London to Edinburgh

[ TRAIN CLACKING ] [ TRAIN WHISTLE BLOWS ] THE CLASSIC BRITISH CRIME FILM "GET CARTER" BEGINS ON A TRAIN. MICHAEL CAINE PLAYS A LONDON GANGSTER TRAVELING NORTH TO FIND OUT WHAT HAPPENED TO HIS DEAD BROTHER. I'M TRAVELING NORTH FROM LONDON TO EDINBURGH, ALSO TRYING TO FIND SOMETHING OUT, GROPING, TYPICALLY CLUELESS, TOWARDS A SLIGHTLY SMARTER PLACE, NAVIGATING A FEW GRAY AREAS. [ GUNSHOT ] IT'S NOT ALWAYS SO EASY. I'M ANTHONY BOURDAIN. ♪ THAT'S RIGHT ♪ I WRITE. I TRAVEL. I EAT. AND I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE. ♪ OOH ♪ ♪ YOU GOT TO ♪ ♪ GET LOST ♪ -- Captions by VITAC -- www.vitac.com CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY THE TRAVEL CHANNEL, L.L.C. SO, I RECORDED THIS THING WITH YOU THREE YEARS AGO. I HAVE, OF COURSE, IT SHOULD BE POINTED OUT, ZERO MUSICAL TALENT. KARAOKE IS MY DEEPEST, DARKEST FEAR. POETRY -- FORGET IT. BACK IN LONDON, REVISITING MY FRIEND PAUL GODFREY FROM THE BRITISH TRIP-HOP BAND MORCHEEBA. MORCHEEBA -- THE MOST IMPORTANT BAND IN RECORDING HISTORY SINCE THE RAMONES. WE TEND TO ROCK SOFTER THAN THE RAMONES. YEAH. [ LAUGHS ] I WENT IN THERE, AND I READ A PARAGRAPH OF STUFF THAT I HAD WRITTEN, AND AND I FIGURED, I GUESS, YOU KNOW, I'LL SEE YOU GUYS IN SIX MONTHS. YOU HAVEN'T EVEN HEARD IT. IT SOUNDS AMAZING. YOU WANT TO HEAR IT? YEAH. HOW BIG DO YOU WANT TO HEAR IT? WE HAVE BIG, MEDIUM, AND LITTLE SPEAKERS. YOU KNOW, I'M 51 NOW. I'M GUESSING MEDIUM. OKAY. [ VIBRATING ] "SHE'S GOT BURNS ON HER FOREARMS, "ANGRY RED AND PINK STRIPES FROM THE OVENS AND GRILL. "AND SHE DROPS HER PANTS IN THE LOCKER ROOM WITH THE BOYS, "CLIMBS INTO HER CHECKS "AND HER DOUBLE-BREASTED CHEF COAT AND HER CLOGS "AND SHE HUMPS UP THE STAIRS "WITH THE REST OF US TO WORK THE LINE. "150 RESERVATIONS TONIGHT. "AND A HALF-HOUR IN, AND WE'RE RIGHT ON THE EDGE, SECONDS AWAY FROM FALLING INTO THE WEEDS." I WROTE THIS SHORT STORY A WHILE BACK ABOUT A HARDWORKING LINE COOK -- TOUGH, UNCOMPROMISING, GOES HER OWN WAY, APOLOGIZES FOR NOTHING -- SOMETHING IN COMMON WITH THE CHEFS I MOST ADMIRE IN ENGLAND. "ORDERS COMING IN, PRINTER SPITTING OUT TICKETS "WITH A RELENTLESS CLACK, CLACK, CLACK. "WAITERS ARE FREAKING. "THE BUSBOYS SQUEEZING BY WITH HEAPS OF DIRTY DISHES, "FOOD GOING OUT -- FOOD GOING OUT IN THE PASS, IN THE WINDOW. "THE CHEF CALLING ORDERS, GETTING HOARSE NOW -- "SOUNDS LIKE TOM WAITS. "LISA KEEPS HER COOL. "SHE'S STONE-COLD IN THE SWELTERING HEAT. SHE'S STONE-COLD IN THE SWELTERING HEAT." TODAY I FIND MYSELF BACK IN LONDON WITH AN OPPORTUNITY TO, ONCE AGAIN, WORK WITH A BAND I'VE ADMIRED FOR SOME TIME. IS THERE ANY POSSIBILITY THAT THIS WILL ACTUALLY END UP IN A RELEASED RECORDING? I WANT TO MAKE A [BLEEP] RECORD, MAN. WELL, LET'S DO IT. BUT I'M NOT HERE TO FULFILL SOME SHATNER-ESQUE FANTASY OF A RECORDING CAREER. I'LL DO ONE SLOW AND THEN ONE FAST. THIS WAS NOT A TOUGH ASSIGNMENT. NEED ANOTHER SHOW. LONDON -- LONDON, GOOD. FOR ME, THERE'S NO OTHER CITY LIKE IT. IT'S A SECOND HOME. I MEAN, COME ON, I GOT FRIENDS HERE. I KNOW EXACTLY WHERE TO STAY. I KNOW JUST WHERE TO FIND A GOOD PINT AND WHERE TO FIND SOMETHING GOOD TO EAT. EASY CALL. SOMETHING GOOD TO EAT, YOU SAY? PEAS AND CABBAGE, FISH AND CHIPS, WARM BEER -- THE FOOD OF ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND HAS NEVER HAD THE BEST REPUTATION. WHETHER THIS OLD CHESTNUT IS TRUE OR NOT IS BESIDES THE POINT. THE FACT IS, THE FOOD HERE HAS HAD A BAD RAP FOR A LONG TIME. Man: OH, MAN, NO. DON'T -- NO, DON'T -- NO. SO I FIND MYSELF ON A JOURNEY THROUGH THE U.K. CONSUMED BY A FEW SIMPLE QUESTIONS. WHY THE BAD REPUTATION? ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND HAVE A TRADITION OF GREAT INGREDIENTS, SO WHAT'S CHANGING, AND WHO'S MAKING THESE CHANGES? BECAUSE THINGS HAVE STARTED TO CHANGE, AND TRADITIONAL BRITISH FOOD IN THE HANDS OF A FEW CHEFS CAN BE A TRULY WONDERFUL THING. Man: SERVICE, PLEASE. OH, YEAH. LOOK AT THAT. IN FACT, THE WHOLE IDEA OF THE MODERN CELEBRITY CHEF AS WE KNOW IT -- THAT ALL STARTED WITH MARCO -- PIRATICAL MISFIT... White: DO YOU LIKE RIFLES? Bourdain: YES, I DO. MIGHT SPY A VEGETARIAN. ONE OR TWO A YEAR. YEAH, THEY MAKE BAD EATING. [ LAUGHS ] ...VAGUELY ROCK 'N' ROLL... BY THE WAY, I DON'T DRIVE. I'M OVER THE LIMIT. I'VE GOT NO INSURANCE, BUT WE'RE FINE. ...AND BRILLIANTLY TALENTED. [ GUN *** ] MARCO PIERRE WHITE -- HE SINGLE-HANDEDLY CHANGED BRITAIN'S CULINARY DESTINY... [ GUNSHOT ] [ GUN *** ] IT'S TIME FOR A CIGARETTE. ...AND HE CHANGED THE WORLD'S VIEW OF THE CHEF. MARCO PIERRE WHITE -- THE MAN, THE LEGEND. IN 1994, 33-YEAR-OLD MARCO BECAME THE YOUNGEST BRITISH CHEF