Mark ‧ Pitman (Mark Bittman) - we eat what is wrong ( in English dual subtitles )

我寫有關食物、寫有關烹飪的文章 I write about food. I write about cooking. 我很認真對待這份工作 I take it quite seriously, 但我在這裡要向大家講及有關 but I'm here to talk about something 一些在最近一兩年前開始對我很重要的事情 that's become very important to me in the last year or two. 那是有關食物，但不是有關烹飪的本質 It is about food, but it's not about cooking per se. 讓我用一幅美麗的母牛照片作開始 I'm going to start with this picture of a beautiful cow. 我不是一位素食主義者 -- 這聽起來好像是尼克森的用語吧！ I'm not a vegetarian -- this is the old Nixon line, right? 但我仍然認為這 -- But I still think that this -- (笑) (Laughter) =-- 可能是現在的情況 -- may be this year's version of this. 只不過有一點誇張罷了 Now that is only a little bit hyperbolic. 我為什麼說這些呢? And why do I say it? 因為以前曾經有一次，個人的命運 Because only once before has the fate of individual people 和全人類的命運是 and the fate of all of humanity 緊緊連在一起的 been so intertwined. 過去是原子彈，而這個是現在 There was the bomb, and there's now. 我們現在的決定 And where we go from here is going to determine 不單影響到個人生活的質素和長短 not only the quality and the length of our individual lives, 還影響我們是否在一個世紀後 but whether, if we could see the earth a century from now, 仍能認出我們的地球 we'd recognize it. 這是另類的大屠殺 It's a holocaust of a different kind, 而逃避於事無補 and hiding under our desks isn't going to help. 由全球暖化的概念開始 Start with the notion that global warming 我們知道這不僅是真實的而且是非常危險 is not only real, but dangerous. 自此，每一位科學家都對此表示認同 Since every scientist in the world now believes this, 連總統布希亦領悟此事實，縱然他可能只是假裝領悟 and even President Bush has seen the light, or pretends to, 我們可拿此作假設 we can take this is a given. 請各位聽我說 Then hear this, please. 家畜是繼能源生產之後 After energy production, livestock is the second-highest contributor 產生最多改變氣候氣體的元兇 to atmosphere-altering gases. 近五分之一的溫室氣體 Nearly one-fifth of all greenhouse gas 是由畜牧業產生 -- is generated by livestock production -- 這比運輸業還要多 more than transportation. 現在，你可盡情地開有關牛屁的笑話 Now, you can make all the jokes you want about cow farts, 因為，甲烷的有害程度是二氧化碳的20倍 but methane is 20 times more poisonous than CO2, 而這不止於甲烷 and it's not just methane. 畜牧業是土地退化、空氣食水污染、 Livestock is also one of the biggest culprits in land degradation, 食水短缺和喪失生物多樣化的最大元兇之一 air and water pollution, water shortages and loss of biodiversity. 還有更多 There's more. 這個國家有一半的抗生素 Like half the antibiotics in this country 不是用在人類上而是用在動物上 are not administered to people, but to animals. 列舉這些會變得有點麻木，因此容許我這樣說 But lists like this become kind of numbing, so let me just say this, 倘若你是一位革新主義者 if you're a progressive, 倘若你駕駛著Prius混合動力電動汽車，或你支持綠色消費 if you're driving a Prius, or you're shopping green, 或你尋找有機食物 or you're looking for organic, 你大概是一位半素食主義者 you should probably be a semi-vegetarian. 我反對進食牛肉有如反對原子彈一樣 Now, I'm no more anti-cow than I am anti-atom, 但這視乎我們怎樣利用這些東西 but it's all in the way we use these things. 昨天安古柏(Ann Cooper)的演講很精彩地講到 There's another piece of the puzzle 構成這現象的另一實情 which Ann Cooper talked about beautifully yesterday, 你已經知曉 and one you already know. 