Prague

GET THIS SHOT, MY FRIEND. FILLED WITH FAT AND PORK AND OVERBRIMMING AT BOTH ENDS. IN PRAGUE, PORK IS KING. OH, THIS IS WONDERFUL. IS THIS WRONG? [ LAUGHS ] THE HEALING MISTS OF PORK. IT'S A REAL SCHWEINKRIEG. I'M ANTHONY BOURDAIN. ♪ THAT'S RIGHT ♪ I WRITE. I TRAVEL. I EAT. AND I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE. ♪ OOH ♪ ♪ YOU GOT TO ♪ ♪ GET LOST ♪ -- Captions by VITAC -- www.vitac.com CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY THE TRAVEL CHANNEL, L.L.C. WELCOME TO PORKOPOLIS... PORK CITY... THE LAND THAT VEGETABLES FORGOT -- PRAGUE, CAPITAL OF THE CZECH REPUBLIC AND FAVORITE LOCATION FOR QUALITY FILMS SUCH AS "BLADE II." ALSO THE WORLD'S CAPITAL FOR BEER, BIRTHPLACE OF THE VELVET REVOLUTION, AND NOW ONE OF THE CULTURAL CENTERS OF EUROPE. I KNOW WHAT I ACTUALLY LOVE ABOUT PRAGUE, AND I LIKE HOW THE CITY IS BUILT. Bourdain: YES. I DON'T SEE A LOT OF PLACES THAT ARE THIS OLD AND THIS BEAUTIFUL. YOU'RE RIGHT. [ LAUGHS ] CZECHOSLOVAKIA WAS FOUNDED IN OCTOBER 1918 AS ONE OF THE SUCCESSOR STATES OF AUSTRIA-HUNGARY AT THE END OF WORLD WAR I... AFTER THE COLLAPSE OF THE AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN EMPIRE, BOHEMIA, MORAVIA, SLOVAKIA, CARPATHIAN RUTHENIA... IN 1939, WITH THE OUTBREAK OF WORLD WAR II, ANNEXED BY GERMANY, AND THE SECOND REPUBLIC OF CZECHOSLOVAKIA. ...ENDED IN THE THIRD REPUBLIC OF CZECHOSLOVAKIA, FOLLOWED A FEW YEARS LATER... UNTIL ITS DISSOLUTION IN 1993 AND THE FORMATION OF THE CZECH REPUBLIC. AFTER 1945, WITH THE COLD WAR IN FULL SWING, THE FORMER CZECHOSLOVAKIA REMAINED UNDER POWERFUL SOVIET INFLUENCE. THE COMMUNIST PARTY SEIZED POWER DIRECTLY IN 1948 -- AN EVENT THAT SIGNIFIED THE BEGINNINGS OF A TOTALITARIAN REGIME LASTING JUST OVER 40 YEARS. IT WASN'T UNTIL 1989, AFTER THE BERLIN WALL FELL, THAT A GENUINE REVOLUTION CLOGGED THE STREETS OF PRAGUE, AND CZECHOSLOVAKIA FREED ITSELF FROM BOTH COMMUNISM AND RUSSIAN CONTROL. IN 1993, PRAGUE BECAME THE CAPITAL CITY OF THE NEW CZECH REPUBLIC, AND VACLAV HAVEL, A VELVET UNDERGROUND FAN, BY THE WAY, BECAME ITS FIRST PRESIDENT. WE HAD 40 YEARS OF COMMUNISM, AND WE THINK THAT ACTUALLY OUR CUISINE GOT BADLY DAMAGED BY IT. IF YOU'VE BEEN INVADED BY THE RUSSIANS, IT'S NEVER A GOOD THING FOR FOOD. COMMUNISM TURNED OUT TO BE DISASTROUS FOR FOOD CULTURE EVERYWHERE IT WENT, AND WHILE PRAGUE MAY BE VERY OLD, THE CZECH REPUBLIC IS ONLY 17 YEARS NEW. THE BASIC RESTAURANT FARE IS A PRETTY TIGHT ROTATION OF STEADY, STICK-TO-YOUR-RIBS CLASSICS -- GOULASH, PORK KNEE, SAUSAGE -- DID I MENTION GOULASH? AND, OH, YEAH. BEER -- LOTS OF BEER. GOOD BEER -- NO, NOT GOOD. GREAT. SO, WHAT IS THIS PLACE? Rail: WELL, FOR BEER LOVERS, WHAT'S MOST INTERESTING IS THAT THIS BREWERY MAKES THE BEST PALE LAGERS IN THE WORLD, WITHOUT A DOUBT. CZECH CUISINE MAY NOT BE KNOWN FOR ITS ENDLESS VARIETY, DIVERSITY, BUT THAT DOESN'T MEAN YOU CAN'T EAT REALLY, REALLY WELL HERE AT AN OLD, ESTABLISHED, EVERYDAY KIND OF A JOINT. OR, IT TURNS OUT, AT THE LATEST, GREATEST, AND MOST CUTTING-EDGE PLACE. IT'S, UH -- YEAH, BEER O'CLOCK. SURE. THE TWO AREN'T MUTUALLY EXCLUSIVE, EITHER, AS CHEF OLDRICH SAHAJDAK, THE INNOVATIVE, GENRE-BENDING CHEF OF LA DEGUSTATION, WILL EXPLAIN. ONE NEEDS TO KNOW AND LOVE THE OLD BEFORE EXCELLING AT THE NEW. SO, WHAT'S THE -- WHERE ARE WE GOING? WHAT'S THE NAME OF THIS PLACE? THE BEAR. RIGHT. "PLACE OF THE BEARS" OR SOMETHING. AND THIS IS LIKE OLD-SCHOOL, TRADITIONAL. IT IS VERY OLD. YOU CAN SEE, IT'S 1466. MEDVíDKU, A BETTER-THAN-AVERAGE *** WITH A BREWERY IN THE BACK AND A BEER-FRIENDLY MENU THAT'S BEEN AROUND FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS. IN THESE PARTS, OLD MEANS OLD. A LOT OF THE PEOPLE I'VE BEEN SPEAKING TO HAVE KIND OF TALKED ABOUT CZECH IDENTITY. AND THE CHEFS I'VE MET ARE KIND OF APOLOGETIC ABOUT THE FOOD HERE. YOU KNOW, THEY'RE A LITTLE EMBARRASSED BY THE SAME MENU IN A LOT OF THE RESTAURANTS. I DON'T KNOW -- HOW MUCH DO YOU KNOW ABOUT THE COMMUNIST TIME WE HAD HERE? A-A-A LOT. THE RUSSIANS COME HERE. COMMUNISTS START TO BE... ...MORE AGGRESSIVE. AND THEY STOPPED ALL OF YOUR IDEAS YOU'VE HAD. THAT'S HEARTBREAKING. PEOPLE HAVE LARGELY FORGOTTEN WHAT IT WAS LIKE TO EAT HERE DURING THE PRE-COMMUNIST, PREWAR YEARS, MUCH LESS HOW TO COOK THE STUFF. NOT TO WORRY. THE BEER IS FINE, JUST FINE. AND AT MEDVíDKU, YOU GET A VERY DECENT PILE OF FOOD, TOO. THAT'S THE BEER CHEESE. THAT IS SINISTER-LOOKING, MAN. SPREADABLE, STINKY CHEESE? WHY, YES. OH, YEAH. THIS IS PERFECT WITH BEER. MAN, I-I-I'M LOVING THIS, BUT IF I WOKE UP IN THE MORNING WITH A REAL BAD HANGOVER, SMELLING THIS, I'D REALLY HATE MYSELF. IF YOU'RE DRUNK, YOU DON'T REMEMBER WHAT YOU EAT. YOU WERE JUST HUNGRY. YOU WENT AND FED