TO WIN THE ULTIMATE HONOR OF THREE MICHELIN STARS. BUT IT WASN'T THE STARS THAT INSPIRED US. IT WAS THIS PHOTO. FROM THE MOMENT MY COOK FRIENDS AND I SAW IT IN ALL ITS HAGGARD, DEBAUCHED, OBSESSIVELY DRIVEN GLORY, IT CHANGED OUR LIVES. WE WERE ALL STANDING AROUND MY KITCHEN. WE TOOK A LOOK AT THAT PICTURE AND SAID, "OH, MY GOD. "HE LOOKS LIKE US. HE'S NOT SOME FAT FRENCHMAN. THERE MIGHT BE ROOM IN THIS LIFE FOR US." IT REPRESENTS A PERIOD IN TIME OF THAT ROCK-'N'-ROLL PERIOD IN GASTRONOMY. IT WAS PEOPLE LIKE YOURSELF. IT WAS PEOPLE LIKE ME. WE'RE TWO OF THOSE WHO MADE COOKING SEXY, 'CAUSE IT WASN'T [BLEEP] SEXY. NO, IT WAS A PROFESSION FOR MISFITS AND LOSERS. GOD, I WAS A GREAT MISFIT. IN 1999, HE DID SOMETHING ELSE UNPRECEDENTED. AT THE VERY PEAK OF HIS FAME, POWER, AND SUCCESS, HE RETURNED HIS MICHELIN STARS AND ANNOUNCED HIS RETIREMENT FROM THE KITCHEN. HE REMAINS A RESTAURATEUR, AN ENTREPRENEUR, BUSINESSMAN, AND GRAY EMINENCE, A RATHER MERCURIAL, YET STILL DOMINATING PRESENCE -- HALF IN, HALF OUT IN SELF-IMPOSED EXILE. SO, HOW OFTEN DO YOU DO THIS? I DO THIS... FIVE TIMES A WEEK, FOUR TIMES A WEEK. YOU KNOW, IT'S JUST AN ESCAPE. IT CLEARS YOUR MIND. IF I'M REALLY HONEST WITH MYSELF, WHAT I'M REALLY DOING IS RELIVING MY CHILDHOOD, ANTHONY. WHEN MY MOM DIED, I BECAME VERY MUCH A LONER, AND SO I WAS ALWAYS FISHING OR BIRD-NESTING OR SHOOTING -- POACHING PHEASANTS FOR MY POCKET MONEY. AND SO, WHEN I RETIRED FROM COOKING, THE NEXT FIVE YEARS OF MY LIFE WAS BASICALLY RELIVING THE CHILDHOOD I'D HAD AS A BOY, AND I DID EXACTLY THE SAME THINGS THAT I DID WHEN MY MOM HAD DIED. I HID FROM THE WORLD. HE'S REDISCOVERED WHAT INSPIRED HIM LONG BEFORE THE MICHELIN SPOTLIGHT -- THE ENGLISH COUNTRYSIDE. HOW MANY TIMES I'VE SEEN WOOD PIGEONS EATING THE ELDERBERRIES. YOU KNOW, AND I THOUGHT, "LET'S ROAST A PIGEON WITH ELDERBERRIES." IT'S DELICIOUS. I LOVE WILD APPLES, AND HOW MANY TIMES DO YOU SEE PHEASANTS PICKING ON THEM WHEN THEY'VE DROPPED ON THE GROUND? IT'S LIKE SHOOTING A RABBIT AND THEN BAKING IT IN HAY. IT WORKS. I KNEW IT WORKS. AND WHAT DOES A RABBIT LOVE TO EAT? HAY. SO THAT CLASSIC COMBINATION MAKES SENSE. MOTHER NATURE TELLS US EVERYTHING. WE'RE NOT THE GENIUSES, ARE WE? WE'RE JUST THE TECHNICIANS. THE MOST INSPIRING IDEAS AND DEFINING INGREDIENTS ARE LITERALLY RIGHT IN THEIR SIGHTS. ANTHONY, TAKE THE ONE ON THE OUTSIDE, THE DARKER ONE. SAY WHEN. YEAH, GO FOR IT. [ GUNSHOT ] WELL SHOT. MARCO EMERGES FROM THE WOODS, DEER IN TOW, AND GIVES A *** HUNTER HIS BAPTISM INTO THE TRIBE. THIS IS THE RITUAL. THERE YOU ARE. WELL DONE. LOOK AT THAT. PERFECT. [ LAUGHS ] THE GODS ARE LOOKING ON YOU. MARCO'S LATEST VENTURE IS PERHAPS TO THE TASTE OF A MORE SPECIALIZED CLIENTELE -- HIMSELF. THE YEW TREE INN, NESTLED IN THE ENGLISH COUNTRYSIDE -- IT'S A REFUGE, A CLUBHOUSE, A LOVE LETTER TO MARCO'S LOST CHILDHOOD, AND ABOVE ALL ELSE, A CELEBRATION OF THE CLASSIC BRITISH COUNTRY FARE HE LOVED. WHILE OUR FURRY WOODLAND FRIEND IS BEING TENDED TO IN THE KITCHEN, MARCO AND I SETTLE IN WITH A SELECTION FROM THE WINE CELLAR. THIS MENU -- IT'S AN AMAZING HISTORICAL DOCUMENT. THERE'S A LOT OF TRADITIONAL BRITISH DISHES, BUT THERE'S ALSO KIND OF A HISTORY. THE HISTORY OF FRENCH COOKING IN ENGLAND -- White: IT'S LIKE AN OLD-FASHIONED OCEAN-LINER MENU. IT'S A BIT OF ENGLAND, AND I LOVE ENGLAND. IT'S A MIND-BLOWING MUSEUM OF FOOD. FOR ME, A TRIP DOWN MEMORY LANE. FOR MARCO, THE GREATEST HITS OF HIS CAREER AND A SPRINKLING OF DINOSAUR GREATS. CROUSTADE QUAIL'S EGGS WITH HOLLANDAISE SAUCE, ROAST VENISON, AND THIS CREATION -- THE UNAPOLOGETICALLY SIMPLE YET DECADENT OMELET ARNOLD BENNETT, NAMED AFTER A FAMOUS 19th-CENTURY ENGLISH NOVELIST. ALL CLASSIC DISHES FROM THE ERA OF LEGENDARY FRENCH CHEF ESCOFFIER. THIS IS ESCOFFIER, INVENTED FOR ARNOLD BENNETT AT THE SAVOY. IS THAT DELICIOUS? AND THE SECRET IS, YOU COOK IT IN THE PAN. YOU DON'T TURN IT. AND THEN YOU SLIDE IT ONTO A COLD PLATE TO STOP THE COOKING. AND THEN YOU PUT YOUR SMOKED HADDOCK ON, SAUCE OVER, CLEAN YOUR PLATE, ONTO THE GRILL. WHO SERVES THIS? DOES ANYONE DO THIS ANYMORE ANYWHERE? NO. ALL I'M DOING IS BRINGING A BIT OF THE OLD WORLD INTO THE MODERN WORLD. AND YOU WON'T GET MUCH MORE OLD-WORLD THAN THIS -- ROAST PARTRIDGE à LA ANGLAISE, AN HOMAGE TO A LONG-STANDING ENGLISH TRADITION. AND THAT'S HOW WE'VE EATEN IT FOR YEARS. AND I JUST THINK IT'S VERY IMPORTANT TO RETAIN THOSE OLD-FASHIONED SKILLS. PAN ROASTED WITH BACON AND PRESENTED WITH ENGLISH SAUSAGES, CHESTNUTS, BRUSSELS SPROUTS, A MOUSSE-SMEARED CROUTON USUALLY MADE FROM ITS OWN LIVER -- THE BEST OF ENGLAND ON A PLATE. OH, YEAH. BUT IT ISN'T