Egypt

AND I'M ABOUT TO EAT WHAT? HOLY CRAP. THAT LOOKS LIKE CONGEALED [BLEEP] CAN'T WE LEAVE THAT TO ANDREW ZIMMERN? NOT IN A GRISTLY MOOD RIGHT NOW. I'M MORE OF IN A CRUSTY, CHEESY MOOD. I WANT WHAT THIS GUY'S MAKING. THAT'S LOOKING PRETTY GOOD. OH, MAN, THAT'S WHAT I WANT TO BE EATING. WHOA. [ TIRES SCREECH, HORN HONKS ] I'M ANTHONY BOURDAIN. ♪ THAT'S RIGHT ♪ I WRITE. I TRAVEL. I EAT. AND I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE. ♪ OOH ♪ ♪ YOU GOT TO ♪ ♪ GET LOST ♪ -- Captions by VITAC -- www.vitac.com CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY THE TRAVEL CHANNEL, L.L.C. EGYPT -- THE WORD SUMMONS UP SO MANY IMAGES WHICH HAVE NOTHING TO DO WITH EGYPT TODAY. YES, THERE ARE PYRAMIDS AND THE REMNANTS OF A FABULOUS, ANCIENT, AND STILL-MYSTERIOUS EMPIRE. PEOPLE ARE FRIENDLY HERE. YOU HEAR "WELCOME" A LOT. WELCOME TO EGYPT! [ LAUGHTER ] [ BLEATING ] IT'S OLD -- REALLY, REALLY OLD. WITH ITS FERTILE NILE VALLEY, IT WAS ONE OF THE OLDEST CIVILIZATIONS ON EARTH. JUST NOTHING LIKE IT. TODAY WITH A POPULATION THAT'S 90% MUSLIM, EGYPT IS THE MOST POPULOUS STATE IN THE ARAB WORLD AT NEARLY 80 MILLION PEOPLE. IT'S TRADITIONALLY A BRIDGE BETWEEN WEST AND EAST, EUROPE AND AFRICA. ARAB HOSPITALITY -- IT'S NOT A CLICHé. THOSE ARE NOT EMPTY WORDS. TO THE MILLIONS OF TOURISTS WHO VISIT EACH YEAR, EGYPT IS, OF COURSE, THE LAND OF PHARAOHS, OF TEMPLES, SPHINXES, CLEOPATRA, AND, OF COURSE, THE PYRAMIDS. IT'S UNAVOIDABLE. YOU'D HAVE TO BE OUT OF YOUR MIND TO NOT LAY EYES ON PERHAPS THE GREATEST STRUCTURES BUILT BY THE GREATEST CIVILIZATION OF THE ANCIENT WORLD, RIGHT? I'M TELLING YOU, AREN'T YOU GONNA VISIT THE PYRAMIDS? MAYBE NOT. YOU GOT TO PUT THAT IN THE SHOW, RIGHT? UM, NO. I'M HERE FOR SOMETHING ELSE. THERE'S A PARTY IN MY TUMMY, SO YUMMY, SO YUMMY. I BEGIN MY INVESTIGATIONS IN CAIRO, EGYPT'S CAPITAL CITY. IT'S THE LARGEST CITY IN AFRICA AND THE LARGEST IN THE ARAB WORLD, ITS CULTURAL AND POLITICAL CENTER. PEOPLE KEEP CALLING OUT TO ME TWO NAMES. ALI BABA! OMAR SHARIF! IT'S CROWDED -- INSANELY CROWDED -- PEOPLE IN VEHICLES MOVING IN IMPOSSIBLE-TO-INTERPRET PATTERNS. IT'S A PRETTY FRIENDLY PLACE, THIS CACOPHONOUS MAELSTROM OF RICH, POOR, THE BUSY, AND THE "WISH THEY WERE BUSY." [ HORNS HONKING ] ABDUL, MY EXPERT TAXI DRIVER WHILE IN CAIRO. AND YOU NEED AN EXPERT TO DRIVE FOR YOU HERE BECAUSE THE DRIVERS ARE THE BEST IN THE WORLD. YOU HAVE TO BE. JUST PARKING IS A TASK WORTHY OF PYTHAGORAS. THERE'S AN ENTIRE LANGUAGE OF HORNS. THEY HONK THROUGH THE NIGHT, CODED MESSAGES WHICH SAY EVERYTHING FROM, "HELLO, I'M HERE," TO "WANT A DATE?"... [ HONKING CONTINUES ] ...TO MORE DIRECT AND LESS FRIENDLY MESSAGES. BEAUTIFUL. IT'S A BEAUTIFUL CITY. BIG. [ WHISTLE BLOWS ] I LIKE IT. YOU KNOW, CAIRO SMELLS GOOD. THE CLIMATE'S NICE. I DON'T KNOW, IT JUST FEELS GOOD. THE QUINTESSENTIAL EGYPTIAN BREAKFAST IS SOMETHING CALLED FOOLL. FIRST MEAL IN EGYPT. TUCKED AWAY IN THIS SIDE STREET OF A DOWNTOWN NEIGHBORHOOD IS A CART, LIKE MANY HUNDREDS OF OTHERS, THAT'S BEEN SERVING FOOLL FOR OVER 35 YEARS. ONE. I'M TOLD THAT ABOUT 90% OF RESIDENTS HERE HAVE THIS FOR BREAKFAST EVERY DAY. THE UTILITY BREAKFAST OF WORKING PEOPLE IN CAIRO. WHAT IS FOOLL? IT'S COOKED AND MASHED FAVA BEANS SIMMERED SLOWLY IN A COPPER POT. OIL, GARLIC, CHILI PEPPER, AND A FEW OTHER SPICES ARE ADDED. OH, YEAH, THE DELUXE VERSION. EXCELLENT. IT'S SERVED WITH A SIDE OF PICKLED VEGETABLES HERE AND ALWAYS EATEN WITH A LOT OF EGYPTIAN FLATBREAD. IT'S BASICALLY REALLY NUTRITIOUS FILLER -- A WAY TO FILL YOUR STOMACH FOR REAL CHEAP. THEY CALL IT "A ROCK IN THE STOMACH." IT'S ACTUALLY REALLY GOOD. THIS IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE. THE FOOLL IS BASICALLY SOMETHING TO SCOOP WITH OR SOAK BREAD IN. IT'S THE SMALLER COMPONENT IN WHAT FOR MANY POOR EGYPTIANS IS THE MAIN MEAL UNTIL DINNER -- A LOT OF BREAD, A LITTLE FOOLL. NOW, WORLDWIDE, THE PRICE OF BASIC STAPLES LIKE FLOUR AND RICE AND COOKING OIL HAS DOUBLED. SO WHAT YOU'RE SEEING HERE -- A SIMPLE DISH OF BEANS, A STACK OF BREAD, IS A VITAL EQUATION THAT CAN VERY LIKELY DETERMINE THE FUTURE OF THE COUNTRY. [ SIGHS ] I'M READY FOR THE PYRAMIDS. OH, I'VE SEEN THE PYRAMIDS. [ HORNS HONKING ] GOT SOME "MAD MAX" [BLEEP] GOING ON HERE. THERE DOESN'T SEEM TO BE ANY TRADITIONAL LANE SYSTEM HERE. [ HONKING CONTINUES ] DIRECTIONALS ARE PRETTY MUCH OPTIONAL. IF IT'S POSSIBLE TO HAVE A HARROWING RIDE IN SLOW MOTION, I GUESS THAT WOULD KIND OF DESCRIBE IT. [ HONKING CONTINUES ] KHAN EL-KHALILI MARKET, ONE OF THE BIGGEST BAZAARS IN THE MIDDLE EAST. IT'S A TOWN OF MARKETS AND SHOPS THAT REPRESENT CAIRO'S ORIGINS AS A COMMERCIAL AND TRADE CENTER, AN INTERNATIONAL CROSSROADS. IT'S STILL ALL ABOUT BUSINESS OF ALL KINDS, AND THERE IS, OF COURSE, SOMETHING FOR EVERYBODY, FROM THE GOLD AND SPICES OF ANCIENT TIMES TO T-SHIRTS AND TOURIST JUNK. IT'S THE KNICKKNACK DISTRICT. IS THAT COFFEE? CAFé? MM-MMM. THE SPICES -- IT IS GOOD FOR THE STOMACH. YEAH. [ SPEAKS ARABIC ] YOU SPEAK ARABIC? [ BOTH LAUGH ] MMM, FESTIVE MYSTERY BEVERAGE. TASTES LIKE FERNET BRANCA. [ SPEAKS ARABIC ] I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THAT WAS. WHAT WAS THAT? [ LAUGHS ] [ INDISTINCT CONVERSATIONS ] PERHAPS I COULD FIND A PROFESSOR OF, SAY, SOCIOLOGY TO HELP EXPLAIN THE IMPORTANCE AND HISTORICAL CONTEXT OF SOME OF THIS STUFF, LIKE THIS GUY, DR. SAYED OF THE AMERICAN UNIVERSITY IN CAIRO, WHO, AS LUCK WOULD HAVE IT, SPECIALIZES IN MATTERS RELATING TO FOOD WAYS AND CULTURE. WHAT A BREAK! THE OLDEST SPICE MARKET IN THE MIDDLE EAST. LET'S LOOK AT IT. SPICES -- WHERE DO I BEGIN? SAFFRON, INDIGO, INCENSE, CLOVES, HENNA, CARDAMOM, CHAMOMILE, CINNAMON, GROUND CHILES, HIBISCUS. THE SPICE TRADE GREW UP IN THE MIDDLE EAST AROUND 2,000 B.C. Bourdain: HISTORICALLY, I MEAN, THIS WAS THE CENTER OF THE SPICE WORLD, FIRST OF ALL. THIS IS WHERE ALL THE SPICES FROM FURTHER EAST CAME FROM INDIA. YOU GREW SPICES HERE, AS WELL. WHAT MADE THEM DESIRABLE? THE ANCIENT EGYPTIANS DISCOVERED THAT WHEN YOU EMBALM, YOU CAN KEEP MEAT, AND SO THEY BEGAN TO USE IT IN FOODS. SPICES WERE AMONG THE MOST EXPENSIVE, LUXURIOUS, AND DESIRABLE PRODUCTS AVAILABLE IN THE EUROPE OF THE MIDDLE AGES, PRESERVING AND FLAVORING FOODS AND MASKING THE SCENT OF, WELL, SMELLY EUROPEANS FOR WHOM BATHING WAS SOMETHING OF A ONCE-IN-A-BLUE-MOON ACTIVITY. GREAT FORTUNES WERE MADE SELLING, TRANSPORTING, AND FINDING SOURCES OF SPICES, ALL OF THEM IMPORTED FROM PLANTATIONS IN ASIA AND AFRICA. THE SPICES WERE USED AS A MEANS FOR TRADE, BARTER TRADE. INSTEAD OF PAYING CASH, YOU WOULD PAY IN SPICES. THE CONTROL OF TRADE ROUTES AND FINDING SHORTER WAYS AROUND EXISTING TRADE ROUTES AND DISCOVERING NEW SUPPLIES WAS THE MAIN REASON FOR THE AGE OF EUROPEAN DISCOVERY AND EXPANSION. CHRISTOPHER COLUMBUS CONVINCED THE SPANISH ROYALTY, "I WILL GET YOU JEWELRY, DIAMONDS, AND SPICES." SO, REALLY, THE WHOLE MOVE OF WESTERN EXPLORATION AS WE KNOW IT WAS A DESIRE TO CUT OUT THE MIDDLEMAN. EXACTLY. EUROPE CRAVED SPICES. Bourdain: BUT, REALLY, AT THE VERY BEGINNING, AT THE FIRST USE OF SPICES, SPICES WERE LIFE ITSELF. THEY PRESERVED MEAT SO THAT YOU COULD EAT, SO YOU COULD SURVIVE. NOW THIS IS THE SORT OF THING THAT WOULD MAKE ANY CHEF VERY, VERY, VERY HAPPY. TO THEM, IT'S A WORLD OF POSSIBILITIES, OF REFINING SPICES TO MAKE FOOD DELICIOUS. Sayed: MAYBE SOME ARE NOT USING THEM AS MUCH, BUT I DON'T THINK YOU CAN FIND ANY HOME IN THE WORLD TODAY THAT DOESN'T HAVE SOME SPICES. IT DOESN'T EXIST. I WOULD LIKE TO EAT SOME OF THOSE SPICES, LIKE ON A BIRD, PERHAPS. ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR DELICACIES THAT COMES TO US FROM ANCIENT EGYPT TIME IS STUFFED PIGEON. THAT SOUNDS GOOD. THAT'S STILL AVAILABLE AROUND HERE? WE WILL TRY IT. NOW, I LOVE PIGEON. MOST OF MY FELLOW NEW YORKERS REFER TO THEM AS "RATS WITH WINGS." BUT NOT CHEFS. CHEFS KNOW THEY WERE IMPORTED TO NEW YORK ORIGINALLY AS FOOD. IN MOST CULTURES, HOWEVER, THEY ARE STILL HIGHLY REGARDED AS A DELICACY AND SPECIALLY BRED AS THEY ARE HERE, IN CAIRO, ON ROOFTOP COOPS OR IN THE COUNTRYSIDE. AT FARAHAT RESTAURANT DOWN A NARROW ALLEY IN THE MIDDLE OF THE MARKET, PEOPLE DON'T FEED PIGEONS. PIGEONS RIGHTLY FEED PEOPLE. THIS IS NOT AN EVERYDAY DISH. THIS IS A SPECIAL. THIS IS A DELICACY. YES, PIGEON WAS ALWAYS A DELICACY TO HAVE THIS KIND OF BIRD. AND THE NEWLYWEDS -- IT WAS ALSO BELIEVED THAT THE PIGEON