The Essence of Surfing

♪ ♪ ♪ I forgot your name ♪ ♪ Written on a window pane ♪ ♪ So tell me again ♪ ♪ ♪ You wrote me a song ♪ ♪ Sang it to me on and on ♪ ♪ Till noise is gone ♪ ♪ ♪ I would fall asleep ♪ ♪ Thinking of the ways to be untied and free ♪ Being a surfer means a variety of things to many people. But for most, being a surfer and riding waves like the ancient Polynesians who were the founders of surfing, there is no greater joy to experience or to share. Which is why we made this film. It's a journey into the understanding of what makes surfing the greatest sport in the world. We went out and interviewed surfers of all kinds. Professionals, amateurs, first-timers, in hopes of capturing and sharing with the world what we believe to be the essence of surfing. ♪ 'Cause I got lost in ♪ ♪ The sea, man ♪ ♪ Too much talking ♪ ♪ Not for me ♪ ♪ ♪ All the wrong things ♪ ♪ Deliver me ♪ ♪ I'll sail my own way ♪ ♪ To the far end ♪♪ ♪ ♪ There's no disputing it, once you've ridden a wave and the surfing bug bites, you can't help but fall in love with it. So, tell us what you love about surfing. Surfing, to me, is, uh, I guess it's my lifestyle, it's a hobby, it's a job, it's a life. ♪ Surfing's such a natural high that you don't need anything else, there's nothing that can really compare to that. For me, it never gets old, there's always something to work on. Your timing, your technique, uh, your wave position, workin' on new maneuvers. It doesn't matter how good you are, when you are surfing you feel like a million bucks, and it's still as addicting as it was the first day, and my first memories of it. I started very young, feel like somewhat of a veteran, but yet I'm also getting to the age where you become much more conservative. Uh, we used to drive around when we were young looking for the largest waves to ride, now we drive around looking for the smallest ones. I spent a lifetime chasing giant surf. My passion and my love for chasing giant surf has not stopped, it hasn't been slowed down, really that much. ♪ Answer me ♪ ♪ Is this where I'm supposed to be ♪ ♪ Could we spend all of our time apart ♪ ♪ When you're away I fall apart ♪ ♪ Could I survive ♪ ♪ Without your heartbeat next to mine ♪ ♪ Could this be love ♪ ♪ Only time will tell ♪♪ ♪ (waves crashing) ♪ As any surfer can tell you, there's no better feeling than when you first start riding waves. It's a feeling that will live with you for the rest of your life. Okay, so tell us about your first surfing experience. My first memory of surfing was at Malaekahana, being pushed into waves in the shore break at Malaekahana when I was, I don't know, four, five years old. From the first time I can remember standing on a board, that was all I wanted to do, I was surfing, I was skim boarding, we called it sand sliding back then. ♪ The first wave I ever caught, uh, it was freezing cold, I was wearing a 3/2 wetsuit with no booties, and I was numb, so I would have to say it was-- it was a numbing experience but it felt fantastic. ♪ I think the first wave when I was actually in control, and I made it to the end of the wave, and I felt such a sense of accomplishment. You suddenly feel very giant when you've kicked out of your first wave. I just remember being happy and just cruising and never having that experience before. Just laughing, and cracking up, and my eyes being wide open, and me having just the biggest smile I've ever had on my face. We would hitch hike up to Malibu and then behind the fence there, there was this board left by a vet that was off to the war, this was 1945, but it took about a week to get into a wave. And then once I got into a wave it was another week of pearling on every wave I got into. ♪ I really feel like, um, coming from my background, you know, um, being not underprivileged, but, you know, we grew up on welfare basically, and