Amazing Color: Horizontal and Vertical Foiling Techniques

[Instrumental music] Before we start placing our foils, we have to section off the head. This will help to keep our foils consistent and prevent us from losing our place. What we are about to show is the sectioning for both Horizontal and Vertical Foiling techniques. Begin by separating right from left by creating a center part. Make sure the part extends from the front of the hairline all the way to the back of the hairline in the nape area. Then separate front from back by placing your comb on top of the head and finding where the comb rests evenly balanced. This is the high point. Separate front from back by parting from the high point to the natural break just behind the ear on both sides. Separate the sides from the top by finding the parietal ridge. Place your comb on the side of the head. Where the comb raises off or leaves the head is the parietal ridge. Take a horizontal part that extends from the front of the hairline to the vertical part just behind the ear. Do this on both sides and clip each section. This horizontal parting will continue through to the center back and help us in finding the crown area. Another way to find the crown is to use the round of the head. Place your comb flat in the crown area. Where it lifts off or leaves the head shape is where we make the parting. Clip up the crown area. Finally, separate the nape from the back by placing your comb flat against the nape area. Where the comb lifts off or leaves the head shape is where we make our horizontal part. From the back view we will have six sections: the nape, right and left sides, the back right and left sides, and the crown, right and left sides. From the top, we will see two sections: the top right and the top left sides. From the side view, we will see the right and left sides individually. Horizontal placement is used to create a heavier look in the final color result. Each foiled section of the hair ultimately ends up falling on top of each other, giving the final result a more solid appearance. Begin on the right side in the nape area by placing the client's head slightly forward. Take a 1/8 to 1/4 inch horizontal section. In this case, we will create a standard stitch or weave. Think of sewing and move your tail comb evenly up and down through the section. Take the hair and place it onto a foil. Start the application of your product approximately one inch from the scalp area and then slowly work the product up to the edge of the foil. This will prevent the product from seeping on to the hair. Make sure not to swirl the ends; this may cause uneven color results. Instead, fold the hair onto itself and apply product. Fold or cover with foil. Drop down the next half-inch section. This leaves a section of uncolored hair between the weave and creates the dimension desired with this type of highlight service. Consider to stitch from the top 1/8 to 1/4 inch as before. Complete the entire nape section and repeat on the left side of the nape. [Instrumental music] Next move up to the back section on the right side. Take the same size sections and stitches as you did in the nape. [Instrumental music] As you work in this section, the head becomes wider and it may be necessary to place foils side-by-side to accommodate the section. Complete the entire section and repeat on the back left side. The next section is the front right side. Continue weaving using a standard stitch and 1/8 to 1/4 horizontal sections as before. Watch how you normally weave. There might be a natural tendency to always pick up what's closest to the hairline and leave out the other side of the stitch. With horizontal foiling, this could leave one side looking heavily highlighted, or lighter around the face and less highlighted, or darker, on the opposite side. Consistency is key. Here's a tip: Be sure to include the hairline in every other foil. Complete this section and repeat on the front left side. [Instrumental music] Move to the right side top section. Continue as before. Watch for over-direction and changes in the head shape. If the section is too wide, you may need to place foils side-by-side as in the back. A good measure is the distance between your middle and first finger. [Instrumental music] Begin the application keeping both the section size and stitch consistent. Continue to alternate your weave with the front hairline. When working next to the part line, intentionally leave a veil of natural hair separate to keep the dimension consistent. [Instrumental music] When placing foils side-by-side, be sure to brick-lay for consistency. For example, place a wider section on top of and next to a narrower section. Complete the section and repeat on the left side top section. [Instrumental music] Move to the back of the head to work in the crown area. Begin on the right side and weave with consistent stitches. A hot tip would be to consider brick-laying the foils in this area to accommodate the shape of your client's head. Complete the crown area still utilizing horizontal sections. [Instrumental music] Here is the completed view of what horizontal placement will look like. [Instrumental music] Vertical placement is most commonly used to reduce visual weight. It will give a strong visual result and it tends to draw the eyes up and down. Begin on right side of the nape area behind the right ear. Pick a 1/8 to 1/4 inch vertical section. Choose your stitch. In this case, we will create a thin slice. Take the hair that has been sliced and place it onto a foil. Another tip would be to make sure the