(Andrew) FOR AS LONG AS I CAN REMEMBER,

(Andrew) FOR AS LONG AS I CAN REMEMBER, SYRIA WAS A PLACE AMERICANS SIMPLY DID NOT VISIT. FOR YEARS, THE SYRIAN GOVERNMENT ALIGNED ITSELF WITH NATIONS WHOM OUR ALLIES CONSIDERED ENEMIES. THEY WARRED WITH OUR FRIENDS. AND EVEN TODAY, SYRIA OPENLY SUPPORTS TERRORIST ORGANIZATIONS. EVEN TODAY, THEY CHECK YOUR PASSPORT AT THE DOOR, AND IF YOU'VE EVER BEEN TO ISRAEL, YOU SIMPLY DON'T GET IN. SO I'M KIND OF UNEASY ABOUT WHAT KIND OF WELCOME I MIGHT RECEIVE. BUT FOR ME, THE RISKS AND INHERENT ANXIETY IS WILL WORTH TAKING. FOR MILLENNIA, SYRIA WAS A CROSSROADS FOR TRADE ROUTES BETWEEN ASIA AND EUROPE. I'M RETRACING SOME OF THOSE OLD ROUTES, SEARCHING FOR EXPERIENCES AND FOOD ECHOING BACK TO BIBLICAL TIMES. BEDOUINS ARE STILL HERDING FLOCKS IN THE DESERT. THE SMELL BACK HERE AT THIS PART OF THE SHEEP OUT IN THE DESERT-- FANTASTIC. MEDIEVAL MARKETS ARE STILL OPEN FOR BUSINESS, MAKING CHEESE LIKE THIS... (speaking indistinctly) AND SLAUGHTERING CAMELS TO MAKE THE HUMPS INTO SAUSAGE AND MAKE GOOD USE OF OTHER PARTS, TOO. LIVER, AND THE TESTICLES. THERE'S TIMELESS BEAUTY HERE, EXCITEMENT, (Andrew) WHAT IS THIS? WHOO. AND I'M COUNTING ON MY CORE BELIEF THAT ABSOLUTELY NOTHING MAKES FRIENDS AND BREAKS DOWN BARRIERS LIKE SHARING A GOOD MEAL, CHANGING THE WORLD ONE PLATE AT A TIME. SO READY OR NOT, SYRIA, HERE I COME. UGH. AND THIS IS "BIZARRE FOODS." IT HAPPENS SUDDENLY RIGHT IN FRONT OF YOU... A FASCINATING FRIEND, AN AMAZING MEAL, AND BEFORE YOU KNOW IT, YOU'RE ALIVE IN A WAY YOU NEVER IMAGINED. I LIVE FOR THOSE MOMENTS, PURSUING THE EXOTIC AND UNFAMILIAR, ESPECIALLY WHEN IT COMES TO THE FOOD. IF IT LOOKS GOOD, I EAT IT. THERE'S ONE PLACE IN SYRIA JUST ABOUT EVERYONE HAS HEARD OF. DAMASCUS LAYS CLAIM TO BEING THE OLDEST INHABITED CITY ON EARTH. PEOPLE HAVE BEEN LIVING HERE FOR AT LEAST 6,000 YEARS. THE BIBLE SAYS ST. PAUL WAS BAPTIZED HERE. TRADITION CLAIMS THE HEAD OF JOHN THE BAPTIST IS BURIED AT THIS SHRINE. THE UMAYYAD MOSQUE, ONE OF THE HOLIEST SITES IN ISLAM, WAS ALREADY A PLACE OF WORSHIP IN THE DAYS OF MUHAMMAD. TODAY, WE THINK OF SYRIA AS PART OF THE MIDDLE EAST, RINGED BY HOT SPOTS LIKE IRAQ AND LEBANON. BUT FROM ANCIENT TIMES THROUGH THE MIDDLE AGES, THIS REGION WAS THE WAY STATION FOR THE GREAT TRADE ROUTES COMING OUT OF ASIA, BRINGING SPICES, SILKS, AND OTHER FABULOUS WEALTH TO THE WEST. THAT WEALTH ISN'T SO FABULOUS ANYMORE. COMMERCE IS LOCAL NOW FROM IN AND AROUND TOWN, NOT FROM CHINA AND EUROPE. BUT SOME OF WHAT'S FOR SALE HERE IN THE SOUK, WHICH IS ARABIC FOR "MARKET," WOULD BE FAMILIAR TO SHOPPERS FROM 1,000 YEARS AGO. MY TRANSLATOR AND GUIDE IN DAMASCUS IS... A JOURNALIST, "NEW YORK TIMES" STRINGER, BORN IN DAMASCUS, WHO SHOPS IN THE SOUK A COUPLE OF TIMES EVERY WEEK. (Andrew) WOW. (speaking indistinctly) HERE IS WHERE YOU FIND ALL THE WEIRD THINGS. FOR EXAMPLE, THEY DRY THE SKIN OF THE SNAKE, AND THEY SMASH IT, AND THEY TURN IT TO OIL. AND YOU CAN PUT IT ON YOUR HEAD AND LEAVE IT FOR EIGHT HOURS EVERY DAY, AND THEN YOU WILL HAVE YOUR HAIR BACK. YEAH. YEAH, IT'S--I TRIED IT ONCE FOR, LIKE, TEN DAYS, AND IT WAS REALLY STRONG AGAIN. YEAH. YEAH. VERY IMPRESSIVE. YEAH, CAN I SEE THIS? IT SMELLS BAD, YEAH? THIS SMELLS LIKE THE CONCENTRATED TINCTURE OF A THOUSAND DEAD SNAKES. (speaking Arabic, laughing) HE SAID ALREADY YOU HAVE SOME GROWING OF HAIR. SADLY, NOT HAPPENING. WHAT ELSE HAS HE GOT IN THERE? YEAH. OH, IT'S FOR ***... LIKE, IF YOU'RE-- YEAH, IF YOU NEED IT SEXUALLY-- OH, I DON'T-- I DON'T NEED IT. YEAH, IT'S TIME TO MOVE ON. GOING INTO SOME OF THESE MARKET STALLS IS LIKE ENTERING A TIME WARP. IN THE MIDDLE AGES, PEOPLE CROSSED OCEANS TO SHOP IN DAMASCUS SPICE MARKETS LIKE THIS ONE. TO ME, THIS IS WHAT YEAH. IT IS. I MEAN, HERE YOU HAVE WONDERFUL-- MM-HMM. AND ALL THE DIFFERENT MIDDLE EASTERN SPICES. THERE ARE OTHER SHOPS HERE IN THE SOUK THAT LOOK A LITTLE MORE MODERN, BUT HAVE RICH TRADITIONS (Andrew) WOW, AMAZING. THIS MAY BE THE MOST CROWDED SHOP WE FOUND IN