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there are many methods for measuring the shrinkage of cotton fabrics in garments
the most reliable methods use a system that properly prepares the sample for
the past
well-educated goods without tensions or restrictions during wet education
accurately measure the results
the two most adopted test methods around the world
or the eighty cc test method one thirty five
which is titled dimensional changes of fabrics after home laundering
and test method one fifty
which is titled dimensional changes of garments after home wondering
these procedures are used to predict dimensional changes that occur after
home washing and drying
in these methods a home wondering machine is used to wet out the fabric
this wells the cotton fibers and applies education without tension
wedding out of the fabric without tension
is generally enough to allow for elastic shrinkage
however complete ranking of the fabric will only occur when trying with
mechanical action takes place in the tumble dryer
for a complete and reliable shrinkage results
it is recommended to wash and tumble dry at least three cycles
almost all test methods employed by the industry make use of some version of
these tests
the materials and equipment needed for this test include the following
an automated washing machine
an automated tumble dry in the shade
standard laundry detergent
balanced cloth
an indelible ink marking pen
a fifteen-inch by fifteen-inch template cutting guide
a ruler or measuring system that yields direct wreckage numbers
and awaiting balance or scale
the procedure for measuring dimensional changes
has four steps
these include preparation step
attesting sequence
and evaluation process
and a data recording process
in the preparation step
samples already properly conditioned must be carefully and consistently
handled
place the fifteen by fifteen inch square template on the fabric
align the templates trade edges parallel to the salvage is or with edges of the
fabric and to the top and bottom edges of the sample
make sure that the edges of the template are more than ten percent from the edges
of the samples dimensions
mark the outside edges of the template
a total of three specimens should be marked if enough fabric is available
the subsequent to the specimens must be located so that different workin filling
yarns in wovens or different courses and whales and that's are included in the
test
if enough fabric is available
then the specimen should be laid out in a diagonal across the width and length
of the fabric
if not enough fabric is available
than an l shaped pattern should be used
label each specimen with proper identification
so it's always read in the link direction
the identification can be a combination of numbers letters and symbols
carefully cut out the specimens to prevent distortion
mark each specimen with three sets of length benchmarks
and three sets of width benchmarks
using the ruler
a stamp or other suitable device
make sure the ink used is indelible to laundry
normally ten-inch benchmarks are used
as they make the mathematics easier to calculate
some tests call for a larger benchmarks
which require the specimen to be larger than fifteen inches square
the washing and drying machines in the testing step
don't have to be located in a standard conditions laboratory due to the heat
and humidity generated in the laundry
each samples identification should be logged into a log book in the laundry
the information should include the i_d_ number
the number of specimens
washing and drying conditions
the cycle instructions
the type of detergent to be used
and any special instructions
the load size should consist of test specimens
and enough ballast pieces to make a four point zero pound dry weight load
well then and they did specimen should be washed separately from each other
exceptions would be in the washing of garments that contain panels of both
worlds and and knitted fabrics
the control should be adjusted to the test specifications
set the water temperature controlled to the appropriate setting for the wash and
rinse temperatures
check to wash temperature with the depth of monitor
temperature control systems are available that are very effective in
controlling the washing and rinsing temperatures
fill the washer to the water level setting required to achieve in eighteen
gallon level set the washer for a twelve minute normal cycle
and the required amount of standard detergent
allow sufficient time for the detergent connects with the water
next add the weighed sample load
and close the lid
at the end of the wash likho
transfer the washed sample load into a dryer
any loose or tangled thread should be cut off at this time
next clean the lint filter
set the dryer for the time to dry cycle at the thirty minute setting
it may be necessary for some heavy fabrics to tumble dry for a longer
period
one of the most important steps in measuring dimensional change
is that of specimen handling following drying
knitted and woven fabrics should be handled differently
remove knitted specimens from the dryer after the final drying cycle
and place flat ana conditioning rack
remember knitted fabrics are easily distorted
if mister harmon prior to measuring dimensional change
they will along gate in length
thereby falsifying the data
remove woven specimens from the dryer after the final drying cycle
and hang on the clothes lines of a portable card
the length direction of each specimen should be on vertically
the next step is the evaluation or measurement of the changing dimensions
each specimen must have its benchmarks measured
in this constructions
the length is the whale direction
and the with is the course direction
in woven constructions
the length is called the war
and the with is called the filling
record the distances or a percentage dimensional change
and enter onto a tally sheet or into a spreadsheet
the values should be reported as an average percent dimensional change to
the nearest zero point one percent for each fabric direction
as mentioned garments are evaluated for shrinkage with a slightly modified test
format
with garments the determination of dimensional change is based on the
location of benchmarks
this is important because garment construction
sewing threads
sewing tensions antrim may affect the fabric environment dimensions
therefore predetermined and agreed upon benchmark locations are used
these are covered in detail in a eighty cc test method one fifty
knit shirts are evaluated for shrinkage by using benchmarks
and in some cases with shrinkage squares
in the basic method
and it sure it is laid on the table
and all folds and wrinkles are carefully spread out on the table with the front
of the church facing up
for shrinkage measurements the shirt is marked in measured at several locations
before and after ordering
the benchmark for electric age is determined by measuring from where the
caller is sewn into the shirt at the junction of the shoulder seam
a mic is made at this point
and a tape measure is stretched from this point directly down to the bottom
edge of the waste him
how mark is made at this point and the length is recorded to the tenth of an
inch
multiple an alternate positions may also be marked
for the front and the back
the with his measured on the front of the garment just under the arm holes
ammar kas made one inch below the point where the sleeves are sewn into the
garment
the width is measured in terms of an inch from one side of the gone into the
other
the sleeves are also measured for the land starting at the top of the sleeve
word attach is into the shoulder assembly
and moving down to the edge of the sleeve along the top edge
the width of the sleeve is measured across the bottom of the hemmed edge
and other commonly measure dimension is down the shoulder seam from the neck to
the sleeve
if the area of the garment allows for it
eighteen-inch benchmarks may be placed on the front or the back of the shirt
starting above the ham
and just below the neck and at least one inch from all ages and scenes
if the size of the shirt prohibits an eighteen-inch mark
then a ten-inch mark can be used
after wandering and conditioning the shirts are again late on a table and the
same benchmarks are measured again
in order to determine the shrinkage
the length of the washed condition is subtracted from the original length
this difference is divided by the original length and the result is
multiplied by one hundred to give the percentage
for example if the original length is twenty four inches for the shoulder at
the neck insertion into the bottom of the shirt
and the washed one purchase twenty three
than the amount of shrinkage would be twenty four minus twenty three divided
by twenty four
and the total is multiplied by one hundred
to give a value of four point two percent links shrinkage
slacks or pants are measured in a different manner
the most common method is to get a late value
for measuring the change indian seem like
the with shrinkage is determined by measuring the waistband
for the length the cancer spread on the table without distorting the garment
a mark is made at the top of the in seem with apparently joins the crotch
the length is measured from this point down to the bottom of the unseen
and other technique for measuring links shrinkage on pants is to make
eighteen-inch benchmarks down either pant leg
on both the front and the back
the waistband is measured for with by carefully spreading the waistband to
eliminate foltz
a tape measure is placed at one edge
and spread across the waistband until it comes to the other edge
again the width is recorded
after wandering all the benchmarks are measured again
and the shrinkage values are calculated
using the same method as with the shirts