COMPLETE WITHOUT THE ULTIMATE BRITISH CONDIMENT -- BREAD SAUCE. DO YOU HAVE BREAD SAUCE IN -- NO. IT'S JUST BREAD AND MILK WITH THE FAT FROM THE JUICES. THERE YOU ARE. OH, FANTASTIC. HOW'S YOUR PARTRIDGE? MM-HMM. SO TENDER AND DELICIOUS. SPLENDID, BUT I'VE GOT TO SAY, I DID LOVE YOU SHOOTING THAT DEER TODAY. YOU DIDN'T GIVE ME AN OPPORTUNITY TO THINK ABOUT IT. IT WAS LIKE, "OKAY, TAKE HIM DOWN. THERE'S YOUR TARGET." I CAN'T SAY I'M A NATURAL-BORN HUNTER, BUT IT SEEMED IMPORTANT TO MY FRIEND MARCO. THERE YOU ARE. HE CELEBRATES MY FIRST SUCCESSFUL HUNT BY SURPRISING ME WITH THE DEER'S FRESHLY PREPARED LIVER. MARCO PIERRE WHITE INSPIRED COUNTLESS YOUNG CHEFS LIKE I ONCE WAS TO MAKE THEIR OWN WAY IN THE RESTAURANT WORLD, TO FIND THEIR OWN PATH TO THE FUTURE OF COOKING, AND HE STILL FORGES HIS OWN CURIOUS PATH, THIS TIME, I THINK, ONE LEADING HOME TO A CHILDHOOD HE NEVER QUITE HAD. GETTING TO THE BOTTOM OF CENTURIES OF BRITISH TRADITION. EVERYBODY IN ENGLAND WANTS TO DRESS UP IN WOMEN'S UNDERWEAR AND GET SPANKED. IS THAT TRUE, BY THE WAY? YEAH, YEAH, ABSOLUTELY. COMING UP NEXT. THERE ARE CERTAIN CITIES WHERE I HAVE A HOME BASE. LONDON IS ONE OF THOSE CITIES. AND IN THE HEART OF THE SOHO THEATRE DISTRICT IN THREE GEORGIAN BUILDINGS THAT DATE BACK TO 1718, THERE'S A PERSONAL OASIS OF MINE CALLED HAZLITT'S, A BOUTIQUE HOTEL THAT CATERS TO A LOT OF WRITERS. NOW, ONE OF THE THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THIS HOTEL, RIGHT, IS EVERYTHING'S KIND OF ON THIS SLANT. I ALWAYS FEEL LIKE I'M ON A LISTING SHIP. THE DOORS DON'T, KIND OF, ACTUALLY MEET THE FLOOR... ...AND THE FURNITURE TILTS. THAT'S ONE OF THE THINGS I REALLY LIKE ABOUT THIS HOTEL. I MEAN, THIS WHOLE HOTEL IS KOOKY. WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING AT? THIS IS A VERY AUTHOR-HEAVY HOTEL, ALWAYS HAS BEEN, GOING BACK YEARS AND YEARS AND YEARS AND YEARS. SO, LET'S SEE WHO'S BEEN BY LATELY. PETER BISCUIT, MICHAEL BEAVER, RODDY DOYLE -- LIKE HIM. AND SAUL McANERNEY'S BEEN THROUGH A FEW TIMES. [ SCOFFS ] NOAM CHOMSKY. I THINK HE'S BEEN IN HERE ENOUGH. OKAY, I DON'T SEE MINE. I GUESS THEY ROTATE THEM THROUGH. I'LL SHOW THEM ANTHONY BOURDAIN WAS HERE. SO LONG, AMERICA-HATING, CRACKPOT GENIUS. [ WHISTLES ] YEP, I NEED AN OASIS LIKE HAZLITT'S WHEN I COME TO LONDON, AND IT'S CRAWLING DISTANCE FROM MY OLD HAUNTS AND OLD FRIENDS. [ INDISTINCT CONVERSATIONS ] [ BUZZ ] PULL THE DOOR. JERRY'S -- A MEMBERS-ONLY BASEMENT CLUB, PERHAPS THE MOST NOTORIOUS IN A NEIGHBORHOOD OF BASEMENT CLUBS, CARRYING ON THE TRADITION OF OLD-SCHOOL SOHO DEBAUCHERY, WHERE AN OLD FRIEND TENDS BAR AND HAS A SURPRISE IN STORE. HE WAS THERE. [ CLAPS HANDS ] ♪ AND THEN HE WASN'T THERE ♪ ♪ A KIND OF LIMEY GUARDIAN ANGEL ♪ PHIL DIRTBOX IS A LEGENDARY BARMAN, PARTY PROMOTER, POET IN RESIDENCE, AND SOHO FIXTURE, SO IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR A BIT OF OLD SOHO WHERE THE WEIRDNESS WAS AND IN SOME CASES STILL IS, YOU CAN HARDLY DO BETTER THAN HAVE PHIL AS YOUR MAN. IF YOUR SON IS SMOKING CRACK OR YOUR DAUGHTER'S IN A CHILD-*** RING, WANGLING TO GET BACK... THEN HE WON'T CHARGE YOU ANYTHING. [ CHEERS AND APPLAUSE ] [ SPEAKING INDISTINCTLY ] SOHO -- IMAGINE A DELIGHTFUL MéLANGE OF TIMES SQUARE, GREENWICH VILLAGE, AND BOURBON STREET, AND YOU'LL GET SOME IDEA OF WHAT THIS AREA FEELS LIKE AT NIGHT. NO, NO BOTTLE. NO, NO. FOR LOCALS, IT REPRESENTS A COSMOPOLITAN, TOLERANT, AND CULTURALLY IMPORTANT COMMUNITY. FOR MANY VISITORS, IT'S A FREE LICENSE TO GET PISSED, ACT LIKE A SHAMELESS ***, AND GENERALLY MAKE A PUBLIC IDIOT OF YOURSELF IN THE NAME OF HAVING FUN. ***! ***! IT'S ALWAYS BEEN KIND OF ***-TONK, PEEP SHOWS, STRIP CLUBS, CASINOS, THE DODGY CLUBS. HOW LONG HAS IT BEEN LIKE THAT? WELL, SINCE THE TURN OF THE CENTURY. BUT FOR PHIL, IT'S JUST A PLACE HE CALLS HOME. [ CHEERING ] [ LAUGHTER ] Woman: WHAT'S YOUR NAME? PHIL. [ LAUGHTER ] NICELY DONE. SO, HOW LONG HAVE YOU EITHER LIVED OR WORKED IN SOHO? I'VE WORKED IN SOHO -- I STARTED RUNNING CLUBS IN SOHO IN 1979. AND LIVED HERE? OFF AND ON. I'VE ALWAYS COME BACK TO SOHO. THAT'S MY FLAT. AND I LIVE ON THE THIRD FLOOR, BETWEEN A BROTHEL AND A RECORDING STUDIO. IT'S REALLY, REALLY QUIET. WATCH YOUR BACK. BROTHELS ARE, IN FACT, A COMMON SIGHT IN SOHO, LONG SINCE GROUND ZERO FOR THE LONDON SEX INDUSTRY. IN FACT, SOHO'S ROOTS AS A ONE-STOP SHOP FOR VICE GOES BACK HUNDREDS OF YEARS. THE MOST FAMOUS BROTHEL DOWN HERE WAS CALLED "KITTY FISHER'S HOUSE OF CORRECTION." YOU USED TO GET THIS MASSIVE BENCH WITH FOUR BLOKES IN LOINCLOTHS... TURNING THE CRANK? AND SPANKING 40 DIFFERENT PEOPLE AT THE SAME TIME. THAT WOULDN'T FLY