Tip:
Highlight text to annotate it
X
Our journey begins at Mizen Head in the south-west corner of Ireland. We then follow the rugged
coastline past towers and lighthouses before turning inland to the world famous Blarney
Castle, where kissing a stone is said to bring luck.
To the south is Cork, the second largest city in the republic, which sits at the head of
one of the world's largest natural harbours. Inland, and across the Knockmealdown Mountains,
are a remarkable group of medieval buildings and abbey on the Rock of Cashel. We then head
south-east down the River Suir to Waterford, once the home of crystal glass making.
Along the coast is Wexford where we turn north towards the Wicklow Mountains and our final
destination at one of Ireland's most beautiful estates -- Powerscourt.
Ireland is famous for its changeable weather, and on the west coast sea mists can roll in
very quickly making navigation treacherous.
High seas pound the rocks, and ships rounding the coast need to keep a wide berth, which
is why on the south-west tip of Ireland is Mizen Head signal and weather station. It
sits on the end of a narrow peninsula where the tides and currents around the coastline
meet the mighty Atlantic Ocean, which can create mountainous seas.
Out at sea and out of sight today is the Fastnet Lighthouse. The first tower was built in the
1850's as a result of an American liner hitting the rocks with the loss of 92 lives.
In the early 1900's it was decided to replace the tower and also build a fog signal station
here at Mizen Head -- it actually sits on a small island called Cloghane. In really
bad fog the keeper would also fire an explosive charge at three minute intervals. In the 1970's
the fog signal station was discontinued when sonar and satellite navigation became widely
available.
So today Mizen Head is a visitor attraction, with a museum and a dramatic walk across the
arched bridge to the weather station.
Visitors come and marvel at the spectacular sight of the rocks and pounding seas in almost
any weather condition.
As we fly east the mist begins to clear and the sun slowly breaks through to reveal a
beautiful coastline.
And on the cliffs are old castles, which defended the coast from potential invaders.
In fine weather and blue seas the Carbery Hundred Isles stand out in Long Island Bay
and Roaring water Bay. The Isles are now home to a number of holiday houses and have also
become a popular place for scuba diving due to the number of wrecks in the area including
a World War Two German U Boat.
At the end of Roaringwater Bay is Kilcoe Castle built around 1450 on a two acre island. It
proved difficult to capture and so was in fact the very last castle in the area to fall
to the English in 1603.
In the 1990's it was bought and restored at great cost by the actor Jeremy Irons. Like
many castles of this date it would have quite probably been rendered and then painted.
Ireland is a land of myths and legends and across the country are a number of prehistory
sites going back thousands of years. Close to the coast is the Dromberg Stone Circle.
In a nine metre diameter seventeen closely spaced stones once completed a circle. Today
thirteen survive. The most westerly stone is known as a long recumbent.
To one side of the circle are the ruins of two pre-historic huts, which once had timber
roofs.
The site was excavated and restored in 1958, and during this period a pot was found in
the centre of the circle, containing the remains of a young person wrapped in a thick cloth.
Carbon dating suggests that the site was still active around 900bc.
The weather in Ireland is dominated by the Atlantic. Here towards the west of the country
warm wet air streams in from the sea, and it is quite possible that it will rain two
days out of three at certain times of the year.
All this rainfall creates lush green grass and gives Ireland its depiction as the Emerald
Isle, and it also gives rise to some wonderful rainbows.
One of the most visited sites in Ireland is Blarney Castle built in the 15th century.
But its attraction lies not in the fortress itself, but in one of its stones -- the Stone
of Eloquence, built into the battlements of the castle.
It is said that if you kiss it you will never be lost for words again and have the gift
of eloquence. Needless to say millions have people have kissed the Blarney Stone over
the years and they have come from around the world.
However, the act of kissing the stone requires lying down on your back, with someone holding
your legs, and then hanging upside down over a sheer drop in order to reach it.
Today there are iron railings to protect anyone attempting it, but in the past there was a
real risk to life and limb. Indeed in a Sherlock Holmes story a man falls to his death, because
it is discovered that his boots were greased and therefore slipped through the hands of
the person holding him.
On the banks of the River Lee is Cork, the principal city in the county of the same name,
with a population of roughly 120,000 people. It was founded back in the 6th century as
a monastic settlement by St Finbar, the first bishop of Cork, and only became urbanised
in the 10th century when the Vikings arrived and founded a port, which became an important
part of their global trading network, along with Dublin to the north, which they also
founded.
As a seafaring people the Vikings understood the importance of building harbours in the
best places, and at Cork it was ideal, as it was inland enough to be sheltered from
the sea, and also an attack, yet close enough to one to one of the greatest natural harbours
in the world.
On the east side of the city is the container port and on the opposite bank is a small 17th
century castle, which was not built for defence but as a surprise gift from a wife, Anastasia
ArchDeacon to her returning soldier husband, John, after years of fighting on the Continent.