YOURSELF. DESPITE HIS REPUTATION AS THE STANDARD BEARER FOR THE NEXT WAVE OF MODERN CZECH CHEFS, HE LOVES THAT GOOD OLD STUFF, TOO. YOU WERE MENTIONING TO ME BEFORE HOW EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE, YOU AND YOUR CREW, YOU'D GO OUT DRINKING, ONE BAR AFTER ANOTHER, AND THEN YOU EAT, WHAT, ANYTHING -- SAUSAGES, FRIED CHEESE. DEFINITELY. I EAT EVERYTHING. TO EAT FOIE GRAS OR TO EAT SIMPLE SAUSAGE IS THE SAME. I-I ADORE MORE SAUSAGE. MORE BEER AND AN ORDER OF SLOW-ROASTED PIGTAILS, WOW. THIS IS A CRIMINALLY NEGLECTED PIECE OF MEAT WHERE I COME FROM. THIS IS AN APPETIZER. HOLY CRAP. IT'S GOOD. OH, THIS IS GREAT. THIS IS SOME SICK [BLEEP] MAN. SO, I'M HAPPY THAT YOU LIKE IT, BECAUSE IT IS SIMPLE, ORDINARY FOOD WE EAT AT HOME. I LOVE THIS. IT'S CRISPY, FATTY, SWEET. I COULD REALLY JUST PRETTY MUCH CURL UP ON A BLANKET IN THE CORNER AND JUST GNAW ON THIS LIKE A DOG. IN FACT, I WILL. THE MAIN COURSE, BOTH BEEF DISHES -- MARINATED RIB OF BEEF IN DARK BEER AND BEEF WITH ROSE-HIP SAUCE. WHAT IS A ROSE HIP, ANYWAY? I NEVER ASKED. AND THIS IS BEEF THAT'S BEEN MARINATED IN BEER AND THEN SLOW-ROASTED. YEAH. THIS IS VERY TYPICAL, DIRTY HANDS EATING. NOT A LOT OF RARE MEAT IN THIS COUNTRY, EITHER. IT'S LOW AND SLOW UNTIL YOU CAN PRETTY MUCH EAT IT WITH A SPOON, WHICH IS NOT NECESSARILY A BAD THING. I LOVE THIS, MAN. IF I HAD THIS RESTAURANT DOWN THE STREET FROM WHERE I LIVE, I'D BE REALLY PLEASED. BUT AGAIN, THE MENTALITY IS YOU EAT A BIG, BIG MONSTER MEAL, AND THEN THAT'S ENOUGH FOR THE DAY. FOR ME, THIS IS THE REASON WHY THE CZECH GASTRONOMY DOESN'T HAVE A GOOD REPUTATION, BECAUSE DURING THE COMMUNIST COUNTRY, THERE WAS ONLY ONE BOOK WHICH THE CHEFS USED -- ONLY ONE BOOK. SO EVERYONE COOKED THE SAME. AND THIS BOOK SAYS THIS IS HOW THE TYPICAL PORTIONS LOOK LIKE. IT'S SO, SO HUGE. AND THAT WAS MY ONE BIG MEAL OF THE DAY, OR WAS SUPPOSED TO BE. SAVING ROOM FOR THE NEXT ONE -- DINNER AT OLDRICH'S PLACE, LA DEGUSTATION -- THE MOST PROGRESSIVE RESTAURANT IN PRAGUE AND MAYBE THE BEST. CLASSIC FRENCH ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE IN THE KITCHEN, NEW TECHNIQUES, AND SOME PRETTY DAMN GOOD-LOOKING PLATES. THE FIRST PLACE IN PRAGUE TO DO A SET TASTING MENU. AND YET THE FLAVORS ARE FAMILIAR -- EVOCATIVE, ONE MIGHT SAY, OF EARLIER EXPERIENCES. WHAT YOU'RE DOING IS VERY NEW FOR PRAGUE. DID SOME PEOPLE GET ANGRY AND CONFUSED WHEN THEY WOULD COME IN? THEY WERE THINKING WE ARE CRAZY, BECAUSE WHEN THEY CLOSE THEIR EYES, THEY EAT, THEY KNEW THE TASTE. BUT AS THEY SAW IT, THEY SAY, "WHAT IS IT? I CAN'T RECOGNIZE THE MEAL. WHAT IS IT?" BUT IT'S YOUR OWN VERSION, YOUR OWN ADAPTATION OF ORIGINAL. WE GOT OLD RECIPES, AND WE TRY TO MAKE IT A LITTLE BIT BETTER RIGHT. IN A COUNTRY BUILT ON MEAT, POTATOES, AND DUMPLINGS, IT WAS A TOUGH ARGUMENT TO MAKE, PARTICULARLY SINCE EVEN HAVING THOSE ON A REGULAR BASIS WAS A LUXURY BACK IN THE WORST OF COMMUNIST TIMES. SO, THIS IS OUR VERSION OF A CHRISTMAS MEAL, BECAUSE CHRISTMAS CZECH MEAL IS FRIED CARP WITH POTATO SALAD, SO WE PUT IT TOGETHER. FRIED CARP AND POTATO SALAD AND OLDRICH'S VERSION OF TRIPE SOUP -- SMALL PLATES AND SMALL VERSIONS OF BIG FLAVORS. OOH, THAT'S DELIGHTFUL. THAT'S NICE. BEEF TARTARE SERVED BETWEEN CRISPY CHIPS. AWW, IT'S CUTE. THAT'S FANTASTIC. THEN AN ASPIC OF PRAGUE HAM WITH POACHED EGG AND HOMEMADE LARD ON TOAST. NOW THAT MAY SOUND AS APPETIZING AS LICKING CHEETO DUST OFF THE FLOOR OF THE "ROCK OF LOVE" BUS, BUT NO. THIS, MY FRIENDS, WAS BOTH LIGHT AND RICH. AT THE SAME TIME, JELLO FOR GROWN-UPS. IT'S AN ASPIC OF PRAGUE HAM, POACHED EGG. SO THESE ARE ALL REALLY CLASSIC, FAMOUS INGREDIENTS THAT YOU'VE BEEN DOING FOR CENTURIES HERE, BUT NOT LIKE THIS. I'M ALREADY LOVING THIS MEAL, BUT RABBIT THREE-WAY? I'M NOT SURE. SOMEBODY ALWAYS GETS LEFT OUT, YOU KNOW? POOR BUNNY DOESN'T EVEN GET A REACH-AROUND. OH, I SEE WHAT YOU MEAN. YES, OF COURSE. ME TOO. OH, I SEE. THE KIDNEY. KIDNEY. NICE. I LOVE RABBIT KIDNEYS. AND AGAIN, THIS IS A FAIRLY TRADITIONAL FOOD. WHEN I CALL MY MOTHER, WHEN I TELL HER I'M COMING FOR THE DINNER, SHE ALWAYS COOKS THIS. LOIN LEG AND THE OH, SO SWEET, SAVORY JOY OF TINY RABBIT KIDNEYS. IF MORE PEOPLE KNEW ABOUT THESE LITTLE NUGGETS OF EXCELLENCE, THERE'D BE SOME ORGAN HARVESTING GOING ON IN MR. McGREGOR'S GARDEN, I CAN TELL YOU. BEAUTIFUL. SEE? THAT'S LOVELY. I'D LIKE TO SAY A LITTLE TONGUE USUALLY PRECEDES THE THREE-WAY, BUT THAT'S SO OBVIOUS, ISN'T IT? THANKFULLY, I'D NEVER DARE MAKE SUCH A VILE SUGGESTION. HERE A VERY RESPECTABLE, FRESHLY SMOKED BEEF TONGUE, RESPLENDENT WITH CHANTERELLE MUSHROOMS. IT'S VERY HARD TO PREPARE THIS FOOD, SO YOU HAVE TO MARINATE THIS MEAT FOR FOUR WEEKS. THEN YOU COOK IT FOR A LONG TIME. THEN YOU HAVE