無可否認地，那些所謂的都市病 -- There's no question -- none --that so-called lifestyle diseases -- 如糖尿病、心臟病、中風、幾種癌症 -- diabetes, heart disease, stroke, some cancers -- 這些疾病在這個國家裡 are diseases that are far more prevalent here 比其他國家來得普遍 than anywhere in the rest of the world. 這就是西方飲食方式所導致的直接結果 And that's the direct result of eating a Western diet. 我們對肉類、奶類產品、和精煉碳水化合物的需求　－ Our demand for meat, dairy and refined carbohydrates -- 全球每一天消耗十萬罐或十萬樽可樂　－ the world consumes one billion cans or bottles of Coke a day -- 我們對這些東西的需求不是我們所需要的，而是我們的慾望 our demand for these things, not our need, our want -- 驅使我們吃比我們最佳攝取量更多的卡路里 drives us to consume way more calories than are good for us. 而在食物中的卡路里導致了疾病的產生，而非防止 And those calories are in foods that cause, not prevent, disease. 現在全球氣候暖化是預料之外的 Now global warming was unforeseen. 以前我們不知道污染除了降低能見度外還有什麼其他影響 We didn't know that pollution did more than cause bad visibility. 可能在這裡或那裡造成肺癌 Maybe a few lung diseases here and there, 但你知道這些都沒大不了 but you know, that's not such a big deal. 但是現在的健康危機 The current health crisis, however, 比一個邪惡帝國的危害還要嚴重 is a little more the work of the evil empire. 我們被告知並確信 We were told, we were assured, 越是多吃肉類、奶類、或家禽 that the more meat and dairy and poultry we ate, 我們就越健康 the healthier we'd be. 不是。過度進食動物，當然也包括垃圾食物， No. Overconsumption of animals, and of course, junk food, 是一個問題，還有對植物攝取不足。 is the problem, along with our paltry consumption of plants. 我們現在這裡沒有時間說明進食蔬菜的好處 Now, there's no time to get into the benefits of eating plants here, 但有證據證明植物 -- 我重申 -- but the evidence is that plants -- and I want to make this clear -- 不是植物的組成部分，而是植物本身 it's not the ingredients in plants, it's the plants. 不是胡蘿蔔素，而是胡蘿蔔本身 It's not the beta-carotene, it's the carrot. 證據清楚顯示植物有助健康 The evidence is very clear that plants promote health. 這證據在這點上更加充分 This evidence is overwhelming at this point. 我們多吃蔬菜，我們少吃其他物質，我們會更長壽 You eat more plants, you eat less other stuff, you live longer. 不錯吧 Not bad. 讓我們回去動物和垃圾食物這個問題上 But back to animals and junk food. 兩者有什麼共通點呢? What do they have in common? 一：我們不需要它們任何一個來維持健康 One: we don't need either of them for health. 我們不需要動物產品 We don't need animal products, 我們當然更加不需要白麵包或可樂 and we certainly don't need white bread or Coke. 二：它們兩者都過份廣泛推銷 Two: both have been marketed heavily, 這形成不自然的需求 creating unnatural demand. 我們不是天生渴望得到 Whoppes 或 Skittles 彩虹糖 We're not born craving Whoppers or Skittles. 三：它們的生產是由政府機構所支持 Three: their production has been supported by government agencies 犧牲了食用更健康和更天然食物的選擇 at the expense of a more health and earth-friendly diet. 讓我們想像一個平行面 Now let's imagine a parallel. 我們假設政府支持以石油主導的經濟 Let's pretend that our government supported an oil-based economy 同時亦阻止更加可持續發展的能源 while discouraging more sustainable forms of energy, 亦知道這些都只會帶來 knowing all the while that the result would be 污染、戰爭和更高的成本 pollution, war and rising costs. 不可思議吧! Incredible, isn't it? 但這就是他們的所為 Yet they do that. 他們對食物也是如此。如出一轍。 And they do this here. It's the same deal. 可悲的是，當飲食這個問題 The sad thing is, when it comes to diet, 就算聯邦政府那麼用心地 is that even when well-intentioned Feds 嘗試規範我們，他們亦失敗 try to do right by us, they fail. 