ALL OF SYRIA. BAKDASH MAKES MODEST CLAIM TO BEING THE BEST ICE CREAM PARLOR IN THE WORLD, AND ONE OF THE VERY FIRST. THIS IS CRAZY. YOU GUYS HAVE BEEN MAKING ICE CREAM FOR A LONG TIME, HUH? (speaking Arabic) 116 YEARS. (laughs) MMM. THIS IS A COMBINATION OF GELATO AND ICE CREAM, CHEERS. CHEERS. YEAH. (pounding rhythmically) HE'S, LIKE, DOING SOME RHYTHM. I LIKE IT. YEAH. AND THIS MUSIC MAKES BEAUTIFUL ICE CREAM. THE RAW MATERIAL HERE IS WHOLE MILK THAT'S BEEN BOILED WITH MASTIC. THAT'S A GUM MADE WITH SAP FROM AN EVERGREEN SHRUB. THEN YOU FREEZE IT. AND THEN YOU POUND THE HECK OUT OF IT. SIMPLE ENOUGH, RIGHT? (Andrew) ALL RIGHT, LET ME TELL YOU SOMETHING. THIS IS REALLY DEEP. THE ICE CREAM IS REALLY HARD. AND THIS WEIGHS ABOUT 40 POUNDS. THE CROWNING TOUCH IS A STREAM OF PISTACHIOS AND CASHEWS THAT'S LITERALLY BEATEN INTO THE MIX. (Roula) THIS IS THE REAL ONE. MIXING BY POUNDING MEANS YOU GET VERY DENSE ICE CREAM, NO AIR BUBBLES, WHICH GIVES THIS TREAT A SUBLIME TEXTURE. (pounding rhythmically) (grunts) (pounding rhythmically) WHOO-HOO. (laughs) (speaking indistinctly) I DON'T KNOW HOW THIS GUY DOES IT. THE SOUK IS PART OF WHAT'S CALLED THE OLD CITY OF DAMASCUS. WHEN YOU PASS FROM THE SOUK INTO THE STREETS OF THE OLD CITY, SIGNS OF MODERN LIFE MIX WITH A TANGLE OF ANCIENT AND MEDIEVAL STREETS. THAT'S A NICE OLIVE-- SALTY AND LEMONY, TART AND STRONG. OH, MY GOSH, LOOK AT THIS. HE'S MAKING SANDWICHES WITH THE FRENCH FRIES, TOO. AND AS IF THE THING WASN'T RICH ENOUGH, THEY STUFF IT WITH COLESLAW AND MAYONNAISE. TWO OF MY FAVORITE THINGS IN THE WHOLE WORLD-- KIDNEYS AND LIVERS... ESPECIALLY OVER THE CHARCOAL. IMAGINE A CROSS BETWEEN A CHEESE BLINTZ WITH PISTACHIO SYRUP ALL OVER IT AND CHEESECAKE AND THE EVIL CHILD THAT THE TWO OF THEM COULD MAKE TOGETHER. THIS WOULD BE IT. VOUCH FOR ME ON THIS, 'CAUSE THEY'RE NOT GONNA BELIEVE ME. THE MINUTE WE START TALKING ABOUT FOOD GIVE YOU MORE. ANOTHER TREAT AND ANOTHER TREAT AND ANOTHER TREAT. YES, IT'S ALWAYS... ALWAYS LIKE THAT, EVEN WITH US, THE LOCALS. MY GOD. EVERYTHING WAS SMOOTH SAILING, UNTIL WE GOT TO THIS CHEESE COUNTER, AND I GOT CURIOUS ABOUT THE CHEESE THAT'S DELIVERED HANDMADE BY DESERT BEDOUINS. IT'S VERY SALTY, HE'S SAYING. (Andrew) IT'S VERY SALTY. MMM. I-I TOOK TOO BIG A BITE. MY GOD. A LITTLE BIT SALTY? IT'S GOOD. I'M NOT SAYING IT'S NOT GOOD. IT'S CREAMY. IT'S FRESH. IT'S EXTRAORDINARY. BUT IT'S LIKE EATING A SALT LICK. WOW. TOMORROW I'LL HEAD OUT INTO THE DESERT, FOLLOWING ONE OF THOSE ANCIENT TRADING ROUTES IN ORDER TO GET HANDS-ON EXPERIENCE ABOUT WHERE THIS CHEESE COMES FROM AND ANOTHER EXPERIENCE I WASN'T COUNTING ON. WE RAN OUT OF GAS, AND AS YOU CAN SEE, IT'S A LITTLE HOT AND LONELY OUT HERE IN THE DESERT. ♪♪ TRAVELING EAST OF THE CITY OF DAMASCUS, YOU PLUNGE IMMEDIATELY INTO THE HARSH SYRIAN DESERT. AND IN THIS DESERT, YOU CAN FIND A WAY OF LIFE THAT'S ALMOST VANISHED IN THE REST OF THE WORLD. WE'RE FOLLOWING ONE OF THE ANCIENT TRADE ROUTES LINKING DAMASCUS WITH ANOTHER HUB CITY OF EAST-WEST TRADE-- PALMYRA, ABOUT 200 MILES TO THE EAST. I'D HATE TO BE DOING THIS TRIP BACK IN THE DAYS OF CAMEL CARAVANS. MIDDAY TEMPERATURES CAN HIT 110 DEGREES WITH NO SHADE OR SHELTER AS FAR AS THE EYE CAN SEE-- PRETTY HARSH IF YOU DIDN'T HAVE SAFE, RELIABLE, MODERN TRANSPORTATION-- RELIABLE AS LONG AS YOUR DRIVER REMEMBERS TO FILL IT UP BACK IN TOWN. WE RAN OUT OF GAS, AND AS YOU CAN SEE, IT'S A LITTLE HOT AND LONELY OUT HERE IN THE DESERT. AT THIS POINT, WE'RE MORE THAN 100 MILES OUT OF DAMASCUS IN THE MIDDLE OF THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE. TIMES LIKE THIS REMIND YOU, WITH ALL OUR CELL PHONES, WALKIE-TALKIES, AND OTHER GADGETS, THE FATES JUST AREN'T IMPRESSED. LET'S COVER THAT, THOUGH, BECAUSE IN THESE KIND OF EMERGENCY SITUATIONS, IT'S GOOD TO KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING. WHO'S THE FIRST PERSON THAT GETS EATEN IN THE GROUP? YEAH, SOUND GUY. SOUND GUY GOES DOWN. SOUND GUY-- SOUND GUY'S NEVER FIRST, NO. YOU'RE