WOULD BE LIKE AN APHRODISIAC. APHRODISIAC, HUH? YEAH, RIGHT. IF EVERYTHING I'VE HAD DESCRIBED TO ME IN MY TRAVELS AS AN APHRODISIAC ACTUALLY WORKED, HALF THE WORLD WOULD BE WALKING AROUND WITH A ***. YOU'D GET PREGNANT JUST TAKING THE BUS OR A SUBWAY. FIRST THE PIGEON'S CAVITY AND NECK ARE STUFFED WITH RICE SEASONED WITH CINNAMON, CARDAMOM, AND BAY LEAF, THEN SIMMERED IN STOCK UNTIL TENDER BEFORE BEING ROLLED IN SPICES AND SEARED IN A PAN UNTIL CARAMELIZED. [ SIZZLING ] THE BIRDS ARE SERVED WITH TAHINI, THE USUAL SALAD SIDE OF CUCUMBERS AND TOMATOES, AND PICKLED VEGETABLES. THIS IS SOUP. YES. PIGEON SOUP. AH, NICE. LET'S EAT. SO, WHAT FIRST? TRY THE TAHINI. MMM. GOOD. LOVE IT. SOUP FROM PIGEON. IT'S VERY HEAVY, BUT IT'S VERY GOOD. OH, TERRIFIC. NO, THAT'S GOOD FOR YOU, TOO. SOMETIMES, "GOOD FOR YOU" IS ALSO REALLY GOOD. MMM. THAT'S DELICIOUS. UTTERLY DELICIOUS, BY THE WAY. NO TWO WAYS ABOUT IT. YOU DON'T HAVE TO BE AN ADVENTUROUS EATER. JUST DIG IN. THEY'RE GREAT. IN AMERICA, WE'VE KIND OF LOST SIGHT OVER TIME WITH ANOTHER GREAT CULINARY TRADITION, BECAUSE ALL THE GREAT CULTURES OF THE WORLD EAT PIGEON AS A DELICACY. I MEAN, CERTAINLY THE FRENCH, THE ITALIANS, EVERYWHERE IN THE ARAB WORLD. IT WAS POPULAR IN MEDIAEVAL EUROPE, EATING PIGEON. OH, IT'S STILL POPULAR IN FRANCE. YOU'D FIND IT IN THE VERY FINEST RESTAURANTS. SO, NEXT TIME A PIGEON CRAPS ON YOUR WINDSHIELD, LURE HIM INTO A CAGE, FEED HIM ABUNDANTLY FOR A FEW WEEKS, THEN KILL HIM AND EAT HIM. THAT'LL TEACH HIM. FOR A LITTLE BIRD, THAT'S A REALLY BIG -- THAT'S A NICE MEAL. MMM. NEXT UP, THANK GOD I QUIT SMOKING. I SHOULD REALLY TEACH YOU HOW TO SMOKE SHISHA. REALLY? WHAT AM I MISSING? THIS LAND OF ANCIENT, MYSTICAL WONDER, SACRED SOIL OF MYSTERIOUS WORLD-FAMOUS MONOLITHS. OH, THOSE PYRAMIDS. A LOT OF TOURISTS OUT AT THE PYRAMIDS, YES? MANY, MANY PEOPLE. MANY, MANY PEOPLE. A LOT OF BUSES, A LOT OF TOURISTS. OH, IT'S UNBELIEVABLE. THE TAXIS AND THE TOURISTS AND CARS. I THINK I'M GONNA BE, LIKE, THE ONLY VISITOR TO CAIRO WHO'S NEVER -- WHO'S NOT GONNA GO TO THE PYRAMIDS. I DON'T THINK I'M GONNA GO. I DON'T WANT TO SOUND DISMISSIVE AT ALL. I COMPLETELY UNDERSTAND AND RESPECT THAT THE PYRAMIDS ARE PERHAPS THE GREATEST ACHIEVEMENT IN THE ANCIENT WORLD. BUT I DON'T WANT TO GO SEE SOMETHING SO BEAUTIFUL, SO FANTASTIC, AND SEE MILES OF TOUR BUSES SNAKING AROUND AND TOWARDS THEM. IT'S WEIRD. I REALLY DON'T CARE. IS THAT WRONG? FRESH FROM AN *** OF PIGEON KILLING AND STILL SPITTING FEATHERS AND BEAK BITS ONTO THE FLOOR OF THE CAB, I'M HEADED OFF TO A MEETING WITH A LOCAL BUSINESSMAN, MAZA. HE SAYS THERE'S A SUPREMELY, UNIVERSALLY BELOVED FORM OF EGYPTIAN FAST FOOD THAT I'VE GOT TO TRY IF I'M GONNA UNDERSTAND ANYTHING ABOUT EGYPT AND EGYPTIANS. WHAT I WANT TO KNOW IS WHAT'S GOING ON UP HERE. I MEAN, I'VE SEE IN THE LAST FEW MINUTES LIKE 100 PEOPLE WALK INTO THIS BUILDING. WHAT DO THEY SELL AT THIS PLACE? IT'S KOSHARI. IT'S A VERY FAMOUS TRADITIONAL DISH, ACTUALLY. KOSHARI. KOSHARI, YES. IF YOU DON'T TRY KOSHARI IN CAIRO, IT'S LIKE VISITING NEW YORK AND NEVER TRYING PASTRAMI OR A DIRTY-WATER HOT DOG OR UTILITY PIZZA. AND THIS PLACE HAS GOT TO BE SEEN TO BE BELIEVED. I MEAN, THAT GUY'S MOVING REAL FAST. THAT GUY'S WORKING HARD. HE'S LIKE THAT ALL DAY? NOT ONLY THIS GUY. ANY GUY WHO IS SERVING KOSHARI IN ANY PLACE IN EGYPT, YOU'LL FIND HIM WORKING AS FAST AS THAT GUY. HE MUST HAVE ARMS THIS THICK. A LOT OF THE MEN, ACTUALLY, FOR KOSHARI IN EGYPT HERE. IT'S NOT EXPENSIVE. NO, IT'S NOT EXPENSIVE AT ALL. EVERYBODY, RICH AND POOR, EVERYBODY LIKES IT. EXACTLY. IT'S LIKE TRADITIONAL EGYPTIAN FAST FOOD. ALL RIGHT, MAN, I HAVE TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THIS. WE CAN GO IN NOW. [ INDISTINCT CONVERSATIONS ] ABOU TAREK. WHAT STARTED OUT AS A FAMILY-RUN STREET CART HAS ENGORGED INTO A MULTI-STORY, SIT-DOWN, TURN-AND-BURN OPERATION, A HUGELY POPULAR PLACE ALWAYS FULL, SERVING THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE DAILY. [ MAN SPEAKING ARABIC ] HOW OLD IS THIS DISH? MAYBE 1,000 YEARS. WAIT A MINUTE -- 1,000 YEARS? KOSHARI WAS INVENTED IN INDIA. YES, EXACTLY. KOSHARI IS, AGAIN, LIKE FOOLL, A STARCH-FEST. SAME PRINCIPLE -- RICE, SPAGHETTI, BLACK LENTILS, AND CHICK PEAS TOPPED WITH FRIED ONIONS. VERY AFFORDABLE, IF NOT CHEAP, NUTRITIOUS 'CAUSE OF THE BEANS AND LENTILS, AND IT FILLS YOU UP. AHA. [ SPEAKING ARABIC ] OKAY. I'LL TELL YOU, IT SMELLS GOOD. THOSE FRIED ONIONS, IT SMELLS GOOD. SO, HOW DO YOU SAUCE IT? SOME PEOPLE LIKE A LOT OF SAUCE. THE SAUCE IS LIKE A TOMATO/CUMIN THING. THIS IS A VERY IMPORTANT DRESSING TO ADD. YOU HAVE TO SHAKE IT, FIRST OF ALL. THIS ONE IS VINEGAR AND GARLIC. TOGETHER, THE DISH COMPRISES A HISTORY OF THE WORLD AND THE TRADE ROUTES OF ANTIQUITY WITH INFLUENCES FROM THE EAST AND FAR EAST AND ELSEWHERE. OH, IT'S GOOD. THE ONIONS REALLY MAKE IT. AND THEN THIS IS HOT SAUCE? HOT SAUCE, YES. OH! I LIKE HOT SAUCE. ALL RIGHT, NOW, THAT'S GOOD. OOH, I LIKE THAT. AWESOME. DOES EVERYBODY'S MOTHER MAKE THIS? EVERYONE. IT'S ESSENTIAL. I WOULD NOT MARRY ANY WOMAN WHO CANNOT MAKE THIS. CAN'T MAKE THIS. YES. [ LAUGHS ] SO, AFTER A BOWL OF THIS, YOU DON'T NEED ANYTHING ELSE. YOU ONLY NEED A CUP OF TEA, AND THAT'S IT. NOW, DO THEY DO TEA HERE OR DO YOU HAVE TO GO SOMEWHERE ELSE? SOME PLACES SERVE IT HERE IN THE RESTAURANTS. ALSO SERVE IT ON THE CAFé. BUT WE PREFER TO WALK TO THE CAFé, YEAH? THAT WAS GOOD. SITS ON YOUR STOMACH LIKE A SACK FULL OF QUARTERS, BUT GOOD, VERY GOOD. [ MAN CHANTING IN ARABIC ] CAIRO AT NIGHT. IT'S LOUD. THE HONKING AND BEEPING AS CARS CONTINUE THEIR NOISY, NEVER-ENDING, SIMULTANEOUS, NON-VERBAL CONVERSATION. AN ISLAND OF CALM, QUIET REFLECTION IS CALLED FOR WHERE TWO GENTLEMEN OF THE WORLD CAN SIT AND SOLVE ALL THE WORLD'S PROBLEMS OVER TEA, PERHAPS, AND SHISHA. SO, WHERE TO NEXT? TO MY FAMOUS CAFé HERE IN EGYPT. IT'S A VERY OLD CAFé. THIS IS OUR DAILY ROUTINE, ACTUALLY. EVERY DAY, WE COME HERE, SIT, AND I WILL INTRODUCE YOU TO SOME OF MY FRIENDS, AS WELL. OH, EXCELLENT. THIS IS KOSTAMOR CAFé, ONE OF THE OLDER, MORE TRADITIONAL CAFéS OF CAIRO. IT'S A MAN'S MAN'S MAN'S WORLD, SEEMINGLY UNCHANGED SINCE THE '50s AND EARLIER. WHAT DO YOU NORMALLY DRINK HERE? NORMALLY TEA. TEA. AND BY NIGHT, I DRINK TEA WITH MILK. TEA WITH MILK. THIS IS NOT JUST AN ORDINARY CAFé. THIS IS SOME SERIOUS -- PEOPLE COME HERE. YES, YOU CAN FIND SOME POLITICIANS HERE, SOME FILM DIRECTORS. IT'S A VERY FAMOUS CAFé. THIS IS A GUY THING. MEN ONLY. EVERYTHING IN EGYPT SEEMS TO BE "A GUY THING." WHAT'S UP WITH ALL THE GUYS? MAKES ME A BIT NERVOUS. I NEED SOMETHING THAT CAN TAKE THE EDGE OFF. WHAT'S THE WATER PIPE THOUGH? SHISHA? YEAH, I SMOKE SHISHA. I'VE BEEN LOOKING FORWARD TO THIS, BECAUSE I QUIT SMOKING 11 MONTHS AGO. AND IN ORDER TO MAKE QUALITY TELEVISION, I THINK IT'S IMPORTANT THAT I... YOU SHOULD TRY IT. ...SACRIFICE MY PRINCIPLES AND SMOKE SOME SHISHA. YOU WILL NOT SMOKE QUITE SO MUCH. WHAT FLAVORS DO THEY -- DO THEY HAVE DIFFERENT FLAVORS? APPLE'S THE CLASSIC? MMM, HOOKAH ACTION? WHY, YES. YES, I WILL. I SHOULD REALLY TEACH YOU HOW TO SMOKE SHISHA. REALLY? WHAT AM I MISSING? YES. YEAH? ...YOU SHOULD DO IT FROM HERE, NOT FROM YOUR MOUTH. SO, LUNGS. I AM NOT ENJOYING THIS AT ALL. NOT ONE BIT. YEAH, MUCH BETTER. YES, YOU'RE GETTING BETTER. MY LUNGS WERE ENTIRELY TOO HEALTHY. AND, KIDS, TOBACCO IS BAD, BAD, BAD. THIS IS GREAT. MMM, CURIOUSLY SATISFYING. HEY, I FEEL BETTER AND COOLER AND, SOMEHOW, MORE MANLY. OH, YEAH, I COULD GET GOOD AT THIS. 38 YEARS OF SMOKING, I... GOOD PRACTICE. SO, THESE ARE -- MOST OF THE PEOPLE THAT COME HERE ARE PROFESSIONAL GENTLEMEN, OUR AGE OR YOUNGER. WHERE DO THE KIDS GO? MOST OF THE KIDS DOESN'T CARE ABOUT SUCH CAFé LIKE KOSTAMOR NOW. NO? WHAT DO THEY WANT? A LOT OF MODERN CAFéS, GIVING THEM MORE SERVICES LIKE WI-FI INTERNET. AND I DON'T BELIEVE ANYONE FROM THEM IS KEEN TO SIT, DISCUSSING POLITICAL SITUATION OR EVEN TO PLAY BACKGAMMON. BACKGAMMON IS FOR OLD PEOPLE NOW LIKE US. WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY "OLD"? AND I DON'T PLAY BACKGAMMON. I DON'T HAVE THE RIGHT CLOTHES FOR IT. YOU BETTER REFILL THE BOWL, MAN. IT'S BEAT. WELL, I HAVE TO SAY, THE SHISHA DID MAKE ME FEEL BETTER. GREAT FOR MY EMPHYSEMA, TOO. TOMORROW, AN UTTERLY POINTLESS AND STULTIFYING BORING, IF NOT ACTIVELY PATHETIC, BOB-ABOUT IN A GIMPED-OUT FELUCCA, ABOUT AS EXCITING AS