TO SMOKE IT, THEN YOU COOK IT AGAIN. BUT...IT'S WORTH IT. AND, FOR ME, TO SELL THESE THINGS, RIGHT. A FANTASTIC MEAL AT PERHAPS THE MOST FORWARD-THINKING RESTAURANT IN PRAGUE. TASTE OF THE OLD MADE NEW. TOMORROW MORE BEER AND PORK, YOU SAY? OH, TWIST MY ARM. I'M KIND OF ENJOYING THE BONING PROCESS. IF ANYTHING GOES WITH GOOD BEER, AS ANYONE WHO'S EVER BEEN TO AN INSTITUTION OF HIGHER LEARNING KNOWS, IT'S MORE BEER. AND HERE IN THE CENTER OF THE WORLD FOR BEER, WHERE TRADITIONALLY THE BEST OF THE BEST CAME FROM, IT'S WORTH NOTING IN TERMS WE CAN REALLY FEEL WHERE IT HURTS WHY SOVIET-STYLE COMMUNISM SUCKED AND WHAT'S HAPPENING HERE TO MAKE IT ALL BETTER AGAIN. TWO HOURS OUTSIDE OF PRAGUE IN THE FORESTS OF WESTERN BOHEMIA IS THIS BREWERY, UNTIL RECENTLY A COLLAPSED, MOLDERING SHELL STRIPPED OF EVERYTHING BY THE IVANS. Bourdain: SO, WHAT IS THIS PLACE? WELL, WE ARE AT PIVOVAR KOUT NA SUMAVE. THIS IS A BREWERY AND A SMALL VILLAGE IN WESTERN BOHEMIA. TRAVEL WRITER AND INTERNATIONAL BEER NERD EVAN RAIL HAS LIVED HERE FOR OVER A DECADE INVESTIGATING, PONTIFICATING, AND DRINKING THE GREAT BEERS AND ALES OF EUROPE AND CHRONICLING THEIR RETURN. FOR BEER LOVERS, WHAT'S MOST INTERESTING IS THIS BREWERY MAKES THE BEST PALE LAGERS IN THE COUNTRY, IF NOT THE WORLD. YEAH. ABSOLUTELY. WHY? I MEAN, WHAT DO THEY HAVE TO DO TO MAKE IT SO GOOD? WELL, IT BASICALLY COMES DOWN TO TWO THINGS -- IT'S ABOUT THE INGREDIENTS, AND IT'S ABOUT THE TECHNIQUES. THEY'RE USING THE BEST INGREDIENTS IN THE WORLD WITHOUT A DOUBT. NOW, NORMALLY, A BREWERY TOUR, UNLESS YOU'RE ACTUALLY DRINKING THE STUFF, IS ABOUT AS MUCH FUN AS TRYING TO TEACH A YORKIE HOW TO PINCH OUT AN UPPER DECKER. BUT BEAR WITH US, BEER FANS. PALE LAGERS, A PILSNER-STYLE BEER, IS THE MOST POPULAR IN THE WORLD. FOR AMERICAN MASS MARKETS, WE'VE CREATED A THIN, WEAK, VAGUELY EURO-QUALITY VERSION OF THE STUFF. BUT HERE, MUCH MORE ROBUST. LOOKS LIKE WE WILL BE HAVING SOME BEER. WE CALL PALE LAGERS PILSNERS, BUT THAT'S ACTUALLY A PLACE-SPECIFIC NAME, LIKE CHAMPAGNE OR KOBE OR PARMA. SO, WHAT MAKES THE BEER HERE GOOD? WELL, THERE ARE ONLY FOUR INGREDIENTS IN THIS BEER. THERE'S PRIMARILY WATER. RIGHT. PRESUMABLY GOOD WATER. SOME OF THE BEST WATER IN THE WORLD. MOST OF THE WORLD'S BARLEY WAS ORIGINATED IN MORAVIA, THE OTHER PART OF THE CZECH REPUBLIC. THEY ONLY USE CZECH MALT, AND THEY USE ONLY CZECH HOPS. AND THE WORLD'S MOST EXPENSIVE HOPS ARE CZECH. PILSNER-STYLE BEERS NEED THAT SPECIAL, SOFT WATER -- LESS THAN SEVEN PARTS PER MILLION DISSOLVED SOLIDS, TO BE SPECIFIC. I SOUND LIKE A BEER COMMERCIAL HERE. BUT UNLESS YOU'VE GOT SOME UNDERGROUND AQUIFER GURGLING CLEAR, PRISTINE WATER OUT OF A FOREST THAT'S BEEN UNTOUCHED BY TIME FOR 3,000 YEARS, FORGET ABOUT IT. AND IF YOU DO FIND THAT KIND OF A THING, BE SURE TO RIDE YOUR UNICORN OVER AND TELL US ALL ABOUT IT. THAT'S GOOD. IT'S A LITTLE BIT BITTER. NOSTALGIC? YES. IT'S A VERY NOSTALGIC TASTE TO ME FOR SOME REASON. I THINK THE COUNTRY HAS A CERTAIN NOSTALGIA FOR BEER. THEY'VE BEEN DRINKING THE LARGEST AMOUNTS OF BEER REGULARLY PER CAPITA IN THE WORLD. YOU CAN BEAT OUT THE AUSTRALIANS? BEAT OUT EVERYBODY. AND IT'S NOT EVEN CLOSE. REALLY? THEY'RE AHEAD BY ABOUT 30 LITERS PER PERSON PER YEAR. STILL, IT'S A PRETTY PRODUCTIVE COUNTRY, RIGHT? THEY STILL SEEM TO GET SOME THINGS DONE, YEAH. BUT THIS IS A CLASSIC-FLAVORED BEER, I MEAN, IN THE SENSE THAT IT'S NOT HIPPY BEER. IT DOESN'T TASTE LIKE WHEAT OR STRAWBERRIES OR... NO, NO, NO. THIS, TO ME, IS GOOD BEER. THE CZECH REPUBLIC BEERS ARE REALLY DRINKABLE. YOU CAN HAVE ONE WITH A MEAL AND ENJOY YOUR MEAL, AND YOU CAN HAVE ONE WITH THE NEXT MEAL AND ENJOY THAT. AND I THINK THE CONSUMPTION HERE IS, IT'S CONSTANT. IT'S NOT HIGH VOLUME. IT'S A BEER DAY EVERY DAY FOR THE REST OF YOUR LIFE. SO IT'S NOT TOO EARLY BY CZECH STANDARDS TO BE DRINKING BEER. GOOD, GOOD, GOOD. WORKERS HAVE A BEER WITH BREAKFAST. AND WE ARE WORKERS. WORKING RIGHT NOW. TOURING THE GROUNDS, WE END UP AT THE MALTING HOUSE THAT DATES BACK TO THE THIRTY YEARS WAR, AROUND 1648. WHICH MEANS ITS STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY IS A CONCERN, AS EVAN QUICKLY FINDS OUT FIRSTHAND AS ONE LEG SUDDENLY DROPS THROUGH THE ROTTING FLOORBOARDS AND HE VERY NEARLY DROPS TO HIS DEATH, OR WORSE, BEER WASTAGE. WHAT'S YOUR -- OH, MY GOD. YOU OKAY, MAN? YEAH, I'M FINE, BUT... WHOA. CHECK YOURSELF, MAN. SEE WHETHER YOU GOT CUT. I DIDN'T. I SCRAPED MYSELF, BUT I'M OKAY. YOU WENT DOWN HARD, MAN. WAIT A MINUTE. DID YOU SAVE THAT BEER? YEAH. I SAVED IT. YOU PRESERVED THE BEER? WELL, I LOST A LITTLE OF IT, BUT I-I SAVED THE MAJORITY. [ LAUGHS ] AFTER HURRIEDLY GETTING A TIPSY AND STILL IN SHOCK EVAN TO SIGN A WAIVER RELEASING US FROM ANY