MUCH BETTER FOOD. HANGOVER CURE NUMBER ONE-- THE ALWAYS-MIRACULOUS MAGICAL SUBSTANCE CALLED PHO. AND WHEN HUNG OVER IN PHILADELPHIA, PHO 75 WOULD BE YOUR PREFERRED OPTION. I'M MEETING UP WITH MICHAEL SOLOMONOV, CHEF/OWNER OF THE EXCELLENT ZAHAV RESTAURANT IN TOWN. HE'S JOINING ME FOR A BOWL OF THE GOOD STUFF. I AM, INDEED. GOOD. WELL, I HOPE YOU'RE READY FOR, LIKE, A GALLON OF HOT PIPING SOUP. OKAY, GOOD. NOODLES IN A DECEPTIVELY SIMPLE-LOOKING BUT ACTUALLY QUITE COMPLICATED BROTH. VARIOUS MEATS, CLASSICALLY BRISKET, BUT MAYBE A LITTLE BIT OF TRIPE. GARNISH THAT WITH BEAN SPROUTS, FRESH MINT, THAI BASIL, CILANTRO, LIME. YES. (laughs) SOON THE URGE TO THROW UP ON YOURSELF FADES. YOU FEEL BETTER ABOUT THE WORLD, AND IT'S TIME FOR SOME VIETNAMESE-STYLE COFFEE, WITH CONDENSED MILK, OF COURSE. MMM, SWEET. YOU KNOW, THE STEADY DRUMBEAT FROM EARLIER ON WAS, LIKE, WHY PEOPLE SHOULD COME TO PHILADELPHIA. IT WAS, UH, TALKING ABOUT, YOU KNOW, "WE HAVE GREAT ITALIAN RESTAURANTS. AND YOU KNOW, WE HAVE GREAT PHO." THIS IS WHERE CHEFS-- THIS IS WHERE EVERYBODY SORT OF EATS FOR BREAKFAST NOW. UH-HUH. THAT--THAT SAID, YOU KNOW, I HAVE THIS WEIRD KIND OF HISTORY WITH THIS CITY, UH-HUH. I WOULD HEAR FROM PHILADELPHIANS, RIGHT. YEAH. WHICH IN RETROSPECT-- UH, I HAPPEN TO HAVE BEEN-- DONE SOME DRINKING IN THE LAST COUPLE DAYS. I KINDA DIG. TOTALLY. WELL, THAT SHOULD BE--RIGHT. (laughs) I MEAN, I KINDA LIKE THAT. IT'S REALLY GOOD. IF YOU'RE NOT YET INITIATED INTO THE CULT OF PHO, THEN MAYBE BUI'S OVER IN WEST PHILLY IS WHERE YOU WANT TO GET YOUR BREAKFAST. BACON, HAM, SAUSAGE, EGG, AND CHEESE ON A BIG FREAKIN' BUN. BUT I NEED THIS. IF I WERE HERE FOR A DAY AND IN A MOOD TO INVESTIGATE NON-FOOD-RELATED ACTIVITIES, I HAD THIS CRAZY IDEA THAT, UM, I SAW SOME PEOPLE ON SEGWAYS, WHICH I WAS LIKE, YOU KNOW, IT WOULD BE FUNNY TO DO A SEGWAY TOUR BY KELLY DRIVE. IT'S RIGHT ON THE BANKS OF THE SCHUYLKILL RIVER. AND I WAS LIKE, IT WOULD BE REALLY GREAT TO TAKE A SEGWAY AND DRIVE IT INTO THE RIVER. SO I WOULD RECOMMEND THAT. I THINK THAT'S REALLY GOOD. WHAT DO YOU THINK THE SINGLE BEST THING IS ABOUT PHILLY? THE ATTITUDE? THIS IS A TOWN WITH A LOT OF HEART. IF SOMEBODY THINKS SOMETHING SUCKS, YEAH, TOTALLY. NOT MUCH OF A *** ECONOMY HERE. OH, MY GOD. NO, NO, NO. NOT A LOT OF TIGHT BUTTON-DOWNED SHIRTS. RIGHT. AND YOU KNOW, AND IF YOU TALK (bleep), YOU'RE GONNA GET YOUR *** KICKED, I WOULD THINK, SO... (laughs) IN ANY GREAT CITY. PHILADELPHIA HAS GOOD MUSEUMS, NO DOUBT ABOUT IT. MY FAVORITE IS THE