A SLOWLY LEECHING BOIL. BE SURE TO CHANGE CHANNELS NOW. [ HORNS HONKING ] THE MIGHTY NILE -- LIFE FORCE, SOURCE OF POWER FOR EARLY CIVILIZATION. ITS LIQUID FLOWS UP, AND BLAH BLAH BLAH. YOU GET THE PICTURE. RIVER FLOWS, [BLEEP] GROWS AROUND IT, MOSTLY GREEN STUFF THAT PEOPLE EAT. A LITTLE QUIETER THAN CAIRO. A COMMON WAY TO SAIL THE NILE USED TO BE THE FELUCCA, NOW AVAILABLE FOR CREDULOUS TOURISTS AND PRODUCERS. BASICALLY, A FELUCCA IS A WOODEN, FLAT-BOTTOMED SAILING BOAT. AND THE IDEA FOR THE FOLLOWING EXERCISE IN FUTILITY WAS -- WELL, I DON'T KNOW REALLY. I GUESS A PICTURESQUE, DYNAMIC MEANS OF GETTING SOME INTERESTING FACTUAL INFORMATION INTO THE SHOW. THIS IS HASSAN, A REALLY NICE GUY AND AN EGYPTOLOGIST WHO'S SUPPOSED TO TALK ABOUT THE PYRAMIDS. YOU KNOW, THE PYRAMIDS THAT I'M NOT GOING TO? FIRST TIME TO SAIL ON THE NILE? FIRST TIME TO SAIL THE NILE. FIRST TIME ON THE NILE, PERIOD. THE NILE IS THE REASON THERE IS AN EGYPT. IT IS THE MOST FERTILE AREA. IT IS, AND IT'S ALSO ONE OF THE REASONS OF THE EXISTENCE OF THE ANCIENT EGYPTIAN CIVILIZATION. PEOPLE DIDN'T DO BIG EFFORT TO PRODUCE FOOD. IT WAS VERY EASY. BUT WHAT WAS THE PURPOSE FOR THIS SCENE? YOU'VE VISITED THE PYRAMIDS ABOUT A THOUSAND TIMES. IS IT STILL... IS IT STILL EXCITING SOMETIMES? IT IS. I'M STILL, LIKE, FASCINATED BY THESE HUGE MONUMENTS, ASKING HOW THEY HAVE BUILT THAT. SHOULD I GO? I HAVE TO SAY, MY RESOLVE IS WAVERING A LITTLE. [ CRASHING ] JUST BROKE THE MAST. ABOUT 10 MINUTES OUT IN THIS TUB, AND OUR SKIPPER, GILLIGAN, RAMS THE [BLEEP] THING INTO THE [BLEEP] BRIDGE, SNAPPING THE MAST IN HALF, AND VERY NEARLY IMPALES ME WITH FALLING TIMBER. [ CRASHING ] [ MAN SPEAKING ARABIC ] YOU BETTER -- WE'RE GONNA HAVE A SITUATION HERE IN A MINUTE. DID THIS DETER OUR GLASSY-EYED, INSANELY OPTIMISTIC PRODUCER, THE FACT THAT OUR VESSEL WAS SUDDENLY NO LONGER SEAWORTHY AND APPARENT TO ANYONE, COMPLETELY, TRAGICALLY, VISIBLY GIMPED-OUT LIKE A CRIPPLED SEAGULL? OH, NO -- WE'RE BOBBING ABOUT IN THIS THING FOR ANOTHER [BLEEP] TWO HOURS PRETENDING LIKE NOTHING HAS HAPPENED AND LIKE NO ONE WILL NOTICE THAT WE CAN'T EVEN MOVE. HEY, DOC, HOW 'BOUT WE SWIM ASHORE AND GRAB US SOME GRILLED MEAT? [ HORN HONKS ] BY WAY OF APOLOGY FOR THE POINTLESSLY STUPID AND INSULTING FLOATING PICNIC GONE WRONG, I TAKE HASSAN OUT FOR SOMETHING I ACTUALLY KNOW A LITTLE ABOUT AND ENJOY -- SIZZLING HUNKS OF MEAT. EL RAFI, SAYS HASSAN, IS ONE OF THE BEST IN THE CITY IN ONE OF ITS OLDEST NEIGHBORHOODS. THIS IS THE PLACE, HUH? YEAH. WHO ARE ALL THESE GUYS IN THE PICTURES POSING WITH THIS GENTLEMAN? THE EGYPTIAN ELITE. SO EVERYBODY EATS HERE. NO. JOURNALISTS, SINGERS, TV ANNOUNCERS, WRITERS. OH, VERY COOL. [ SPEAKING ARABIC ] GOT TO HAVE IT. YEAH. [ SPEAKING ARABIC ] YES. YES. [ SPEAKING ARABIC ] AND THEY HAVE WHISKEY. BERBER WHISKEY, EGYPTIAN WHISKEY. [ LAUGHS ] YOU KNOW IT'S EGYPTIAN WHISKEY. SWEET TEA, TEA. NO, NO. IT'S DIFFERENT. THE WATER FROM PICKLED VEGETABLES. OH, REALLY? THE WATER, THE SALTY WATER WITH SPICES, YOU CALL IT HERE "WHISKEY." OKAY. I WANT THAT, TOO. YEAH, SO WE'LL HAVE IT ALL. [ LAUGHTER ] SOMETIMES IT DOESN'T EVEN MATTER WHAT YOU ORDER. YOU KNOW IT'S GONNA BE ALL RIGHT. WE GOT YOUR KAFKA, WHICH IS GROUND BEEF MIXED WITH SPICES, SAUSAGES, AND LAMB CHOPS, AND SOME LAMB NUTS -- ALWAYS GOOD. THERE'S THE DURA GURT TAHINI AND BABA GHANOUSH AND SALAD, BUT HONESTLY, IT'S ALL ABOUT THE MEAT. CHEERS. CHEERS. OH, THAT'S GOOD. THAT MAKES YOU HUNGRY. SO, HOW MUCH MORE IS THERE YET TO BE DISCOVERED IN EGYPT OF ARCHEOLOGICAL FINDS? WOW. WE STILL HAVE A CHANCE TO DISCOVER MORE AND MORE. AND PRESERVING IT IS DIFFICULT. IT'S TOTALLY IMPOSSIBLE, YOU KNOW? I HAVEN'T BEEN TO SEE THE PYRAMIDS. YEAH. IS IT WRONG OF ME? I MEAN, IT'S THE DAMN TOURISTS. IT IS, BUT, YOU KNOW, IT'S UNIQUE, AS WELL. I KNOW, I KNOW. I FEEL GUILTY. OKAY, ENOUGH PYRAMID THERAPY. IT'S DINNERTIME. THAT'S A LOT OF MEAT. OH, MAN, THAT'S AMAZING. THAT'S A KAFKA, THE GROUND MEAT AND SPICES. TESTICLES. TESTICLES. THAT'S FOR ME. I LIKE THAT. HUNGRY. USUALLY WE USE OUR HANDS. OH. I DON'T KNOW. IT'S UP TO YOU. NO, HANDS ARE GOOD. THE PERFECT HAPPINESS ONLY ATTAINABLE THROUGH SIZZLING MYSTERY MEATS. OH, MAN, THAT'S