Ives Fb41p Set of Top And Bottom Automatic Flush Bolts for Wood Doors

Please find this product at http://absupply.net/ This video is to bring you a closer look at Ives FB41P Set of top and bottom automatic flush bolts for wood doors. There are several different components in a set of automatic flush bolts and let's go through them one at a time. First of all you are going to have your top flush bolt, ok and its different then the bottom. You will know how it's different because well first of all they are stamped top and bottom but without you having to know that. The top. Let's start with the top. The top is gravity operated, so if I've got the flush bolt in the right side up when the active door closes it will hit this trigger, forcing the bolt up. Completely non-handed, you can approach this latch from either direction, left or right. It will extend the bolt. If you were to use it at the bottom, it's going to fall and would never work. Ok. Really nice quality Ives flush bolt, really nice. The bottom looks the same, it will go like this obviously, but it has a spring on it, where this spring you see here is missing in the top bolt. That spring is what forces, when the trigger is depressed from the active door closing, forcing the bottom of the bolt down, that spring is going to force the entire assembly back up. So this set specifically is for wood doors meaning that it is a corner sort of design where you're going to mortise the top of the door and the face of the door for the flush bolt. They're automatic in the sense that whenever the active door is open these bolts are not retracted meaning the door; inactive door can just simply be pushed open. When the active door is closed, pardon me when the inactive door is closed it is still not latched until the active door comes and closes making contact with these triggers on the edge of the top and bottom of the bolt assembly, forcing the inactive door to then be latched into the frame and the floor. Obviously using these on a fire rated door would not be permissible because when your active door opens your inactive door is unlatched. That would not be a permissible situation because a fire rated door has to be both self-latching and self-closing and self-latching. Included with these flush bolts and by the way there's a link below this video to the template showing everything dimensionally important about it. Mortising for these is relatively easy. You've got two components to it. You'll have a, when mortising hardware into doors, there's generally just two components. There's a latch, pardon me a face, a plate preparation, and then a body preparation and you generally do the body preparation first. For instance, if I was going to mortise for this, I would do per the template, I would do all of the part that would be the body of this, all of this big part to the proper depth and then I would do the plate which would be the thickness of the plate, the width of the plate, the length, and of course the bottom as well, incorporating the face plates that are included. These are shown in oil rubbed bronze finish, they of course would, this is the bottom it's going to look like this on the door. They are different because the bolt sizes are different. That's what it's going to look like in the edge of the door. So you will mortise your body, then you mortise your plate and you just go off the template based on what it says. The template is a two page version on this bolt and you can see that it says you've got to mortise 2 inches deep, and the width as it's called out is, looks like it is 1". And then you will do your plate dimension which is 1/8" thick and then you know, you will have a preparation 6" wide. And then for the bottom an 8-1/16" tall on the...an 8-1/16" here and then your dimension for this which appears to be 6" and I'm interpreting the template very quickly so check those dimensions. Using a router is really the way to go with this, you will want a template. If you're going to do more than one door for these flush bolts you will want a fixture and make a router set up for doing this. The quality of the work and speed of the job will be greatly enhanced just by using the right tools. Doing this by hand with a fly bit and a hammer and chisel will take the better part of you know a life of a redwood tree of California, it will take forever to do it. Plus the quality of the job will not be very good. Included now you might be thinking, when that active door comes in contact with the inactive door there's going to be the contact of the latches constantly hitting the active door. Ives includes two of these edge plates which will be mounted on the face; pardon me on the edge of the inactive door. Pardon me, on the edge of the active door and they don't appear to have a bevel on them so you might need to tweak that a little bit, assuming your door is going to be beveled. You're also going to get a strike plate for the header and the one in the bottom is identical. There are dimensions for this on page two of the template. 15/16" wide, 2-1/4" tall, ok. These are bolt style, so they are just bolts. They are not going to be something that you know, are only engaged into the floor and into the header when the active door is closed. Then of course you're going to get all the screws in a complementary color to attach everything. You're going to need screws to attach the flush bolts at the bottom and top, the bodies to the edge of the door, and then of course your faceplates. There will be short machine screws for attaching the faceplates to the body. There are also dust boxes, sheet metal dust boxes which are included and they are going to go to cover everything off real nice. I have that on upside down, forgive me. So your sheet metal box, your dust box is going to mount over everything to dress it all off real nice, okay. Give you a nice professional finished look when it's all said and done. Very good quality Ives flush bolt, automatic flush bolts like this would be used just in situations, non-fire situations when you need the inactive door to be free swinging at that point or just so that you can come up to it and push it. So if you were going to have the active door open, you can have the inactive door completely unlatched. I've seen nursing home applications where the one door was held open, the active door was open and the inactive door could be pushed for partial privacy in a door setting. You would need to understand that automatic flush bolts like this would work best with a coordinator, a piece of hardware that tells when a pair of doors that are both equipped with door closers that tells the inactive door to close first and will hold the active door open until that active door is in a closed position and then the coordinator will allow the active door to close forcing those triggers to throw the latches. If you had the active door closed and the inactive door was closing behind it then the trigger will start to depress forcing the bolt up. Probably not going to get to a point where the inactive door is going to be securely latched to the floor and the header before those bolts start to retract, so the use of a coordinator would be very typical and of course Ives is a full line manufacturer of the bar and gravity style coordinators. I've machined for these flush bolts several times, I've installed these flush bolts several times, if you have any questions on the use, installation, or specifying of this material, or the machining of wood doors for them, you wouldn't use these for steel doors, steel doors have a different style, the extension style. A quarter style is specifically intended for the use in wood doors. If you want to know why feel free to reach out to me. If you have any questions on the Ives FB41P set of automatic flush bolts top and bottom please feel free to reach out to us. Thank you.