Principles of Application: Diagonal Placement

[Instrumental music] [Instrumental music] Diagonal placement is used to create blending, softness and enhance movement. The most common diagonal is 45 degrees. There are two types of diagonal lines that we work with, Diagonal Forward and Diagonal Back. Before we begin placing our foils, we have to section off the head. This will help to keep our foils consistent and prevent us from losing our place. What we're about to show is sectioning for Diagonal Forward and Diagonal Back foiling techniques. Start by separating the head from side to side using a center part. Next, find the high point of the head. This is where you comb rests, evenly balanced on the top of the head. From this point, separate the front from the back by parting from the high point to the natural break just behind the ears. Separate the crown by using the round of the head. Place your comb flat in the crown area. Where it lifts off is where we make the part. Clip up the crown area. Separate the nape from the back by placing your comb flat against the nape area. Where it lifts off is where we make the part. Clip up the back and nape right and left sections. In the front, create a pie shaped section. Start by taking a diagonal parting from the high point of the head to the outer corners of the eye. Secure both right and left sides. This will separate the sides from the top. From the top view, we have four sections that have a pie shaped pattern that moves around through the sides. Next, we are going to show Diagonal Forward placement, which is used to enhance forward movement in a design and draw the eye forward towards the face. Begin in the right side of the nape area. Place the client's head forward to help make foiling easier. Take a 1/8 to 1/4 inch diagonal section that is at a 45 degree angle. This diagonal starts high on the inside of the section towards the center and moves low on the outside of the section towards the ear. This is the diagonal that enhances movement forward. Choose your stitch. In this case, we will create a standard stitch. Take the hair that has been stitched and place it onto a foil. Apply the formula from scalp to ends. Saturate evenly with product. Make sure not to swirl the ends. This may cause uneven color results. Fold or cover with foil. [Instrumental music] Take another diagonal section; continue to stitch as before. In this area, the sections go from narrow to wide to narrow. Be sure to stay diagonal. Complete the section and repeat on the left side of the nape, making sure the foils are placed in the opposite direction, creating an upside down V. Move to the back section on the right side. Take diagonal sections and stitch as you did in the nape, keeping the same diagonal. [Instrumental music] As you work in this section, the head becomes wider and it may be necessary to place foils side by side to accommodate the client's head shape. Complete the entire section and repeat on the left side back, making sure the foils are placed in the opposite direction creating an upside down V. The next section is the right side. Check the 45 degree diagonal forward angle by holding your comb vertically next to the section. Place the first foil above the ear. The diagonal begins lower on the outside towards the front hairline and goes higher on the inside towards the ear. Another way to check the angle is by making sure you are parallel with your top parting that travels from the high point to the corner of the eye. Complete this section. Continue on the left side. Remember to keep diagonal and consistent in the size of the section and the stitch used. [Instrumental music] Next, move to the top right side. Continue using the same 45 degree diagonal angle that was previously foiled on the right side. Once that is complete, foil the top left side in the opposite direction, creating an upside down V. Stay diagonal and consistent in the size of section and stitch used. Complete this section. Move to the back of the head to work in the crown area. Start on the right side crown. The diagonal of these foils should appear the same as those in the back and nape. Complete this section. [Instrumental music] Repeat on the left side crown, working in the opposite direction. [Instrumental music] Here is what the completed look of Diagonal Forward foil placement will look like. [Instrumental music] We're going to show Diagonal Back foil placement, which is used to enhance backward movement in a design by drawing the eye back away from the face. Begin in the right side of the nape area. Take a 1/8 to 1/4 inch diagonal section at the hairline in the back right corner. This diagonal starts high on the outside of the section towards the ear and moves low on the inside of this section towards the center. Choose your stitch. In this case, we will create a standard stitch. Place hair onto a foil. Apply formula from scalp to ends. [Instrumental music] Make sure not to swirl the ends; this may cause uneven color results. Fold or cover with foil. Take another diagonal half inch slice. Continue to stitch as before. As you work in this section, the sections will go from narrow to wide to narrow. Be sure the partings stay diagonal. Complete the entire section. Repeat on the left side of the nape, making sure the diagonal moves in the opposite direction, creating a V. [Instrumental music] Begin in the back section on the right side back corner. From the corner, take diagonal sections and stitch as you did in the nape. As you work in this section, the head becomes wider and it may be necessary to place foils side by side to accommodate the section. [Instrumental music] Complete this section. Repeat on the left side back, making sure the diagonal moves in the opposite direction creating a V. The next section is the right side. Keeping a 45 degree diagonal back angle, place the foil near the hairline. The diagonal begins highest on the outside toward the hair line and goes lower on the inside toward the ear. Complete this section. [Instrumental music] Continue onto the left side. Remember to keep diagonal and consistent in the size of section and stitch used. [Instrumental music] Move to the right side, top section. Begin at the front hairline. The diagonal starts low on the inside of the section towards the center, and high on the outside of the section towards the ear. Continue sections and stitch as before. Repeat on the left side top section, working with the diagonal in the opposite direction creating a V. [Instrumental music] Move to the back of the head to work in the crown area. Start on the right side of the crown. The diagonal of these foils should appear the same as those in the back and the nape. Complete this section. [Instrumental music] Repeat on the left side crown, working in the opposite direction. [Instrumental music] This is the completed view of what Diagonal Backward foil placement will look like. [Instrumental music]