Legend has it that when he saw the new castle he fired a cannon ball at it thinking it must
have been built by an enemy.
The castle overlooks the River Lee where it opens up into Lough Mahon, which is one of
the most important bird habitats in the harbour.
And on the far side at Passage West the Lough narrows and for about two miles becomes the
River Lee again.
In 1993 a new ferry service began across the river linking Cork to the harbour town of
Cobh. The two ferries can carry 27 cars and two hundred passengers.
Most of the shipyards along the river have now gone but a few still remain to carry on
a tradition of ship building that has lasted for centuries.
At this point the River Lee opens out to Lower Cork Harbour, which is a vast natural deep
water harbour. It is claimed to be the world's second largest after Sydney in Australia.
The main town around the harbour is Cobh, which used to be known as Queenstown before
the Republic of Ireland was founded in 1919.
This is place of poignant memories, where hundreds of thousands of poor and hungry people
left for the United States in the 1840's, especially during the Irish famine years.
They left from this quay hoping to build a new life across the ocean. Many succeeded,
but many also died at sea in the terrible conditions.
And it was also from this quay that the Titanic left to cross the Atlantic on her fateful
maiden voyage in 1912.
For two hundred years old these pastel coloured houses have seen great changes from the age
of sail to the age of steam and on to the great liners of the 1930's. And today the
deep water quay welcomes a new generation of ships whose passengers will be sure to
enjoy a bit of Irish hospitality.
Ships of all types entering or leaving a large harbour have to make use, under maritime law,
of an experienced pilot. It is there local knowledge of the harbour that the captain
of a ship will listen to very carefully. Stopping distance for a large modern container ship
can be measured in miles and a slight error of judgement can cause millions of dollars
in damage.
The pilot boat will pull alongside a moving ship and the pilot will climb aboard. After
the ship has passed the last buoy going out to sea he will go back to his own boat and
be taken back to land, or perhaps, to another ship waiting to come into the harbour.
A harbour of this importance needed to be defended and the British, who prior to 1919
occupied Ireland, built forts on some of the islands, like here on Spike Island, as well
as at the narrow harbour entrance.
On the west side is Fort Camden, which was begun in the 1780's and enlarged during the
1860's.
And opposite is Fort Carlisle, which was also enlarged in the 1860's. Both these forts were
eventually presented to the new Irish government in 1938.
The two forts overlook Crosshaven, a small village just inside the harbour. It is famous
for being the present home of the Royal Cork Yacht Club, which was established back in
1720, and is the oldest yacht club in the world.
At the harbour entrance lies Roches Point Light. In 1928 the transatlantic liner, Celtic,
was swept onto the rocks beside the lighthouse. During the salvage her cargo of grain and
fruit went overboard. Thousands of apples floated into Cork harbour and up the creeks
and rivers, with many being sold as 'Celtic Apples' for a penny-a-piece.
Heading north-east across lush green countryside we pass one of the finest buildings in Ireland
- Lismore Castle. It can be privately rented for special occasions, and can accommodate
up to twenty seven guests. A spectacular dinner can be held for many more people in the great
hall of a castle that dates back to 1170.
You cannot travel very far in Ireland without coming across some sort of religious building,
whether a church, cathedral or monastery and many of them will be dedicated to the country's
patron saint -- St Patrick. Religion has played an important part in the history of Ireland.
At Cloncoulty in the county of South Tipperary is one of the most historic sites in Ireland
and a major Christian centre - the Rock of Cashel.
This unique complex of buildings is one of the most remarkable collections of Celtic
art and medieval architecture to be found anywhere in Europe.
Very little remains from the time before the Norman invasion in the 11th century and the
oldest recognisable building is the round tower, which dates from 1100.
Cormac's Chapel, named after King Cormac MacCartaigh, was built in 1127 and is now dwarfed by the
cathedral, which was started a hundred years later.
On the left is the Hall of the Vicars Choral, which is where lay members and sometime clergy
lived. They were appointed to chant during services.
In 1647, Parliamentary Protestant forces from England sacked the whole site and massacred
not only the troops who were guarding it but also the Roman Catholic clergy. The wonderful
treasures inside were either looted or smashed to pieces.
During the 18th century the main roof of the cathedral was removed and the whole site left
as ruin.
Today the Rock of Cashel is a major tourist attraction.
To the south-east is the River Suir, which runs down to the Atlantic at Waterford. This
is one of the major fishing rivers in Ireland and holds the record for a salmon taken on
a fly in 1874. It weighed 26kg. Today the salmon stocks have declined, but the river
holds a plentiful supply of brown trout.
This is Curraghmore House. The old original castle is encased inside the main building,
which was constructed in the 19th century. The impressive approach is flanked by 18th
century buildings.
