Madrid

(cheers and applause) HOLY (bleep), LOOK AT THIS THING. IT IS A THING OF BEAUTY. (man) SMELL IT AND PUT IT IN YOUR MOUTH. MMM. IT'S RIDICULOUSLY GOOD. MMM. MESSAGE TO GWYNETH PALTROW-- WHAT THE (bleep) IS THE MATTER WITH YOU? MMM... (sighs) HOW CAN YOU DRIVE ACROSS SPAIN AND NOT EAT HAM? MARIO, I LOVE YOU, BUT WHY DO YOU BRING ALONG UNIQUE. WHO CAN'T EAT HAM? I'M PRETTY SURE GOD'S AGAINST THAT. (man) AAH, YEAH! THAT'S RIGHT! I WRITE. I TRAVEL. I EAT, AND I'M HUNGRY FOR MORE. ♪ OOH, YOU'VE GOT TO ♪ ♪ GET LOST ♪ ♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪ SPAIN IS NOT A MONOLITH BY ANY WAY OF THINKING. ITS LANGUAGE, CULTURE AND POLITICS REMAIN LARGELY DIVIDED. BUT MADRID IS THE POLITICAL, GEOGRAPHICAL AND NOW CULTURAL CENTER OF SPAIN. IT'S A VIBRANT, INTERNATIONAL CITY, A PLACE FULL OF LIFE, A MELTING POT. IT'S WHERE YOU'LL FIND PEOPLE AND FOODS FROM ALL OVER SPAIN AND BEYOND. ON THE DAY I ARRIVED IN MADRID FOR THE FIRST TIME, A NEW CHAPTER IN SPAIN'S HISTORY WAS BEING WRITTEN. EVERYTHING STARTED TO CHANGE, OR IT DID CHANGE (cheering) (indistinct yelling) SPAIN'S TEAM WON THE WORLD CUP ON JULY 11, 2010. BUT THIS WIN WAS BIGGER THAN SPORTS. IT SEEMS ALL OF A SUDDEN THAT FOR THE FIRST TIME IN RECENT MEMORY, THIS LARGE, DIVERSE COUNTRY IS KIND OF COMING TOGETHER. THIS IS A BIG DEAL. (man yelling in Spanish) CHEERS. THANK YOU. YOU WERE TALKING ABOUT HOW SIGNIFICANT THIS WORLD CUP VICTORY IS AS FAR AS SORT OF POST-FRANCO POLITICS. OH, DEFINITELY, DEFINITELY. THE HAPPINESS OF THIS COUNTRY GOES FAR BEYOND SOCCER AND SPORTS. FOR THE FIRST TIME IN 40 YEARS, SINCE FRANCO DIED IN '75, EVERYBODY HAS BEEN USING THE FLAG, THE COLORS-- RED, YELLOW-- I MEAN, THAT'S A SIGNIFICANT THING, BECAUSE THE FLAG HAD BAD CONNOTATIONS. SO IN 100 YEARS PEOPLE ARE GONNA TALK OF THIS MOMENT LIKE THE MOMENT THAT SPAIN RECOVERED HIS PATRIOTISM, THAT SPAIN LOOKED IN THE MIRROR AND WASN'T ASHAMED OF HIMSELF. EVERYBODY OF GUILLERMO'S GENERATION AND OLDER REMEMBERS THE PAST HERE. THE 20th CENTURY WAS ROUGH FOR SPAIN, AND ESPECIALLY FOR MADRID. A DEVASTATING CIVIL WAR IN THE '30s THAT GAVE MADRID THE DUBIOUS DISTINCTION OF BEING THE FIRST CITY IN EUROPE TO BE BOMBED BY AIRPLANES. FROM PRE-WORLD WAR II UNTIL THE '70s, FRANCISCO FRANCO'S SPAIN, AND MADRID, HIS SEAT OF POWER, WAS A FASCIST POLICE STATE, HIS REGIME FINALLY ENDING A MERE GENERATION AGO. MERCADO DE SAN MIGUEL IS EMBLEMATIC OF MADRID'S CONTINUED REBIRTH. MARKETS ARE ALWAYS SO BEAUTIFUL IN THIS COUNTRY, IT'S COLORFUL, RIGHT? THE CENTURY-OLD