we never had a lot, and surfing, for me, was kinda like, you know, this is my ticket out of here. ♪ ♪ Wake up early ♪ ♪ Get all dressed up ♪ ♪ Put your hair back, sweet darling ♪ ♪ You don't need your makeup ♪ ♪ We're gonna drive all day ♪ ♪ Just me and my baby ♪ ♪ ♪ Windows down, the wind blows through ♪ ♪ Make a quick stop for some coffee ♪ ♪ Then have a smoke too ♪ ♪ We're gonna drive all day ♪ ♪ Just me and my baby ♪ ♪ ♪ We're gonna drive all day ♪ ♪ Just me and my baby ♪ ♪ ♪ We're going down with the top down ♪ ♪ On the road ♪ ♪ Time and place, it ain't a race ♪ ♪ On the road ♪ ♪ On the road ♪ ♪ Silver and gold ♪ ♪ But you'll find ♪ ♪ I don't need no precious metal ♪ ♪ I've already got mine ♪ ♪ We're gonna drive all day ♪ ♪ Just me and my baby ♪♪ ♪ (engine whirring) Travelling as a surfer means experiencing different geographies, different cultures, and different oceans. You never know what's in store for you when you go on a surfing trip. And that's one of the things that makes it so amazing. Talk about travelling as a surfer. Yeah, for me, travelling is amazing, just to be able to go away, explore new locations, kinda see the different cultures, and ride with different people, it's something that I couldn't live without. ♪ I've travelled so many years, um, you know, like, eight or nine months of the year, just travelling around the world, and it's, it's neat you go to, you go to Africa and you see these little kids running, and playing, and they have nothing there but they always have a big smile on their face. And I get to learn a little bit of different languages around the world, and learn their culture, and be a brother of-- everyone in the world's a brother and a sister, and it's all one big family. ♪ Being able to meet other people from across the world, and travel, and being able to show someone the love, and the happiness, and the joy is really important to me because it puts a smile on other peoples' faces, and I love seeing people smile. Well, I've been travelling pretty much non stop since I was 13 years old. So, for me, travel's like, in my blood. You know, I've got friends all over the world, I've got, you know, towns in the middle of nowhere in Germany or in the south of France that I know as nearly as well as my hometown here, which is kinda weird. I mean, I've touched every continent filming surfing. I've been to...probably 20 countries or so chasing waves around the world. ♪ You know, when you see a swell on the map and you get to-- get to pick where you wanna go and what sort of waves you wanna surf, that's, uh, that's really, really fun, especially when it all pays off after all the long times you travel and you get good waves, and, you know, sometimes you get barrels of your life, and, uh, yeah, that's really--it's really enjoyable, for sure. Stop wastin' your time in Procrastinationville, folks. ♪ Sheesh. ♪ ♪ Wastin' my time in Procrastinationville ♪ ♪ Waitin' to find a million bucks ♪ ♪ Oh oh ♪ ♪ Brother and sister, Mom and Dad ♪ ♪ I've had my fill, don't look so sad ♪ ♪ Now I'm on my own so what the-- ♪ ♪ Wastin' my time in Margaritaville ♪ ♪ ♪ Don't know which way I must go ♪ ♪ Wastin' my time in Margaritaville ♪ ♪ ♪ Centuries I had to go ♪ ♪ Oh oh oh oh ♪ ♪ ♪ I had to go ♪ ♪ ♪ I may not race to the break of dawn ♪ ♪ I'm slammin' air like it's a joke ♪ ♪ Oh oh ♪ ♪ Laughin' and jokin', singin' and cryin' ♪ ♪ Dancin' and smokin', buffin' and dyin' ♪ ♪ Fed up with hangin' with this here folk ♪ ♪ Oh oh ♪ ♪ Wastin' my time in Margaritaville ♪ ♪ ♪ Don't know which way I must go ♪ ♪ Oh oh ♪ ♪ Wastin' my time in Margaritaville ♪ ♪ Yeah yeah ♪ ♪ Centuries I had to go ♪ ♪ Oh oh oh ♪ ♪ I've seen your thoughts and I've seen your dreams ♪ ♪ ♪ So come on, darlin', come on please ♪ ♪ I've seen your thoughts and I've seen your dreams ♪ ♪ ♪ So come on darlin', come on please ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ Wastin' my time in Margaritaville ♪ ♪ ♪ Don't know which way I must go ♪ ♪ Oh oh ♪ ♪ Wastin' my time in Margaritaville ♪ ♪ Yeah yeah ♪ ♪ Centuries I had to go ♪ ♪ Oh oh oh oh ♪♪ ♪ ♪ Now, the ocean is alive and always changing, and for as great as that is when it sends waves your way, eventually the ocean always goes flat, and we must all find other things to do to kill time until the next swell hits. So what do you do when the waves go flat? I'm stoked when there's no waves usually. 