top of the section is being elevated straight out from the head. If the elevation is dropped, it will be harder to keep the foils in place. Introduce the color approximately one inch from the scalp area and then slowly work the product up to the edge of the foil. This will prevent the product from seeping or bleeding onto the hair. [Instrumental music] Make sure not to swirl the ends. This may cause uneven color results. Instead, fold the hair onto itself and apply the product with even saturation. Fold or cover with foil. When working in the nape, it will help to stay vertical by placing the client's head slightly forward. As the head shape changes, continue to move the position of your client's head to insure proper vertical placement. Take another vertical half-inch section. Continue to slice from the top 1/8 to 1/4 inch as before. This leaves a section of uncolored hair between the slices and creates the dimension desired with this type of highlight service. Complete the entire section and repeat on the left side of the nape. [Instrumental music] Begin the back section on the right side just behind the ear. Take the same size sections and slice as you did in the nape. [Instrumental music] Complete the entire section and repeat on the left-side back. [Instrumental music] The next section is the front right side. Continue as before. Place the first foil at the back of the ear and work toward the hairline. Make sure to lean the client's head to the left for easier foiling. [Instrumental music] Complete the section. Leave a slight veil at the hairline for consistent dimension and a softer line of demarcation when growing out. [Instrumental music] Continue on the left side. Remember to keep vertical and consistent with the size of your sections and stitch used. [Instrumental music] Move to the right side top section. Begin in the high point and foil towards the hairline. The foils will look similar to a Mohawk. Continue your sections and slice as before. As you're working this section, it may be necessary to place foils side-by-side to accommodate the natural curve of your client's head. For a softer end result, leave a thin veil of natural hair at the front hairline. Repeat on the left-side top section. [Instrumental music] Move to the back of the head and work in the crown area. Take all of the hair as one section. Start in the right back corner and move across to the opposite side. Continue to use vertical sections that will begin to pivot or become pie-shaped to conform to the shape of the head. Consider bricklaying the foils in this area for best results. Complete the crown area. [Instrumental music] Here is the completed view of what vertical foil placement will look like. [Instrumental music] Diagonal placement is used to create blending, softness and enhance movement. The most common diagonal is 45 degrees. There are two types of diagonal lines that we work with: Diagonal Forward and Diagonal Back. Before we begin placing our foils, we have to section off the head. This will help to keep our foils consistent and to prevent us from losing our place. What we are about to show is sectioning for Diagonal Forward and Diagonal Back foiling techniques. Start by separating the head from side-to-side using a center part. Next, find the high point of the head. This is where your comb rests evenly balanced on the top of the head. From this point, separate front to back by parting from the high point the natural break just behind the ears. Separate the crown by using the round of the head. Place your comb flat in the crown area. Where it lifts off is where we make the part. Clip up the crown area. Separate the nape from the back by placing your comb flat against the nape area. Where it lifts off is where we make the part. Clip up the back and nape right and left sections. In the front, create a pie-shaped section. Start by taking a diagonal parting from the high point of the head to the outer corners of the eye. Secure both right and left sides. This will separate the sides from the top. From the top view, we have four sections that have a pie-shaped pattern that moves around through the sides. Next, we're going to show you Diagonal Forward placement which is used to enhance forward movement in a design and draw the eye forward towards the face. Begin in the right side in the nape area. Place the client's head forward to help make foiling easier. Take a 1/8 to 1/4 inch diagonal section that is at a 45 degree angle. This diagonal starts high on the inside of the section towards the center and moves low on the outside of the section towards the ear. This is the diagonal that enhances movement forward. Choose your stitch. In this case, we will create a standard stitch. Take the hair that has been stitched and place it onto a foil. Apply the formula from scalp to ends. Saturate evenly with product. Make sure not to swirl the ends. This may cause uneven color results. Fold or cover with foil. [Instrumental music] Take another diagonal section. Continue to stitch as before. In this area, the sections go from narrow to wide to narrow. Be sure to stay diagonal. Complete the section and repeat on the left side of the nape, making sure the foils are placed in the opposite direction creating an upside-down "V." [Instrumental music] Move to the back section on the right side. Take diagonal sections and stitch as you did in the nape, keeping the same diagonal. [Instrumental music] As you work in this section, the head becomes wider and it may be necessary to place foils side-by-side to accommodate the client's head