Hyundai Accent HID - How to Install HID Xenon 2011+
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Hi, Phil with XenonSupply.com
your source for performance automotive lighting.
Today we have a 2012 Hyundai Accent we'll be installing HID Bi-Xenon headlights
that means both your low-beam
as well as your high-beam in one HID upgrade.
Now we've already gone ahead installed them here on our demo vehicle.
Let's go ahead and start from the beginning and see what it takes to upgrade your lights
to XenonSupply HIDs.
Let's take at what we'll need to perform this installation.
The XenonSupply HID Kit
comes with two H4-3 Bi-Xenon bulbs. Today we'll be using
the 6000k color temperature, that's the crystal white.
It also comes with:
two of the standard slim Intellight brand ballast,
and two mounting methods
for how to mount the ballast. We have 3M double-sided mounting foam,
as well as metal mounting brackets if you want to bolt them to the chassis.
The kit also includes the H4-3 Bi-Xenon wiring harness you'll be using
to hook up directly to your battery.
The tools we'll be using
are just a couple things
a 10mm socket and socket wrench,
a phillips head screwdriver, today we'll just be using a socket wrench screw driver,
diamond cutters, just to clean up your wiring,
and 1in hole saw,
or 1in unibit
to drill into your dust covers.
Let's go ahead and get started.
Tirst thing we need to do with any HID installation
is remove the old halogen bulb.
We're gonna show you the process here on the passenger's side
the process is the same
on the driver's side.
On the passenger's side to
access the bulb
you'll be removing the dust cover here by turning counter-clockwise.
Pull the cap away
to reveal access to the halogen bulb.
You should take the H4 connector, pull it away,
and then remove the wire clip that's holding the H4 bulb in place.
Just press down;
should pop out.
to remove the driver's side halogen bulb. it's a little bit more difficult because the fuse
box is preventing your hand from getting access to the dust cover.
The easiest way to remove the problem,
is to kinda release and
loosen the headlight housing from the chassis. We're gonna do that by removing the bolt here
as well as the bolt here
to lift up the headlight housing to give us more access.
We're gonna be using the 10mm socket and socket wrench, let's go ahead and do that now.
With the two bolts removed, what I like to do is take my left hand and
pull up on the housing, and that allows my right hand access
to remove the dust cover
and remove the H4 bulb.
Just like that.
Before we go ahead with the new HID bulbs into the new headlight housings we have
to first drill access holes for the wiring for the HID ballast. Now,
on the passenger side, we need to drill an access hole that's large enough for this bundle of wires,
just about a quarter of an inch large, through the center of this hole.
On the driver's side
you drill large enough
for this H4 connector
to get through to provide signal for the relay for both your high-beam and low-beam
switching. Let's go ahead and do that. This ones gonna be about 3/4 of an inch
that ones a 1/4 of an inch.
And that's how the passenger's side is going to be set up. Now the Bi-Xenon bulbs do not come
with rubber grommets,
so today we'll be using electrical tape
to seal up your connection here.
Let's go ahead and do the driver's side
with a 3/4 inch hole.
Okay. And that should the end
for the driver's side.
I'm going to show you now
how to run the wires for the H4-3 relay in the engine bay of the
Hyundai Accent.
Now I already have one laid out here
if you want to take a look,
the actual control module is resting between the battery and the airbox.
You have the power wire with a 25 amp fuse
running along the battery up to the fuse right here
over to the positive terminal.
You have your shorter set
of cables
running to the driver's side headlight
ground wire
ballast power
and the bi-xenon switching cable
here on the driver's side.
You also have
the H4 connector that
You'll be connecting inside the headlight housing for signal
for the control module.
Now the longest set of cables is running
all the way over to the passenger's side
you should have three connections only:
your ground wire,
ballast power,
and the bi-xenon switching cable.
And this one is going to run along underneath here,
right on top of radiator
always the way over to the passenger's side.
Let's go ahead and get this one installed.
While we're installing the harness in the
engine bay,
it's a good idea also mount the ballasts as they'll be using the same grounding bolt on each
side of the chassis.
Now you can see I've put on the metal brackets here
with include screws and nuts that came
with the kit.
We'll be use be using the 10mm socket and socket wrench to loosen this bolt,
mount the bracket,
as well as mount the grounding wire. Let's do that now.