'Cause I'm either gonna go diving or I'm gonna go hunting. I always have something to do. When you are a skater you have a bowl there, and you go, and, you know, you do your skate stuff whenever you feel like. But when you're a surfer you gotta deal with-- with the nature, you know, so you gotta wait for the perfect waves, you gotta wait to be able to surf, so it's a, it's a game that you have to play. A situation when you have no waves is--the trade off is you get visibility underwater, so all those, uh, mysteries that you ignored for years, you can go down underneath the water when the waves are flat and find out what's there, find out what you've been sitting on top of all those years. You know, I'll go, I'll go stand up paddle, or I'll go, I'll go to the gym. I, um, I DJ as a hobby, and so I'm constantly downloading music, and there's all kinds of stuff to do, I don't get bored much. I'm lucky enough that, you know, when the waves go flat I have so many different options to do, you know. For me, you know, at heart, I'm definitely surfing all the time, like, that's where my heart is at, but I'm able to all these other sports like windsurfing, and kite surfing, and stand up paddling, and, um, canoe paddling, and basically anything that involves the water, and that keeps me on the water 100 percent. So when the waves go flat, I like to go dirt biking in the mountains, I like to go mountain biking in the mountains, I like to kitesurf, I like to free dive, swim in the ocean. But, you know, at the end of the day, no matter what you're doing, it's all about having fun. ♪ ♪ ♪ Oh, feels like I'm trapped in a box again ♪ (unintelligible lyrics) ♪ ♪ I can't wake up, wake up, wake up ♪ ♪ To hear the sound of my heart caving in ♪ ♪ I won't make up, make up, make up any excuses ♪ ♪ When I won't know where to begin ♪ ♪ What comes after us ♪ ♪ So unfair ♪ ♪ That my words tumble out ♪ ♪ And no one cares ♪ ♪ We can't stay long ♪ ♪ Now we know ♪ ♪ I can't take it anymore ♪ ♪ There she goes ♪ ♪ Take control of everything ♪ ♪ She knows something's gonna have to change ♪ ♪ No time for all these little petty games ♪ ♪ Acting like we're both the same ♪ ♪ Is there any other way ♪ ♪ These words I say are true ♪ ♪ My words were meant for you ♪ ♪ This time I'm not even gonna try to act like you still know ♪ ♪ Close your eyes and tell me now ♪ ♪ What does it feel like to be me ♪ ♪ What does it feel like ♪ ♪ What does it feel like to be me ♪ ♪ What does it feel like ♪ ♪ What does it feel like to be me ♪♪ ♪ There are many comparable waves around the globe. Each wave has certain characteristics that define it. Yet there's only one wave that virtually every other wave is compared to. A wave that may be, arguably, the most important wave in the world: Pipeline. It's what every surfer dreams of, you know, it's just getting deep in a barrel, it's--as hucking that one is, you know, Pipe is just-- it's out of this world. ♪ I love surfing Pipeline, um, it's a very challenging wave. Um, you can get lickings out there and it's definitely one of the hardest waves when it comes to like, the crowd, you know, guys are pretty ruthless out there. Um, but when you get a good wave at Pipe, you know, it's, it's so amazing, and such a beautiful-- it's just such a beautiful wave. ♪ Pipeline, for me, it's like, okay, big