IN AMERICA AT ANY TIME IN OUR HISTORY, OKAY? THAT WAS BEFORE YOUR HISTORY. [ LAUGHS ] THIS FITS RIGHT IN WITH OUR SINISTER PRECONCEPTIONS ABOUT ENGLAND. EVERYBODY IN ENGLAND, ESSENTIALLY, WANTS TO DRESS UP IN WOMEN'S UNDERWEAR AND GET SPANKED. IS THAT TRUE, BY THE WAY? YEAH, YEAH, ABSOLUTELY. COME HERE, LADS. COME HERE. PHIL STILL MAINTAINS A SORT OF RINGLEADER-EMERITUS STATUS IN THIS PART OF TOWN. CHEERS. WHO BETTER TO BEAR WITNESS TO THE CHANGES -- BOTH GOOD AND BAD? SEE THIS SHOP HERE? THIS BEAD SHOP HERE -- FOR 250 YEARS, THIS IS PORT ONE, THE GREATEST BUTCHER SHOP IN THE WHOLE OF SOHO. I MEAN, IT WAS A QUID FOR A SLICE OF BACON, BUT [BLEEP] IT WAS REALLY GOOD BACON. BUT WHEN WAS THIS A BUTCHER SHOP? UNTIL TWO YEARS AGO. AND THERE'S ANOTHER BEAD SHOP AROUND THE CORNER. I MEAN, HOW MANY BEAD SHOPS DO YOU NEED... [ LAUGHS ] ...IN LIKE 50 YARDS OF EACH OTHER? IT WAS JUST A TRAGIC, TRAGIC THING. NOW THE ONLY OTHER BUTCHER IN THE WHOLE OF SOHO IS LEE HO *** IN CHINATOWN. SO, BASICALLY, TO GET ORIGINAL BRITISH INGREDIENTS THESE DAYS RAW, YOU GOT TO GO TO THE CHINESE. YES. IT'S LIKE NEW YORK. IT COULD HAVE BEEN WORSE. IT COULD HAVE BEEN ANOTHER STARBUCKS, BUT THAT'S COLD COMFORT AT BEST. WHEN THE NEIGHBORHOOD BUTCHER FADES INTO EXTINCTION, IT'S A PAINFUL REMINDER OF HOW CHANGING TIMES AND CHANGING TASTES CAN ROB US OF SOMETHING GOOD AND IMPORTANT AND IRREPLACEABLE FOREVER. BY NOW PHIL AND I HAVE PARTED WAYS, AND AS THE MEMORY OF ONE SOHO MEAT MARKET FADES, ANOTHER ONE ACROSS LONDON IS JUST GETTING STARTED. SMITHFIELD MARKET -- FOR MORE THAN 800 YEARS, MEAT HAS BEEN BUTCHERED, BOUGHT, AND SOLD HERE. ORIGINALLY ESTABLISHED ON A SLOPING MEADOW SO THAT THE GORE COULD EASILY WASH OFF, IN 1868, THIS CAVERNOUS TEMPLE TO THE SELLING OF FLESH AND BONE WAS BUILT -- A MASTERPIECE OF DESIGN. AS NIGHT TURNS TO EARLY MORNING, THE PLACE SWARMS WITH LONDON SUPPLIERS PICKING UP THEIR ORDERS... NOT THE PLASTIC-WRAPPED STUFF HERE. EVERYTHING -- NOSE TO TAIL. JASON ANDREWS SELLS OFFAL, SUPPLYING LOCAL BUSINESSES FOR MORE THAN 20 YEARS JUST AS HIS FATHER AND GRANDFATHER DID BEFORE HIM. OFFAL IS THE INSIDES OF THE ANIMALS. OX LIVER. PORK CHEEK. THERE'S YOUR LAMB'S KIDNEY. OX TRIPE. LAMB TESTICLES. YEAH. PIG'S PLUCK. WE'VE GOT THE TONGUE WITH THE THROAT AND THE HEART, THE LUNGS, AND THE LIVER. AS MORE PEOPLE TURN TO SUPERMARKETS, THE FUTURE OF SMITHFIELD MARKET IS UNCERTAIN, AND WHAT WILL HAPPEN TO BUTCHERS LIKE JASON UNCLEAR. A LOT OF THE PEOPLE NOW DON'T REALLY EAT OFFAL. IT'S A DYING TREND. YEARS AGO, WE OLD PEOPLE, WE USED TO EAT IT BECAUSE IT WAS THE CHEAPER PRODUCT. NOWADAYS, MAJORITY OF KIDS PROBABLY NEVER HEARD OF IT. FOR MORE THAN 800 YEARS, SMITHFIELD HAS BEEN A VITAL INSTITUTION, A LIVING LANDMARK. BUT IN AN ERA OF SHIFTING TASTES AND WANING TRADITIONS, IT'S NOT CLEAR WHAT'S ON THE HORIZON. IN THE MEANTIME FOR THE BUTCHERS AT SMITHFIELD, IT'S ANOTHER GOOD NIGHT OF WORK AND A HARD-EARNED, HONEST BREAKFAST BEFORE BED. Bourdain: I CAN TELL ALREADY THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT I LOVE. YOU CAN FEEL IT. A DISH SO PAINFULLY GOOD, IT MAY BE MY NEW DEATH-ROW MEAL. I THOUGHT I WAS GONNA PASS OUT THERE FOR A MINUTE. IT WAS THAT GOOD. COMING UP NEXT. SMITHFIELD MARKET -- FOR 800 YEARS, THE CENTER OF LONDON BUTCHERING TRADE. DESPITE CHANGING TASTES AND TIMES, ONE THING STAYS THE SAME AS IT EVER WAS WHEN THE SHIFT ENDS. SMITHFIELD BUTCHERS HEAD FOR SOME QUALITY TIME AND A NUTRITIOUS BREAKFAST AT THE ***, SITUATED DIRECTLY BELOW THE MARKET. THEY'VE BEEN COMING HERE FOR AN EARLY-MORNING PINT AND SOME OLD-SCHOOL WORKING-MAN'S FARE FOR OVER 50 YEARS. SO I'M MEETING UP WITH JASON AND HIS FRIEND BIFFO FOR STRAIGHT-UP, WORKING-CLASS CLASSICS LIKE THIS ONE -- THE BUTCHER'S BREAKFAST, A FULL-BLOWN ASSAULT ON THE ARTERIES. NO WHOLE-WHEAT TOAST, YOGURT, OR MUESLI IN SIGHT... WHOA, BEAUTIFUL. ...JUST A PROPERLY POURED PINT, EGGS, BLACK PUDDING, CALF'S LIVER, AND DEVILED KIDNEYS. I KNOW THEY'RE FRESH. SEE, THAT'S A HEALTHY BREAKFAST. WHEN YOU SAY, LIKE, BREAKFAST TO YOU, YOU KNOW, WE'VE BEEN UP HERE SINCE 12:00, 1:00. TO ME, THIS IS LIKE LUNCH, DINNER, ISN'T IT? I'M GOING TO WORK AFTER THIS. YOU'RE GONNA HAVE A NAP. WE'RE GOING TO BED. AN EARLY-MORNING PINT OR TWO AND THE BUTCHER'S BREAKFAST ARE STILL THE MAINSTAY HERE. BUT HERE, TOO, THE NEIGHBORHOOD IS CHANGING, SHIFTING AWAY FROM ITS HARD-SCRABBLE PAST TOWARDS A TRENDY MEAT-DISTRICT NEIGHBORHOOD OF LOFTS AND SMART RESTAURANTS. AS THE NEIGHBORHOOD CHANGES, TO DOES THE NATURE OF THE TRADE. YOU'RE SAYING NOBODY'S COMING INTO THE BUSINESS TO LEARN THE TRADE ANYMORE. USED TO, YEARS AGO. YOUNG