REALLY, REALLY-- YOU'RE EXPENDABLE. IN THE END, WE GOT SAVED BY THE SAME KIND OF NOMAD HOSPITALITY THAT'S PROTECTED TRAVELERS IN THIS DESERT FOR MILLENNIA. A GUY PASSING BY ON A MOTORCYCLE DROVE MILES OUT OF HIS WAY TO PICK UP A FEW GALLONS OF GAS AND BRING IT BACK TO US. AND WHAT REALLY SURPRISED OUR CREW-- THE MOST WE COULD GET HIM TO ACCEPT IN RETURN WAS A CAN OF SODA. THE GUY GOES AND GETS US GAS MILES AWAY AND WON'T TAKE THE MONEY, WON'T TAKE THE MONEY. IF I EVER WIN AN EMMY, I'M GONNA THANK THE--THE NAMELESS RIDER WHO CAME OUT OF THE TOWN OF PALMYRA TO SAVE US. THAT LITTLE BIT OF GASOLINE WAS ENOUGH TO TAKE US ABOUT 2,000 YEARS BACK IN TIME. THE CITY OF PALMYRA ONCE RIVALED DAMASCUS AS A RICH AND POWERFUL TRADING CENTER. BUT WHEN THE TRADE ROUTES SHIFTED ELSEWHERE, ANCIENT PALMYRA DRIED UP AND BECAME AN EMPTY RUIN. BUT BEYOND THE RUINS ARE PEOPLE STILL LIVING LIKE THEY DID IN PALMYRA'S GLORY DAYS. WHILE CITIES AND EMPIRES ROSE AND FELL, BEDOUIN TRIBESPEOPLE WANDERED IN THIS DESERT, HERDING SHEEP AND GOATS. WITH MODERN CITIES OFFERING EASIER WAYS TO MAKE A LIVING, THIS WAY OF LIFE IS EVAPORATING IN THE MIDDLE EAST AND AROUND THE WORLD. BUT WITH THE RIGHT CONNECTIONS, YOU CAN STILL TAP INTO IT. GHASSAN SALEH IS A BEDOUIN WHO'S MADE THE MOVE TO THE CITY. HE'S A CAMEL BREEDER WHOSE FRIENDS AND CLIENTS INCLUDE A FAMILY STILL LIVING THE TRADITIONAL NOMADIC LIFE IN THE DESERT THANK YOU. HERE, PEOPLE LIVE AND WORK AND EAT IN WAYS THAT ABRAHAM OF THE OLD TESTAMENT MIGHT RECOGNIZE-- MAYBE NOT CELL PHONES OR THE SATELLITE DISH POWERED BY A TRUCK BATTERY, BUT CERTAINLY THE TRADITIONAL HOSPITALITY. OH, FANTASTIC. IT'S CUSTOMARY TO ENTERTAIN THE GUEST WITH THE MOST LAVISH BANQUET POSSIBLE. THAT MEANS SACRIFICING ONE OF THE FAMILY'S GOATS. WHAT HAPPENS NEXT IS THE MOST IMPRESSIVE DISPLAY OF CUTTING SKILLS I'VE EVER SEEN OUTSIDE OF A HOSPITAL OPERATING ROOM. OOH, NICE. LOOK AT THAT-- LEAVING THE POM-POM OF THE TAIL ON. YOU REALLY CAN'T APPRECIATE THE GOOD SMELL OF A GOAT'S STOMACH COMING OUT OF A CARCASS UNTIL YOU'RE IN 120-DEGREE DESERT HEAT IN A BEDOUIN TENT. THAT MAY BE A "BIZARRE FOODS" RECORD. THAT'S ABOUT EIGHT AND HALF, NINE MINUTES. AND THAT GOAT HAS GONE FROM FULL "BAA" TO CLEANED AND READY TO GO. FROM HERE, THE WOMEN TAKE OVER. AND IT'LL TAKE ABOUT AN HOUR TO TURN THE GOAT INTO DINNER. SO IN TIME-HONORED TRADITION, WHILE THE WOMEN WORK, THE MEN RELAX AND PLAY-- JUST A TRADITIONAL WAY OUT HERE OF PASSING THE TIME AND ENTERTAINING A GUEST. YEAH, YOU'VE HEARD OF MARKY MARK AND THE FUNKY BUNCH OR SOME OF THE OTHER FAMOUS BOY BANDS OF THE '90s. THIS IS MY GROUP. THE OASIS KIDS. I'M PRODUCING THEM. AND I GET TO MEET... THE FAMILY PATRIARCH. THAT MEANS WELCOME. ISLAMIC LAW ALLOWS A MAN UP TO FOUR WIVES. AH, VERY NICE. SHAHADA AL HASAN HAS JUST ONE, BUT HIS SONS ALL HAVE MULTIPLES, WHICH EXPLAINS THE CROWD OF SMALL CHILDREN. I THOUGHT IT WAS ONE, TWO, AND THREE, STOMP. ONE, TWO, AND THREE, STOMP. THIS CAN KEEP MY HOSTS ENTERTAINED FOR A LONG TIME. BUT STICK AROUND, BECAUSE I WILL GET TO EAT EVENTUALLY. AND THEN I'LL GET UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH THE BUSINESS END OF THE FAMILY GOATS. BY THE WAY, I DIDN'T GET ANY MILK OUT OF THIS ONE, BUT SHE LIKED THE WAY I TOUCHED HER. ♪♪ THIS IS ONE WAY THE BEDOUIN MEN OF THE SYRIAN DESERT AMUSE THEMSELVES WHILE THE WOMEN ARE MAKING LUNCH. THEY HAVE THE GOAT BOILING IN A POT. AND THEY'RE BAKING BREAD ON SOMETHING THAT LOOKS LIKE AN UPSIDE-DOWN WOK. THIS IS A SAJ. JUST SPREAD THE DOUGH, AND WITHIN SECONDS, YOU GET A PAPER-THIN SHEET OF BEAUTIFUL, CRISPY BREAD. HERE IN THIS KITCHEN, THE OLDER GENERATION OF WOMEN IS RESPONSIBLE FOR ALL OF THE COOKING. THE YOUNGER GENERATION OF WOMEN IS RESPONSIBLE FOR THE PREPPING AND HELPING OUT, AND NARY THE TWAIN SHALL MEET. THE YOUNGER GIRLS ARE NOT ALLOWED TO JUMP UP AND START TENDING THE POT. EVERYTHING IS GENERATIONAL. THE GOAT'S ALMOST READY. THE CROWNING TOUCH IS A SOUR YOGURT SAUCE. (speaking indistinctly) FANTASTIC. BEAUTIFUL