GOOD. MMM. IT IS A MEAT-FEST. MEAT, MEAT, MEAT, MEAT, MEAT, MEAT, MEAT -- THAT'S A LOT OF MEAT. FANTASTIC. OH, MAN, THAT'S GOOD. OH, YES. SWEET, BETWEEN-YOUR-TEETH DELICIOUS. WHEN WE COME BACK, I THINK IT WISEST TO GET OUT OF TOWN FOR A WHILE. [ BLEATING ] AFTER FOUR SEASONS OF THIS SHOW, I'M LIKE A MASS MURDERER. [ GOAT SQUEALING ] [ HORNS HONKING ] WITH ALL THE TRAFFIC AND THE CROWDS OF CAIRO, YOU CAN GET A LITTLE CLAUSTROPHOBIC AFTER A WHILE. NOISY HERE. SO I'VE DECIDED TO HEAD SOUTH ALONG THE NILE THOUGH THE FERTILE NILE RIVER VALLEY. [ BLEATING ] THIS IS BASICALLY A DESERT COUNTRY. ONLY 4% OF EGYPT'S LAND IS ARABLE. THINK ABOUT THAT NUMBER FOR A WHILE. ADD 80 MILLION PEOPLE TO THAT PICTURE. SINCE ANCIENT TIMES, EGYPT'S POPULATIONS HAVE ALWAYS NECESSARILY HUGGED THE NILE. EARLY FLOODS OF THE RIVER MADE THE TOPOGRAPHY LUSH, FERTILE, AND PERFECT FOR GROWING. I MEET UP WITH YASMINE, A CAIRONESE DESIGNER WHOSE FAMILY IS FROM THE SMALL FARMING VILLAGE OF SEDS. THIS SMALL VILLAGE ON THE NILE, LIKE MANY IN EGYPT, IS SIMPLE, RURAL, BEAUTIFUL, AND LARGELY POOR. Yasmine: OKAY, YOU SEE THESE DRAWINGS ON THE WALL? Bourdain: YEAH. THIS IS THE HAJJ, THE PILGRIMAGE. SO, WHEN SOMEONE GOES TO MECCA OUT OF FESTIVITY AND CELEBRATION, THEY JUST TRY SOME VERSES, AND THEY DRAW THE... [ SPEAKS ARABIC ] THIS IS AYED, YASMINE'S CHILDHOOD FAMILY FRIEND, A LOCAL FARMER AND LIFELONG RESIDENT OF THE VILLAGE. TODAY, AYED HAS INVITED YASMINE AND I TO DINE AT HIS HOME WITH HIS FAMILY. [ ALL SPEAKING ARABIC ] AYED'S HOUSE IS A MUD-AND-BRICK STYLE DWELLING COMMON TO THE AREA, WHERE THE HUMANS LIVE IN THE HOUSE AND THE ANIMALS ON THE ROOF. [ GOAT SQUEALING ] AW. IT'S VERY CUTE. SO, DUCKS, CHICKENS, AND GOAT. DUCKS, CHICKENS, AND GOATS. ALL UP HERE, AND THAT'S A PRETTY TYPICAL ARRANGEMENT WITH THE LIVESTOCK UPSTAIRS. WELL, WE DIDN'T COME UP ON AYED'S ROOF JUST TO LOOK AROUND. WE CAME TO, WELL, PICK SOMETHING FOR DINNER -- A DUCK, ACTUALLY. LOOKS LIKE IT'S YOU, BUDDY. I FEEL HER PAIN. LIFE IS NOT FAIR. [ QUACKS ] SO LONG, QUACKY. [ INDISTINCT CONVERSATIONS ] SO, AYED'S WIFE AND DAUGHTERS ARE PREPARING DINNER A LA MINUT. BATEO BREAD BAKED FRESH AND COMMON TO THE AREA. THE CHEESE AND BUTTER ARE ALSO FRESHLY MADE AFTER BEING VIGOROUSLY SHAKEN IN A GOAT-SKIN VESSEL CALLED A KADA. THE BUTTER IS SEPARATED FROM THE THICK CHEESE, AND THE CHEESE IS HUNG TO DRAIN AND SOLIDIFY. MOLOUKHIYA IS A PHARAONIC DISH THAT'S BEEN MADE PRETTY MUCH THE SAME WAY FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS. IT STARTS WITH A DUCK STOCK, THEN DRIED MOLO LEAVES ARE ADDED, ALONG WITH FRESH GARLIC. [ INDISTINCT CONVERSATIONS ] THEN IN GOES THE DUCK. IT'S SIMMERED TILL TENDER, THEN FRIED TO CRISPY PERFECTION. WHILE DINNER IS BEING PREPARED, A LITTLE QUIET TIME. ENJOY THE COUNTRY LIFE. IN A PREDOMINATELY DRY AND ARID COUNTRY, HERE I'M SURROUNDED BY HUES OF LUSH GREEN AND ROWS AND ROWS OF FLOWING WHEAT. WHAT WE'RE LOOKING AT IS A LOT OF BREAD. WE RETURN TO AYED'S PLACE, BUT DINNER ISN'T READY YET. LOOKS LIKE THE TALL STRANGER HAS DRAWN A BIT OF A CROWD. THEY THINK WE'RE FROM MTV. HE LOOKS WORRIED. [ LAUGHS ] SHOW HIM THE VIEWFINDER. [ CHUCKLES ] SHOW THEM A VIEWFINDER, IT'S LIKE A LITTLE MORE FUN, YOU KNOW? AH, HELLO ENGLISH. WHOSE IS THIS? WOW, THIS IS HARD. "STORIES AND FAMOUS PEOPLE." I'M IN THIS CHAPTER. THE RABBIT. LION. NOW, THIS... CAMERA. RIGHT. OKAY, I'VE DONE MY GOOD DEED FOR THE DAY. OH, ALL RIGHT. SO, WE SIT DOWN TO A TABLE OF MOLOUKHIYA, FRESH CHEESE, DUCK, AND THE LOCAL BREAD. MMM. GOOD. NOW, TELL ME ABOUT THIS DISH. MOLOUKHIYA. TASTES LIKE A THICK AND RICH KALE SOUP, AND NOT BAD AT ALL. NOW, DOES EVERYBODY EAT THIS? THIS IS PRETTY MUCH A STAPLE RIGHT ACROSS THE BOARD. YEAH, WE DO IT EXACTLY THE SAME WAY EVERY YEAR. AND THERE'S SOME PARTS OF EGYPT, THEY DO IT DIFFERENTLY. IN SUEZ, THEY DO IT WITH SHRIMPS AND RED SAUCE. I CAN SEE THAT. THAT WOULD WORK. HOW MANY KIDS NOW ALL TOGETHER? 10. 