MUTTER MUSEUM IN WEST PHILLY, A TEACHING MUSEUM HOUSING AN AWESOME COLLECTION OF MEDICAL ODDITIES, ANATOMICAL AND PATHOLOGICAL SPECIMENS, WAX MODELS, AND ANTIQUE MEDICAL INSTRUMENTS. GOOD TIMES. I'M LOOKING PARTICULARLY FOR CURIOSITIES RELATED TO THE LOWER INTESTINES AND BOWELS. OOH, BOWEL LUGE. OH, JEEZ, IS THAT A BUTT CRACK? OH, THAT'S JUST AWFUL. (exhales quickly) "SYPHILITIC NECROSIS." SO THIS IS WHAT HAPPENS TO YOUR SKULL, YOU KNOW, WHEN THE SYPHILIS GETS REALLY BAD. IT ACTUALLY EATS HOLES IN YOUR SKULL. WHERE'S THE FISTULAS, DAD? WHERE'S THE FISTULAS? OH, JEEZ, HUMAN HORN. EW, THAT'S GOTTA HURT. OOH, *** ZOSTER. LOOKING AT THAT, YOU'LL NEVER GO TO THE JERSEY SHORE AGAIN. I COULD DO THIS ALL DAY LONG. IN FACT, I WILL. BUT IF THIS AIN'T FUN FOR YOU, YOU COULD GO TO THE MAGIC GARDENS, AN OUTDOOR MAZE OF MORTAR, BOTTLES, BICYCLE TIRES, TEXTILES, A MAGNUM OPUS FOR MOSAIC MURALIST ISAIAH ZAGAR, A MULTITEXTURED, MULTILAYERED LABYRINTH. BACK AT THE MUTTER MUSEUM, I STUMBLE ACROSS THIS THING, THE MAGNIFICENT MEGA COLON. WOW. GIANT GROWTH OF THE COLON. WILL YOU LOOK AT THAT COLON? JESUS, THAT COULD HAVE BEEN ME. AT 16, HE WOULD GO AS LONG AS A MONTH WITHOUT MOVEMENT OF THE BOWELS. HIS COLON AT DEATH WEIGHED ABOUT 40 POUNDS. YOU KNOW, I GUESS THE MESSAGE HERE IS, FOOD ALWAYS WINS IN THE END. ♪♪ ♪♪ I'M NOT ALLOWED TO DRIVE, BECAUSE I'M APPARENTLY REALLY BAD AT IT, BUT WHEN I DID HAVE A CAR, I GOT A (bleep) TON OF TICKETS. P.P.A. IS THE WORST. BE WARY OF THE SIGNS AND PAY THE METERS, BECAUSE THE METER PEOPLE WILL TICKET YOU. TOLD YOU. OH, MY GOD, THAT--THAT'S THE ONLY TIME I THINK YOU'RE LUCKY IF YOU'RE HANDICAPPED, BECAUSE YOU GET A PARKING SPACE. FOR LUNCH TODAY, I'M OFF TO MOUNT AIRY UP NORTH A WAYS, ORIGINALLY SETTLED BY GERMAN IMMIGRANTS, TODAY A MIXED BAG. SHAWN MORELAND WORKS FOR PHILADELPHIA PARKING AUTHORITY AND LOVES THIS PLACE, CHEF KEN'S CAFé-- GOOD, SOUTHERN-STYLE, WHAT I GUESS THEY STILL CALL, SOUL FOOD. ALL THAT GOOD STUFF AND DONE WELL-- RIBS, GREENS, MAC AND CHEESE. WELCOME, TONY. CHEF KEN. MY PLEASURE. UH, I WANT TO GO FOR THE WING DINGS. WELL, I HAVE FRIED WINGS TODAY. THEY'RE REALLY GOOD. OKAY. MAC. STRING BEANS, OKAY. I'LL GET SOME, UH, SOME WINGS. MACARONI AND CHEESE. THAT'S A MIXED GREENS, COLLARD GREENS AND CABBAGE. OH, I'LL DO THE GREENS. YEAH. OH, YEAH--WHAT YOU KNOW ABOUT POT LIQUOR, MAN? THAT'S A SOUTHERN THING THERE. YOU TALKING ABOUT POT LIQUOR. OH! OKAY, OKAY, YOU GOT SOME SOUTHERN ROOTS, TOO? OH, YES, SIR. OKAY. ANOTHER LOCAL FAVORITE IS