PIECE OF GOAT. (chuckling) AHLAN WA SAHLAN. THAT SOUR, ACIDIC FLAVOR THAT THE YOGURT HAS JUST CUTS THROUGH THE RICHNESS OF THE MEAT. TO SAY THIS IS RICH AND FILLING-- WELL, DO I REALLY NEED TO? BUT, YES, IT IS. HERE AS ALWAYS, ONE OF THE MOST FLAVORFUL BITES IS THE ANIMAL'S TONGUE, (sighs) A LITTLE TONGUE. HOW DO YOU SAY "TONGUE?" LISAN? LISAN? IT'S VERY GOOD. I LOVE THE TONGUE. MMM. MMM. OH. AHLAN WA SAHLAN! THE FAMILY'S HEAD HONCHO, SHAHADA AL HASAN, HAS REALLY WARMED UP TO ME SINCE I ARRIVED. THE ONE ARABIC WORD I'VE LEARNED ON THIS VISIT... IS THE ONE MEANING "WELCOME." THANK YOU, SIR. THIS IS THE TENT OF 1,000 WELCOMES. I'VE ONLY HAD ABOUT 980 SO FAR, AHLAN WA SAHLAN. AHLAN WA SAHLAN. (laughter) UNBELIEVABLE. THE SAUCE IS INCREDIBLE. AHLAN WA SAHLAN. 987. AHLAN WA SAHLAN. (speaking Arabic) AHLAN. AHLAN. 1,000. PLEASE LET HIM KNOW THE MOST IMPORTANT THING ONE CAN DO, IN MY OPINION, IS TO MAKE A GUEST HAPPY AND WELCOME WHILE THEY'RE UNDER YOUR ROOF, AND I HAVE FELT HAPPY AND WELCOME ALL DAY LONG. (speaking Arabic) AHLAN WA SAHLAN! OH, MY GOSH. YEP, TENT OF 1,000 WELCOMES-- 1,001 WELCOMES. (Andrew) ALL THIS HOSPITALITY IS SUPPORTED BY THE TRADITIONAL KIND OF PASTORAL BEDOUIN WEALTH-- TENDING FLOCKS AND HERDS. THE FAMILY RAISES GOATS AND DEPENDS ON THEIR MILK FOR FOOD AND PROFIT. ALL RIGHTY. EASY. THE WOMEN MILK THE GOATS TWICE A DAY. AS A FAMILY GUEST, I'VE OFFERED TO DO MY PART TO HELP OUT. OH, THERE WE GO. OH, NO, THERE WE GO. LET'S JUST SAY IT. THIS IS NOT THE MOST PLEASANT EXPERIENCE OF MY SYRIA VISIT. BY THE WAY, THE SMELL BACK HERE AT THIS PART OF THE SHEEP OUT IN THE DESERT-- FANTASTIC. THERE'S SOME NICE FECAL AND URINARY MATTING GOING ON HERE. ALL RIGHT, I GOT A LITTLE-- NOT BAD FOR A FIRST-TIMER. IT'S NOT GONNA WIN ANY MILKING AWARDS, BUT YOU KNOW... BUT WHEN PUSH COMES TO SHOVE, THIS IS TOO IMPORTANT A JOB TO LEAVE TO AMATEURS. NOT A LOT. YEAH, NOW I'M BEING KICKED OUT. YOU SEE THAT? I GAVE IT MY BEST SHOT. WHEN THE PROS DO THE WORK, IT'S SURPRISING HOW MUCH MILK 20 GOATS CAN PRODUCE. (Andrew) IT'S NICE--2 GALLONS. WHAT ELSE WE GOT? OOH, WE'RE GONNA DO 3? ALMOST 3 GALLONS. FRESH MILK DOESN'T GET ANY FRESHER THAN THIS. YEP, A LITTLE POOP, A LITTLE HAIR-- THAT GETS DISPOSED OF. THE MILK IS NOW-- YEAH, SQUEEZE THAT OUT. FAMILIES WILL USE THIS MILK TO MAKE THINGS LIKE CHEESE AND YOGURT. BUT NOMADS DO NOT LIVE BY CHEESE ALONE. TO GET THE OTHER ESSENTIALS, LIKE THE POTS AND PANS AND THE CELL PHONE, DESERT FAMILIES WILL LOAD UP THE CHEESE, OR SOMETIMES THE UNPROCESSED MILK CURDS, AND HEAD FOR THE NEAREST TRADING CENTER. SO I'M GOING TO FOLLOW THEM. ♪♪ FOR CENTURIES, THE GREAT TRADING CENTER IN THIS REGION HAS BEEN THE THIRD GREAT CITY OF ANCIENT SYRIA'S TRADE ROUTES--ALEPPO. ALEPPO IS NOT A CAPITAL CITY OR RELIGIOUS CENTER LIKE DAMASCUS, SO WHEN THE TRADE ROUTES FADED, THE MODERN WORLD PASSED IT BY, LEAVING ITS RICH HISTORY MOSTLY UNDISTURBED. THE MOSQUE HAS A MINARET THAT'S BEEN HERE FOR 1,000 YEARS. THE CITADEL THAT DEFENDED THE CITY AGAINST THE KNIGHTS OF THE CRUSADES STILL STANDS. AND MERCHANTS HAVE BEEN SELLING GOODS AT THIS MARKET OR SOUK FOR THE LAST 800 YEARS. NO ONE KNOWS ITS TWISTS AND TURNS BETTER THAN... HE'S A RESEARCHER WITH SYRIA'S ACADEMY OF GASTRONOMY AND THE MOST IMPRESSIVE EXPERT I HAVE MET WHEN IT COMES TO SYRIAN CUISINE. AND HE SEEMS TO BE CLOSE PERSONAL FRIENDS WITH EVERY 1 OF THE 5,000 VENDORS ANDREW, THIS IS MY FRIEND, ALSO. THIS IS PART OF PISTACHIO WITH ROSES COME IN. YEAH. THIS CRACKER... (speaking Arabic) (speaking Arabic) VERY GOOD. AMAZING. THIS IS PISTACHIO TOFFEE GLAZED WITH FRESH ROSE PETALS. WHATEVER YOU'RE CHARGING FOR THOSE, DOUBLE IT. (speaking Arabic) I'M STILL ON THE TRAIL OF THOSE MILK CURDS FROM THE DESERT. IT'S GOING TO BE LEADING ME TO A HANDS-ON EXPERIENCE AT ONE OF THE MOST REMARKABLE FOOD FACTORIES (indistinct conversation) AND FROM THERE, IT'S ON TO MOHAMMED THE CAMEL BUTCHER TO TRY SAUSAGE MADE FROM THE HUMP THEN ALL OF A SUDDEN, YOU GET THIS WASH