他們若不是被農產業的傀儡以票數擊敗 Either they're outvoted by puppets of agribusiness, 或者他們本身就是農產業的傀儡 or they are puppets of agribusiness. 所以，當美國食品安全管理局終於承認 So when the USDA finally acknowledged 是植物而不是動物能令人類更健康 that it was plants, rather than animals, that made people healthy, 它們用過於簡化的食物金字塔來鼓勵我們 they encouraged us, via their overly-simplistic food pyramid, 每天吃5份水果蔬菜 to eat five servings of fruits and vegetables a day, 以及大量的碳水化合物 along with more carbs. 但他們沒有告訴我們某些碳水化合物比較好 What they didn't tell us is that some carbs are better than others, 亦沒有告訴我們植物和全穀類食物 and that plants and whole grains 應取代垃圾食物 should be supplanting eating junk food. 而業界的遊說者不容許這樣發生 But industry lobbyists would never let that happen. 你知嗎? And guess what? 發明食物金字塔的人 Half the people who developed the food pyramid 有一半與農產業有關聯 have ties to agribusiness. 因此，與其以植物取代動物 So instead of substituting plants for animals, 他們簡單地把人的食量變大 our swollen appetites simply became larger, 而最危險的部份卻維持不變 and the most dangerous aspects of them remained unchanged. 所謂的低脂食物或低碳水化合物的食物 So-called low-fat diets, so-called low-carb diets -- 都不是解決的方法 these are not solutions. 但很多有知識的人士 But with lots of intelligent people 只著眼於食物是否有機種植或是否出自原居地 focusing on whether food is organic or local, 或"是否善待動物" or whether we're being nice to animals, 最重要的一環卻沒有涉及 the most important issues just aren't being addressed. 不要誤會我 Now, don't get me wrong. 我很喜歡動物 I like animals, 但我不認為應該把牠們工業化地生產 and I don't think it's just fine to industrialize their production 和大量生產牠們猶如牠們是機器一般 and to churn them out like they were wrenches. 當你們每年殺死一百億的動物時 But there's no way to treat animals well 無一種方法你可以說是友善的 when you're killing 10 billion of them a year. 這是我們的數字，一百億 That's our number. 10 billion. 如果你把牠們綁在一起 -- If you strung all of them -- 雞、牛、豬、羊 -- chickens, cows, pigs and lambs -- to the moon, 牠們可以來回地球和月球五次 -- 是來回 they'd go there and back five times -- there and back. 我的數學有灰色地帶，但也很不錯的 Now, my math's a little shaky, but this is pretty good, 當然你要視乎那頭豬是四呎長還是五呎長 and it depends whether a pig is four feet long or five feet long, 但你應該可以得到一些概念 but you get the idea. 這只是在美國 That's just the United States. 我們過度食用動物 And with our hyper-consumption of those animals 產生溫室氣體、引致心臟病 producing greenhouse gases and heart disease, 善待動物只是為了轉移視線罷了 kindness might just be a bit of a red herring. 只有減少那些因我們食用而被殺害的動物 Let's get the numbers of the animals we're killing for eating down, 我們才能想如何善待那些剩下來的 and then we'll worry about being nice to the ones that are left. 另一個轉移焦點的典型代表是"土食主義" (locavore) Another red herring might be exemplified by the word "locavore," 這個字剛被新牛津美國詞典列為年度單詞 which was just named Word of the Year by the New Oxford American Dictionary. 很嚴肅的 Seriously. 而"土食主義"， 若你們不知， And locavore, for those of you who don't know, 是指那些只吃本地種植食物的人 is someone who eats only locally-grown food. 如你住在美國加州當然不成問題 Which is fine if you live in California, 但對於其他人，這只是一個可悲的笑話 but for the rest of us it's a bit of a sad joke. 在官方的故事 -- 食物金字塔 -- Between the official story -- the food pyramid -- 和時興的土食主義的觀念中 and the hip locavore vision, 你有兩個改善飲食的方式 you have two versions of how to improve our eating. (笑) (Laughter). 