shape. Complete the entire section and repeat on the left-side back making sure the foils are placed in the opposite direction creating an upside-down "V." [Instrumental music] The next section is the right side. Check the 45-degree diagonal forward angle by holding your comb vertically next to the section. Place the first foil above the ear. The diagonal begins lower on the outside toward the front hairline and goes higher on the inside towards the ear. Another way to check the angle is by making sure you are parallel with your top parting that travels from the high point to the corner of the eye. Complete this section. Continue on the left side. Remember to keep diagonal and consistent in the size of the section and the stitch use. [Instrumental music] Next, move to the top right side. Continue using the same 45-degree diagonal angle that was previously foiled on the right side. [Instrumental music] Once that is complete, foil the top left side in the opposite direction creating an upside-down "V." Stay diagonal and consistent in the size of the section and the stitch used. Complete the section. Move to the back of the head to work in the crown area, Start on the right side crown. The diagonal of these foils should appear the same as those in the back and nape. Complete this section. [Instrumental music] Repeat on the left side crown working in the opposite direction. [Instrumental music] Here is what the completed look of Diagonal Forward foil placement will look like. [Instrumental music] We are going to show Diagonal Back foil placement, which is used to enhance backward movement in a design by drawing the eye back away from the face. Begin in the right side of the nape area. Take a 1/8 to 1/4 inch diagonal section at the hairline in the back right corner. This diagonal starts high on the outside of the section towards the ear and moves low on the inside of the section towards the center. Choose your stitch. In this case, we will create a standard stitch. [Instrumental music] Place hair onto a foil. Apply formula from scalp to ends. [Instrumental music] Make sure not to swirl the ends. This may cause uneven color results. Fold or cover with foil. Take another diagonal 1/2 inch slice. Continue to stitch as before. As you work in this section, the sections will go from narrow to wide to narrow. Be sure the partings stay diagonal. Complete the entire section. Repeat on the left side of the nape, making sure the diagonal moves in the opposite direction creating a "V." [Instrumental music] Begin in the back section on the right side back corner. From the corner, take diagonal sections and stitch as you did in the nape. As you work in this section, the head becomes wider and it may be necessary to place foils side-by-side to accommodate the section. [Instrumental music] Complete this section. Repeat on the left-side back making sure the diagonal moves in the opposite direction creating a "V." The next section is the right side. Keeping a 45-degree diagonal back angle, place the foil near the hairline. The diagonal begins highest on the outside toward the hairline and goes lower on the inside toward the ear. Complete this section. [Instrumental music] Continue on to the left side. Remember to keep diagonal and consistent in the size of the section and the stitch used. [Instrumental music] Move to the top right side top section. Begin at the front hairline. The diagonal starts low on the inside of the section towards the center and high on the outside of the section towards the ear. Continue sections and stitch as before. Repeat on the left-side top section working with the diagonal in the opposite direction creating a "V." [Instrumental music] Move to the back of the head to work in the crown area. Start on the right side crown. The diagonal of these foils should appear the same as those in the back and the nape. Complete this section. [Instrumental music] Repeat on the left side crown working in the opposite direction. [Instrumental music] This is the completed view of what Diagonal Backward foil placement will look like. [Instrumental music] When doing a foil placement, we are adding contrast and dimension to the hair which can be added in three ways. First, by the size and depth of the pieces we actually pick up and color. We call each of these pieces a stitch. You know, like when you're sewing, the in-and-out motion, only through a section of hair. The second is by the depth of the section, how far apart you place the foils. And the third is by the color you choose. At Redken, we have identified four types of stitches: the micro stitch, the standard/regular stitch, the slice and skip, and the slice. The Micro stitch - the stitches are really close together with a quick up-and-down motion. The micro stitch gives the least amount of contrast. It delivers more blending. The standard stitch - a bigger stitch with a consistent up-and-down motion. Stitches are wider than those in the micro stitch. This gives a balanced amount of contrast. The slice and skip - a very large stitch, with a smoother motion. These stitches are bolder and wider than those of the standard stitch. This delivers the most contrast and appears bolder. The slice - a solid section of hair with no in-and-out motion. This adds contrast with sheets of color falling versus pieces of color. When placing the foils, the further apart your foils are or the more natural hair you leave in between, the more contrast you achieve. Redken's Principle-based Placements will guide you on how to the place of foils to get the best results on every client.