challenger, you know, I feel scared, at the same time I feel a lot of adrenaline 'cause I know that I have a good relationship with that wave, I've scored so many good waves at Pipe and Backdoor, and that's why it's the most famous wave in the world, you know, because, that wave, it's very special, you know. I wish you could have so many Pipes all over the world, it'd be unreal to have one in Brazil, right in front of my house, it would be great. (laughing) I feel like if you're not scared of Pipeline, then you don't truly respect Pipeline. So, for me, you know, I'd say, I'd say it's a scary wave. Um, I think of it, and I just think of the power of the ocean, uh, the creation of Mother Nature, and, uh, how we get to enjoy what she has created for us. Pipeline, to me, is home, it's some of my fondest early surfing memories. I just feel so at home being at afternoon, back-lit, big, beautiful Pipeline. It reminds me of the North Shore that I know and love, and the North Shore that I wanna remember when I'm looking at that wave. The hardest thing about catching waves at Pipeline is that there's 35 guys that are all my friends, that I pretty much grew up with, that are all really good surfers that want big Pipeline barrels, so it's like, okay, everybody's gotta somehow figure out a way to take turns, and be courteous, and, you know, it's a big, dysfunctional family. ♪ ♪ There's blood on my jeans ♪ ♪ Ever since I turned 18 ♪ ♪ The washer won't make them clean ♪ ♪ Washer won't make them clean ♪ ♪ There's things I've said ♪ ♪ Only to later regret ♪ ♪ The washer won't make them clean ♪ ♪ Washer won't make them clean ♪ ♪ ♪ Life I have learned ♪ ♪ When and where it's not my turn ♪ ♪ I want 'em, but they don't want me ♪ ♪ Oh, my wishing's out of key ♪ ♪ 'Cause time's on my hands ♪ ♪ Just enough for my old plan ♪ ♪ I want them but they don't want me ♪ ♪ Want them but they don't want me ♪ ♪ They're gonna ♪ ♪ ♪ I go to church and you would only burn me ♪ ♪ You would delight in me to tell you more ♪ ♪ You wrote the way of how we are to learn and bring ♪ ♪ And it's time I said no ♪ ♪ My head's sayin' yes and go ♪ ♪ Down this dirty, crooked road ♪ ♪ I'll go alone ♪ ♪ I'll go alone ♪ ♪ Oh, I ♪ ♪ ♪ My mind is a test ♪ ♪ Always forced to make a guess ♪ ♪ I practice but I do not preach ♪ ♪ Listen but I do not speak ♪ ♪ I see through my dreams ♪ ♪ Wake up with no memory ♪ ♪ The soundless melody ♪ ♪ Soundless melody ♪ ♪ Let's talk about love ♪ ♪ Not the kind from up above ♪ ♪ I'm a filthy human being ♪ ♪ We are filthy human beings ♪ ♪ Lines I've crossed ♪ ♪ Only gonna make me lost ♪ ♪ I'm going home ♪ ♪ Why do you smile like that ♪ ♪ Turn around and shake my hand ♪ ♪ Be who we are ♪ ♪ Go big ♪ ♪ 'Cause I'm going home ♪ ♪ Make my head say yes ♪ ♪ And go ♪ ♪ ♪ Down this dirty, crooked road ♪ ♪ I'll go alone ♪ ♪ I'll go alone ♪ ♪ Oh I ♪ ♪ I go to church and you would only burn me ♪ ♪ You would delight in me to tell you more ♪ ♪ You wrote the way of how we are to learn and bring ♪ ♪ And it's time I said no ♪ ♪ Make my head say yes and go ♪ ♪ Down this dirty, crooked road ♪ ♪ I'll go alone ♪ ♪ I'll go alone ♪♪ ♪ (waves breaking) ♪ Now, one of the things about surfing that is inherent with the sport is wiping out. It can be a fun experience, or your worst nightmare. One thing is for sure, though. When you come up from a big wipeout, you've never felt so alive. Tell us about wiping out. Wiping out comes with the territory. It's something I do a lot, obviously. You just--I, I really don't think you're trying if you're not wiping out, you're not trying to push yourself to the edge of your ability, and to go beyond, you know, you have to take that risk and it's--it's a number's game, it's not always going to go in your favor every time, and that's just something you gotta accept and prepare for, really. ♪ I think wipeouts are