但兩個方式都是錯誤的 They both get it wrong, though. 第一個方式至少是大眾化，而第二個方式就只是精英論調 The first, at least is populist, and the second is elitist. 我們如何弄到如斯田地正是美國飲食文化的發展史 How we got to this place is the history of food in the United States. 我很快地為大家講解 And I'm going to go through that, 距今大約至少一百年的演變 at least the last hundred years or so, very quickly right now. 你知在一百年前是怎樣的? A hundred years ago, guess what? 所有人都奉行土食主義。連紐約也有畜豬場在附近 Everyone was a locavore, even New York had pig farms nearby 把食物運到全世界各地是天方夜譚的事情 and shipping food all over the place was a ridiculous notion. 每個家庭都有一位廚師，通常都是媽媽 Every family had a cook, usually a mom. 而那些媽媽會買和準備食物 And those moms bought and prepared food. 這好像歐洲浪漫的景象 It was like your romantic vision of Europe. 麥淇淋(人造奶油)並不存在 Margarine didn't exist. 而實情是當麥淇淋發明時 In fact, when margarine was invented, 有數個州通過法律要求麥淇淋必須染成粉紅色 several states passed laws declaring that it had to be dyed pink 使我們知道它是人造的 so we'd all know that it was a fake. 那時沒有零食小吃。直至二十年代 There was no snack food, and until the '20s, 伯宰(Birdseye)的出現才有冷凍食物 until Clarence Birdseye came along, there was no frozen food. 那時沒有餐廳連鎖店 There were no restaurant chains. 只有由本地人經營的鄰居小店 There were neighborhood restaurants run by local people, 沒有人會想開分店 but none of them would think to open another one. 民族食品是聞所未聞，除非你是其他種族的人 Eating ethnic was unheard of unless you were ethnic. 特級的食物全是法國菜 And fancy food was entirely French. 順便一提，如果你們記得 As an aside, those of you who remember 丹‧艾克洛德 (Dan Aykroyd) 在 20 世紀 70年代模仿朱麗亞 (Julia Child) Dan Aykroyd in the 1970s doing Julia Child imitations 可以看到他用難以置信的滑行刺傷自己的想法 can see where he got the idea of stabbing himself from this fabulous slide. (笑) (Laughter) 那時，比朱麗亞更早的時代 Back in those days, before even Julia, 是沒有食物理論 back in those days there was no philosophy of food. 只有食 You just ate. 你不會要求什麼 You didn't claim to be anything. 那時沒有市場行銷，亦沒有全國品牌 There was no marketing. There were no national brands. 維他命還沒發明 Vitamins had not been invented. 那時沒有醫療索賠，至少沒有聯邦政府認可那種 There were no health claims, at least not federally sanctioned ones. 脂肪、碳水化合物、蛋白質 -- 沒有好壞之分，它們只是食物 Fats, carbs, proteins -- they weren't bad or good, they were food. 你們吃食物 You ate food. 幾乎所有東西不會含多過一種的原料 Hardly anything contained more than one ingredient, 因為它們本身即為一種原料 because it was an ingredient. 玉米片還沒發明 The cornflake hadn't been invented. (笑) (Laughter) Pop-Tart 、Pringle 薯片、Cheez ***，這些都沒有 The Pop-Tart, the Pringle, Cheez ***, none of that stuff. 金魚是在游泳(沒有金魚餅乾) Goldfish swam. (笑) (Laughter) 很難相信吧。所有人在種他們的食物，食他們的食物 It's hard to imagine. People grew food, and they ate food. 再次，每一個人都食本地食物 And again, everyone ate local. 在紐約，橘子是一個常見的聖誕禮物 In New York, an orange was a common Christmas present, 因為它們從佛羅里達州遠道而來 because it came all the way from Florida. 自從三十年代，道路系統不斷擴展 From the '30s on, road systems expanded, 貨車取代鐵路 trucks took the place of railroads, 新鮮的食物開始往來頻繁 fresh food began to travel more. 橘子在紐約變得更加普遍 Oranges became common in New York. 南部和西部地區變成農業中心 The South and West became agricultural hubs, 在其他地方，村鎮取代了農田 and in other parts of the country suburbs took over farmland. 