CAFE SOHO, THE GRANDDADDY OF KOREAN FRIED CHICKEN. TWO FLAVORS-- A GARLIC-SOY WASH AND A KOREAN-STYLE HOT SAUCE WASH. OUT OF THE WAY, BUT OPEN LATE UNTIL 2:00 A.M. (electronic bell dings) OVER WINGS AND GREENS, SHAWN AND I DISCUSS SOME CHANGES I'D LIKE TO SEE TO THE LOCAL LANDSCAPE. SO WHAT DO YOU THINK? I MEAN, SYLVESTER STALLONE WALKS DOWN THE STREET IN PHILADELPHIA, ARE PEOPLE GONNA SAY, "YO, ROCKY"? EVERYBODY'S LOVING THAT? FRANKLY, I'D RATHER SEE A JOE FRAZIER STATUE. WELL, YOU KNOW WHAT? I WOULD SAY THE SAME THING. YOU KNOW, THAT WOULD BE MORE APPROPRIATE WHEN WE TALK ABOUT THE VALUE, ESPECIALLY WITH BOXING, IN THE CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. WOULD THAT BE A POPULAR SUGGESTION? LIKE, IF I STARTED SHOOTING MY MOUTH OFF AND SAYING, "YOU KNOW, THEY SHOULD REALLY TAKE DOWN THAT-- "THEY SHOULD TAKE DOWN THE ROCKY STATUE AND PUT UP A JOE FRAZIER STATUE," I CAN TELL YOU THIS MUCH, YOU'LL PROBABLY HAVE AT LEAST A HUNDRED ITALIANS RIGHT, RIGHT. I WOULDN'T EVEN THINK ABOUT TOUCHING THAT STATUE. SO THEY WOULD... (laughs) MMM, I'M ENJOYING THIS BIG-TIME, BY THE WAY. (Ken) Y'ALL ENJOYING YOURSELF, MAN? OH, YEAH, THIS IS DELICIOUS FOOD. YES, IT IS. I TELL YOU, MAN, IT WOULD WAKE UP A DEAD MAN, I'M TELLING YOU. IT'S THE REAL STUFF. YOU KNOW WHAT THEY SAY DOWN SOUTH? OH, YES, IT IS. (laughs) ART, ART, EVERYWHERE ART-- ON MURAL MILE, ONE MURAL AFTER ANOTHER, STRETCHING THROUGH COMMERCIAL DISTRICT AND RESIDENTIAL STREETS, HONORING LOCAL LUMINARIES, MUSICIANS, CULTURAL ICONS. BUT IF I WERE TO RELIEVE ONE MUSEUM OF ALL ITS COLLECTION, IT WOULD BE THIS ONE-- THE BARNES COLLECTION, A LEGENDARY PERSONAL COLLECTION OF SOME OF THE WORLD'S FINEST WORKS, RECENTLY RELOCATED UNDER, SHALL WE SAY, CONTROVERSIAL CIRCUMSTANCES TO THE FAIRMOUNT ART MUSEUM DISTRICT. FOUNDED IN 1922 BY ALBERT C. BARNES. WITH ABOUT 4,000 OBJECTS, INCLUDING OVER 800 PAINTINGS, IT'S NOW ESTIMATED TO BE WORTH ABOUT $25 BILLION. NOW CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG, THIS IS GENERALLY CONSIDERED ONE OF THE GREATEST COLLECTIONS OF IMPRESSIONIST ART ANYWHERE ON EARTH. YEAH, POST-IMPRESSIONISTS AND EARLY MODERNS. YOU REALLY SEE A GREAT RANGE OF CéZANNE, RENOIR, MATISSE, AND PICASSO. MORE CéZANNES THAN PARIS, MORE RENOIRS THAN ANYWHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD. 