PEOPLE DON'T WANT TO BOTHER, BECAUSE THE HOURS YOU WORK -- IT DOES PUT A STRAIN ON YOUR MARRIAGE OR YOUR GIRLFRIEND. YOU HAVEN'T GOT A FAMILY LIFE. IT'S A REMARKABLE, IF PAINFUL, IRONY THAT WHILE DEMAND FOR OFFAL AMONG THE WORKING CLASSES HAS PLUMMETED, ON THE OTHER END OF THE DINING SPECTRUM, FOODIES AND FINE-DINING TYPES ARE SHELLING OUT THE BIG BUCKS FOR INGREDIENTS THE POOR ONCE HAD TO EAT. NO ONE HAS BEEN A BIGGER INFLUENCE ON THIS CHANGE THAN THE WALKING BUDDHA HIMSELF, THE SPIRITUAL LEADER OF ALL NOSE-TO-TAIL PORK-CENTRIC AFICIONADOS, FERGUS HENDERSON. DO YOU KNOW THIS GUY FERGUS HENDERSON? HE HAS THE RESTAURANT JUST OVER THERE -- ST. JOHN. YEAH, HE'S DOING A LOT OF OFFAL NOW, ISN'T HE? A LOT, AND HE'S BEEN DOING IT FOR SOME TIME. AND HE'S A VERY INFLUENTIAL GUY AS FAR AS CHANGING WHAT CHEFS WANT TO SERVE IN THEIR RESTAURANT. WELL, HE'S THE ONLY ONE THAT I KNOW THAT DOES IT. OBVIOUSLY, YOU KNOW, BRINGING IT BACK. YEAH. BRINGING IT BACK. WHEN FERGUS HENDERSON OPENED ST. JOHN RESTAURANT AND SOON AFTER PUBLISHED HIS NOSE-TO-TAIL COOKBOOK, HE GAVE ALL US WHO COOKED ANYWHERE IN THE WESTERN WORLD PERMISSION TO REDISCOVER THE TRULY TASTY MYSTERIES OF OTHER PARTS. HE REFOCUSED ATTENTION ON A MUCH-MALIGNED AND GROSSLY UNDERAPPRECIATED CULINARY TRADITION. I'M HEADING OVER TO HIS NEWEST PLACE, ST. JOHN BREAD AND WINE, TO SEE MY OLD FRIEND. HEY. NICE TO SEE YOU, ANTHONY. Bourdain: I HAD AN INTERESTING BREAKFAST AT THE ***. I WAS TALKING TO A COUPLE OF OLD-TIME BUTCHERS, AND HE WAS TALKING ABOUT, NO ONE'S GETTING INTO THE BUTCHER BUSINESS ANYMORE. Henderson: THE MARKET IS DECREASING IN SIZE BECAUSE BUTCHERS USE THE MARKETS. THE SUPERMARKETS DON'T. EVERYONE'S MUCH HAPPIER GOING TO GET A NORMAL PIECE OF MEAT IN PLASTIC IN A SUPERMARKET. WHY IS THAT STILL HAPPENING? I MEAN, EVERYBODY'S FOOD-CRAZY AND CHEF-CRAZY. THERE'S SO MUCH ON TELLY. THERE'S SO MUCH IN THE PAPERS. EVERYONE FEELS THEY'VE ACQUIRED THIS INCREDIBLE KNOWLEDGE ABOUT FOODS. SO, THEY'RE LOOKING AT IT, BUT THEY'RE NOT EATING IT? NOT A MISTAKE I RISK MAKING. ROASTED BONE MARROW WITH TOASTED BREAD, PARSLEY CAPER SALAD, AND A LITTLE SEA SALT -- MY SINGLE FAVORITE DISH IN THE WORLD AND MY CURRENT DEATH-ROW MEAL. YOU KNOW, IT'S ONE OF THE WORLD'S GREAT IDEAS. JUST SO SIMPLE, DELICIOUS, UNCTUOUS. I'VE REALLY COME TO LEARN TO LOVE THAT ACID NOTE OF PARSLEY. THE SALT IS VITAL. OH, THAT'S GOT TO BE DONE. A LITTLE SEA SALT. IT'S PERFECT. AND THIS INCREDIBLE STEWED PIG'S HEAD WITH BACON -- THE PERFECT MIX OF FAT AND LEAN, NATURAL GELATIN, CHEEK, AND TONGUE. AH. HERE'S THE PIG'S HEAD. OH, YEAH. OH, MY GOD. ALL THAT PRETTY STUFF IN THERE. ONE OF MY FAVORITE BITS. OH. THAT'S EXTRAORDINARY. PERFECT DISH. OR SO I THOUGHT. THIS NEXT DISH TAKES THINGS TO A WHOLE NEW LEVEL ENTIRELY. THE ENGLISH BLOOD CAKE, TREATED, FINALLY, WITH THE RESPECT AND FRENCH TECHNIQUE IT HAS ALWAYS DESERVED. Man: SERVICE, PLEASE. OH, BLOOD CAKE. OH, NOW THAT IS A THING OF BEAUTY. I CAN TELL ALREADY THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT I LOVE. YOU CAN FEEL IT. OH, YEAH. LOOK AT THAT. IT'S ABSOLUTELY FIENDISH TO PUT IT TOGETHER WITH AN EGG. OH, MAN. [ SIGHS ] THAT'S OUTRAGEOUSLY GOOD. MY COMPLAINT WITH THE GREAT ENGLISH BLACK PUDDING IS IT'S DRY AS ALL [BLEEP] YOU LOSE ALL OF WHAT MAKES BLOOD GREAT. THIS IS WHAT BLACK PUDDING SHOULD BE. I AGREE. [ LAUGHS ] THE VERY BEST INGREDIENTS, THE BEST POSSIBLE EXECUTION TO HONOR THESE INGREDIENTS, AND A LOVE FOR WHAT IT MEANS, HAS MEANT, AND SHOULD MEAN, TO COOK AND DINE AS AN ENGLISHMAN. I WAS TALKING TO MARCO ABOUT THIS, AND I'LL ASK YOU. WHERE DID ENGLAND GO WRONG? YOU HAVE ALL OF THIS GREAT TRADITIONAL FOOD. I MEAN, REALLY EXTRAORDINARILY GOOD. AND YOU HAVE, CERTAINLY, GREAT TRADITIONAL INGREDIENTS. WHY THE BAD REPUTATION? I THINK IT'S FASCINATING, 'CAUSE NO ONE CAN REALLY PUT A FINGER ON IT. MY THEORY WAS THIS WHOLE PROTESTANT NOTION THAT TAKING TOO MUCH PLEASURE AT THE TABLE LED TO BAD CHARACTER. AM I COMPLETELY UP MY OWN *** HERE, OR IS THERE SOMETHING TO BE SAID FOR THIS? WE REALLY LOST OUR WAY SO BADLY, WITH SUCH A FANTASTIC NATURE WRITING OUR MENU FOR US. AND A TRADITION OF SHOOTING VERY TASTY LITTLE ANIMALS, HANGING THEM, AND EATING THEM. AS THE MENU FLY OVER YOU. WHY DO WE LOSE SENSE OF SEASON OR TASTE OR... YEAH, WHY? IT'S A QUESTION WITHOUT A SIMPLE ANSWER, ONE THAT MIGHT JUST AS WELL BE ASKED OF ALL OF US IN THE ENGLISH-SPEAKING WORLD ONLY NOW JUST LEARNING TO CRAWL BACK FROM THE ABYSS... ...A QUESTION FERGUS HENDERSON HAS ANSWERED BY RECLAIMING CENTURIES OF ENGLISH TRADITION -- OR AS OUR BUTCHER FRIENDS MORE ACCURATELY PUT IT, "BRINGING IT