它的影響很深遠，而且隨處可見 The effects of this are well known, they are everywhere. 而家庭式農場的末落只是其中的一部分 And the death of family farms is part of this puzzle, 因為幾乎所有 as is almost everything 從實際消亡的社區 from the demise of the real community 到夏天為找尋美好的番茄而遇到的困難 to the challenge of finding a good tomato, even in summer. 到最後，加州生產的食物過剩 Eventually California produced too much food to ship fresh, 於是市場必須把食物裝成罐頭和冷藏 so it became critical to market canned and frozen foods. 從而更加方便運輸 Thus arrived convenience. 它們如售賣給支持女權主義的家庭主婦 It was sold to protofeminist housewives 來減少家務 as a way to cut down on housework. 我知道現在若然你們的年齡超過45歲 Now, I know everybody over the age of, like 45 -- 你們在此刻應該垂涎三尺 their mouths are watering at this point. (笑) (Laughter) (鼓掌) (Applause) 倘若我們有一張Salisbury牛排的幻燈片，你們應該更甚，對嗎? If we had a slide of Salisbury steak, even more so, right? (笑) (Laughter) 雖然這可能減少了家務 But this may have cut down on housework, 但同時亦減少我們吃食物的種類 but it cut down on the variety of food we ate as well. 很多人長大時從未吃過新鮮蔬菜 Many of us grew up never eating a fresh vegetable 除了偶然吃過生蘿蔔或古怪的椰菜沙拉 except the occasional raw carrot or maybe an odd lettuce salad. 我就是其中一位 -- 我不是說笑 -- I, for one -- and I'm not kidding -- 我未曾吃過一個真正的菠菜或西蘭花(花椰菜)直至我十九歲 didn't eat real spinach or broccoli till I was 19. 誰要這些呢?肉類到處都有 Who needed it though? Meat was everywhere. 有什麼東西比煎一塊牛排能供給你家人更加的 What could be easier, more filling or healthier for your family 簡單、飽足和健康呢? than broiling a steak? 但自此，牛隻就開始不自然地飼養 But by then cattle were already raised unnaturally. 牠們不再吃草 Rather than spending their lives eating grass, 就好像牠們的胃所設計的那樣 for which their stomachs were designed, 牠們被強迫吃著黃豆和玉米 they were forced to eat soy and corn. 當然牠們的胃不能消化這些穀物 They have trouble digesting those grains, of course, 但這對生產者來說不成問題 but that wasn't a problem for producers. 新的藥物令牠們健康 New drugs kept them healthy. 或者可以說令牠們生存 Well, they kept them alive. 與健康是兩碼子的事 Healthy was another story. 由於農業補貼、 Thanks to farm subsidies, 農產業與議會的合作 the fine collaboration between agribusiness and Congress, 黃豆、玉米和牛隻成為王者 soy, corn and cattle became king. 而雞隻也很快地加入其中 And chicken soon joined them on the throne. 就在這段時期裡 It was during this period that the cycle of 飲食的規定和地球的破壞開始了 dietary and planetary destruction began, 但我們直到現在才意識到這事實 the thing we're only realizing just now. 聽著 Listen to this, 在1950年至2000年裡，世界人口增長一倍 between 1950 and 2000, the world's population doubled. 而肉類的消耗量卻增加五倍 Meat consumption increased five-fold. 現在某些人只吃這些，因此我們有快餐 Now, someone had to eat all that stuff, so we got fast food. 這成功地解決問題 And this took care of the situation resoundingly. 在家煮食仍然普遍，但它的品質下降 Home cooking remained the norm, but its quality was down the tubes. 少了那些自家製的麵包、甜點和湯 There were fewer meals with home-cooked breads, desserts and soups, 因為它們全可在店舖裡買得到 because all of them could be bought at any store. 不是因為它們比較好，而是因為那裡可以買得到 Not that they were any good, but they were there. 很多母親像我的母親一樣 Most moms cooked like mine -- 用一片烤過的肉和一瓶沙拉醬、罐裝湯、 a piece of broiled meat, a quickly made salad with bottled dressing, 罐裝水果快速地弄成沙拉 canned soup, canned fruit salad. 