'TWAS NOT ALWAYS SO. WHEN BARNES STARTED ASSEMBLING HIS COLLECTION BACK IN HIS HOME IN MERION, HE WAS ROUNDLY MOCKED AND INSULTED BY THE GENIUSES OF THE ART WORLD. I SAW IT BACK THEN AS HE BUILT IT, LAID OUT IN UNORTHODOX STYLE, PAINTINGS FROM DIFFERENT PERIODS PAIRED WITH METAL WORKS, ANTIQUE FURNITURE, INTENDED TO DEMONSTRATE CERTAIN PRINCIPLES. THIS IS JUST THE WAY THEY WERE LAID OUT AT THE HOUSE YEAH. THE MEASUREMENTS, ALL THE ENSEMBLES ARE HUNG AS THEY WERE FOR THE LAST 70 YEARS. VERY ECCENTRIC LAYOUT, UH, CONSIDERED VERY ECCENTRIC, PARTICULARLY WHEN FIRST ESTABLISHED, AS I RECALL, WHICH MADE IT REALLY ALL-- ALL THE MORE KIND OF BREATHTAKING AND SURPRISING. EARLY PICASSOS, WHAT ARE NOW CONSIDERED MAJOR WORKS BY EARLY IMPRESSIONISTS, CéZANNES, MATISSES, MANY, MANY GREAT WORKS HE PICKED UP CHEAPLY IN PARIS DURING THE DEPRESSION. (Anthony) I'D LIKE TO THINK THAT AT SOME POINT IN HIS LIFE HAVING, YOU KNOW, BEEN MOCKED CRUELLY EARLY ON, THAT HE HAD AT LEAST A MOMENT LATE IN LIFE TO SAY, "SEE, YOU SONS OF (bleep), I WAS RIGHT," YOU KNOW? I'M A BIG BELIEVER IN THAT, BY THE WAY. "I TOLD YOU SO." ♪♪ ♪♪ A LOT OF RESTAURANTS HERE ARE B.Y.O.B. YES. YOU CAN--YOU CAN BRING YOUR OWN BOTTLE OF WINE. YOU CAN DRINK WHAT YOU CAN, AND YOU DON'T HAVE TO LEAVE IT THERE. YOU CAN TAKE IT WITH YOU. FROM A DINING STANDPOINT, IT'S AWESOME, BECAUSE YOU FIND AN AWESOME LITTLE SPOT, AND YOU BRING WHATEVER YOU WANT, YOU KNOW? SOME B.Y.O.B.'s ARE VERY SMART IN SAYING, LIKE, THEY'LL DO MIXERS. LIKE, B.Y.O.T.-- LIKE, BRING YOUR OWN TEQUILA. YOU KNOW? AND IT'S BADASS, 'CAUSE YOU GET RIPPED ON TEQUILA AND EAT (bleep) CARNITAS ALL NIGHT. MARC VETRI HAS BEEN THE BIG DOG IN PHILADELPHIA FOR A WHILE NOW. BUT WHAT MICHAEL SOLOMONOV, A ONE-TIME PROTéGé, IS DOING AT ZAHAV IS PRETTY INCREDIBLE, TOO, AND MAKING A BIG SPLASH. ON ITS SURFACE, IT'S MIDDLE EASTERN FOOD WITH ROOTS IN ISRAEL AND LEBANON, SYRIA AND BEYOND. SOLOMONOV HAS DEEP ISRAELI ROOTS, AND TAKES YOU ON A JOURNEY THROUGH THE JEWISH DIASPORA WITH FOOD-- HUMMUS AND LAFFA BREAD, AN IRAQI-STYLE FLATBREAD. MIKE AND I HAVE, LIKE, OH, YEAH? YOU KNOW, I LEARNED TO LOVE, I MEAN, BASICALLY A LOT OF THESE FLAVORS SURE. HE LEARNED THEM FROM THE ISRAELI SIDE, YEAH. YEAH. MARC AND I DECIDE TO JUST LET MICHAEL SEND US FOOD. SOME MEZE ARRIVE-- SMALL PLATES-- APPETIZERS OF ROASTED ZUCCHINI WITH KASHKAVAL CHEESE, KIBBEH NAYYEH, GROUND LAMB KEBAB MADE WITH URFA-SPICED WALNUTS, AND A WATERMELON SALAD, BLACK OLIVE PURéE, AND FETA CHEESE. SO WHAT IS THIS MAN DOING, AND HOW IS IT THAT HE'S A SUCCESS? WHO IS BEGGING FOR, YOU KNOW, I WOULD LIKE A PERSONAL STORY OF THE JEWISH DIASPORA AS INTERPRETED BY A MEAL IN PHILADELPHIA? DID HE DO MARKET RESEARCH