OF HAY AND SWEAT AND DESERT. YES, TOTO, WE'RE NOT IN KANSAS ANYMORE. ♪♪ ♪♪ THIS IS CHEESE IN THE MAKING. JUST DAYS AGO, THIS STUFF WAS GOAT MILK IN THE SYRIAN DESERT. IT CURDLES THERE. AND THE CURDS COME HERE TO THE CITY OF ALEPPO AND THIS CHEESE SHOP. YEAH. A LITTLE BIT OF CONTEXT HERE-- BACK IN THE DESERT, THEY'LL SHAPE THE CURDS INTO SOLID BLOCKS, SQUEEZE OUT THE MOISTURE, AND LET THEM STAND A DAY OR TWO UNTIL THEY HARDEN INTO CHEESE. MOST FACTORY-MADE CHEESE IS MANUFACTURED THE SAME WAY-- SQUEEZE, SHAPE, ALLOW TO STAND AND AGE-- BUT NOT HERE IN ALEPPO. TAKING OUT THE MOISTURE THIS WAY MEANS INSTEAD OF A SOLID LUMP, THE CHEESE COMES OUT LIGHTER THAN AIR. BUT THAT'S JUST THE BEGINNING. COME ON BACK HERE AND LOOK AT WHAT THEY DO WITH THIS LIGHT, AIRY CHEESE. (indistinct conversation) (Andrew) CAN I TRY TO MAKE ONE? IT'S NOT EASY TO DO. BE CAREFUL. IT'S HOT. WHOA! IT'S VERY HOT. IT'S SO HOT THAT THE FAT INSIDE IS STILL COOKING, EVEN WHILE IT'S BEING TURNED AND TWISTED. (Hassan) YOU SEE THE SPEED? IT'S UNDER THE CONTROL. WOW. ALL RIGHT, THE GAUNTLET IS THROWN DOWN. THANK YOU. YEP. ALL RIGHT. OH, OKAY. (indistinct conversation) STOP? (cheering) I GOT BAILED OUT AT THE END. I MADE THIS CHEESE-- WELL, PART OF IT. FROM THIS TABLE, THE CHEESE GOES INTO A BUCKET OF COLD WATER TO STOP THE COOKING, THEN A BUCKET OF BRINE WHERE IT SITS A DAY OR AN HOUR, DEPENDING ON HOW YOU WANT IT TO TASTE. THIS IS FANTASTIC, FANTASTIC CHEESE-- SOUR, SHEEP-Y, JUST A LITTLE BIT SALTY. THIS REMINDS ME OF SOME OF THE BEST MOZZARELLA IN THE WHOLE WORLD, AND THE MANAGER, HE'S CHALLENGED ARE THERE ANY PEOPLE WHO CAN, UH, ARRANGE A MACHINE TO DO THIS? NO. THERE'S NO MACHINE. AND THAT'S THE BEAUTY OF IT-- 100% ARTISANAL, ALL DONE BY HAND. THE LOVE AND THE HAPPINESS COMING FROM THE HAND OF PEOPLE IN THE FOOD-- THAT'S WHY YOU MAKE VERY GOOD. THE MACHINE WILL GIVE YOU THE MACHINE ONLY GIVES YOU HEADACHES. I REALLY-- I AGREE WITH YOU 100%. IT DOESN'T MATTER WHAT COUNTRY YOU'RE IN OR WHAT YOU'RE EATING, IF IT'S MADE BY HAND, YOU CAN TASTE THE LOVE. (cheering) YEAH, YEAH. YEAH, YEAH. SEE NOW, BUT THIS DOES PROVE MY POINT. YOU WANT TO GET INVITED TO DINNER AT SOMEONE'S HOUSE? MAKE CHEESE. THIS IS THE SECRET TO WHAT MAKES EVEN THE SIMPLEST FOOD IN THIS TOWN TASTE SO GOOD. IT'S MADE FRESH EVERY DAY BY PEOPLE WHO TREAT THE WORK AS AN HONORED CRAFT. OH, MY GOSH. WOW, WOW, WOW, WOW. AMAZING. IN SYRIA, NOTHING IS MORE BASIC THAN BREAD. THEY EAT IT AT EVERY MEAL, AND A BAKERY LIKE THIS MAKES IT FRESH, NOT JUST EVERY DAY, BUT TWO OR THREE TIMES A DAY. OH, WOW, WOW, WOW, WOW. HOT PILLOW. SURE, IT'S AN ASSEMBLY LINE, BUT THE MACHINERY COULD NOT BE MORE SIMPLE-- FRESH DOUGH MOVING ON A CONVEYOR PERFECTLY TIMED TO TOAST IT JUST ENOUGH, BUT NO MORE. THIS IS INCREDIBLE. I MEAN, IN AN ANCIENT BUILDING WITH A VAULTED CEILING, THERE'S THIS NETWORK OF MACHINES THAT CHURNS OUT THIS STUFF... YEAH... (speaking indistinctly) IT IS. IT IS. THIS STUFF IS SO GOOD, IT MAKES YOU WANT TO CRY, I MEAN, SERIOUSLY. MMM. YOU SEE? ONE OF THE GREAT THINGS ABOUT EXPLORING A PLACE LIKE ALEPPO IS MAKING WONDERFUL DISCOVERIES IN THE MOST ORDINARY- LOOKING PLACES, LIKE THIS LITTLE HOLE IN THE WALL RIGHT ACROSS THE STREET FROM THE BAKERY. IT'S BEEN HERE FOR ABOUT THE LAST 115 YEARS. BUT THE LOCALS LINE UP HERE EVERY MORNING FOR THE BEST BREAKFAST IN TOWN-- YEP, THIS STUFF. LOOKS LIKE YESTERDAY'S LEFTOVERS ALL DUMPED TOGETHER IN A BOWL-- THIS IS FUL, A STEW OF FAVA BEANS COOKED UNTIL THE BEANS BREAK DOWN, SWIMMING IN VIBRANT POOLS OF SYRIAN OLIVE OIL. LOOK AT HOW THICK-- AND ALL OF THE OLIVE OIL SOLIDS. THAT'S GLORIOUS. SO THIS IS REALLY A WORKING-CLASS BEAN SOUP MEANT TO KEEP YOU GOING ALL DAY LONG. ALL RIGHT, MY FIRST TASTE BUT WHAT YOU DON'T SEE ARE THE LEMONS, ONIONS, SESAME PASTE TURNING THIS ONE-NOTE COMFORT FOOD INTO A SYMPHONY. YES... (speaking indistinctly) (laughing) CREAMY, SALTY, LEMONY-- THIS MAY BE THE BEST BEAN DISH I'VE EVER EATEN IN MY LIFE. SO INSIDE THIS LITTLE PLACE IS THE