MARKET WAS DILAPIDATED AND ON THE VERGE OF BEING DEMOLISHED WHEN GUILLERMO FESSER AND A GROUP OF CIVIC-MINDED INVESTORS WE'RE SUPPORTING LITTLE FISHERMEN IN THE NORTHWEST SIDE OF THE COUNTRY--GALICIA. YEAH. THAT'S SOME OF THE BEST SEAFOOD IN THE WORLD. MADRILEÑOS ARE USED TO THE GOOD STUFF, WHEREVER IT'S BEST-- SPECTACULAR SEAFOOD FROM GALICIA, PORNOGRAPHICALLY DELICIOUS JAMóN FROM EXTREMADURA, WINES FROM RIOJA-- IT ALL COMES HERE. IT'S ONE OF THE THINGS THAT I LOVE ABOUT THIS COUNTRY IS, YOU KNOW, PLACES THAT YOU CAN EAT THE FOOD AND CHEFS COME HERE, TOO, TRADITIONAL OR FORWARD-THINKING. THE NEW BREED OF CUTTING-EDGE SPANISH CHEFS HAVE MADE THIS COUNTRY THE FOCUS OH, THIS IS BEAUTIFUL. THAT IS THE FRIED OCTOPUS. THAT'S A RESPECTABLE MEAL. MADRID IS SPAIN'S LARGEST CITY, ITS CAPITAL, BECAUSE MADRID DOESN'T HAVE AN IDENTITY, AND THAT'S--OUR IDENTITY IS WE DON'T HAVE AN IDENTITY. WHILE OTHER PLACES ARE TRYING TO PRESERVE THEIR TRADITIONS, MADRID IS ALWAYS TRYING TO FIND HER OWN TRADITION IN WHAT'S NEW NOW. WHERE ARE WE RIGHT NOW? BUT AS YOU'LL SEE, MADRID IS NOT BARCELONA. IT'S NOT SAN SEBASTIáN. IT'S VERY HARD TO NAIL DOWN WHAT IT MEANS TO BE A MADRILEÑO. CASA SALVADOR IS JUST THE KIND OF PLACE I LOVE, FROZEN IN TIME, CONFUSED A BIT BY WHAT'S GOING ON OUTSIDE ITS WALLS, BUT INSIDE CONFIDENT OF WHAT IT DOES WELL (Anthony) I'VE BEEN A LOT OF PLACES. THIS IS ONE OF THOSE RESTAURANTS I ALREADY KNOW I'M GONNA EAT REALLY, REALLY WELL. I ALREADY KNOW I'M GONNA LIKE THIS FOOD. I HAVEN'T EVEN LOOKED AT THE MENU. I HAVE MY GIN AND TONIC. I (bleep) KNOW THAT THIS IS GONNA BE A GOOD MEAL. PEOPLE WHO ARE EATING HERE ARE MOSTLY OLD PEOPLE, 'CAUSE THEY DON'T WANT TO COOK AT HOME, AND THEY'RE HAVING A BREAK. THEY WANT TO EAT THE SAME THING THEY EAT AT HOME. THEY WANT TO EAT MEATBALLS, SPANISH OMELET. THEY WANT TO EAT HAKE. THIS IS A HOME RESTAURANT SPANISH-STYLE. BUT GUESS WHAT? IT'S DISAPPEARING. BACK IN THE '50s, CASA SALVADOR WAS THE PLACE TO BE FOR MADRILEÑO SOCIETY, WHERE AMERICAN MOVIE STARS LIKE ORSON WELLES, RITA HAYWORTH AND AVA GARDNER, WRITERS LIKE ERNEST HEMINGWAY, WOULD HANG OUT WITH THE BULLFIGHTERS, WHO WERE THE ROCK STARS OF THEIR TIME. AVA GARDNER HAD A THING FOR BULLFIGHTERS. BASICALLY, BEST I CAN UNDERSTAND, THIS WAS A PLACE FOR THE CREAM OF THE BULLFIGHTING ELITE AND THE WOMEN WHO LIKED TO (bleep) THEM. (man speaking Spanish) THIS IS... (speaking indistinctly) MMM, IT'S DELICIOUS. CASA SALVADOR IS A CASA DE COMIDAS-- MOM'S COOKING BUT WITHOUT MOM, 'CAUSE SHE PROBABLY WOULDN'T