BEFORE, NO, HE DIDN'T GIVE A (bleep). SO THIS IS WHAT HE ALWAYS LOVED, AND YOU KNOW, HE DIDN'T LEARN THIS FROM--FROM ME. YOU KNOW, HE LEARNED, I THINK, YOU KNOW, HOW TO RUN A RESTAURANT, HOW TO FOLLOW WHAT YOU LOVE, RIGHT. IS BECAUSE IT'S NOT LIKE HE OPENED UP SOMETHING THAT EVERY OTHER CITY HAS ONE, YOU KNOW? THIS IS COMPLETELY ORIGINAL. NOR DO I. ANOTHER OPTION FOR DINNER IS TO CHECK OUT ONE OF THE MANY AWESOME B.Y.O.B.'s IN THIS CITY. WHAT WAS ONCE LOOKED AT AS A SORT OF DESPERATE, HALF-*** DINING EXPERIENCE, THE B.Y.O.B. HAS TAKEN OFF, BECOMING A PHENOMENON ALL ITS OWN IN PHILADELPHIA. THERE ARE NOW OVER 200 B.Y.O.B.'s ON RECORD. AMONG THEM, KANELLA, A GREEK CYPRIOT KITCHEN RUN BY CHEF KONSTANTINOS PITSILLIDES. HEAD-TO-TOE COOKING IS BALLS-OUT. SPECIALTIES INCLUDE PIGS' FEET AND KATSIKI-- A HEARTY BRAISE OF GOAT, ORZO, AND EGGPLANT SERVED WITH YOGURT AND SALTY CHEESE. AT ZAHAV, GRILLED DUCK HEARTS WITH CIPOLLINI ONION RINGS AND A KEBAB OF FOIE GRAS WITH SPICED PISTACHIOS. (Marc) I KNOW. SO IS IT A GOOD PLACE TO BE OR A BAD PLACE TO BE WHO'S THE BIG DOG? (laughs) I JUST WANT TO MAKE PHILADELPHIA AWESOME. I MEAN, I-I JUST-- I LOVE IT HERE, YOU KNOW? THIS IS--THIS IS WHERE I WAS ACTUALLY RAISED. THIS IS WHERE I DECIDED TO OPEN UP MY FIRST RESTAURANT. THIS IS WHERE I'M RAISING MY--MY--MY--MY FAMILY. I MEAN, I LOVE IT HERE. FINALLY, A HALF LAMB SHOULDER BRINED, SMOKED, AND SLOW-ROASTED FOR HOURS WITH CHICKPEAS AND POMEGRANATE JUICE. JUST FALLING OFF THE BONE AND SERVED WITH AMAZING PERSIAN-STYLE RICE. OH, WOW. YOU WORKED ON THIS (bleep) YEARS, MAN. WELL, IT'S TAKEN FOUR YEARS TO GET HERE. IT'S GOOD. IT'S AMAZING, DUDE. IS IT? WHEN I HEARD ABOUT THE TYPE OF FOOD YOU'RE DOING, RIGHT, RIGHT, RIGHT. HOW'D IT GO, LIKE, YOUR FIRST TWO WEEKS OF BUSINESS? WHAT WAS THAT LIKE? WELL, THE FIRST YEAR WAS PRETTY (bleep) TERRIFYING. THIS IS A PRINCIPLE DIFFERENCE FROM NEW YORK. AND THEN YOU'RE DONE. IT'S CLEARLY AWESOME, BUT--BUT SO RARELY IS AWESOME REWARDED, RIGHT. TO PHILADELPHIA, MAN. WE'RE GONNA GO HIT UP THE P&P AFTER THIS AS WELL, RIGHT? I GUESS WE ARE. ♪♪ IF YOU WANT ALCOHOL, YOU HAVE TO GO TO A STATE STORE, AND THEY'RE ALL CLOSED AT 9:00, SO IF YOU WANT TO HAVE A HARD DRINK-- LIQUOR DRINK, YOU PRETTY MUCH HAVE TO GO TO A BAR OR AFTER 2:00, YOU HAVE TO COME TO THE PEN & PENCIL CLUB. MARC, MICHAEL, AND I HEAD TO THE PEN & PENCIL-- "THE P&P," AS IT'S CALLED. A PRIVATE SOCIAL CLUB, TECHNICALLY, OPEN TO AN ASSOCIATION OF JOURNALISTS, THOUGH WELCOMING AS WELL TO SERVICE INDUSTRY WORKERS, TOO. (man) YUENGLING LAGER? YEAH, YUENGLING. LET ME PANDER TO THE HOME TEAM. EXCELLENT. AND I GOT TO GET A HOT DOG, BRO. YEAH, I'M DOING IT. AND DO-IT-YOURSELF HOT DOGS--SWEET. MARC, DO YOU WANT TO DO--DO YOU WANT TO ROCK, PAPER, SCISSORS FOR A SHOT OF HOT DOG WATER, LOSER? 