VERY BEST OF SIMPLE, WORKING-CLASS, SYRIAN FOOD. BEHIND THIS DOOR IS THE RAW MATERIAL FOR A MEAL YOU JUST DON'T FIND EVERY DAY, NOT EVEN IN SYRIA. CAMEL-- THE OTHER WHITE MEAT. ONE ORDER OF FRESH CAMEL HUMP COMING UP. WHOOP, LOOK OUT. ♪♪ A CAMEL HAS GOT TO BE ONE OF THE MOST VERSATILE ANIMALS ON EARTH. FOR MILLENNIA, IT'S CARRIED PEOPLE AND GOODS ACROSS DESERTS AND MOUNTAINS THAT NO HORSE, MULE, OR 4-WHEEL DRIVE COULD GO. ON TOP OF ALL THAT, IT CAN BE USED FOR FOOD. AND THE HUMP THAT'S THEIR MOST UNIQUE CHARACTERISTIC CAN BECOME PART OF A SYRIAN DELICACY. HASSAN IS BRINGING ME TO ONE OF THE BEST-KNOWN CAMEL BUTCHERS IN THE CITY OF ALEPPO AT THE EDGE OF TOWN, WHERE THE CAMELS ARE PENNED UP AND FED LIKE ANY OTHER DOMESTIC LIVESTOCK. WOW. THIS IS THE HOME AND SLAUGHTERHOUSE OF... HE'S BEEN A BUTCHER FOR ABOUT 35 YEARS. (Hassan) ANDREW, PLEASE, FAR AWAY. (camel bleating) WHAT HAPPENS NEXT IS VERY HARD TO WATCH, AND YOU MAY WANT TO LOOK AWAY. ISLAMIC LAW REQUIRES DRAINING BLOOD FROM AN ANIMAL BEFORE EATING THE MEAT. A KNIFE TO THE JUGULAR WILL DO THAT, AND SHOULD BE A RELATIVELY QUICK AND PAINLESS WAY TO DISPATCH AN ANIMAL. THAT'S NOT WHAT HAPPENED HERE. (man shouting in Arabic) KINDA CRAZY, BUT I WILL SAY, I THINK IT'S IMPORTANT-- IF YOU'RE GONNA BE A MEAT-EATER, YOU SHOULD BE CONNECTED TO YOUR FOOD SOURCE. HASSAN'S SAYING A PRAYER. THAT'S NICE. IN OUR HOUSE, MY WIFE ALWAYS OFFERS A PRAYER BEFORE DINNER THAT INCLUDES SOMETHING TO THE HANDS THAT CREATED THE FOOD AND THE ANIMALS THAT GAVE THEMSELVES FOR IT. IT'S A NICE FEELING TO REMEMBER. IT MAKES IT A LITTLE EASIER TO STAND HERE AND DO THIS. I CAN TELL YOU THAT. IT'S NOT JUST THE BLOOD THAT MAKES THIS HARD. THERE'S A WEIRD VIBE TO THIS PLACE. FRANKLY, IT'S DOWNRIGHT FRIGHTENING. THE GREAT PART IS IT'S 10:30 IN THE MORNING, AND HALF THESE GUYS ARE PRETTY HAMMERED, WHICH CONSIDERING THE FACT THEY ALL HAVE PRETTY SHARP KNIVES... YOU KNOW, IT'S AT TIMES LIKE THIS THAT I SAY TO MYSELF, ANDREW, HOW'D YOU WIND UP DOING THIS JOB? ON ONE SIDE OF ME, I'VE GOT THE CRAZIEST SON OF A GUN IN ALL OF SYRIA. AND THEN ON THE OTHER SIDE OF ME, I HAVE THIS BEAUTIFUL ANIMAL THAT GAVE ITS LIFE. AND BEHIND ME, THE-- THE CAMEL BUTCHERS OF ALEPPO. UNION LOCAL NUMBER 75J. THIS IS NUTS. BUT WHEN MOHAMMED GOES TO WORK WITH HIS KNIFE, THERE'S NO CRAZINESS. HIS WORK FORCE IS A LITTLE STRANGE, BUT THIS GUY IS A PRO. THE BIGGEST CUT OF MEAT IS THE HUMP. NO, THERE'S NO WATER IN IT. THIS IS ABOUT 80 POUNDS OF CAMEL FAT. A CAMEL CAN GO WEEKS WITHOUT EATING, BECAUSE ITS BODY IS BURNING THIS FAT FOR FUEL. MOHAMMED'S LOADING IT UP ON THE TRUCK FOR A TRIP ACROSS TOWN TO HIS SHOP IN THE ALEPPO SOUK. (man speaking Arabic) (shouting indistinctly) BY THE TIME WE FIND OUR WAY TO MOHAMMED'S MEAT STALL, HE AND HIS TEAM ARE TURNING THIS MORNING'S CAMEL INTO THIS AFTERNOON'S LUNCH. THE ORGANS GO INTO THE SAUTé PAN. LIVER AND THE TESTICLES. THE FAT FROM THE CAMEL HUMP, ALONG WITH SOME MUSCLE AND SHEEP FAT, GOES INTO THE MEAT GRINDER WITH SOME EXTRA INGREDIENTS TO MAKE CAMEL KEBABS. BUT HERE'S HOW IT WORKS IN THE SOUK. ONE STALL SELLS THE RAW MEAT. ANOTHER ONE MAKES AND GRILLS THE KEBABS. WE TOOK THE GROUND CAMEL MEAT DOWN HERE-- A COUPLE OF KILO'S WORTH-- BROUGHT IT TO THIS GUY WHO SHAPED IT ONTO KEBABS, AND HE'S GRILLING IT RIGHT NOW OVER THE COALS. AND THEN HE'LL HAND IT BACK TO US. AND WE'LL TRUCK IT ON BACK DOWN AND FEED ALL THE BUTCHERS. THANK YOU VERY MUCH. THANK YOU. IT'S BEAUTIFUL. THAT'S SOME GRILLED CAMEL. AH, BEAUTIFUL. (speaking Arabic) HE'S ON THE PHONE WITH HIS STOCKBROKER. ACTUALLY, IT'S THE WIFE CHECKING UP ON HIM. IT'S A CULTURAL UNIVERSAL. OH, VERY NICE. GROUND MEAT, LIVER, THE BALLS--FANTASTIC. A LITTLE CAMEL SAUSAGE. (indistinct conversation) MMM, MMM. WOW. YOU WOULD NEVER KNOW THAT YOU WEREN'T EATING BEEF-- SOLID, BEAUTIFUL BOVINE GOODNESS, DESPITE THE FACT THAT THIS ISN'T COW. THE CAMEL TASTES VERY, VERY SWEET. MMM. THE FAT FROM THE CAMEL HUMP IS EXTREMELY CLEAN-- SNOW WHITE, PURE FAT, REALLY