Recette Du Coulant Inversé Aux 2 Chocolats Par Aymeric Pataud

Hello Aymeric! Hello Philippe! I'm glad to have you again on our show Les Rencontres du Chef. So tell us about this new dessert recipe you're about to cook. Well, this dessert is called a 'reversed' chocolate coulant using dark and milk chocolate with an autumn fruit salsa (apple, pear and ginger) and a yuzu mascarpone mousse. A quick explanation why I call it a 'reversed' chocolate coulant. As some of you might already know, a chocolate coulant is a sort of molten or lava cake. Cooked on the outside and gooey inside. So this one is going to be the opposite: cooked inside and runny on the outside. We're going to cook the chocolate cake in a verrine or a small glass. Which means we won't need to remove it from any mould. Great, so where do we start? Let's start with the mascarpone mousse, as it needs to be reserved for a while to make sure it is firm enough and properly set at the time of serving. The ingredients are mascarpone, whole milk, liquid or whipping cream with a minimum of 30% fat content and icing sugar. This cream will be whipped using a siphon. Perfect. So in a mixing bowl, let's place the mascarpone and soften a bit with the milk. The fat content of the preparation is really important when using a cream whipper. It should be at least 15 or 20% for the air to incorporate, which ensures a sufficient crystallization of the fat and a better consistency. Now the consistency should be similar to whipping cream. Okay. It's good to beat with a whisk a little. Then let's add the icing sugar. Should the ingredients be cold? Well, if they are already, we won't have to reserve the cream in the fridge for very long. Otherwise, the cream should be refrigerated for at least 2 hours. What I like to do, to have a mousse that is well set, and the ingredients need to be cold for this is to place the whipper in the freezer for about 20 minutes. The result will be perfect. But, of course don't forget to take it out or the mousse will be completely frozen! Now, let's add the whipping cream. The flavour concentrate comes last. So yuzu is a citrus fruit from Japan, whose subtle flavours are a mix between mandarin orange and lemon. Some preparations will enhance the lemon flavour, and others mandarin. It is an extremely versatile fruit with a familiar taste. Its flavour is fresh and subtle at the same time. Following my training at the Ritz, I went to the Alternative Medicine College of Canada in Montreal to study the benefits of aromatic plants and essential oils. Then I returned to Réunion Island, where I was living before that, and I opened several restaurants. I developped an exclusive cuisine based on essentials oils and aromatic essences. Four years ago, I moved back to metropolitan France to create a unique range of 'Grands Crus' flavour concentrates made of 100% organic ingredients. So, with this organic yuzu flavour concentrate, we're going to use between 1 and 3 drops per person, or per 100 grams of preparation. This dessert serves 6 to 10 people. In other words, it can be served into small portions for 10 guests. Or we can make bigger portions, which will serve 6 people. What I mean by small portions is a miniature dessert for a café gourmand for example. The other option is a bigger portion for a more traditional dessert. Today, we're doing this recipe for 10 small portions. So we need at least 10 drops. To give you an idea, 10 drops is the equivalent of the zest of one yuzu. This bottle contains about 450 drops, in other words, the zest of 45 yuzu fruits. This is definitely one of the benefits of this range of flavour concentrates: the aroma is so powerful that you can immediately taste whether the intensity is sufficient, and this without changing the texture of the preparation, since we're adding a very small amount of liquid. Now, let's taste the preparation. Yes, this is very important, always taste as you go. Since the flavouring is immediate, we will know straight away if the intensity is what we want or if we need to add more drops. What about the fact we're going to use a cream whipper? Can it itensify or reduce the flavour? Actually, siphons tend to intensify the power of the flavour concentrate. So it is best to stop when the flavour is balanced and remember it will be enhanced with the siphon. We can already taste the yuzu. But I would suggest adding more drops because we want the yuzu to balance the strong chocolate and also the apple, pear and ginger. So the mousse should be quite powerful in taste. Let's add 10 drops. As we said earlier, it is best to use between 1 and 3 drops per person so for this recipe, between 10 and 30 drops. We used 20 drops in total. Now we're going to transfer the preparation into the cream whipper. We're going to charge it with two gas cartridges. Why using two cartridges? The first charger will release the air in the bottle and the second will ensure the pressure and consistency remain the same while piping the cream. As we're piping the cream, the gas continues to be released in the bottle. The mousse preparation is ready. Let's transfer it in the whipper. The cream whipper has been placed in the fridge beforehand so the bottle is cold before pouring the cream. This is essential: for the mousse to set, the ingredients and the bottle should be cold. Here, we're using the Gourmet Whip siphon by IsI which is one of the best on the market. It is really easy to use: simply pour the preparation in the bottle, then screw the lid back on. The charger holder is where the gas is placed, which is available in cartridges such as this one. A few recommendations on this