2 OUT OF 3. I'M SCARED, THOUGH. OKAY. HAS GOT TO BATTLE YOU. HOW DO YOU LIKE THAT? ONE, TWO, THREE, SHOOT. YEAH. ONE, TWO, THREE, SHOOT. ALL RIGHT, ONE, TWO, THREE. AAH! ALL RIGHT, NOW IT'S ME AND YOU. TWO, THREE, SHOOT. YOU HIT HIM. (both) ONE, TWO, THREE. ALL RIGHT, NOW WE'RE 1 TO 1. THIS IS FOR THE MONEY. ONE, TWO, THREE. OHH! DRINKING HOT DOG WATER. MAKE IT A LITTLE-- A LITTLE-- YEAH, A LITTLE (bleep) THIMBLE, PLEASE. (laughs) HE'S-- THAT'S HARDLY A SHOT. (laughing) YEAH, NOW IT'S-- YEAH, YEAH, THERE. I HONOR MY COMMITMENTS. OH, IT'S HOT. IT'S HOT. IT'S HOT. IT'S HOT! THAT'S A REFRESHING BEVERAGE, MY FRIEND. ANOTHER BEER AND A HOT DOG JUICE BACK. IF YOU DO NOT QUALIFY FOR ENTRY TO THE P&P, HOWEVER, YOU MIGHT SEEK OUT RAY'S HAPPY BIRTHDAY BAR IN SOUTH PHILLY. (all) HAPPY BIRTHDAY! BACK IN THE DAY, THE OWNER'S DAD WOULD SAY "HAPPY BIRTHDAY" TO ANY AND ALL WHO ENTERED, HENCE, THE NAME. (cheering) SOPHISTICATED, TOLERANT OF A HARDWORKING JOURNALIST'S NEEDS, THE P&P ATTRACTS ONLY THE FINEST OF THE FOURTH ESTATE AND THE FINEST CULINARIANS-- PEOPLE UNAFRAID TO TACKLE A CHALLENGE. (Anthony) OH, YEAH, NOT FOR A--UH, JEEZ. (Michael) THAT'S REALLY NICE-LOOKING. LIKE AN IRISH BUS BOMB-- A GLASS OF BAILEY'S IRISH CREAM TOPPED OFF WITH A SHOT OF JAMESON DROPPED INTACT THROUGH A PITCHER OF GUINNESS STOUT. (Anthony) WHY WOULD ANY SENSIBLE HUMAN BEING WANT TO DRINK THAT? UM, AN AVERSION TO PROJECTILE VOMITING (laughing) I SURE AS (bleep) AIN'T DOING IT, BUT WE DO APPARENTLY HAVE A LOCAL VOLUNTEER. YEAH, DON'T DO IT, MAN. WOW. (man) BE CAREFUL. ALL RIGHT, PASS IT AROUND. PASS IT AROUND? NO, NO, NO. THAT'S NOT THE IDEA. IT'S ALL YOU. HELL, NO. CALL ME A (bleep) IF YOU WILL, BUT I'M NOT DRINKING THAT. (cheering) HOLY (bleep). I CAN'T BELIEVE YOU DRANK ALL OF THAT (bleep). I NEED MORE BEER. WHOO! ONLY IN PHILADELPHIA WOULD THAT HAPPEN. ONLY--ONLY IN PHILADELPHIA. GO IN PEACE, NOBLE WARRIOR, GO IN PEACE. SO I FINALLY MADE IT AFTER ALL, AND I'M GLAD I DID. PHILADELPHIA'S A TOWN WITH A LOW TOLERANCE FOR BULL-(bleep), AND A WHOLE LOT OF HEART. FORGET ABOUT ROCKY AND FORGET ABOUT CHEESESTEAK. HAVE A SAFE TRIP, MR. BOURDAIN. THANK YOU FOR STAYING WITH US. THERE'S PLENTY TO DO AND PLENTY TO EAT HERE. ♪♪