或許有烤薯或馬鈴薯泥 Maybe baked or mashed potatoes 或者有史以來最愚蠢的食物 -- 一分鐘米飯 or perhaps the stupidest food ever -- Minute Rice. 關於甜點，你可在店裡買到冰淇淋或甜餅乾 For dessert, store-bought ice-cream or cookies. 我的母親不在這，所以我現在可以說 My mom is not here, so I can say this now. 這樣的煮食方法驅使我學習烹飪 This kind of cooking drove me to learn how to cook for myself. (笑) (Laughter) 不全是糟糕的事 It wasn't all bad. 在七十年代那些前衛的人 By the '70s, forward-thinking people 開始發現在地食材的價值 began to recognize the value of local ingredients. 我們走向田園，我們對有機食物更感興趣 We tended gardens, we became interested in organic food, 我們知道、或我們本身是素食者 we knew or we were vegetarians. 我們不全是嬉皮族 We weren't all hippies, either. 我們有部份人會到好的餐廳進食和學習如何煮出好的食物 Some of us were eating in good restaurants and learning how to cook well. 同時，食物的生產變成工業化。工業化 Meanwhile, food production had become industrial. Industrial. 可能是因為它們可全面生產 Perhaps because it was being produced rationally 如同塑膠一般 as if it were plastic, 食物可以供給奇妙的能量或有毒的能量，或兩者都有 food gained magical or poisonous powers, or both. 很多人得了脂肪恐懼症 Many people became fat-phobic. 有些人崇拜西蘭花如同敬拜神一樣 Others worshiped broccoli as if it were God-like. 但他們多半是不吃西蘭花的 But mostly they didn't eat broccoli. 相反地，他們被說服吃酸乳酪 (優格) Instead they were sold on yogurt, 酸乳酪差不多與西蘭花一樣有益 yogurt being almost as good as broccoli. 除了在實際情況下，他們售賣酸乳酪的方法 Except, in reality, the way the industry sold yogurt 是將它轉化成類似冰淇淋一樣的東西售賣 was to convert it to something much more akin to ice cream. 同樣地，讓我們看看能量條 (granola bar) Similarly, let's look at a granola bar. 你會想它們應該是一種健康食品 You think that that might be healthy food, 但實際上如果你看看它們的成分表 but in fact, if you look at the ingredient list, 它們類似士力架(Snickers)多於燕麥片 it's closer in form to a Snickers than it is to oatmeal. 可悲的是，就是那個時候，家庭的晚餐陷入呆板的狀態 Sadly, it was at this time that the family dinner was put in a coma, 如果不致於死亡 if not actually killed. 食品加工的全盛期開始時 The beginning of the heyday of value-added food, 食物包含很多大豆和玉米材料 which contained as many soy and corn products 添加在其中 as could be crammed into it. 想想冷藏的雞塊 Think of the frozen chicken nugget. 它們用玉米飼養雞隻，然後把牠們的肉磨碎 The chicken is fed corn, and then its meat is ground up 與摻雜更多的玉米類製品使其更加膨脹和黏結 and mixed with more corn products to add bulk and binder, 然後把它用玉米油來煎 and then it's fried in corn oil. 而你只在微波爐中加熱。還有什麼比這更好呢? All you do is nuke it. What could be better? 非常糟糕可悲 And zapped horribly, pathetically. 到了七十年代，家庭煮食變成一件可悲的狀況 By the '70s, home cooking was in such a sad state 高脂肪和香料成為食物的主要內容 that the high fat and spice contents of foods 如麥克雞塊和 Hot Pockets -- like McNuggets and Hot Pockets -- 我們其實各有所好，事實上 -- and we all have our favorites, actually -- 他們把這些東西弄得比那些在家吃到的平淡東西 made this stuff more appealing than the bland things 還要更加吸引人 that people were serving at home. 同時，大量女性加入勞動人口的行列之中 At the same time, masses of women were entering the workforce, 煮食又不足以 and cooking simply wasn't important enough 讓男士來分擔 for men to share the burden. 因此，現在你們有披薩之夜、或微波爐之夜、 So now you've got your pizza nights, you've got your microwave nights, 或小吃之夜、 you've got your grazing nights, 或自顧自之夜等等 you've got your fend-for-yourself nights and so on. 