great, it makes you feel alive, and they're just so quick and so violent that you really-- You're--you're helpless, you're a ragdoll, and you're really just hoping, you know, that someone's looking over you, and going, "All right," you know, your head sometimes probably comes that close to the reef, and you just don't even know it, you know, or that close to the--your fin of your surfboard, or just any limb of your body, you don't even know. You know, it's one of those things that--it's a job requirement. When I wipeout, you're just getting rag dolled from side to side, up, down, hitting the reef, you just gotta tell yourself, "I'm fine, I'm fine, I'm fine." Yeah, wipeouts are-- it's very interesting, because I've always been terrified of getting destroyed on a big wave, or even just waves in general, because it's just so intense, and you're kind of really, out of control, and I think any time you're out of control, you definitely don't feel your best, and you know, for me, now, as I get older, I'm learning to, you know, feel comfortable in those situations and it's crazy, you know, when you have a really big wipeout it's almost better than having a really good ride, because it brings your mental state of mind to this next level where your confidence is just that much more than what it would have been if you made a sketchy ride, and you just--the unknown always scares you, so if you can take a big wipeout and kind of know that unknown a bit more, you're gonna feel way more comfortable. ♪ Sometimes you can have the-- you know, you're having the best session, you're just nailing every shot. Boom, boom, boom, boom, and then some guy will yell, "Outside!" And then you think you're gonna make it and you dive under the wave and then you just get clipped, and all of a sudden you get the air knocked out of you, and then all of a sudden from having the best time in the world you're all of a sudden, you're trying to gasp for air, and then the next lip is coming down on your head, and--and so, it can go from extreme fun to extreme panic in a blink of an eye, and I think that's happened to every surfer and every cameraman out there. ♪ This wave came and it was so beautiful, I was just hypnotized looking at this wave. And it broke right on top of me, and I was just-- I wasn't diving under or anything, I was just looking at this wave and kind of hooting and wondering at how wonderful this wave was, it was so beautiful. And that took me down to the bottom, and it was black, and I started to come up, and I saw this-- white water--the shadow of the next wave coming, and I got pushed back down, and I was down there for two waves, but it didn't really faze me that much, and-- But I realized then that you don't sit inside looking at a wave breaking on top of you. Basically, the worst thing that you can do is tense up or panic, and burn through your oxygen. What I try and do, is just go, "Oh, well. This isn't gonna be real good for the next 30 seconds or so." And just kind of lighten it up, because then you kind of relax, or at least, that's what works for me, I try and just giggle about it a little bit. The surfers used to say, "You sing the Brady Bunch theme song or something, to just sort of take your mind off the next 30 seconds." Because the next 30 seconds are gonna suck. ♪ ♪ Take my eyes out with the knife ♪ ♪ I gave you for your birthday ♪ ♪ I've been so blind for all these years ♪ ♪ It doesn't matter anymore ♪ ♪ Tastes so bitter, oh, you're such a quitter ♪ ♪ Could you get any sicker ♪ ♪ Dreaming in black and white ♪ ♪ 'Cause you taste so bitter, oh, you're such a quitter ♪ ♪ Could you get any sicker ♪ ♪ Calibrate ♪ ♪ So tell me, tell me, why ♪ ♪ Everything's so clear ♪ ♪ Tell me, tell me, why ♪ ♪ How'd I make it here ♪ ♪ Tell me, tell me, why ♪ ♪ Would I do this to myself ♪ ♪ Yeah ♪ ♪ Take notes, rewind ♪ ♪ You