BACK." ONE, TWO, THREE, ALPHA, BRAVO, CHARLIE, HOTEL, GOLF, INDIGO. ONE SMALL STEP CLOSER TO CROSSOVER STARDOM. I'M GONNA BE BIG -- CLAY AIKEN BIG. IN THE WHOLE MOVIE, HE ONLY GOT TO SLEEP WITH HIS UGLY LANDLADY. [ MID-TEMPO MUSIC PLAYS ] I'M BACK IN THE RECORDING STUDIO WITH MORCHEEBA WHERE THE WHOLE JOURNEY STARTED, LISTENING TO THE TRACK I RECORDED WITH THEM A WHILE AGO. [ Echoing ] ANYTHING. I'M FALLING IN LOVE WITH THIS FICTIONAL CHARACTER ALL OVER AGAIN. Godfrey: OH, LISA. I'D DO ANYTHING FOR HER. SO GOOD, MAN. IT'S ALMOST LIKE I KNEW WHAT I WAS DOING. FORTUNATELY, THESE GUYS DO KNOW WHAT THEY'RE DOING, AND I'VE GOT SOME NEW STUFF, INSPIRED BY ONE OF MY FAVORITE ACTORS IN ONE OF HIS BEST FILMS. IT'S GOOD TO BE IN THE HANDS OF THE PROFESSIONALS. IT'S WHAT WE NEED -- CREATIVE LUBRICATION. ABOUT ANYTHING. HE -- HE... SO, I THINK THAT'S GOOD. ONE, TWO, THREE. OKAY, WE'RE ROLLING, TONY. MICHAEL CAINE IS MEAN. HE'S WITHOUT REMORSE. HE STABBED THAT GUY BEHIND THE BEDDING SHOP -- THE ONE IN THE WHITE TURTLENECK. CAN WE JUST DO ONE MORE, AND JUST REALLY INTENSIFY IT? YEP. MICHAEL CAINE IS MEAN. HE'S WITHOUT REMORSE. SORRY, HOLD ON, TONY. I'M REALLY SORRY. OKAY, WE'RE ROLLING, MATE. Bourdain: MICHAEL CAINE IS MEAN. HE'S WITHOUT REMORSE. MICHAEL CAINE -- THE MAN BEHIND THE ALL-TIME GREATEST CRIME FILM EVER MADE. IN THE MOVIE "GET CARTER," HE'S GOT NO REMORSE AT ALL. CAINE PLAYS A LONDON MOBSTER WHO SET OUT ON A TRAIN HEADING NORTH TO FIND OUT WHO KILLED HIS BROTHER. HE BEATS UP, MESSES UP, AND KILLS A LOT, A LOT OF PEOPLE IN THE PROCESS. HE'S A COLD MAN IN THAT MOVIE, ESPECIALLY WHEN HE MAKES ERIC DRINK WHISKEY AND THEN HITS HIM IN THE FACE WITH A GUN BUTT. IT'S BYE-BYE, ERIC. WHILE I'VE BEEN SPENDING THE LAST FEW DAYS IN LONDON CATCHING UP WITH OLD FRIENDS, I ALSO FIND MYSELF ON A JOURNEY TO FIND SOME ANSWERS, TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHERE BRITISH CUISINE VEERED OFF COURSE. WE REALLY LOST OUR WAY SO BADLY. TO GET ORIGINAL BRITISH INGREDIENTS THESE DAYS RAW, YOU GOT TO GO TO THE CHINESE? YES. YOU DID USED TO SELL A LOT MORE OFFAL 'CAUSE THERE WAS A LOT MORE BUTCHER SHOPS ABOUT. BUT YOU DON'T SEE THAT ANYMORE. IT'S VERY OLD-FASHIONED. WHERE DID ENGLAND GO WRONG? WHERE DID ITS BAD REPUTATION COME FROM? IT'S HARD TO SAY, BUT ONE THING IS BECOMING CLEAR TO ME -- CHEFS WITHOUT FEAR OR REMORSE HAVE BEEN LEADING THE WAY BACK BY SIMPLY LOOKING AT THE HISTORY, TRADITION, AND THE INGREDIENTS THAT ARE RIGHT IN FRONT OF THEM. WE'RE NOT THE GENIUSES, ARE WE? WE'RE JUST THE TECHNICIANS. AS THE MENU FLY OVER YOU. THIS MENU -- IT'S AN AMAZING HISTORICAL DOCUMENT. SO JUST LIKE MICHAEL CAINE IN "GET CARTER," I'M ON A BritRail TRAIN HEADED NORTH WITH MY OWN SET OF QUESTIONS TO BE ANSWERED, LOOKING TO SEE IF WHAT HOLDS TRUE IN ENGLAND HOLDS TRUE IN SCOTLAND, AS WELL. IN THE WHOLE MOVIE, HE ONLY GOT TO SLEEP WITH HIS UGLY LANDLADY BEFORE HE GOT SHOT. BRITT EKLAND, HE NEVER TOUCHED. [ CLAPPING ] YAY! THAT'S A TAKE. [ CHUCKLES ] [ BAGPIPES PLAYING ] EDINBURGH, LIKE LONDON, IS A PLACE I FEEL AT HOME. AND LIKE LONDON, IT'S A PLACE WITH A CRIMINAL PAST -- AT LEAST AS FAR AS SOME OF ITS FOOD IS CONCERNED. BUT A PLACE WHERE, ALSO LIKE LONDON, THINGS ARE GETTING BETTER AND BETTER. IT'S EASILY ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL CITIES ON EARTH, PROUD OF ITS HISTORY, ITS SEPARATE NATIONAL IDENTITY. WATCHING ALL THIS HAPPEN -- THE GOOD, THE BAD, AND THE UGLY -- IS IAN RANKIN... THANK YOU VERY MUCH. THERE YOU ARE, SIR. ...BEST-SELLING AUTHOR OF THE WILDLY POPULAR "INSPECTOR REBUS" SERIES. EVERY STORY UNFOLDS IN ACTUAL LOCATIONS IN EDINBURGH. RANKIN HAS CREATED AN ALTERNATE MAP OF THIS OTHERWISE PICTURE-PERFECT-SEEMING CITY AND BREATHES NEW LIFE INTO PLACES NOT TYPICALLY NOTICED, INCLUDING MY FAVORITE PUB IN SCOTLAND, THE OXFORD BAR. WHY'D YOU PICK THIS PLACE FOR YOUR HERO TO DRINK? Rankin: I THOUGHT IT'S THE KIND OF BAR MY GUY WOULD DRINK IN -- VERY UNAFFECTED, VERY UNPRETENTIOUS, BASIC, STRIPPED BACK, ALMOST LIKE A PRIVATE CLUB. EVERYBODY KNOWS EVERYBODY ELSE. I REMEMBER, MAYBE MY SECOND OR THIRD TIME HERE, SITTING OVER THERE SOMEPLACE ON THE PEW AND HAVING ONE OF THOSE MOMENTS OF PERFECT HAPPINESS THAT YOU ONLY GET IN A REALLY GREAT PUB. BUT ALSO AS A KIND OF METAPHOR, TO GET ARTSY-FARTSY FOR A MINUTE. THE KIND OF EDINBURGH I WAS WRITING ABOUT WAS THIS SECRET EDINBURGH THAT TOURISTS NEVER SAW, THE STUFF HAPPENING JUST BELOW THE SURFACE. AND I THOUGHT THIS WAS A NICE REPRESENTATION OF THAT. THE OTHER SIDE OF EDINBURGH. IAN AND I BYPASS THE CASTLE AND THE ROYAL MILE, THE INCREDIBLE ARCHITECTURE, AND HEAD RIGHT OVER TO