LIABILITY, WE FIGURE PLYING HIM WITH MORE BEER IS THE SENSIBLE LEGAL STRATEGY. "HELL, WE'LL EVEN BUY YOU DINNER," WE SAID. IF HE STILL REMEMBERS THIS UNFORTUNATE INCIDENT TOMORROW, BY THE WAY, IT LOOKS LIKE SOMEBODY IS GETTING A FRUIT BASKET. THIS IS A NICE PLACE FOR BEER IN THE SENSE THAT IT HAS SIX KINDS OF BEER ON DRAFT. FROM REGIONAL PRODUCERS YOU'LL NEVER SEE ANYWHERE ELSE IN PRAGUE OR OUTSIDE OF THE COUNTRY. SO THEY'RE BASICALLY EXCLUSIVELY HERE? YEAH, THESE ARE BREWERIES FROM THE OUTSKIRTS OF MORAVIA OR BOHEMIA THAT SEND IN ONE KEG, AND THEY SELL IT UNTIL THEY RUN OUT OF BEER. ALL REGIONAL BEERS HERE ARE ORDERED BY NUMBER OR BY SPECIFIC NICKNAME. HERE THE NAMES ARE OFTEN ANIMATE OBJECTS. SO YOU SAY, "I'LL HAVE THAT GUY." YEAH. SO, WE'RE HAVING A COUPLE OF STEVENS. IT'S JUST A TYPICAL PALE LAGER. NO. THAT'S EXCELLENT. IT'S EXCELLENT, YEAH. IT'S A GOOD DAILY DRINKER. MORE BEER -- A SEA OF GOLDEN AMBROSIA, BUBBLES, AND PORK. A REGULAR FEATURE OF EVERYDAY LIFE HERE AND A SPECIALTY OF THIS PLACE IS THE KOLENO, A MIGHTY PORK KNUCKLE OR SHANK -- NOT KNOWN AS MAKING FOR LIGHT EATING -- SERVED IN ALL ITS AUSTERE SIMPLICITY WITH RED CABBAGE AND HORSERADISH ON THE SIDE -- A NICE, ASTRINGENT COUNTERPOINT TO THE GENEROUS AMOUNT OF FAT YOU'RE GONNA BE SHOVING INTO YOUR GOB. HOW MUCH DID YOU GET? YOU GOT A WEIGHT ON IT. IT SAYS HOW MANY GRAMS YOU'RE GETTING. REALLY? I GOT ALMOST 1,300 GRAMS -- 2 1/2 POUNDS. WOW. THAT'S AN IMPRESSIVE-LOOKING HUNK OF MEAT. HOW MUCH DO YOU THINK YOU CAN FINISH? EVERY SCRAP. OKAY. DO YOU WANT SOME OF MINE? NO, NO, NO. "KOLENO" MEANS "KNEE," BUT THIS AIN'T A KNEE. KNEES DON'T HAVE MEAT ON THEM, AND THIS THING MOST CERTAINLY DOES. CALF IS WHAT WE'RE TALKING ABOUT HERE, AND THIS ONE'S ABOUT THE SIZE OF A MEDIUM-SIZED BATALI. IT'S NOT HAUTE CUISINE, BUT IT GOES WITH BEER. THAT'S DELICIOUS AND MOIST. WELL, THERE ARE CONNOISSEURS WHO WILL DRIVE ACROSS THE COUNTRY FOR THEIR FAVORITE. OUT IN THE BOONDOCKS THAT MAKES A PARTICULARLY GOOD ONE. AND IT'S DEFINITELY ONE OF THE COUNTRY'S FAVORITE MEALS PROBABLY BECAUSE IT GOES SO WELL WITH BEER. ARE YOU EATING YOUR SKIN? I AM EATING MY SKIN. I'M EATING ALL THE GOO AND ALL THE SKIN. AND YOU'RE JUST GONNA CLEAR THE WHOLE THING STRAIGHT THROUGH? I'M CONFIDENT I WILL MAKE IT. GOING ALL THE WAY, MAN. YOU'RE NOT GONNA MAKE IT. YOU'VE GOT ALL THAT GOO TO EAT. AND SKIN. YOU'RE NOT MAKING IT SOUND APPETIZING, MAN. I MEAN, I WAS ENJOYING MYSELF HERE. I WAS SELLING THIS. YEAH, I'M GONNA BE FEELING FUNKY-FRESH WHEN I FLOP INTO BED LATER. AND... FLATULENT. ADD THREE OR FOUR OR FIVE MORE BEERS TO THIS STEGOSAURIAN-SIZED HUNK OF MEAT AND BONE AND YOU CAN PRETTY MUCH DELETE THE WORD "SVELTE" FROM THE LIST OF WORDS YOU'LL NEED TO KNOW FOR THE REST OF YOUR LIFE. WHAT'S GOING ON HERE? WAIT A MINUTE. WHAT HE HELL IS THAT? BEHOLD THE GIRAFFE. AND THAT IS JUST PLAIN WRONG -- THE ULTIMATE IN [BLEEP] ACCESSORIES. OH, THIS IS CALLED A "GIRAFFE." AND A GIRAFFE IS A FOUR-LITER PORTION OF BEER -- THAT'S EIGHT HALF-LITERS, EIGHT BEERS. I'M LOOKING AT THAT, AND I'M SEEING THREE TRIPS TO THE BATHROOM. IT IS KIND OF A WAY TO SCARE EVERYONE IN THE BAR OFF, THOUGH. I MEAN, I DON'T THINK THE LADIES OVER THERE ARE LOOKING OVER AND GOING, "THOSE GUYS ARE WHERE IT'S AT." I MEAN, CLEARLY, YOUR ABILITY TO MAINTAIN ANYTHING RESEMBLING AN *** IS IN INVERSE PROPORTION TO THE AMOUNT -- BEER, RIGHT. WHERE, ON THE OTHER HAND, THE LIKELIHOOD THAT YOU WILL GO HOME AND PEE IN YOUR SOCK DRAWER [LAUGHS] IS RISING. JUST MAKE YOUR GIRLFRIEND A MIXED TAPE. YOU DON'T NEED TO DRINK THE BEER. I FEEL THE NEED TO ADMIT TO HAVING HAD ONE OF THESE KOLENO PORK KNEES LATE LAST NIGHT BY MYSELF AT THE BAR. I KNOW WHAT YOU'RE THINKING. "HOW COULD YOU? THAT'S DISGUSTING." BUT IT'S NOT. IT IS, IN A WORD, DELICIOUS. I WOULD HAVE ANOTHER TOMORROW NIGHT IF MY PESKY PRODUCER HADN'T SCHEDULED A FRIED-CHEESE SANDWICH SCENE. IT'S MAGNIFICENT. OH, MAN, I WISH I WAS DRUNKER. THE VELVET REVOLUTION CAME AND WENT IN 1989, BUT TWO YEARS LATER, THE RUSSIANS WERE STILL EXERCISING A HOLD OVER CZECH POLICY AND GOVERNMENT. 