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Hi, I'm Schell Michael. I'm here with Expert Village and today we're going to be doing
a series on how to surf. So let's discuss how you're going to get past those waves.
You're thinking, "Wow, this is a big wave, it's coming towards me and I don't know what
to do." We're going to give you a few tips on how to do that. The first way is the most
common, which is just called "duck diving" which is just kind of pretty explanatory.
If you ever see a duck go under the water and then they kind of come up and they shake
it off, that's what us surfers do. That's when you're paddling towards a wave, it's
coming directly at you and you take your board and you're almost, you're going to be laying
on and you use all of your top body weight to push down underneath, so it's going to
start poking into the water, just like this and when you get about half way under the
wave, then you pull it close to you and you use either one of your back knees to push
the back of the board down, and then it just kind of scoops up like that and you'll go
under the wave. So, just like a duck, if you think about that but you have your board with
you. So it's just kind of the down and the upward motion and that's the simplest way.
Usually, you would only duck dive a short board, unless you're really strong. Some people
can duck dive these medium-sized boards to long boards but most likely, it's just going
to be duck diving a short board. The second way, is something that we call "turtling"
or a "turtle roll" and what that consists of is, you're paddling out right here on the
board, just like this, the wave is coming at you, you kind of roll off your board and
the wave goes right over you. So, that's what we call "turtling" or "turtle rolling". That's
pretty effective. You don't want to pull the board super close to your body, you want to
leave a little space so the water can kind of go between you and the board. Oh, another
way as well, usually when it's smaller, which you will be probably working with because
you're learning how to surf, is you'll just push off of your board, you'll be paddling
and the wave will be coming at you, and you'll do a push up, like this and the wave will
go between you and the board just right through here. Or, if it's a real small wave, you don't
have to do a full push up, you just push your chest up like this. And those are a few ways
to get past the waves.