don't exist if you're willing to waste your time ♪ ♪ Slow down, somehow ♪ ♪ Take a chance if you're willing to cross the line ♪ ♪ How do you do what you do, what you do to me ♪ ♪ I guess we'll have to wait and see ♪ ♪ ♪ Slash my mouth and fill the cuts with salt ♪ ♪ And shots of whiskey ♪ ♪ One last time to change your mind ♪ ♪ To change the skin you're living in ♪ ♪ Because you taste so bitter, oh, you're such a quitter ♪ ♪ Could you get any sicker ♪ ♪ Dreaming in black and white ♪ ♪ 'Cause you taste so bitter, oh, you're such a quitter ♪ ♪ Could you get any sicker ♪ ♪ Calibrate ♪ ♪ So tell me, tell me, why ♪ ♪ Everything's so clear ♪ ♪ Tell me, tell me, why ♪ ♪ How'd I make it here ♪ ♪ Tell me, tell me, why ♪ ♪ And why'd I do this to myself ♪ ♪ Yeah ♪ ♪ Take notes, rewind ♪ ♪ You don't exist if you're willing to waste your time ♪ ♪ Slow down, somehow ♪ ♪ Take a chance if you're willing to cross the line ♪ ♪ How do you do what you do, what you do to me ♪ ♪ Well, I guess we'll have to wait and see ♪ ♪ ♪ I guess we'll have to wait and see ♪ ♪ Take notes, rewind ♪ ♪ You don't exist if you're willing to waste your time ♪ ♪ Slow down, somehow ♪ ♪ Take a chance if you're willing to cross the line ♪ ♪ How do you do what you do, what you do to me ♪ ♪ Well, I guess we'll have to wait and see ♪♪ (waves lapping at boat) ♪ ♪ Every surfer has a limit for the size of waves they surf. And everyone's limit is different. But one of the things that surfers have in common is that we are each constantly pushing our limits no matter what they are in search of what we are capable of. There's nothing more fulfilling or gratifying than being able to say, "That's the biggest wave I've ever caught." Tell us about surfing big waves, and how it makes you feel. There's no other comparison, you know, when you release down into that huge, open ocean face, you know, it feels like you're going 50 miles an hour, and there's just an incredible amount of adrenaline wrenching through every blood vessel in your body, you know, you get to the bottom, and you just lay into your turn, and it's just like you're striving to make it to the other end of the wave, and it's just the most insane feeling, I can't even begin to describe it. If you take a look at the way kids surf now, with their--with their aerials and their floaters, and how--how they're--they're just unbelievable. But as it gets bigger, you know, you end up having to have a gun, if it's really big, like at Waimea, you gotta have a board that's nine feet or ten feet or eleven feet, and it has to be without a lot of rocker. It has to be a certain shape and that shape and that kind of board didn't change that much from the late '50s. People say we didn't have the right equipment, but I think we did have pretty good equipment. I like surfing big waves, 'cause it's just the adrenaline of like, just dropping in and having the wind just rushing through your face. It's just so much fun. I still like small waves, but I like bigger waves better. I like to surf big waves, so when I ride a wave, and I catch a wave, it gives me a huge rush. Before I paddle out, I always get the chills, but I guess that's a good thing. Surfing big waves is just the ultimate litmus test for where you are in your life at that time. Sometimes you're in the mood, sometimes you're not. Sometimes you feel comfortable in the ocean, sometimes it's just, you know, you feel like a cat in water, just, it's so interesting, but trying to get your head in the game, whether you've been traveling for two days, you're dehydrated, tired, haven't slept, or you're 100 percent, and you just walked out of your front door into big surf. I just love that challenge. ♪ ♪ ♪ I keep running ♪ ♪ Runnin' from the faces of my fears ♪ ♪ ♪ And I keep chasin' ♪ ♪ Chasin' my dreams as they disappear ♪ ♪ ♪ I don't know when I'm gonna find some