product. The cream whipper should be thoroughly cleaned after each use to avoid any gas leaks. The seal and safety valves should be cleaned with the small brush supplied with the bottle. Also, the piping nozzle should be screwed off and cleaned like the valves. Gas leaks sometimes occur, they are usually caused by poor maintenance. Now, Aymeric, here is the cream whipper. You are using a funnel to pour the preparation. Yes, it is more convenient. Yes much more convenient, except if the preparation is thick, of course. Wider funnels are also available in our boutique and are suitable for iSi cream whippers. Make sure the bottle is not filled all the way up. Fill up to the three quarters of the bottle and the rest will be filled with the gas released from the cartridges. If you want, you can use a wider funnel for thicker preparations. It's time to screw the lid back on the bottle. There is a seal in the lid, always make sure the seal is there! It sometimes happens, you forget to check whether the seal is in the lid, and when you charge a cartridge, the gas will escape from the bottle. Another important point: Never unscrew the lid while there is gas in the bottle. Make sure you completely empty the bottle before opening it. So let's place the first cartridge in, we can hear the gas has been released. Remove the cartridge, you'll hear some gas escaping, it's completety normal. So let's charge the second cartridge, but this time, you can hear that very little gas has been released. The rest will transfer into the bottle as you're piping the cream. This means the pressure will remain exactly the same, whether you use the cream today or tomorrow, it will have the same consistency. Let's shake it a bit and we'll keep in the freezer for about 20 minutes. You can also leave it in the fridge for 2 hours if the ingredients are not cold to start with. We used cold ingredients, so 20 minutes in the freezer is perfect. I actually recommend making the mousse the day before if you can, it is better. Now, let's move on to the next step. We're going to prepare the autumn fruit salsa with apples, pears and ginger. We're going to cut the fruits into small dices which is called a 'brunoise'. That's for the apples and pears. Then we'll add the ginger flavour concentrate. And we'll place the preparation in the fridge a little. To make the brunoise, we're using the Alligator cutter designed for cutting onions, vegetables and fruits. So why is it called Alligator? Well, quite simply because it looks like the jaw of an alligator! You place the fruit on the grid then press the upper half down to make cubes. But we first need to slice the fruits. For this, we're going to use a Japanese mandoline. Start slicing the apple, always working around the core. Do the same for the pear. Mind your fingers! Obviously, you can also use a knife for this operation but that would take a lot more time, so it's up to you. Let's remove the stem from the pear then place a few slices on the grid. Only use a few slices at a time not to crush the fruits. As you can see we obtain a fine brunoise very quickly, directly in the plastic collector. We've sliced and diced the fruits in only 2 minutes. We now have a very fine brunoise, very regular with our autumn fruits, apple and pear. The finer the dices, the more subtle the taste. So let's transfer the preparation into a small bowl before adding the ginger flavour concentrate. So now the brunoise is in a bowl and we're going to add a few drops of the ginger flavour concentrate 'Grand Cru'. Same thing for this one: between 1 and 3 drops per person or per 100 grams of preparation. There are 2 varieties of ginger, so 2 types of extraction for this 100% organic ginger flavour concentrate. One 'lemony' ginger with notes of lemon and lime and a more traditional ginger. Two extractions for a single essential oil and a distillation that preserves all the flavours, as well as a CO2 extraction that preserves the powerful scents. This bottle contains the equivalent of several kilos of ginger. Three drops represent one slice of ginger, so this bottle of 450 drops is the equivalent of 150 slices of ginger. Considering how powerful ginger can be, you won't need much. In traditional ginger flavourings, you don't usually find this powerful, spicy note. We'll start with 6 drops that should be enough. Just a quick mention about the price of these flavour concentrates. One drop of flavour roughly costs between 1 and 6 Euro cents, according to the flavour. Yuzu flavour is about 1 cent and the Tahiti vanilla, which will be available soon, costs about 6 cents. Okay. Now, let's combine to incorporate the ginger notes. Any we haven't added any sugar at all. The great thing about this flavour concentrate is that it works immediately. Let's taste. We can really taste the apple and pear. Yes, absolutely. We don't have much juice here, but if we did, the preparation would probably be a bit more homogeneous. But this texture is fine too. We can really taste the ginger with these lemony notes. If you want a bit more kick, you can double the quantity of drops. But that's not really what we're looking for here. We want a dessert that is smooth and subtle so the ginger should not be too powerful. What about oxidation? Ginger is a natural antioxidant but we're still going to cover the bowl with cling film so that the fruits do not turn brown. Does it need to be refrigerated? Yes we're going to reserve it in the fridge. So now, last but not least, we're going to make the reversed chocolate coulant. In terms of ingredients, we need milk chocolate, dark chocolate, we're using chocolate from the Cacao