THE OTHER SIDE OF TOWN WHERE TOURISTS WERE, UNTIL RECENTLY, SELDOM SEEN UNLESS THEY WERE LOOKING TO SCORE. AS IN ANY DETECTIVE STORY, ANSWERS WERE TO BE FOUND HERE. UP NEXT, SOME CULINARY HIGHS AND LOWS OF EDINBURGH. Rankin: OH, MAN, NO. DON'T -- NO, DON'T -- NO. I'M IN EDINBURGH WITH CRIME WRITER IAN RANKIN TO INVESTIGATE WHY SCOTTISH FOOD HAS SUCH A BAD REPUTATION. OUR CULINARY JOURNEY BEGINS IN LEITH. NOT LONG AGO, THIS AREA WAS KNOWN PRIMARILY FOR DRUG DEALS, HOUSING PROJECTS, CRUSHING POVERTY, AND SUCH FEEL-GOOD FILMS AS "TRAINSPOTTING." IAN WASTES NO TIME TAKING ME STRAIGHT TO THE TRADITIONAL EPICENTER OF SCOTTISH GASTRONOMY -- THE CHIP SHOP. NOW, I LOVE A GOOD CHIP SHOP, AND IAN HAS PROMISED ME THAT THE MERMAID IS ONE OF THE BEST. Rankin: WHAT DO YOU FANCY? I -- LISTEN -- I AM AN AFICIONADO OF THE FRYALATED ARTS, AND NOWHERE ARE THEY PRACTICED AT A HIGHER LEVEL THAN SCOTLAND. WELL, MAYBE A DEEP-FRIED HAGGIS. OH, YES. UH, THE PINK MEAT. YEAH, THE KING RIB. BECAUSE FISH AND CHIPS IS SO LAST WEEK. LISTEN, I KNOW WHAT I'M HAVING ALREADY. I'M TOTALLY ON THIS CASE. A DEEP-FRIED HAGGIS AND A KING RIB, PLEASE. NOW, I'M NOT A SNOB WHEN IT COMES TO DROPPING VARIOUS MEATS OF DUBIOUS TO UNKNOWN PROVIDENCE IN A HOT OIL. IT MAKES EVERYTHING BETTER. SO I'M ADRIFT IN A SEA OF GUILTY PLEASURES IN SCOTLAND, THE INDISPUTABLE HOME AND WORLD CHAMPION OF INDISCRIMINATE DEEP-FRYING. YOU WANT SALT AND SAUCE? BROWN SAUCE WITH VINEGAR IN IT. WHAT WOULD BE APPROPRIATE? SALT AND SAUCE. SALT AND SAUCE. BUT IF YOU'RE IN GLASGOW, YOU'D GO SALT AND VINEGAR. NO, NO, NO. WE'RE DOING EDINBURGH. WHEN IN GLASGOW, I'LL DO AS THE GLASGOWEGIANS. BEAUTIFUL. LOOK AT THAT. THAT'S WHAT YOU WANT. THAT'S A VISION OF UNPARALLELED LOVELINESS. WHAT APPROPRIATE BEVERAGE? IRN-BRU? OH, YEAH, IRN-BRU. DEFINITELY IRN-BRU. IT'S THE NECTAR OF THE GODS. THIS IS APRèS-***. APRèS-***. BUT IN OUR CASE, IT'S SORT OF AN INTERMEZZO. EXCELLENT. THANK YOU VERY MUCH, FOLKS. THANK YOU. AND HERE'S YOUR FESTIVE BEVERAGE. ♪ GET DOWN ♪ ♪ HERE WE GO ♪ Rankin: HOW'S THIS HAGGIS? THE HAGGIS IS GOOD. IT'S SHEEP, RIGHT? SHEEP'S INTESTINES. IT'S BEST YOU DON'T PUT IT IN YOUR NORMAL FOOD. GET COOKED UP WITH SPICES IN THE SHEEP'S BLADDER. WHEN YOU'RE DEEP-FRYING IT, YOU DON'T USE THE BLADDER, 'CAUSE IT WOULD JUST DISINTEGRATE. IT'S WHAT'S LEFT TO THE POOR PEOPLE BY THE CRUEL LANDOWNERS THAT BECOMES GOOD FOOD. NOW, HERE'S WHAT I'M CURIOUS ABOUT, THOUGH. WHAT EXACTLY IS A KING RIB? NOW, YOU SEE, I WOULDN'T EAT THAT. YOU WOULDN'T? I DON'T KNOW WHERE THAT'S BEEN. IS IT MEAT? WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY "MEAT," EXACTLY? ANYTHING THAT'S NOT BEEN RECONSTITUTED FROM AN EXTRAORDINARY MACHINE THAT JUST TAKES LIPS AND [BLEEP] HOLES. I DON'T CARE IF IT'S HAMSTER MEAT. OH, MAN, NO. DON'T -- NO, DON'T -- NO. THAT'S LIKE SEEING A GLOVE PUPPET NAKED. THEY SHAPE IT INTO SOME VAGUELY RIB SHAPE AND THEN DUNK IT IN BATTER. AND THIS IS THE MYSTERY MEAT INSIDE. YEAH. I'M SORRY, THAT DOESN'T SUCK. AND WHAT IS THIS BEVERAGE? IT'S IRN-BRU. IF YOU DRINK A BOTTLE -- THAT SIZE BOTTLE -- BEFORE YOU GO TO BED AT NIGHT, NO HANGOVER. BUT MY TEETH WILL BE DISSOLVED DOWN TO NUBBINS. WHICH IS WHY WE'VE GOT THE WORST TEETH IN EUROPE. I THINK WE'VE LEARNED SOMETHING HERE TODAY. BATTER IS A MAIN COURSE ALL ITS OWN. THAT IF YOU SHAPE ANYTHING LIKE A RIB, PEOPLE WILL COME. WE ALREADY KNEW THAT HAGGIS IS GREAT. AND WE LEARNED THAT IRN-BRU -- THE GREATEST BEVERAGE OF ALL-TIME. NOW, PERSONALLY, I'D BE PROUD TO HAVE MY COUNTRY'S CULINARY HERITAGE REPRESENTED BY SUCH MAGNIFICENTLY DEPRAVED INDIGENOUS SPECIALTIES AS KING RIB OR DEEP-FRIED HAGGIS. BUT NO, INSISTS IAN. THERE'S MORE TO SCOTTISH CUISINE. AND TO SEE THESE CHANGES, WE DON'T HAVE TO GO VERY FAR. IT'S HAPPENING RIGHT HERE IN LEITH. WHERE'S THE VICE CENTRAL? WHAT'S GOING ON HERE? THIS USED TO BE A PRETTY ROUGH AREA. IT'S THE DOCKS AREA, SO IT WAS KIND OF ROUGH -- LOTS OF PIMPS, LOTS OF PROSTITUTES. SOMETHING VERY INTERESTING STARTED HAPPENING. SECRET ENTRANCE. OH, YEAH? YEAH, LET'S GO. TO APPRECIATE WHAT'S HAPPENING IN LEITH, YOU HAVE FIRST TO GO WHERE IT IS. LEITH'S LOCATION IS A CLUE, NOT ONLY TO ITS SORDID PAST, BUT SCOTTISH CUISINE'S PROMISING FUTURE. WHILE MOST OF EDINBURGH WAS BUILT AROUND A HILLTOP CASTLE, LEITH IS SITUATED BY EDINBURGH'S WATERFRONT, THE DOCKS. WHERE ONCE THAT MEANT UNDESIRABLE ELEMENTS, IT NOW MEANS PRIME ACCESS TO SEAFOOD. HERE YOU CAN SEE THE PRODUCE SPEAKS FOR ITSELF. IRONICALLY, SCOTLAND HAS ALWAYS HAD A STERLING REPUTATION FOR ITS SEAFOOD, ITS GAME, AND ITS PRODUCE. Man: SO FRESH, IT'S SHUTTING ON MY FINGERS. THAT WAS THE PROBLEM -- IT WAS THE SOURCE, BUT THE STUFF DIDN'T STAY HERE. IT WAS IMMEDIATELY SHIPPED ELSEWHERE. LATELY, THE IMPROVING ECONOMY HAS ALLOWED LOCALS THE LUXURY OF KEEPING THEIR OWN STUFF AND INSPIRED CHEFS TO TAKE A CHANCE ON A DEVELOPING NEIGHBORHOOD. THIS CHEF -- FRENCH-TRAINED, SCOTTISH-BORN TOM KITCHIN -- TOOK A CHANCE ON LEITH AND BROUGHT HOME A MICHELIN STAR. CAN I HAVE THE SEAWEED? CAN I HAVE THE SEA URCHINS? YES, CHEF. RESTAURANTS, LIKE TOM KITCHIN'S APTLY NAMED THE KITCHIN, ARE TRYING NOT ONLY TO CHANGE THE LANDSCAPE OF LEITH, BUT ALSO THE REPUTATION OF SCOTTISH CUISINE. YES, CHEF. [ SIZZLING ] CHEF. GOOD TO MEET YOU, BROTHER. WELCOME. LOOKING FORWARD TO THIS MEAL. IT SMELLS GOOD. WHAT ARE WE EATING? WE'VE GOT THE BEST SHELLFISH, THE BEST SEAFOOD IN THE WORLD. SO WE'RE GONNA START OFF WITH SOME SEA URCHINS. WE'RE GOING TO DO A FOIE GRAS DISH, BUT WE'RE GOING TO DO IT WITH SCOTTISH HAGGIS, NEEPS, AND TATTIES -- BUT MY VERSION. WE'RE GONNA DO LANGOUSTINE WITH A ***-AND-ROLLED PIG'S HEAD, CRISPY-EAR SALAD. IS THERE ANYTHING THAT'S NOT GOOD WITH PIG'S HEAD? I DON'T THINK SO. ALL RIGHT, MAN, LET'S EAT. TOO MUCH TALK ABOUT FOOD, NOT ENOUGH EATING. THANK YOU, CHEF. FRENCH TECHNIQUE, SCOTTISH INGREDIENTS -- THE BEST OF ALL WORLDS. CAN'T WAIT TO TRY. FINALLY, AFTER A LONG JOURNEY, SOME ANSWERS. THAT'S ALWAYS THE TIPPING POINT FOR A COUNTRY. I'M IN EDINBURGH WITH CRIME WRITER IAN RANKIN, COVERING THE WATERFRONT, AS IT WERE, EXPERIENCING THE FULL RANGE OF SCOTTISH CUISINE. FROM THE LOWLIEST CHIPPER TO THE KITCHIN, A MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANT RECLAIMING THE BEST OF LOCAL INGREDIENTS AND HELPING TO REWRITE THE REPUTATION OF SCOTTISH CUISINE. I THINK ONE OF THE THINGS ABOUT BRITISH FOOD IS THAT FOR A LONG TIME, WE FORGOT HOW TO ENJOY FOOD. IT WAS READY-MADE. IT WAS PACKAGED. IT WAS CHEAP. IT WAS ACCESSIBLE. IT'S A FAMILIAR STORY THROUGHOUT THE ENGLISH-SPEAKING WORLD -- GOOD THINGS LET GO IN THE NAME OF CONVENIENCE. IT'S A WHOLESALE REJECTION OF THIS LAZY AND MISGUIDED APPROACH THAT MOTIVATES TOM KITCHIN. HIS PASSION FOR THE FRESHEST LOCALLY SOURCED INGREDIENTS BORDERS ON ZEALOTRY. THIS IS WHAT EVERYONE ELSE USES FOR SCALLOPS. YOU SEE? IT COMES IN THE TUB. IT'S NOT THE SAME AS WHAT I'VE GOT, YOU SEE? SO IT'S NO SURPRISE THAT THE SEA URCHINS AND RAZOR CLAMS IN OUR FIRST PORTION OF SEA-URCHIN SOUP WERE HANGING OUT AT THE BOTTOM OF THE NORTH SEA JUST THIS MORNING. OH, YEAH. I LOVE SEA URCHIN, AND I LOVE RAZOR CLAM. THAT IS QUITE NICE. YOU CAN TASTE THE SEA. IT'S ALL THERE. THIS IS THE KIND OF STUFF THAT REMINDS YOU THAT EDINBURGH IS ACTUALLY A COASTAL CITY. IF YOU'RE STANDING NEAR THE CASTLE OR PRINCESS STREET, YOU HAVE NO NOTION THAT YOU'RE ACTUALLY ON THE EDGE OF THE SEA, BUT YOU ARE. SEAFOOD -- FRESH SEAFOOD, AS WELL AS FRESH HIGHLAND GAME, LIKE THIS GROUSE WITH SEASONAL MUSHROOMS AND AU JUS OR THIS HAGGIS WITH NEEPS AND TATTIES AND PAN-SEARED FOIE GRAS AND THIS LANGOUSTINE TAIL WITH ***-AND-ROLLED SEARED PIG'S HEAD, ACCOMPANIED BY BEAUTIFUL NORTH SEA DIVER'S SCALLOPS -- DISHES THAT HAVE BEEN THE STANDARD BEARERS OF SCOTTISH CUISINE, NOW REINVENTED WITH PRECISION BY SOMEONE WHO'S KNOWN THESE INGREDIENTS HIS WHOLE LIFE. WOW. OH, THIS LOOKS NICE. LOOK AT THE SIZE OF THE SCALLOP! THIS IS, LIKE, REALLY FRENCH, MAN. THIS IS VERY FRENCH, BUT WITH ALL SCOTTISH INGREDIENTS. THAT'S ALWAYS THE TIPPING POINT FOR A COUNTRY -- WHEN SOMEBODY WHO -- YOU KNOW, THEY GO ELSEWHERE, THEY LEARN HOW TO COOK, THEY COME BACK, AND THEN THEY CELEBRATE WHAT WAS THERE ALL ALONG. I CAME TO LONDON AND EDINBURGH TO ASK SOME BASIC QUESTIONS -- QUESTIONS WHICH MOST OF US MIGHT WELL ASK OF OURSELVES AND OF OUR OWN COUNTRY. WHERE DID THINGS GO WRONG? WHEN DID WE FORGET? MOST IMPORTANTLY, HOW DO WE KEEP GETTING INSPIRATION FROM THE PLACES THAT SURROUND US? FOR CHEFS LIKE FERGUS HENDERSON AND TOM KITCHIN, IT TOOK CELEBRATING THE ELEMENTS AND INGREDIENTS WHICH WERE THERE AND PART OF THEIR LIVES ALL ALONG. FOR PERFORMANCE ARTISTS LIKE PHIL DIRTBOX AND WRITERS LIKE IAN RANKIN, IT MEANS EXAMINING THE SAME STREETS YOU WALK EVERY DAY, ONLY SEARCHING HARD FOR THAT WHICH LIES JUST BENEATH THE SURFACE. AND FOR MARCO PIERRE WHITE, HE'S REDISCOVERED WHAT INSPIRED HIM LONG BEFORE THE MICHELIN SPOTLIGHT -- THE ENGLISH COUNTRYSIDE. ♪ OH, I COULD TELL YOU ♪ ♪ BUT THEN I'D HAVE TO KISS YOU ♪ HE'S A COLD MAN IN THAT MOVIE, ESPECIALLY -- ESPECIALLY WHEN HE MAKES ERIC DRINK WHISKEY AND THEN HITS HIM IN THE FACE WITH A GUN BUTT. IT'S BYE-BYE, ERIC. IN THE WHOLE MOVIE, HE ONLY GOT TO SLEEP WITH HIS UGLY LANDLADY BEFORE HE GOT SHOT. BRITT EKLAND, HE NEVER TOUCHED.