courage ♪ ♪ When I'm gonna find some courage ♪ ♪ Oh, when I'm gonna find some courage ♪ ♪ To let go ♪ ♪ I don't know, I don't know ♪ ♪ No, I don't know ♪ ♪ I keep fightin' ♪ ♪ Fightin' for freedom that ain't near ♪ ♪ ♪ And I keep hearin' ♪ ♪ Hearin' that bell ringin' in my ear ♪ ♪ ♪ Don't know when I'm gonna find some courage ♪ ♪ Oh, when I'm gonna find some courage ♪ ♪ Oh, when I'm gonna find some courage ♪ ♪ To let go ♪ ♪ I don't know, I don't know ♪ ♪ No, I don't know ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ I don't know when I'm gonna find some courage ♪ ♪ Oh, when I'm gonna find some courage ♪ ♪ Oh, when I'm gonna find some courage ♪ ♪ To let go ♪ ♪ No, I don't know ♪ ♪ No, I don't know ♪ ♪ No, I don't know ♪ ♪ No, I don't know ♪ ♪ No, I don't know ♪ ♪ No, I don't know ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ I don't know ♪ ♪ I don't know ♪ ♪ No, I don't know ♪ ♪ No, I don't know ♪♪ ♪ As every sun rises, the sun also sets, in preparation to reveal a new day. And with some good fortune, a new swell. But until that new day, it's important to always appreciate every wave we catch, for so few on this planet will ever understand what it feels like to glide on water, to ride in the footsteps of all that have come before, and to never forget the true essence of surfing. ♪ Some respects and handed down ♪ ♪ Existential ♪ You know, I think when you get down to just the whole essence of why I surf, it's to have fun. ♪ I die to drown ♪ ♪ In a tin foil climate ♪ ♪ Oh, my stars ♪ ♪ Oh, my stars ♪ I'm super grateful, you know, to have found surfing at a young age and feel super blessed for all that it's given me, and to be able to share that with different people that are from around the world. They're stoked, they got a big smile on their face, they're like, "Yeah!" They're claiming it. It's why I surf. There's some pure moments. I recommend people be courteous, you know. I see a lot of snaking, you know, people taking off on the shoulder and snaking somebody, you know, holding the guy back into the white water and getting the wave, a good wave for himself, but screwing the guy that's on the inside. Those things were just rules that we just-- we wouldn't tolerate that in the old days. Being from the east coast of Canada, when you finish a good session with the boys you just look at one another and say, "Buddy, that's some time." Try to enjoy your time in the water, but also help anybody else that looks like they might need it. ♪ Seven angels in heaven's dress ♪ ♪ Rain on me ♪ ♪ Surfing makes you wanna do it again and again and again, and it's not as easy as it looks. It's something that you cannot describe in words. You gotta--if you have a chance one day, you gotta go out and try. ♪ I've been trying to search for you in the stars ♪ And you know, it's just all about the experience and making the most of your everyday, and to never take one thing in life for granted, and to always have a smile on your face. ♪ A light before my eyes ♪ I love surfing. Doesn't matter how big it is. I love it. ♪ Tell me, love ♪ ♪ How can you see so cleverly ♪ ♪ So clearly what was right ♪ ♪ ♪ So clearly what was right all this time ♪ ♪ ♪ So clearly what was right all your life ♪♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ Slow down, you're driving me crazy ♪ ♪ I'm pushing up daisies ♪ ♪ That I hope you'll find ♪ ♪ Outside, right by the turn off ♪ ♪ They're burning the tulip that we promised on ♪ ♪ Was I acting out, oh so out of line ♪ ♪ Washed up again with the morning's tide ♪ ♪ I'm not looking out to be satisfied ♪ ♪ Is there any way that you're gonna ♪ ♪ Change my mind ♪ ♪ I know you're waiting, baby, for me ♪ ♪ I know you're waiting, baby, for me ♪ ♪ I know you're waiting for me ♪ ♪ Hold onto the dreams now ♪ ♪ I'll be back soon as I can ♪ ♪ Nothing can keep us away from the pain ♪♪ ♪ ♪