21-YEAR-OLD ART STUDENT DAVID CERNY DID SOMETHING THAT, NOT THAT COMPLICATED OR IMPORTANT A THING, ONE WOULD THINK, ENDED UP BECOMING THE ICONIC IMAGE OF THOSE TIMES. HE PAINTED A TANK, LEFT BEHIND IN CENTRAL PRAGUE AS A REMEMBRANCE OF SOVIET WAR DEAD, A BRIGHT-PINK COLOR. IT WAS QUICKLY PAINTED OVER, ONLY TO BE REPAINTED PINK AGAIN AND EVENTUALLY REMOVED ENTIRELY. BUT BY THEN, CERNY HAD GAINED A NOTORIETY ALL OVER THE WORLD AND BECOME THE UNCONTESTED ENFANT TERRIBLE OF THE CZECH VISUAL-ARTS SCENE. THOUGH HIS WORK IS OCCASIONALLY PUBLICLY COMMISSIONED, HE'S STILL COURTING CONTROVERSY, AND MANY PIECES HAVE OFFENDED OR OUTRAGED SOMEBODY, LIKE THIS UPSIDE-DOWN HORSE. AND, OF COURSE, THIS. HIS LATEST, "ENTROPA," MANAGED TO ENRAGE MUCH OF THE E.U. -- WHOLE COUNTRIES LIKE BELGIUM, MY OLD FRIENDS IN ROMANIA, THE BULGARIANS. GEEZ. CAN NO ONE TAKE A JOKE? ANSWER -- NO. Bourdain: I GATHER FROM THIS TWO THINGS -- ONE, APPARENTLY, YOU'RE AN ENEMY OF THE STATE IN BULGARIA NOW. YEAH, DEFINITELY. I'M GONNA GUESS NOT TOO POPULAR IN ROMANIA, EITHER. IF THAT'S TRUE, WE HAVE SOMETHING IN COMMON, BECAUSE I'M AN ENEMY OF THE STATE IN ROMANIA. TO THE ROMANIAN PRESS, I WORKED FOR THE KGB AND THE MOSSAD. AT THE SAME TIME? AT THE SAME TIME. THAT'S FUNNY. SO YOU ENDED UP IN PRISON THERE? ITALY AND GERMANY GOT OFF EASY. OTHERS... BUT, YOU KNOW, I HAVE TO SAY ONE THING. I WOULD SAY THAT THE REACTIONS WHICH I GET, THEY WERE LIKE 95% HIGHLY POSITIVE. RIGHT. WELL, A SENSE OF HUMOR ABOUT YOURSELF IS ALWAYS A GOOD THING. YOU KNOW, COMMUNISM WAS GOOD FOR A VERY DARK SENSE OF HUMOR. YES, UNTIL THE MOMENT YOU END UP IN PRISON. THEN IT'S NOT FUNNY. NO, THEN IT IS NOT FUNNY ANYMORE. "ARS LONGA, VITA BREVIS," AS THEY SAY. "ART IS LONG, BUT BEER IS FOREVER." I THINK THAT'S WHAT IT MEANS, ANYWAY. SO WE HEAD OFF TO CERNY'S LOCAL BAR TO CONTINUE OUR REFLECTIONS ON MATTERS OF TIMELESS IMPORTANCE. SO, WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT IT HERE? I WOULD SAY THAT I HAVE QUITE A LOT OF FRIENDS AND GIRLFRIENDS. BUT, I MEAN, COME ON. WHEN YOU WAKE UP IN THE MORNING AND YOU WALK DOWN THE STREET -- I'M PISSED. YOU'RE PISSED ALL DAY. [ BOTH LAUGH ] WHAT HERE? SOME BASIC FEATURE HERE? SAUSAGE? YOU LIKE SAUSAGES? YOU HATE IT? OKAY. BE ABLE TO EAT IT. I'VE EATEN A LOT OF GOULASH HERE. WELL, YOU KNOW, I'M ALMOST VEGETARIAN. SO I'M NOT EVEN GONNA GO FOR THE PORK KNEE? [BLEEP] [ LAUGHS ] DUMPLINGS? DUMPLINGS ARE [BLEEP] [ LAUGHS ] OH, MAN. SO IF YOU'RE AWAY FOR A LONG TIME, WHAT'S -- OTHER THAN YOUR FRIENDS -- THEN GIRLFRIENDS. IT'S ALL ABOUT THE GIRLS. WELL, IT'S ABOUT 75% THE GIRLS, AND 25% WOULD BE ABOUT THE NICE, SECRET PLACES WHICH IS FUN TO TAKE A GIRLFRIEND. THE GIRLFRIENDS -- [BLEEP] HER DOWN. SO 75% WOULD BE GIRLFRIENDS, AND 25% WOULD BE THE PLACE THAT YOU GO TO [BLEEP] GIRLFRIENDS. YES. [ Laughing ] THAT'S CORRECT. ACTUALLY, YOU KNOW WHAT I SERIOUSLY MISSED IS BEER. THE BEER? BEER, OF COURSE. THAT IS THE ONLY THING. HE'S A PRETTY MISANTHROPIC GUY. HATES THE RIGHT, HATES THE LEFT, THE BOURGEOISIE. HE'S GRUMPY, BUT FUNNY, LIKES BEER. HEY, HE'D BE GOOD AT MY JOB. THE TOWN KNOWN, I'M TOLD, FOR ITS NIGHTLIFE IS BOUND TO HAVE STREET VENDORS AND STREET FOOD AND THE KIND OF GREASY, GUT-BUSTING STUFF THAT DRUNKS EVERYWHERE CRAVE. I'M ON A HUNT FOR SAUSAGES AND FRIED THINGS, BOTH SPECIALTIES OF THESE PARTS. WHAT PEOPLE ARE TELLING ME IS THAT TRADITIONAL CZECH CUISINE WAS OBLITERATED BY THE SOVIETS. OH, YEAH. THERE WAS ALMOST NOTHING LEFT. IT IS SUFFERING. BUT -- BUT THAT IT SEEMS TO BE COMING BACK. I THINK THAT ALL OVER THE WORLD, YOU WANT TO HAVE GRANDMA'S FOOD AGAIN, YOU KNOW? YOU WANT TO HAVE COMFORT STUFF. ZDENEK POHLREICH IS THE CHEF OF ONE OF THE GRANDER, BETTER RESTAURANTS IN TOWN AND, FRANKLY, SEEMS A LITTLE HORRIFIED AND DISGUSTED BY MY PASSION FOR SAUSAGE. SO, THIS WOULD BE TYPICAL, YOU KNOW. THIS IS THE ONE. YEAH. YEAH. WHAT'S NOT TO LOVE? OOH, WHAT'S -- YEAH, THERE WE GO. OH, YEAH. WHAT SHOULD I BE DRINKING WITH THIS? BEER? BEER, ABSOLUTELY. YEAH, YEAH. I'M ALL BLISSED OUT BY THIS INVITING WALL OF WIENERS, AND I GUESS FOR HIM, IT'S LIKE ANOTHER CHEF COMING TO YOUR TOWN AND BEING INTERESTED ONLY IN STRING CHEESE AND CURLY FRIES. YEAH. IT'S GOOD, MAN. YEAH. IT'S ALL RIGHT. I'M A HAPPY MAN. ARE YOU? YEAH. THIS USED TO BE THE REALLY TRADITIONAL THING, YOU KNOW? UH-HUH. YOU GO DRINKING ALL NIGHT SOMEWHERE, UH-HUH. THAT WAS THE ONLY PLACE WHERE YOU COULD EAT SOMETHING. I THINK THAT'S TRUE THE WORLD 'ROUND. YOU KNOW, WHEN THEY KICK YOU OUT OF THE REGULAR RESTAURANTS, THERE'S ALWAYS MEAT IN A TUBE FORM. YEAH. OH, YEAH. YOU GOT IT GOOD HERE, MAN. IN NEW YORK. NO. I MEAN, YOU KNOW, WE HAVE HOT DOGS, BUT... YEAH? YOU KNOW, HOT, NICE SAUSAGES LIKE THIS. LET'S SEE. OH, FRIED CHEESE WITH MAYONNAISE. I GOT TO DO THAT, RIGHT? YOU HAVE TO HAVE IT. FRIED-CHEESE SANDWICH. OH, YEAH. WE WERE BOTH FREEZING OUR *** OFF, BY THE WAY, WHICH ALSO MIGHT HELP EXPLAIN HIS BEFUDDLED EXPRESSION. HOW COULD I KEEP DOING THIS, AS OUR FINGERS GROW NUMB? SHOULDN'T WE BE IN SOME WARM, SWANK LOUNGE, DRINKING COCKTAILS TO A THROBBING TECHNO BEAT? NOT ME, MY FRIEND. NOT ME. SAUSAGES ALL SHAPES AND SIZES AND ALL DELICIOUS. BUT WHAT OF THIS? FRIED CHEESE ON A SANDWICH? I NEED THAT RIGHT THE [BLEEP] NOW. [ LAUGHS ] OH, YEAH, BABY. MMM. IT'S MAGNIFICENT. MMM. OH, MAN, I WISH I WAS DRUNKER. THE MORE YOU'RE GONNA