10? HOW MANY GIRLS? HOW MANY BOYS? [ SPEAKING ARABIC ] [ SPEAKING ARABIC ] SIX GIRLS AND FOUR BOYS. OH, THAT'S A NICE MIX. [ BOTH SPEAKING ARABIC ] VERY GOOD. IS THE CHEESE LIKE A FRESH FARMER CHEESE? YEAH. IT'S GOAT CHEESE. [ SPEAKING ARABIC ] OH, NO, IT'S A COW. MMM. IT'S REALLY GOOD. [ SPEAKING ARABIC ] SURPRISINGLY GOOD STRAIGHTFORWARD HOME COOKING, THE RESULT OF YEARS OF PRACTICE. [ INDISTINCT SHOUTING ] STRANGE AMERICAN COMING THROUGH. MY FRIENDS. YOUR FRIENDS? YOU KNOW ALL THESE GUYS? WHAT'S YOUR NAME? MY NAME IS TONY. THESE LITTLE ONES SEEM TO HAVE TAKEN A LIKING TO ME. WHAT CAN I SAY? [ CHEERING ] OH, YEAH. A BEAUTIFUL DAY IN THE COUNTRY, AND NO HONKING. NEXT UP... ...EVEN FURTHER FROM THE HUSTLE OF CAIRO, SAND AND MORE SAND. AND EVEN SOME LAMB CHOPS. THE WORD "BEDOUIN" COMES FROM THE ARABIC WORD "BEDU," WHICH MEANS "INHABITANT OF THE DESERT." AND I GOT TO TELL YOU, IN MY LIMITED EXPERIENCE WITH WIDE-OPEN SPACES, I FOUND I TEND TO LIKE DESERT-DWELLING PEOPLES. THEY TEND TO BE DIFFERENT, LESS SERIOUS-MINDED, LOOSER, AND MORE, I DON'T KNOW, FUN THAN THEIR COUSINS IN THE CITIES. THESE GUYS ARE NO EXCEPTION. AHMED IS THE LEADER OF THIS GROUP, DESCENDED FROM GENERATIONS OF DESERT-DWELLING NOMADIC PEOPLES WHO TRAVEL BY CAMEL. SO, NO HILTON, NO SWIMMING POOL, NO... [ LAUGHS ] THE DESERT. NO. THESE DAYS, THE PREFERRED MEANS OF TRANSPORT IS THE S.U.V., THE PICKUP, AND, IN PARTICULAR, THE 1979 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER, THE LEGENDARY GOLD STANDARD OF DESERT VEHICLE PREFERRED BY BEDOUINS EVERYWHERE WHO ARE NOW AS LIKELY TO BE EXPERT DRIVERS, MECHANICS, AND MACHINISTS AS KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT CAMELS. AND THEY ENJOY THEIR VEHICLES, PARTICULARLY WHEN THERE'S A CAMERAMAN STRAPPED PRECARIOUSLY TO THE ROOF OR AN AMERICAN TV HOST TO SCARE THE [BLEEP] OUT OF. THE WESTERN DESERT. NO SIGNAL. I MUST COMPLAIN TO MY VERIZON REPRESENTATIVE. HARSH, BARREN... BUT BEAUTIFUL. YOU CAN SEE WHY GENERATIONS OF POTTY ENGLISHMEN REALLY WENT CRAZY FOR THIS KIND OF NOTHINGNESS AND AUSTERITY. YOU KNOW, SOME PEOPLE LIKE PALM TREES AND JUNGLES, SOME PEOPLE LIKE WATER -- GOT TO BE NEAR WATER, GOT TO BE NEAR WATER. OTHERS, THIS REALLY SPEAKS TO THEIR SOUL, YOU KNOW? YOU KNOW, THIS IS -- THIS IS THE SEA THAT SPEAKS TO THEM. I GUESS IF INTROSPECTION IS YOUR THING, THE DESERT IS A GOOD PLACE FOR YOU. MY NEW FRIENDS SET UP CAMP AND START PREPPING FOR DINNER, WHICH, THIS BEING THE REAL WORLD, MEANS BAD NEWS FOR LAMB CHOP OVER HERE, WHO'S ABOUT TO LIVE UP TO HIS NAME. SO, TO KILL IT PROPERLY, IT HAS TO BE POINTED IN THE CORRECT DIRECTION? YEAH, WE WANT HIS HEAD SOUTHEAST. WHICH DIRECTION IS THAT? THE DIRECTION TO THE PROPHET MUHAMMAD IN SAUDI ARABIA. YES. IS IT SHARP? OH, YEAH. AHMED BEING AN OBSERVANT MUSLIM DISPATCHES THE ANIMAL IN THE PRESCRIBED WAY -- POINT HEAD TOWARDS MECCA, USE A VERY SHARP, VERY CLEAN KNIFE, AND INVOKE THE NAME OF GOD WHILE DOING THE JOB. THE IDEA IS THAT THE LIFE OF THIS CREATURE IS BEING TAKEN WITH GOD'S PERMISSION TO MEET ONE'S LAWFUL NEED FOR FOOD. THE BLOOD IS CAREFULLY AND COMPLETELY DRAINED IN KEEPING WITH RELIGIOUS DICTUM, BLOOD BEING CONSIDERED HARAAM, OR FORBIDDEN. AS HE HITS IT WITH THE STICK, HE CAN HEAR WHETHER THE AIR HAS REACHED THAT POINT. SKIN AND CLEANSE THE ANIMAL THOROUGHLY, THEN MAHMUD, CHEF EXTRAORDINAIRE AS IT TURNS OUT, BEGINS TO SERIOUSLY COOK WHILE AHMED AND I TAKE A STROLL. SO, THIS IS EVERY DAY FOR YOU? YEAH. ALL MY LIFE IS THE DESERT. SO, YOU DON'T LIKE THE CITIES? NO, NO, NO. HOW MUCH TIME DO YOU SPEND IN CAIRO? IN CAIRO, JUST ONE HOUR, TWO HOURS, ONE NIGHT. THAT'S ENOUGH FOR US, YEAH, BECAUSE OUR PERSONALITIES -- IT DOESN'T AGREE WITH THE BUSY PLACE. WHEN WE START, WE WORK WITH A CAMEL. WHEN WE ARE YOUNG, WE GO TO CAIRO FOR 14 DAYS WITH A CAMEL. REALLY? YEAH, AND SOMETIME THE CAR TAKES 7 DAYS, 8 DAYS. WHY? BECAUSE WE HAVE JUST ONE CAR, AND IT'S STUCK LOTS OF TIME. CAMEL WAS MORE DEPENDABLE. NOTHING BEAUTIFUL MORE THAN THESE THINGS. NOTHING BEAUTIFUL. ALL LIFE, SOMEONE MAKE IT, BUT THIS IS NOT TO MAKE IT. YEAH, YOU CAN'T BUILD THIS. YES, NOBODY BUILDS THIS. NOBODY PAINTING THIS. ONION, GARLIC, CUMIN, CHILE PEPPER, AND BLACK PEPPER ARE RUBBED ALL OVER THE GOAT. OH, COOL. WOW, THIS IS VERY DIFFERENT THAN WHAT I'VE SEEN BEFORE. YOU REALLY RUBBED THIS WITH A LOT OF SPICE, HUH? YEAH. THAT LOOKS FANTASTIC. OH, YEAH. THAT SMELLS GOOD. OH, MAN, THAT'S COOL. SO, BEING