The house is home to the 8th Marquis of Waterford whose Norman ancestors arrived in Ireland
in about 1170.
The large formal gardens that surround Curraghmore, as well as the woodland walks are open to
the public and the house is available for group tours.
Waterford is the oldest city in Ireland, founded as a settlement by the Vikings back in 853.
The city has seen its fair share of terror when the protestant English besieged and took
it in 1650 after Waterford remained Catholic and had declared independence.
On the waterfront is Reginald's Tower which was built by the Vikings and is the oldest
urban building in Ireland.
However, it is for glass that the city is most famous - Waterford Crystal. It was first
produced in 1783. Over the years the company changed hands several times until finally
the new corporation, which by now had factories around the world, closed the operation in
Waterford in 2009.
So, after two hundred years of fine glass making there is now just a museum.
Just outside the city the River Suir divides around Little Island and Waterford Castle.
With a history going back to the 11th century it was largely rebuilt in the 19th around
the old tower, which sits in the middle of the building. Today, this private island,
with its own ferry, is a luxury hotel and golf course.
At Ballyhack there is a ferry service across the river mouth to Passage East. With no bridge
downstream from Waterford this has been an important crossing point for centuries. And
the present ferry operates 120 crossings a day.
Duncannon Fort was built in 1588 in the expectation of an attack by the Spanish Armada. Its strategic
position, at the mouth of the River Suir, meant that it was upgraded over the centuries,
right up to Irish Independence when it was set on fire and then lay in ruins until it
was brought back to life during the Second World War. Today it is open to the public
and managed by the local council.
The River Suir empties into the Celtic Sea where we head east along the coast into the
county of Wexford.
The town of Wexford is on the south-eastern tip of Ireland and built on the west side
of the River Slaney. This is another town founded by the Vikings and named Veisafjordr,
inlet of the mud flats.
Wexford's position had made it an ideal sea port until the constant dredging of the shifting
sands in the 20th century made it uneconomic.
However, the town rebuilt the long harbour quay and turned itself into a cultural centre,
with particular focus on opera. In 1951 the Wexford Opera Festival began and has become
such a success over the years that a new opera house was built in 2008.
The shifting sands may make it difficult for navigation but it does make the entrance into
Wexford Harbour a beautiful stretch of coastline.
Our journey now heads north and into the Wicklow Mountains.
This range forms the largest continuous upland area in Ireland and several river systems
have their source here including the Liffey, which flows north to Dublin.
For centuries the mountains had been a place for rebels to hide out until the Wicklow Military
Road was built in the 19th century and the mountains began to attract tourists.
In the valley of the two lakes is an ancient monastery -- Glendalough.
In fact it is more of a monastic city with a number of surviving religious buildings,
including several early churches, a high round tower, lay buildings and various sites associated
with St Kevin, who founded the original monastery. He was a hermit monk who died around the year
618.
In its heyday Glandalough also had guest houses, monastic cells, workshops, an infirmary and
farm buildings. But by the 13th century it was in decline and English forces put paid
to it in 1398 leaving it in ruins except for the round tower. This was used as a grain
store as well as a place of safety.
But even in this state the site exerts a powerful presence on all who visit this beautiful valley.
One of the reasons that the Wicklow Mountains look the way they do is partly due to the
local Cheviot breed of sheep which roam across the landscape eating the grass and other vegetation
keeping it all neat and trim.
Today the Wicklow Mountains have become a National Park, which was established by the
government in 1991 and is roughly 200 square kilometres in size.
This is Great Sugar Loaf Mountain, or simply known locally as - Sugar Loaf. It is often
mistaken for an old volcano, but it is in fact a sedimentary deposit of Cambrian quartzite
from the deep sea pushed up over millions of years. The rest of the Wicklow Mountains
are made of Devonian granite.
The mountain is only 501 metres high, but due to its isolated position and steep sloping
sides it appears much taller than it actually is.
Behind Great Sugar Loaf Mountain to the north is one of Ireland's greatest stately homes
and our final location.
The house has been rebuilt several times as has the magnificent garden, which stands in
the shadow of Sugar Loaf. It also a house that nearly died when it was gutted by fire
in the 1970's, but it survived and was rebuilt. This is Powerscourt.
The house we see today was built in the 18th century but substantially altered a hundred
later. The fire in 1974 took the roof off and gutted all the principal rooms, but the
real glory of Powerscourt was left undamaged -- the garden.
This 19th century Italianate design has a series of steps leading down from the terrace,
with formal parterres on either side, and continues down past great curving earth terraces,
sculpted out of the hill. The steps end at a small lake.
To the sides of the main formal garden are a series of smaller more informal ones including
the Tower Valley, a Japanese garden and the walled garden, with glass houses, close to
the house.
The inspiration for the design at Powerscourt came from palace gardens across Europe including
Versailles in France. The result is one of Ireland's greatest gardens and a perfect place
to end this journey.