LOVE THIS. AND THIS IS... [ LAUGHS ] SEE, I KNOW NOW I COULD LIVE HERE. YEAH? LATE AT NIGHT, IF THIS WAS HERE IN MY NEIGHBORHOOD, I WOULD BE OKAY. SO YOU'RE ENJOYING IT? I'M LOVING THIS. I MEAN, YOU LOOK HORRIFIED. YOU'RE STANDING THERE LIKE, "OH, MAN." NO, NO, NO, NO. NO, I'M NOT HORRIFIED, NO. IT'S LIKE A -- I'M NOT REALLY EATING THIS OFTEN. FROM TIME TO TIME, I FEEL SO TEMPTED, YOU KNOW? I FEEL LIKE THAT I SHOULD GO AND HAVE ONE. YOU SHOULD, MAN. YOU SHOULD. I SHOULD. THIS IS A BLESSING. THIS IS A GREAT THING TO HAVE IN YOUR TOWN. FRIED CHEESE ON A BUN? MAY SEEM LIKE A SMALL THING TO YOU. TO ME, IT'S AN ANSWERED PRAYER. THE FACT THAT YOU'VE HELD ON TO THIS, THAT THIS TRADITION IS HERE IS A GOOD SIGN. YOU ATE THE WHOLE THING. DID I EAT THAT WHOLE -- YEAH, I DID, DIDN'T I? I THINK I ATE TWO WHOLE SAUSAGES AND A MOZZARELLA SANDWICH. IN A GOOD WAY. JESUS. [ CHUCKLES ] WHAT'S THE FIRST THING YOU THINK OF WHEN PONDERING CZECH CUISINE? VIETNAMESE NOODLES? NO, ME NEITHER. SO, WE ALL GO OUT FOR ROOT CANALS AFTER THIS. PLAN? WANT TO EAT THE SAME STUFF, GO TO THE SAME PLACES? CHECK OUT OUR TRAVEL GUIDES ON travelchannel.com. PRAGUE IS HOME TO A SIZABLE VIETNAMESE POPULATION -- ALWAYS OF INTEREST TO ME. UNLIKE MOST OF THE VIETNAMESE WHO EMIGRATED TO THE U.S. FROM THE SOUTH, MANY IF NOT MOST HERE STEM FROM EXCHANGE IN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS BACK IN COMMUNIST TIMES -- NORTHERNERS OR THE KIDS OF NORTHERNERS. I'VE COME TO SAVOY CAFé TO MEET TINA, WHO ASSURES ME THAT HERE IN THE CZECH REPUBLIC, I CAN SCORE AN AUTHENTIC BOWL OF HANOI-STYLE PHO. I WAS BORN IN VIETNAM, IN HANOI. HANOI BUN CHA IS ONE OF MY FAVORITE THINGS. FAVORITE THINGS, YES. YOU MUST HAVE BEEN VERY YOUNG WHEN YOU CAME OVER. YES, I WAS ABOUT 8 YEARS. DO THE CZECHS LIKE VIETNAMESE FOOD? THEY LOVE IT. HOW ABOUT GETTING THE INGREDIENTS, LIKE FOR PHO? IS THAT DIFFICULT? NO, NO. THE MARKET HERE, SAPA, THERE IS EVERYTHING YOU NEED. OH, GOOD. WE'VE HAD A LOT OF GOULASH AND A LOT OF PORK. AND DUMPLINGS. AND A LOT OF DUMPLINGS, YES. SO I'M LOOKING FORWARD TO SOME VIETNAMESE FOOD. IT'S FREEZING FREAKING COLD, AND IT WAS A PRETTY LONG DRIVE, AND I'M REALLY LOOKING FORWARD TO THAT BOWL OF HOT, STEAMING NOODLES AND THINLY SLICED BEEF. SAPA IS LIKE A COMMERCIAL COMPOUND, 100% VIETNAMESE AND 100% UNHAPPY ABOUT CAMERAS WITHIN THE PERIMETER. GETTING A PHO SHOP TO AGREE TO BE FILMED HERE TOOK A LOT OF DOING, AS DID GETTING THE MYSTERIOUS MARKET OVERLORDS, WHO TOLD US WE COULD SHOOT ONLY IN THE SHOP AND NOT OTHER BUSINESSES. EVERYTHING NICE AND FRIENDLY. AND HERE IS OUR PLACE. Bourdain: OH, FANTASTIC. SO, WE SHOW UP AT THE PHO JOINT AS ARRANGED, AND SUDDENLY, NO PHO. WE'RE OUT. NO MORE. WHICH IS FINE. I COMPLETELY UNDERSTAND PREFERRING TO NOT BE ON TELEVISION. THAT'S CALLED "NORMAL." BUT WE SIT THERE, MISERABLE FOR A WHILE, TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHAT TO DO NEXT, PHO FLYING OUT THE DOOR UNDER OUR NOSES, WHICH IS FRANKLY HURTING MY FEELINGS, YOU KNOW? SO BY THE TIME WE MANAGED TO WING IT AND SCORE SOME BUN ôC, A RICE VERMICELLI DISH, AND BROTH WITH SNAILS AND PORK MEATBALLS, FRIED TOFU WITH SEAWEED, I'M PRETTY [BLEEP] GRATEFUL FOR IT. Bourdain: AH. VERY HAPPY. [ LAUGHS ] IT'S DELICIOUS. AHH. OKAY. SO BON APPé***. THANK YOU. THAT'S VERY GOOD. YES. ANYTHING GOOD AND SPICY AND NOODLES IN A BOWL, YEAH. EXACTLY. I LOVE SPICY FOOD. WHAT ABOUT CZECHS, THOUGH? DO THEY LIKE SPICY FOOD? MM, NOT SO. NOT SO. BUT I'D IMAGINE THAT SMART CZECHS WOULD WANT TO COME HERE TO SHOP, BECAUSE YOU HAVE REALLY GOOD FOOD. YES. GOOD PRODUCE, MEAT, BUTCHERS, FISH. YES. WHICH ARE SOMETIMES HARD TO FIND IN PRAGUE. HERE YOU CAN FIND EVERYTHING. AND NOW, FORTIFIED BY SNAILS AND BEER, I HAD THE STRENGTH TO RETURN TO THAT MISERABLE [BLEEP] AT THE PHO SHOP WHO [BLEEP] US OVER AND PUT THE BOOT IN. EVER SUSPECTED THE SUBURBS WERE SINISTER? IN PRAGUE, YOU MAY WELL BE RIGHT. [ NORAH GASPS ] NO WAY. I HAVE NEVER SEEN THAT IN MY LIFE. A TYPICAL SUBURBAN NEIGHBORHOOD, OUTSKIRTS OF PRAGUE. A CHILLY, SOME MIGHT SAY FRIGID MORNING THAT THREATENS TO BECOME MOIST -- JUST THE PLACE FOR A BLOOD FEAST OF PORKTASTIC, PORKILICIOUS FUN. IT'S COMMON IN THE FALL FOR FAMILIES THROUGHOUT THE CZECH REPUBLIC TO HIRE A BUTCHER TO SLAUGHTER A PIG, WHICH IS THEN PREPARED AND COOKED IN A VARIETY OF WAYS IN PREPARATION FOR THE WINTER MONTHS, UTILIZING EVERY PART OF THE ANIMAL SO NONE GOES TO WASTE. Bourdain: OOH. BIG ONE. THAT'S A BIG HOG. STILL STEAMING. BUTCHER AND EXPAT CHRIS ROBERTSON HAS INVITED ME TO HIS FELLOW BUTCHER'S, THE HAJEKS', HOME ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF PRAGUE WHERE THIS TRADITION IS STILL ALIVE AND WELL. SLAUGHTERING THE FAMILY PIG FOR