Building a Rain Barrel

0:00-0:05 Hello. This is an instructional video on how to build a rain barrel. 0:06-0:15 Rooftop runoff can be a major problem traveling from roofs to gutters to streams to streets and storm drains overloading existing systems. 0:16-0:22 Included in this video are a list of parts and tools necessary to complete a rain barrel. 0:23-0:28 Slide of tools needed. No audio. 0:29-0:37 Many types of barrels can be transformed into a rain barrel. These barrels have been purchased from Lexington Container Company. 0:38-0:55 Some of the parts included will be reconstructed such as the inner and outer lids and screen. 0:56-1:06 The bottom of the outer lid can be used as a guide to mark a circle on a piece of wire mesh. 1:07-1:38 The mesh can be cut with an ordinary pair of scissors. This mesh screen will help to keep out dirt, trash, and other contaminants.” 1:39-1:53 The previously cut mesh can then be used to mark a circle on the screen included with the barrel. 1:53-2:09 A pair of tin snips can be used to cut the shape. This screen will help to secure the mesh against the outer lid, holding it in place. 2:10-2:21 Start by making a pilot hole and then use a jigsaw to cut out the middle. Now the lid needs an opening for water to enter the barrel. The bottom of the inner lid has a raised ridge. 2:22-2:52 Use this ridge as a guide to make an opening. The final assembly of the new lid will be stacked in this order. 2:53-2:56 Slide titled Making the Outlet. No audio. 2:57-3:07 When installing the drain, measure and mark the location 3 inches from the bottom of the barrel. 3:08-3:12 Drill a 15/16th inch hole … 3:13-3:15 … in the barrel 3:16-3:29 Lay a bead of silicon on both sides of the O-ring. The ¾ inch adaptor can now be installed. Put an O-ring on the threads. Ensure that … 3:30-3:33 … it is the pipe side and not the hose side of the adapter. 3:34-3:48 Tighten the adapter into the hole. It will not require tapping due to the slightly under-sizing of the hole and the plastic’s malleability. A wrench may be necessary to fully tighten. 3:49-3:55 The next step requires reaching inside of the barrel. An electrical conduit locking nut will be tightened … 3:56-3:57 … onto the adapter. 3:58-4:05 This will help maintain a water-tight seal. 4:06-4:08 Shot of electrical conduit locking nut on adapter. No audio. 4:09-4:15 The Y valve can now be installed. 4:16-4:26 A jigsaw can be used to cut the hole after a pilot hole was made. An appropriately sized hole-saw could also be used. Check to make sure the fitting … 4:27-4:34 … will clear and trim as necessary. Wrap a thin layer of Teflon tape … 4:35-4:42 … on the threads about 1 or 2 revolutions. This will help the fittings tighten entirely. 4:43-4:46 Run a bead of silicon at the shoulder of the threads. 4:47-4:57 The male fitting should go on the inside of the barrel, while a threaded 90 degree elbow will go on the outside. The two fittings should clamp the barrel to create a seal. 4:58-5:13 A small piece of the wire mesh can be wrapped around … 5:14-5:20 … the PVC fitting inside the barrel. Secure it with a hose clamp or a wire zip-tie. 5:21-5:22 Slide titled Putting It All Together. No audio. 5:23-5:44 The final assembly is completed using the pieces made previously. 5:45-5:49 Gutters can be routed to the barrel opening. 5:50-6:14 The drain can empty the barrels or be used to connect multiple barrels in series to create more storage volume. The overflow can be directed toward suitable areas or connected to other barrels with extra plumbing. Now you have a completed rain barrel, don’t hesitate to decorate it to fit your style. 6:15-7:43 CREDITS