導致了 -- 這些導致了什麼? Leading the way -- what's leading the way? 肉類、垃圾食物、乳酪 Meat, junk food, cheese. 這些都在減少你的壽命 The very stuff that will kill you. 所以現在我們嚷著要有機食品 So now we clamor for organic food. 非常好 That's good. 這證明了事實上，事情是可以轉變的 And as evidence that things can actually change, 我們可在超市找到有機食物 you can now find organic food in supermarkets, 甚至在快餐連鎖店 and even in fast-food outlets. 但有機食物也不是解決方法 But organic food isn't the answer either, 至少在現在的定義下 at least not the way it's currently defined. 讓我問大家一個問題 Let me pose you a question. 農場飼養的三文魚 (鮭魚) 是否有機? Can farm-raised salmon be organic 當牠們所吃的食物不是自然的食品 when its feed has nothing to do with its natural diet, 就算牠們所吃的食物是有機，牠們被擠在 even if the feed itself is supposedly organic, and the fish themselves 魚池裡，在自己的污穢物中游泳 are packed tightly in pens, swimming in their own filth? 如果在智利的三文魚在智利被殺 And if that salmon's from Chile and it's killed down there 然後飛往五千英里外 and then flown 5,000 miles, whatever, 在大氣中產生這麼多二氧化碳，這樣仍然有機? dumping how much carbon into the atmosphere? 我不知道 I don't know. 當然包裝在聚苯乙烯泡沫塑料中 Packed in Styrofoam, of course, 然後才在美國境內某一處著陸 before landing somewhere in the United States 然後再被卡車運送幾百英里 and then being trucked a few hundred more miles. 你可以在字眼上說牠們是有機，但牠們本質上肯定不是 This may be organic in letter, but it's surely not organic in spirit. 我們在此相遇 Now here is where we all meet. 土食主義者、有機主義者、素食主義者、 The locavores, the organivores, the vegetarians, 嚴守素食主義者、美食家、 the vegans, the gourmets 和那些純粹喜歡美味食物的人 and those of us who are just plain interested in good food. 雖然我們的出發點不同 Even though we've come to this from different points, 我們都可憑我們的學識來 we all have to act on our knowledge 改變所有人對食物的看法 to change the way that everyone thinks about food. 我們必須行動 We need to start acting. 這不單只是安古柏所說的社會正義 -- And this is not only an issue of social justice, as Ann Cooper said -- 當然她說的完全對 -- and of course she's completely right -- 但這亦是有關地球的存亡 but it's also one of global survival. 我們回到問題的關鍵 Which bring me full circle and points directly to the core issue, 肉類和垃圾食物的過份生產與過度消耗 the over-production and over-consumption of meat and junk food. 如我之前所說，百分之十八的溫室氣體 As I said, 18 percent of greenhouse gases 是歸咎於家畜的生產 are attributed to livestock production. 需要多少的家畜才能產生這些呢? How much livestock do you need to produce this? 地球上有百分之七十的農地 70 percent of the agricultural land on earth. 在地球上有百分之三十的土地是直接或間接用於 30 percent of the earth's land surface is directly or indirectly devoted 飼養那些供給我們食用的家畜上 to raising the animals we'll eat. 而這個數量預計在未來的四十年裡增加一倍 And this amount is predicted to double in the next 40 years or so. 如果這個數字是來自中國 And if the numbers coming in from China 是我們現在看見它們的那樣 are anything like what they look like now, 這將不需要四十年 it's not going to be 40 years. 我們沒理由像那樣吃這麼多肉 There is no good reason for eating as much meat as we do. 我是以一個這輩子吃了相當份量鹹牛肉的人的身份這麼說的 And I say this as a man who has eaten a fair share of corned beef in his life. 