GOODIES TO LAST TILL SPRING MAY SOON BE A THING OF THE PAST DUE TO TIGHTER E.U. LAWS ON HANDLING OF LIVESTOCK. IT'S A PARTY. IT MAY BE EARLY MORNING, BUT OUR FIXER, NORAH, SMARTLY DIRECTS ME STRAIGHT TO THE DRINKS. IT'S COLD, AND I'M STILL SMARTING OVER YESTERDAY'S INSULT. A LITTLE SLIVOVITZ GOES A LONG WAY TO SMOOTHING THE EDGES. Bourdain: YOU KNOW, IT'S SOMETHING I'VE NOTICED. EVERY TIME SOMEONE KILLS A PIG IN EUROPE, THERE'S ALWAYS DRINKS AND SNACKS. THE PIG KILLING ALWAYS ENDS UP WITH, LIKE, LOTS OF DRUNKARDS AROUND, YOU KNOW, SO YOU HARDLY KNOW WHAT THEY KILLED AT THE END. YEAH, KNIVES AND HATCHETS AND HARD LIQUOR IN THE MORNING. THEY GO WELL TOGETHER. NO TIME IS WASTED, AS OUR PIG IS ZIPPED OPEN AND NEATLY AND EFFICIENTLY BUSTED UP INTO ITS CONSTITUENT PARTS, DISMEMBERED LIKE A MISSING CAPO. SO MUCH TO DO AND SO LITTLE TIME, BECAUSE WE'RE GONNA EAT THIS WHOLE [BLEEP] THING. I WOULD SAY IN THE TRADITIONAL VILLAGES, WHERE THE PIG'S BEING KEPT IN THE BACK SHED AND FED ALL THE SCRAPS FROM THE HOUSE, I WOULD SAY THAT THIS IS MAYBE EVEN ON THE SMALL SIDE. NORMALLY, IT'S UP TO ABOUT 200 KILOS, WHICH IS A MOUNTAIN OF MEAT AND A MOUNTAIN OF BLACK PUDDING. KEEP YOU GOING FOR THE NEXT SIX MONTHS. Bourdain: THEY'RE WHITTLING THAT THING DOWN, MAN. THERE'S GONNA BE NOTHING LEFT. IT'S PIECE BY PIECE. THE COOKING GETS GOING, THE AIR FILLS WITH THE DELICIOUS AROMA OF PORK, AND IT SEEMS LIKE EVERYONE'S GOT A JOB MAKING THE BLOOD SAUSAGE, WHITE PUDDING, HEAD CHEESE, GOULASH, BRAWN. THE TROTTERS, OR PIG FEET, GO IN THE STOCK, LATER TO BE STRIPPED FOR SAUSAGES. FAT AND SKIN BOILED, IMPORTANT COMPONENTS OF SAUSAGES LATER. SO, WHAT'S HAPPENING WITH THE PIG? HOW IS IT BEING COOKED? HE'S GONNA COOK THE MEAT FOR DIFFERENT KINDS OF SAUSAGES. HE'S GONNA PREPARE A GOULASH. HE'S GONNA PREPARE A BLOOD SOUP, CALLED DARK SOUP. OH, NICE. THAT SOUNDS REALLY GOOD. EVERYTHING THAT YOU CAN REALLY EAT AS MEAT OR ROAST OR ANYTHING THEY'RE JUST GONNA CUT INTO SMALL PIECES NICE. OH, YEAH. I LOOK AT PIG GUTS, IT MAKES ME HUNGRY. AH, THANK YOU. AND A LOCAL *** AND THE EXCELLENT CZECH BEER. [ SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE ] NA ZDRAVí. AND MORE LOCAL ***. I MEAN, I KNOW THIS IS A GREAT TRADITION. IT'S KIND OF UNDER THREAT RIGHT ACROSS EUROPE. THEY DON'T WANT PEOPLE DOING THIS IN THEIR BACKYARD. THAT'S ONE OF THE NICE THINGS ABOUT THIS COUNTRY IS THAT THE TRADITIONS STILL LIVE ON, AND I THINK THAT PEOPLE STILL GOT A GRANNY WHO LIVES IN THE VILLAGE WHO WILL GIVE THEM THE POTATOES FOR THE WINTER AND WILL DO THIS ONCE A YEAR SO THE FAMILY CAN TAKE BACK HOME TO THEIR FREEZERS. YEAH, IT'S TRUE. AND IT SEEMS TO BE MORE ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY, IN A WAY. I-I LIKE THE TRADITIONAL FOOD A LOT. I MEAN, WHAT EVERYBODY TELLS ME IS THAT TRADITIONAL CZECH CUISINE WAS REALLY SCREWED OVER BY THE SOVIETS AND BY HISTORY. THAT SAID, THE BASICS HERE, EVEN, YOU KNOW, A NOT VERY GOOD GOULASH IS STILL GOULASH, YOU KNOW, AND I LIKE THAT A LOT. YEAH. I SOMEHOW KNEW THIS WAS COMING MY WAY. NA ZDRAVí. NA ZDRAVí. IT'S 11:00 A.M. I'VE GOT LIKE 6 DRINKS IN ME. "GOT A SKINFUL," AS THEY USED TO SAY. GOULASH, OF COURSE. JUST 'CAUSE IT'S UBIQUITOUS HERE DOESN'T MAKE IT ANY LESS DELICIOUS. HERE MADE WITH -- SURPRISE, SURPRISE -- PORK. RIGHT IN TIME, TOO, 'CAUSE VERTICALITY WAS BECOMING A PROBLEM. AND SIMPLEST THING IN THE WORLD, AND DELICIOUS. OOH. LITTLE CHUNKS OF GUT IN THERE. LIVER? YEAH. OH, THIS IS GOOD. IT'S CHUNKY, BUT CHIC. OH, WOW. GOOD SMELLS COMING FROM ALL DIRECTIONS AT THIS POINT. HARD TO COMPUTE. ALCOHOL FOGGING BRAIN. SURE DRINKING A LOT AROUND HERE. NA ZDRAVí. I'M HAVING A PORK SAUNA. IS THIS WRONG? I'M BEING TOTALLY, LIKE, PERMEATED BY PORK. PORKED, IF YOU WILL... THOROUGHLY. GOD. I MEAN, I'LL NEVER BE ABLE TO GET THE SMELL OUT OF THIS JACKET. WHO'S MISSING A PIG LONG AFTER HE WAS DEAD? Norah: THIS IS SUPPOSED TO BE THE BEST PART. GOD, THIS IS DELI? NO, NO, NO. OH, JOWL. OOH, WOW. MMM. NICE. A FESTIVE SPREAD OF JUST-COOKED BELLY, CHEEK, AND JOWL. DIP IN SALT, THEN MUSTARD. MMM. OH, MAN. FRIED SKIN AND MORE BEER. [ LAUGHS ] AND THERE'S MORE TO COME. OH, THERE'S SOME SERIOUS SAUSAGE HAPPENING HERE. I'M WEEPING PORK TEARS. [ NORAH GASPS ] NO WAY. [ LAUGHS ] NO WAY! I HAVE NEVER SEEN THAT IN MY LIFE. THAT IS UNBELIEVABLE. HOW? THOUGHT YOU NEEDED A SPOUT AND A THING AND A... THAT IS SUPER, SUPER OLD-SCHOOL. WOW. THIS IS A HOLY [BLEEP] MOMENT FOR ME, BY THE WAY, BECAUSE I HAVE NEVER IN MY LIFE EVER SEEN ANYBODY DO THIS BY HAND. HE'S LIKE A THRESHING MACHINE. I FEEL EXACTLY LIKE THIS SAUSAGE -- FILLED WITH FAT AND PORK AND OVERBRIMMING AT BOTH ENDS. I THINK I NEED A TRANSFUSION OF GREEN VEGETABLES. [ LAUGHS ] DOCTOR, SPINACH