IN THE DESERT AND WITH THE BEDOUIN, YOU DON'T COOK ON OR EVEN NEAR THE SAND, BUT IN THE SAND. [ SPEAKING ARABIC ] STAY GOLD, LAMB CHOP. STAY GOLD. COMING UP, A GAME KIND OF LIKE PICK-UP-STICKS, ONLY WITH AN ELEMENT OF PLAYFUL ***. I DON'T WANT TO BE OVERDRAMATIC, BUT, YOU KNOW, IF YOU WERE OUT HERE ALONE... ...YOU KNOW, WITHOUT AHMED, CAR BREAKS DOWN? I MEAN, I DON'T KNOW IF YOU NOTICED -- THERE WERE LIKE NO CARS EVEN ON THE ROAD. THERE WAS NOTHING. IT IS GORGEOUS OUT HERE. WHAT CAN I SAY? YOU EITHER LOVE THIS OR YOU DON'T. I LOVE IT. [ SIZZLING ] A LITTLE PRE-DINNER ACTIVITY, EH? A LOCAL GAME OF CHANCE OR SKILL? YEAH. TOP. "TOP," IT MEANS "RIGHT." "MIETE," IT MEANS "WRONG." IF YOU HAVE THREE LIKE THIS AND ONE WHITE, THIS IS TOP. THIS IS CALLED... [ SPEAKS ARABIC ] THIS IS FOR HITTING. IF YOU ARE WRONG... YOU GET HIT. LIKE THIS. DO I GET TO CHOOSE WHO I HIT? CAN I HIT HIM? SO, WHERE DO YOU GET HIT? RIGHT HERE? NO, NO. HERE. ON THE HAND. OH, NICE. LIKE PICK-UP-STICKS, ONLY WITH AN ELEMENT OF PLAYFUL ***. OUCH. [ LAUGHTER ] [ SPEAKING ARABIC ] ARE YOU AS CONFUSED AS ME AS TO THE RULES OF THIS GAME? I MEAN, THEY THROW STICKS, THEN THEY WHIP EACH OTHER. [ SPEAKING ARABIC ] [ LAUGHTER ] I DON'T KNOW. THERE'S SOMETHING A LITTLE *** ABOUT THIS. I THINK I LIKE IT. MAHMUD IS FINISHING UP THE MEAL BETWEEN HAVING HIS PALM WHIPPED. TIME FOR LAMB CHOP TO RISE FROM THE GRAVE. [ MEN SPEAKING ARABIC ] OH, MAN, THAT LOOKS GOOD. I'VE BEEN SMELLING THIS FOR HOURS. SO, WHO WON THE GAME? WHO GOT HIT THE MOST? ME. YOU GOT HIT THE MOST? HOW MANY TIMES? 46. 46! YOU WERE EASY ON ME. [ ALL SPEAKING ARABIC ] MAHMUD, AS ONE ENCOUNTERS OFTEN IN THE ARAB WORLD, MAKES SURE THAT THE GUEST IS WELL-FED, AND WITH THE BEST PARTS. GOOD SPICE. VERY SPICY AND TASTY, YEAH. THIS IS VERY TENDER, VERY MOIST. [ SPEAKING ARABIC ] DO YOU HAVE, LIKE, THE LIVER IN THERE AND SOME HEART? YEAH, LIVER AND SOME HEART. THE MEAL'S ACCOMPANIED BY BEDOUIN SUN BREAD, A HARDENED BREAD THAT CAN LAST UP TO A MONTH WITHOUT GOING STALE. JUST ADD WATER AND POOF! AND BEVERAGE? NO MINIBAR OUT HERE. ONLY WATER IN A SUSPICIOUS CONTAINER. MMM, PETROLEUM RESIDUE. YOU ARE BEDOUIN, BEDOUIN WAY. IT'S GOOD. WELCOME. HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE FOR YOUR MENTALITY TO CHANGE? YOU KNOW, YOU SEE PEOPLE COME FROM THE CITY. YEAH. WHAT HAPPENS IF SOMEONE COMES HERE, THEY SAY STAY 20 DAYS? HOW DO YOU GO BACK TO NEW YORK? CAN YOU GO BACK TO YOUR OLD LIFE AFTER THAT? I DON'T KNOW. LIKE CHILD, YOU CLEAR EVERYTHING WHEN YOU STAY IN DESERT. MORE THAN FIVE DAYS, YOU ARE CLEAR FROM INSIDE, FROM YOUR MIND. LIKE A CHILD AGAIN, YOU SAY? YOU SMELL DIFFERENT BECAUSE YOU LOOK AT SOMETHING DIFFERENT, FIVE DAY. YOU HEAR SOMETHING QUIET, FIVE DAY. RIGHT. FROM FIVE DAY, YOU CHANGE. YOU CHANGE. YEAH, FOREVER, YEAH. I DON'T HAVE FIVE DAYS AND CAN'T SAY THAT ANY AMOUNT OF TIME WOULD MAKE A DIFFERENCE WITH ME. WE ARE, IN THE FINAL COUNTING, WHO WE ARE. AIN'T NO CHANGING THAT... I DON'T THINK. [ SINGING IN ARABIC ] MY FRIENDS PLAY MUSIC LATE INTO THE NIGHT, AFTER A WHOLE LIFE OF THIS, ACTING AS IF THIS IS THE FIRST TIME THEY'VE GONE CAMPING, HAVING WHAT LOOKS LIKE A HELL OF A LOT OF FUN. [ SINGING CONTINUES ] [ SNORING ] THE NEXT MORNING, IT'S TIME TO PACK OUT AND MOVE ON AS THE BEDOUIN HAVE ALWAYS DONE. ONE NIGHT IS NOT ENOUGH, SAYS AHMED, BUT THAT'S ALL I HAVE TIME FOR. YEAH, I LIKE THE DESERT. IT'S CLEAN. SO SAID PETER O'TOOLE PLAYING T.E. LAWRENCE IN THE FAMOUS FILM "LAWRENCE OF ARABIA." AND IT'S TRUE. IT IS CLEAN AND UNEARTHLY QUIET, AND YOU CAN SEE STARS AT NIGHT LIKE YOU'VE NEVER SEEM THEM BEFORE. AND THE FEEL OF COLD NIGHT SAND BETWEEN YOUR TOES AS YOU CLIMB A DUNE, PERHAPS, AND LOOK, THE DESERT STRETCHING OUT AS FAR AS THE EYE CAN SEE UNDER MOONLIGHT -- IT IS A FEELING UNLIKE ANYTHING ELSE. YOU ARE TRULY ALONE, EVEN WITH FRIENDS NEARBY, YOUR LIFE BOTH MEANINGLESS IN THE GRAND SCALE OF ALL THAT NOTHINGNESS AND SOMEHOW MEANINGFUL AGAIN, WHICH IS TO SAY, "IT'S NICE, REAL NICE." I NEVER DID SEE THOSE PYRAMIDS, NOT REALLY. OH, I SAW THEM IN THE DISTANCE, VIEWED FROM THE WINDOW OF A CAR, A HAZY, GOLDEN GLOW, PERFECT YET BLURRED, NOT A TOURIST IN SIGHT. PERFECT.