最常見的反駁是: 我們需要營養 The most common argument is that we need nutrients -- 即使我們平均食用的蛋白質已相當於 even though we eat, on average, twice as much protein 美國食物安全管理局所建議的兩倍 as even the industry-obsessed USDA recommends. 但聽著 -- 那些對減少疾病非常認真的專家 But listen -- experts who are serious about disease reduction 建議每一位成年人每一星期食少於半磅的肉 recommend that adults eat just over half a pound of meat per week. 你知不知你每天吃多少肉? 半磅 What do you think we eat per day? Half a pound. 我們不是需要肉類來使我們更壯健和強大嗎? But don't we need meat to be big and strong? 肉類不是對我們的健康很重要嗎? Isn't meat-eating essential to health? 過多的水果和蔬菜不是把我們 Won't a diet heavy in fruit and vegetables 變成無慾無求，缺乏剛陽味和自由派嗎? turn us into godless, sissy, liberals? (笑) (Laughter) 某些人認為這可能是不錯的事情 Some of us might think that would be a good thing. 但不是，縱然你是一個填滿類固醇的美式足球員 But, no, even if we were all steroid-filled football players, 那個答案仍然是"不" the answer is no. 而事實上,世上沒有一個滿足基本營養需求的飲食 In fact, there's no diet on earth that meets 是不促使成長 basic nutritional needs that won't promote growth, 而有很多東西能比我們現在的更健康 and many will make you much healthier than ours does. 我們不是為了有充足的營養才吃肉類食物 We don't eat animal products for sufficient nutrition, 吃牠們反令我們營養不良，並把我們推向死亡 we eat them to have an odd form of malnutrition, and it's killing us. 為了美國人的個人以及人類的健康著想 To suggest that in the interests of personal and human health 吃比現在少一半的肉類 -- Americans eat 50 percent less meat -- 這個減少雖然不夠，但也是個開始 it's not enough of a cut, but it's a start. 它看上去好像很荒謬，但這正是應該發生的事情 It would seem absurd, but that's exactly what should happen, 亦是那些進步的人、思慮周全的人 and what progressive people, forward-thinking people 所應該做和應該鼓吹的事情 should be doing and advocating, 同時，相應地增加食用蔬菜 along with the corresponding increase in the consumption of plants. 我過去三十年來一直寫作不同種類的食物 I've been writing about food more or less omnivorously -- 可說是沒有任何揀選 one might say indiscriminately -- for about 30 years. 在那時候我吃著和 During that time I've eaten 鼓勵別人吃著所有東西 and recommended eating just about everything. 我不會停止吃動物，我確信 I'll never stop eating animals, I'm sure, 但我相信為著所有人的利益著想 but I do think that for the benefit of everyone, 現在是時候停止用工業式的方式飼養牠們 the time has come to stop raising them industrially 和無意識的濫吃 and stop eating them thoughtlessly. 安古柏說得對 Ann Cooper's right. 美國食物安全管理局不是我們的盟友 The USDA is not our ally here. 我們必須靠自己的雙手 We have to take matters into our own hands, 不單向別人鼓吹一個更好的飲食方式 -- not only by advocating for a better diet for everyone -- 這是最難的一部分 -- 亦必須改善自己的飲食 and that's the hard part -- but by improving our own. 這相對比較容易 And that happens to be quite easy. 少肉,少垃圾食物，多蔬菜 Less meat, less junk, more plants. 用這個簡易的方程式來進食 It's a simple formula -- eat food. 食真的食物 Eat real food. 我們可繼續享受食物，我們繼續吃得健康 We can continue to enjoy our food, and we continue to eat well, 而我們可以吃得更好 and we can eat even better. 我們可以繼續尋找我們喜歡的食材 We can continue the search for the ingredients we love, 我們可以繼續講有關我們所喜歡的佳餚的故事 and we can continue to spin yarns about our favorite meals. 我們不但能減少卡路里亦能減少碳排放 We'll reduce not only calories, but our carbon footprint. 我們令食物更加重要而不是輕視它們 We can make food more important, not less, 我們亦把自己拯救出來 and save ourselves by doing so. 我們必須作出這個選擇 We have to choose that path. (謝謝) Thank you.