The grounding wire is going to go on first, and then
the ballast
goes right on top.
Make sure that the ballast
is not covering the fuse box proper access if you ever need to get there.
Alright, now that that's secure,
you can go ahead and take the power wire from the harness
and attach it to the one from the ballast on the driver's side.
And we'll go ahead and tidy that one up later.
Let's go ahead and get the passenger's side hooked up.
For the harness power wire,
we're gonna be connecting directly to the battery terminal
use this bolt right here.
We're gonna wrap the power wire around
and attach it right here.
This is a 10mm bolt, we'll just loosen it,
Run our wire through,
and tighten it back down.
Now you want to run this around this way, so the cap will still close.
If you run it on the other side, there's a plastic piece here that'll
prevent it from moving.
Let's move on to the passenger's side.
On the passenger's side, we also have to mount the ballast
as well as the grounding wire
to the bolt here on the chassis.
We'll be using the same 10mm socket and socket wrench.
Let's go ahead and loosen.
Make sure the ground wire is on the bottom. So
Thread it through the bracket first,
then the wire,
then back down.
An alternate location for the ballast here could be the double-sided sticky tape against
the chassis frame right here.
If you have a different sized ballast you will have to find an alternate location
the locations here
provide just enough clearance
for when you're closing up the hood so
they don't interact with each other.
Now we have this one button down we can actually go ahead and connect the power wires here
from the harness.
The last step
is to install the bulbs
hook up these two power connections on each side
and we can go ahead and test those lights. Let's do that now.
For the passenger's side HID installation,
you'll be using the dust cover that
that has a smaller hole
with the H4 bulb.
You'll be installing the bulb with the open side facing up
and make sure that you take the latch
and you pull it out
before inserting.
Once the bulb is in the grooves,
you can bring the latch down
and bring it around the HID bulb
and push it down
until it hits the latch.
On the passenger's side,
you will not be using the stock
H4 connector shown here,
so you can just tuck it inside the headlight housing
and close up the dust cover.
Now that we have the dust cover on,
we can go ahead and connect the rest of our connections.
You have the bi-xenon signal cable here,
and the power and ground wire
for the HID bulb. Should be male and female
you can only connect it one way.
There you go. Let's go ahead and get the driver's side installed.
The driver's side is a little bit more complicated because of the additional wiring that's
going through the dust cover.
You first need to get the H4 bulb in
open side facing up,
make sure you have the clip,
or the wire,
up before you insert the bulb,
and once it's in make sure it locks into those three tabs.
Bring the wire down and around,
just like on the passenger's side,
and push it down to lock it in place.
Okay.
You're now gonna take your dust cover and
the H4 connector through first.
This is where it's gonna come in handy
to lift it up to get better access.
What you need to do is
connect the H4 connector
right here on the side.
Make sure that's secure.
You're gonna tuck this one in,
into the side
of the headlight housing.
You are then going to run
the wires coming from the HID bulb
through the dust cover.
Now with all the wiring through, you can go ahead and close this one up.
Same as the passenger's side
connect your bi-xenon signal cables
as well as
your HID bulb power
and ground wire.
All we have to do is test the lights
and once we confirm they're working
tidy up our wiring
and that should be it.
The best way to test an HID system
on a Hyundai Accent, is to make sure the engine is on with all your accessories running
to make sure the HIDs work in all conditions.
As you can see we've got the low beam on, my radio is on, I've got all my
accessories going, including my interior lights and the
low beams are working.
Let's go ahead and test the high beam setting.
We've got the momentary push as
well as the permanent high beam.
You also want to make sure there are no warnings on your dash, I don't see any here,
and that all your turn signals work. You've got your left, your right,
and your caution lights.
We're just about done tidying up
don't forget you gotta put the screws backing for the driver's side headlight
since we did remove them,
and once that one's all set,
make sure to clip off all of your zip ties excess,
for all your wiring.
As you can see
everything's been nicely tidied up,
our wires the running
all the way over to the passenger's side. There are no loose wires that could get caught in the engine
bay, and
everything seems to be working properly.
That should be it!
As always
thanks for tuning into XenonSupply.com
and again if you're looking for the kit you can visit us at XenonSupply.com
or reach us by email or phone at help@XenonSupply.com
or toll-free at 1-800-840-3240
See you guys soon
