A Day Out In Rothenburg ob der Tauber

There are many ways into the old city of Rothenburg — all of them gates. While most cities tore down their fortifications to deal with 20th century traffic, Rothenburg ob der Tauber resisted that temptation. It certainly makes you understand the logic of these defences: this would stop a tank, let alone men on horses. You can still walk along the fortifications for a grand view of the town. The west side is built on a steep slope overlooking the Tauber river, hence the name: The red fortress above the Tauber. This also ensured that in the 20th century, the city didn’t expand westwards, so the view has hardly changed since the 16th century. You might, if you were an enemy, think about scaling the walls. And then you might decide to find an easier route. Not that there were many. You’d often have to pass through 2 or 3 gates — guarded, of course. As the town grew southwards, the fortifications had to be added to, which meant that even inside the city, there was another gate to get through to get to market. And probably another toll to pay — or guards to kill. Today, Rothenburg has invaders of a different sort: Tourists, about 1.5 million a year, half of them from Japan. Rothenburg has been attracting tourists since 1900, and this is now its main industry. No wonder: the entire mediaeval city is beautifully preserved, and is regarded as the archetypal German city. The City Hall dominates the market square. Originally, the ground floor was a sort of mediaeval shopping mall, while the business of running the city was conducted upstairs. St James’s church rises high above the city, and is currently being renovated. Built in the 14th century, it contains an altarpiece by the legendary Tilman Riemenschneider. St Wolfgang’s is built into the city wall. Apart from staring at buildings, tourists can visit one of the many shops run by Käthe Wohlfahrt, a local company specialising in Christmas decorations. There’s even a Christmas museum — open all year round. Another speciality is Schneeballen — “snowballs”. Strips of dough are formed into balls and carefully deep-fried. They come in many different flavours and colours. Local ordinances ban most modern style plastic and illuminated signs, so businesses have to keep in line with the mediaeval appearance, even if some would have mystified a 17th-century German. Rothenburg was spared the worst of the Second World War; virtually unspoiled, it’s provided a setting for many films, like “Chitty Chitty *** ***”. And it’s still good for a surprise or two. This vehicle is magnificent, although the engine certainly isn’t original. Or the turn indicators, for that matter.