DOES A NICE JOB IN THERE. AND HERE-- I'LL TRY THE LIVER AND THE TESTICLES. AND THIS IS OF THE CAMEL THAT WE JUST KILLED YES, YES. THAT ALMOST HAS A-A NUTTY, SWEET TASTE AS YOU'RE CHEWING IT, AND THEN ALL OF A SUDDEN, YOU GET THIS WASH OF HAY AND SWEAT AND DESERT. (speaking indistinctly) YOU LIKE IT? (laughing) ONLY THE KEBAB. I LIKE THAT. OH, NO, NO, NO, I KNOW THIS GAME. COOK THE FOOD AND MAKE THE CRAZY AMERICAN EAT IT. UNBELIEVABLE. THE LIVER ON THE CAMEL IS ABOUT AS IRON-Y AND HARD-- THERE'S SO LITTLE FAT IN THAT CAMEL'S LIVER THAT IT'S LIKE EATING BIRD PELLETS. IT'S--THAT'S PRETTY HARD-CORE. IT'S STRONG. THAT'S GAMEY. THAT'S RICH. ISN'T IT STRONG? YEAH. THE TEXTURE COMING STRONG. THE TEXTURE IS COMING STRONG. ABSOLUTELY. YOU WANT TO TRY SOME CAMEL? HAVE SOME CAMEL. THIS DAY DIDN'T START OUT VERY WELL. THE ATMOSPHERE IN THAT BLOOD-STAINED COURTYARD WAS SCARY AT TIMES. BUT NOW I'M SHARING A MEAL WITH SOME OF THESE SAME PEOPLE, AND I'M REMINDED ONCE AGAIN HOW FOOD CAN WORK TO BRING PEOPLE TOGETHER. IT'S IMPOSSIBLE TO DISLIKE SOMEBODY THAT YOU SHARE A GOOD MEAL WITH. IMPOSSIBLE. THERE YOU GO, MY FRIEND. THANK YOU. SO HOPEFULLY NEXT TIME THESE GUYS ARE WATCHING THE EVENING NEWS, AND SOMEBODY SAYS SOMETHING MAYBE LESS COMPLIMENTARY ABOUT MY COUNTRY THAN THEY WOULD LIKE, RIGHT. THAT THEY SHARED A MEAL WITH. BEFORE I LEAVE THIS COUNTRY, I WANT A TASTE OF THE NEW SYRIA, AND THAT MEANS A RETURN TO DAMASCUS AND A NIGHT IN THE NEW CITY, WHERE I'LL GET TO TASTE SOME OF THE DISHES THAT MADE THIS COUNTRY FAMOUS AND RUN INTO THE MOST OFF-PUTTING FOOD OF THIS ENTIRE VISIT. ANYTHING IN THE BROWNISH-GREEN FAMILY JUST SHOULD NOT BE PART OF A COOKED FOOT-- JUST SHOULDN'T. READY TO EMBARK ON YOUR OWN BIZARRE JOURNEY? CHECK OUT MY TRAVEL GUIDES AND VIDEO COUNTDOWNS, AND START PLANNING YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE. JUST LOG ON TO travelchannel.com. ♪♪ WE'RE FINISHING THIS EXPLORATION OF SYRIA WHERE WE BEGAN-- BACK IN DAMASCUS. DURING THIS WHOLE VISIT TO SYRIA, I'VE HAD LITTLE OR NO DIRECT ENCOUNTER WITH ISLAM. THAT'S ABOUT TO CHANGE. FOR MUSLIMS, THE UMAYYAD MOSQUE IS ONE OF THE HOLIEST PLACES ON EARTH. IT'S THE OLDEST MOSQUE IN ISLAM. THE STRUCTURE HAS CHANGED OVER TIME, BUT SOME OF THESE MINARETS WENT UP WITHIN A CENTURY OF THE PROPHET MUHAMMAD'S DEATH. I FEEL MORE CONSPICUOUS AND MORE OUT OF PLACE THAN AT ANY TIME SINCE I'VE ARRIVED. SO I'VE ASKED MY FRIEND ROULA NASRALLA SO NOW SHOES OFF, RIGHT? (Roula) YEAH, WE HAVE TO TAKE OFF OUR SHOES. YOU READY? JUST A SECOND--I HAVE TO-- I HAVE TO COVER MYSELF. NOW DO I NEED TO BE COVERED UP AT ALL, NO, YOU'RE FINE LIKE THAT. I JUST NEED TO COVER MYSELF. YEAH, COOL. COVER MY HAIR, AS WELL. IT'S HUGE. ABSOLUTELY AMAZING. YEAH, IT'S AMAZING FOR ME, AS WELL. BEFORE MOVING FROM THE COURTYARD TO THE PRAYER HALLS, EVERYONE MUST PERFORM A RITUAL PURIFICATION AT THE SAME FOUNTAIN WORSHIPPERS HAVE USED FOR CENTURIES. AND THEN TRADITION DEMANDS THAT MEN AND WOMEN WORSHIP SEPARATELY. WHEN WE'RE PRAYING, YOU HAVE TO BE WITH THE MEN. (man chanting in Arabic) AS A VISITOR, AN OUTSIDER, I'M FEELING A DEEP RESPECT AND A LITTLE BIT OF CONFUSION. WHAT DO YOU DO IN ONE OF THE MOST HOLY SITES IN ALL OF THE ISLAMIC WORLD? WELL, YOU TAKE A PRIVATE MOMENT. YOU CONNECT WITH YOUR OWN VERSION OF A POWER GREATER THAN YOURSELF, WHATEVER THAT IS. TAKE A LITTLE SPIRITUAL BREATHER. AND THEN TAKE A WALK AROUND AND SEE WHAT'S GOING ON. THIS IS STUNNING. HOW OLD IS THIS BUILDING? IT'S, LIKE, 3,000 YEARS OLD. ALMOST 1,000 YEARS BEFORE CHRIST, THIS WAS A SITE FOR WORSHIPPING SOME OF THE PAGAN GODS NAMED IN THE OLD TESTAMENT. SINCE THEN, IT'S BEEN A ROMAN TEMPLE, A CHRISTIAN CHURCH, AND FOR ABOUT THE LAST 1,400 YEARS, A MOSQUE. THIS IS SACRED GROUND THAT'S A MONUMENT TO HUMAN DIVERSITY. THE MORE WE UNDERSTAND EACH OTHER, THE LESS WE TALK ABOUT THE THINGS YEAH. I THINK THESE KIND OF THINGS UNITE US TOGETHER. SO THANK YOU FOR BRINGING ME HERE. THE MOSQUE, LIKE THE MARKET, IS WITHIN THE OLD CITY OF