STAT. AND NOT EVEN CLOSED TO FINISHED. MY FAVORITE -- THE BLOOD SAUSAGE. MMM. DELICIOUS. CONSIDER THE BLOOD SAUSAGE. MMM. JUICY. ONE OF MY FAVORITE THINGS. IT'S CRUNCHY LITTLE CHICHARRóN IN THERE. MMM. GOOD. GREAT, ACTUALLY. THAT WAS THE BEST THING SO FAR. AND THERE'S STILL SOUP COMING. THE SOUP IS ALMOST DONE. WHOO-HOO. AND LASTLY, BLOOD SOUP -- AN APPROPRIATE WAY TO END THIS DAYLONG SLAUGHTER FEST, 'CAUSE EVERYTHING HAS MADE THEIR WAY THROUGH THIS BROTH. THE BASE IS THE BROTH THAT THEY WERE COOKING EVERYTHING IN IT BEFORE -- THE MEAT, THE SAUSAGES, EVERYTHING. AND THEN THEY ADDED SPICES, SALT, PEPPER, AND THE BLOOD. Bourdain: THAT'S GOOD. I DO. EVERYTHING THAT PIG HAD TO GIVE US, IT GAVE. [ Laughing ] YEAH. REALLY ENJOYED IT. THE WHOLE MEAL WAS AMAZING. THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR WORK. [ SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE ] HE'S SAYING THIS IS THE MOST SILENT MOMENT, YOU KNOW? YEAH. [ LAUGHS ] DELICIOUS. WELL, WE'VE RID THE WORLD OF ANOTHER DANGEROUS PORCINE PEST, HIS SNORTING AND HIS SQUEALING AND HIS ADORABLE CHILDREN'S STORIES. GOD KNOWS WHAT HE COULD HAVE DONE TO SOME INNOCENT PERSON HAD WE NOT ENDED HIS REIGN OF TERROR. TO TOP IT ALL OFF, ONE OF MY FAVORITE THINGS -- GOOSE. THAT'S SO BEAUTIFUL. WE'LL BE RIGHT BACK AFTER THE BREAK. IN A PLEASANT CHANGE OF DIRECTION, A TURN OFF THE HIGHWAY OF NONSTOP PORK, THE RIVERS OF BEER, HANA MICHOPULU, A CHEF AND COOKBOOK AUTHOR, HAS INVITED ME TO JOIN HER FAMILY FOR A TRADITIONAL CZECH MEAL. WELL, BRUNCH, THANKFULLY, IS AN ALL BUT UNKNOWN CONCEPT IN THE CZECH REPUBLIC. THE EARLY AFTERNOON BIG MEAL IS A MORE ENDURING CUSTOM. PREPARATION IS AN ALL-DAY AFFAIR INVOLVING THREE GENERATIONS OF THE MICHOPULU FAMILY. HANA'S ASSISTED BY HER DAUGHTERS ANNA AND MARIA AND THEIR GRANDMOTHER. AND JOINING US FOR DINNER, HANA'S HUSBAND, SISTER, AND FRIEND NORAH. THE FESTIVITIES BEGIN WITH ONE OF MY FAVORITE THINGS -- AN APERITIF. Hana: YOU KNOW IT, PROBABLY. PLUM BRANDY. YES, SLIVOVITZ. OKAY, CHEERS. WELCOME, WELCOME. CHEERS. THANKS SO MUCH FOR HAVING ME HERE. THE MICHOPULU FAMILY HAS FIXED A SPECIAL TREAT -- STUFFED YEAST BUNS TRADITIONALLY CARRIED BY TRAVELERS EMBARKING ON LONG JOURNEYS. GRANNY WOKE UP AT HALF PAST 4:00 TO MAKE IT REALLY FRESH. AND IT'S FILLED WITH VARIOUS FILLINGS. MM-HMM. AND THEN WE HAVE QUARK. AND IT'S NOT CREAM CHEESE. IT'S HARDER, LESS FAT, AND YES. AND PLUM MARMALADE SPECIALLY MADE. OH, THAT'S NICE. YES, REALLY. MMM. FOR SOME 700 YEARS, WE WERE A PART OF AUSTRIA-HUNGARY IN SPACE. THIS IS WHAT WE ARE FAMOUS FOR -- SWEETS AND PASTRY. AND TO THESE DAYS, AUSTRIAN DO THIS ACCORDING TO US. RIGHT. SO YOU CREATED IT. THEY GOT FAMOUS FOR IT. [ LAUGHS ] YES. I THINK YOU SHOULD TAKE A LOOK AT THE GOOSE. TELL HER HELLO BEFORE SHE WILL BE CUT. WHAT A MAGNIFICENT ANIMAL. THE GOOSE WAS RAISED OVER IN NEIGHBORING SLOVAKIA, WHERE IT'S SAID TO BE SOME OF THE BEST IN EUROPE. AND UNLIKE WHAT THE FRENCH OR I MIGHT DO WITH SUCH A MAGNIFICENT BIRD, AROUND THESE PARTS, THEY SEASON IT WITH CARAWAY AND SLOW-ROAST IT OVERNIGHT UNTIL IT'S COOKED THROUGH, YET STILL MOIST AND TENDER AS ALL GET OUT. I LOVE THIS FOOD. IT TOTALLY BLENDS, BECAUSE YOU HAVE EVERYTHING. YOU HAVE SWEET AND SOUR, FAT, AND BITTER FROM BEER -- EVERYTHING. THERE'S RED CABBAGE MADE WITH CINNAMON AND A LITTLE LEMON JUICE FOR ACIDITY TO GIVE IT THAT SWEET/SOUR COMPONENT THAT PUTS IT OVER THE EDGE FROM BEING JUST GOOD TO SOMETHING GREAT. AND, OF COURSE, GOT TO HAVE THE DUMPLINGS. BUT THESE HERE ARE SPECIAL, MADE BY GRANDMA AND WITH A SPECIALLY GROUND FLOUR THAT MAKES ALL THE DIFFERENCE TO THE DISCERNING CZECH. NOT DRY? IT'S DELICIOUS. NO, IT'S REALLY MOIST. THIS PLATE HAS EVERYTHING. YEAH. [ LAUGHS ] A LOT OF WHAT YOU SEE AS CZECH FOOD WE WOULD SEE AS DELI. CLASSIC DELI. SO RED CABBAGE, SAUERKRAUT -- THOSE FLAVORS WERE JUST FROM MY CHILDHOOD, THEY WERE FOREIGN, BUT ALSO OURS. I MEAN, THEY WERE ALSO SOMETHING THAT WE HAD ON A REGULAR BASIS, BUT NEVER AT HOME. MM-HMM. "LET'S GO FOR CABBAGE." "PLEASE, MAMA." YEAH, IT WAS LIKE GOING OUT FOR ICE CREAM. IT WAS A SPECIAL THING WE'D ALWAYS GET VERY EXCITED ABOUT. TRADITION, AS WE'VE SEEN, IS STILL VERY MUCH ALIVE FOR SURE IN THE CZECH REPUBLIC, AND CLEARLY, THE SOVIETS NEVER MANAGED TO KILL OFF THE IDEA OF EATING WELL, THOUGH NOT FOR LACK OF TRYING. OTHER THAN THIS LAST GREAT FAMILY MEAL AND AT LA DEGUSTATION, THE REPUBLIC OBVIOUSLY HAS A LONG WAY TO GO TO CATCH UP WITH THE EVER MORE FOOD CRAZY CHEF-CENTRIC WAYS OF FRANCE, SPAIN, THE U.K., EVEN GERMANY. BUT DON'T LET THOSE MOUNTAINS OF PORK, THE EVERYWHERE-YOU-LOOK GOULASH FOOL YOU. THAT STUFF IS GOOD, AND THEY'RE COMING ALONG FAST. IN THE MEANTIME, THERE'S BEER -- VERY, VERY GOOD BEER.