Barry range, Ghana milk chocolate and Saint Domingue dark chocolate. We also need 3 whole eggs and whipping cream. As we said earlier, at least 30% fat content. In a saucepan, we're going to bring the whipping cream to a boil. Then pour over the chocolate pistoles. So the whipping cream is heating and at the first boil, pour directly over the chocolate and stir. The heat released from the cream causes the chocolate to melt. Aymeric, something that really surprises me in this recipe is that we're using hardly any sugar. Well, there already is sugar in the milk chocolate and also a little in dark chocolate, but essentially in milk chocolate obviously. And this dessert is not supposed to be very sweet. We want to play with the acidity of the apples and the sweetness of the mascarpone mousse, which contains 50 grams of sugar and the milk chocolate that is also quite sweet. So the chocolate has melted and the consistency is good. We're going to add the eggs. I'll let you crack them. The temperature of the preparation has reduced significantly so there is no risk for the eggs to coagulate. Let's stir to incorporate the eggs and the preparation is now ready. Transfer into a jug with a pouring spout. That will allow us to pour the preparation into verrines easily and neatly. So we're making small portions, a 'mini' dessert for 10 people. Fill the glasses halfway up. Now, we're going to cook the cakes in the microwave. Microwave cooking is interesting because it first cooks the inside... of ingredients. And this is exactly what we want here: we want the centre to be cooked, which means the eggs are going to coagulate, and we want the outside to be runny. We're going to cook the cakes on high power. For how long? Well, if you make small portions for a mini dessert, I suggest between 20 and 30 seconds. If you're cooking bigger portions, I'd say 30 to 40 seconds. Though the best is to work in periods of 15 or 20 seconds and check every time... if it is ready. A tip to check if the cakes are cooked: at some stage, you should see the centre swell up a bit. The outside should be gooey. You mentioned the cooking time for individual cakes but let's say I'm cooking for 6 or 8 guests and I need to cook 8 cakes at the same time in the microwave. Can I cook all the cake together at the same time? Does that impact the cooking time? Well, it's not proportional to the number of cakes, we're not going to do 30 seconds times 8 I mean. But I'd say that for 8 small desserts, it would probably take between 2 and 2.5 minutes on high power. Cook for one minute first, then check and repeat until we have the desired result. Of course, you can cook them for a bit longer if you want them less runny, it is up to you. So these 2 cakes have cooked for about 45 seconds in the microwave. We said 20 to 30 seconds for one cake and it took 45 seconds to cook two of them. Look. We can see the centre is like a hot mousse and the outside is still runny. We're now going to finish this dessert. It should be enjoyed hot, so it needs to be served pretty much immediately. On top the chocolate coulant, we're going to add a spoonful of the fruit salsa and a swirl of the yuzu mascarpone cream. Our range of organic 'Grand Cru' flavour concentrates have many benefits. First and foremost, should I say, is that these concentrate will adapt to your cuisine and not the opposite. They are a great ingredient for a creative, instinctive cuisine. In terms of quantity, as far as cold preparations are concerned, always count between 1 and 3 per person or per 100 grams of preparation. The flavour can be added at any stage in the preparation of a recipe. For hot preparations, when possible, the flavour shoud be added during the final stages of the recipe and this because these flavour concentrates tend to be volatile in hot environments and when subject to very high temperatures. So when possible, try to add the flavour drops at the last minute. For recipes such as gratins, tarts or cakes where you simply cannot add the flavour after cooking, double the quantities: instead of 1 to 3 drops per person or for 100 grams, use 2 to 6 drops per person or for 100 grams. So Aymeric, we're now finishing this dessert. The fruit salsa is out of the fridge, as well as the mascarpone mousse. You're going to show us how to associate the different preparations. So here are our two chocolate coulants. Let's add one spoonful of the apple pear and ginger preparation for a bit of crunch. It will also bring a bit of acidity. Very nice. We can really smell the ginger. The mascarpone mousse comes last. It should now be perfectly set. Use a tea towel just in case splashes of cream occur. Shake the bottle. Again, we left the siphon in the freezer for about 20 minutes, but make sure you don't leave it in there for longer! We're going to pipe very gently, always when using a whipper, never push the trigger all the way to avoid splashes. Gently press the trigger until the piping is regular. As a decorating touch, we're using a small pink biscuit, such as a 'biscuit rose de Reims', that we're going to grate over the cream using a Microplane grater. This is a great item to have in any kitchen with a sharp, serrated surface. Professionals and Chefs use it all the time. And, that's it. Our dessert is ready. Serve immediately while it is still hot. The heat can cause the cream to collapse so it should really be served straight away. Brilliant, this dessert looks delicious Aymeric! I am looking forward to seeing you again for another recipe. Thank you Philippe. I hope you enjoyed this video recipe. We will be back soon with another show on Les Rencontres du Chef!