DAMASCUS, BUT THERE'S ANOTHER DAMASCUS BEYOND THE OLD CITY'S WALLS. THEY CALL THIS THE NEW CITY. IT SPRAWLS FOR MILES BEYOND THE OLD ONE. WHEN THE SUN GOES DOWN AND THE DAY'S WORK AND THE SUN'S HEAT ARE OVER, THE NEW CITY REALLY COMES TO LIFE. AND ONE OF THE LIVELIEST SPOTS IS HERE. SHARIYA AL-MIDAN IS A STREET NEAR THE BORDER BETWEEN THE OLD AND NEW CITIES. IT DOESN'T MAKE IT ONTO MOST TOURIST ITINERARIES, BUT THIS IS WHERE DAMASCUS LIKES TO EAT, ESPECIALLY YOUNG DAMASCUS. (indistinct conversation) AND THE MOST POPULAR FAST FOOD ON THIS STREET IS SHAWARMA. HOW MANY CHICKEN DO YOU THINK THEY HAVE THERE? (Andrew) WELL, ON THE BOTTOM ARE ALL THE THIGHS AND LEGS. ON THE TOP ARE ALL THE ***. I'M GONNA SAY 200? WOW. SHAWARMA IS SPICED MEAT, TURNING CONSTANTLY ON A SPIT THAT'S SHAVED OFF INTO THIS FABULOUS FLATBREAD. MMM. MMM. IT'S TANGY. IT'S SALTY. YEAH. THAT'S INSANE. THEY CRISP THE SANDWICHES ON A GRIDDLE... ONCE THEY MAKE 'EM, 'CAUSE THE BREAD IS CRISPY DELICIOUS. OKAY. I'M NEVER GONNA MAKE IT DOWN THE END OF FOOD STREET HERE. AT THE END OF AL-MIDAN, WHERE THE NEON STARTS FLICKERING OUT, YOU CAN REALLY GET A TASTE OF OLD DAMASCUS. AL MAHABA CAFé MAKES FOOD THAT'S NOT YOUNG OR HIP, BUT CAN BE A LITTLE SCARY. THEY SERVE SHEEP. THAT'S CODE FOR OLD LAMB, COOKED UP HEAD TO FOOT. THE FEET ARE BOILED IN A BROTH OF LEMON AND SPICES, AND THE BROTH IS SERVED UP AS A SOUP. FOR ME, THIS IS ACTUALLY A FIRST-- SHEEP FOOT SOUP. YEAH? HOW--HOW DO YOU KNOW? THE-- KIND OF. HERE'S THE THING. IT'S GOT THAT ROAST-Y, UGH. YOU KNOW, BONY, STRONG FLAVOR TO IT. ALL RIGHT, SO-- YEAH, WHAT IS THIS? IT LOOKS LIKE A STEAMED LITTLE SMALL INTESTINE. WOW. I THINK IT HAS CRACKED WHEAT PUMPED INTO IT. THIS LOOKS HORRIFIC, LIKE SOME SORT OF DR. FRANKENSTEIN FOOD, BUT IT'S NOT AT ALL. IT TASTES SO CLEAN AND JUST FAINTLY LAMB-Y. ALL THIS WHILE, THIS HAS BEEN LYING IN WAIT. HERE ARE THE FEET SMOTHERED IN YOGURT. SO HERE'S THE UNSETTLING THING. IF THE BROTH TASTED AS STRONG AND OFF-PUTTING AS IT DID, I-I DON'T EVEN WANT TO THINK... WHOO-HOO, I'M SO EXCITED FOR YOU TO TRY IT. I THINK-- OH, MY GOODNESS. NOW I'M NOT A PODIATRIST. I JUST PLAY ONE ON TELEVISION. BUT YOU CAN SEE HERE ALL THE TENDON AND CONNECTIVE TISSUE THAT RUNS UP THE BACK OF THE ANKLE TO ALLOW IT TO MOVE. (clacking) RIGHT THERE. AND RIGHT HERE-- TOENAILS. I MEAN, THE COLOR BROWNISH-GREEN... ANYTHING IN THE BROWNISH-GREEN FAMILY JUST SHOULD NOT BE PART OF A COOKED FOOT-- JUST SHOULDN'T. OH, YEAH. OH, YEAH. (laughing) WHOO. WHEREVER THAT SHEEP WAS LIVING FOR TWO OR THREE YEARS, I CAN TASTE EVERY PIECE OF ITS HOME TURF IN BETWEEN ITS TOES. YEAH. IT WOULDN'T BE RIGHT TO FINISH MY LAST MEAL IN SYRIA WITH A BAD TASTE IN MY MOUTH. FORTUNATELY, AL-MIDAN OFFERS PLENTY OF THAT SYRIAN FAVORITE-- PISTACHIO PASTRY. (speaking Arabic) 200 YEARS. 200 YEARS, IS THAT ALL? YEAH. TRY TO TOUCH THEM IF YOU WANT. OH! I CAN'T BELIEVE I FELL FOR THAT. THAT'S THE RIGHT WAY TO FINISH MY VISIT TO SYRIA. REMEMBER WHEN I SAID AT THE BEGINNING OF THIS VISIT I CAME HERE FEELING A LITTLE TWINGE OF ANXIETY, WONDERING WHAT KIND OF WELCOME AN AMERICAN VISITOR MIGHT GET? WELL, IT DIDN'T TAKE LONG TO FIND OUT. I LOVE YOU SO MUCH. I WISH YOU A VERY NICE DAY. GOOD JOB. VENDORS DIDN'T WANT TO TAKE OUR MONEY. YES, YES, YES, YES, YES. YES, YES, YES. AND ONE OF MY MOST VIVID MEMORIES WAS WHEN WE RAN OUT OF GAS IN THE DESERT, AND A COMPLETE STRANGER ON A MOTORCYCLE WENT MILES OUT OF HIS WAY TO BRING US SOME AND REFUSED TO TAKE A DIME FOR IT. EVERYWHERE WE WENT, ON-CAMERA AND OFF, WE WERE MET WITH KINDNESS AND RESPECT. I'M NOT QUALIFIED TO TALK ABOUT INTERNATIONAL POLITICS, BUT MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE WITH THE PEOPLE OF SYRIA WAS ONE OF THE WARMEST, FRIENDLIEST, AND FUNNIEST OF ANY PLACE I'VE EVER VISITED. AND THE FOOD'S PRETTY AMAZING, TOO. SO NEXT TIME YOU'RE IN SYRIA, REMEMBER, IF IT LOOKS GOOD, EAT IT. Closed Captions provided by Scripps Networks, LLC. Captioned by Closed Captioning Services, Inc.