HAVE APPROVED WHAT IS THAT? ZUCCHINI? MMM, BEAUTIFUL. PEPE, NOW IN HIS '70s, LEFT HIS HOME TOWN IN ANDALUSIA TO WORK FOR HIS UNCLE SALVADOR AT THE AGE OF 13. HE STARTED OUT AS A BUSBOY, AND EVENTUALLY WORKED HIS WAY UP TO THE KITCHEN, WHICH HE TOOK OVER AFTER HIS UNCLE'S DEATH. YEAH, IT'S FUNDAMENTAL. WHEN I WAS GROWING UP, EVERY OTHER NIGHT MMM, SO GOOD. YOU CAN'T BEAT IT. AREN'T THE NEW SPANIARDS-- AREN'T THEY SENTIMENTAL ABOUT THIS? IT'S VERY DIFFICULT TO PARSE THE LINE BETWEEN OLD AND ANTIQUE. YEAH, DEFINITELY. YEAH. IN TEN YEARS I THINK THIS COUNTRY WILL UNDERSTAND THAT THIS IS A JEWEL, AND WE SHOULD-- IT'S A-- IT'S LIKE THE MARKET. SOME THINGS--IT'S NICE WHEN THEY STAY THE SAME. WHAT HAS STAYED THE SAME IS THE SPECIALTY OF THE HOUSE-- THE BRAISED OXTAIL. ORIGINALLY MADE FROM THE LOSER OF A BULLFIGHT, OOH, I LOVE THIS. OH, MAN, IT'S COOKED PERFECTLY. LOOK AT IT. IT JUST FALLS RIGHT OFF. WOW. NOW I'M LOOKING AT ALL THE BULLFIGHTING PICTURES ON THE WALL. WHAT DO THEY DO WITH THE BULL AFTER THEY KILL IT? YOU EAT IT. YEAH. REALISTICALLY, WHAT WOULD HAPPEN TO THE LANDSCAPE OF SPAIN, FOR INSTANCE, IF TOMORROW--BOOM-- OKAY, NO MORE? IF YOU REMOVE THE BULLFIGHTING FROM SPAIN, YOU REMOVE THE BULL. THE BULL NEEDS A LOT OF SPACE TO LIVE-- SO IT'S BULLFIGHTING OR CONDOS, YEAH, EXACTLY. IT'S A LITTLE MORE COMPLEX THEN PEOPLE WOULD LIKE TO HAVE YOU BELIEVE. RECENTLY, CATALONIA PASSED A BAN ON BULLFIGHTING. AND ONE WOULD SUSPECT IT'S SYMPTOMATIC OF A LOT OF THINGS THAT ARE GOING AWAY FOREVER AROUND HERE. PEPE IS THE LAST OF HIS FAMILY WITH ANY INTEREST IN RUNNING A RESTAURANT. HE WOULD HAVE LOVED HIS SONS TO, UH-- HE'S GOT FOUR, AND NOT A SINGLE ONE WANTED TO DO IT. WELL, HERE'S A REALLY IMPORTANT QUESTION. WHO WAS HOTTER, AVA GARDNER OR RITA HAYWORTH? (speaking Spanish) SUPERHOT. YEAH, YEAH. SHE--SHE WAS DANGER WITH TWO LEGS. HE SAID--HE SAID--YEAH. SHE LOVED MEN. REALLY? YEAH, SHOWING THE LEGS WITH A SKIRT UP IN THE AIR AND... REALLY? SHE LOVED HAM. SHE'D KILL FOR HAM. SHE DIDN'T EAT A LOT. HAM AND LIQUOR. YES, YES. SPEAKING OF HAM AND LIQUOR... YEAH, LOOK AT THAT. MMM. (cheers and applause) ♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪ (cheering and blowing horns) DAY TWO OF A CONTINUING PARTY ALL ACROSS MADRID. (all) ESPAÑA! ESPAÑA! ESPAÑA! FLAGS HANG EVERYWHERE, SYMBOLIZING THE NEW SPAIN. LET ME ASK YOU A QUESTION ABOUT FOOTBALL, REALLY OFF-TOPIC. YEAH. DO YOU CARE? YOU DON'T-- YOU DON'T--(bleep). I'M ASKING THIS BECAUSE SOMEONE SAID THAT THIS WAS THE FIRST TIME THAT THE FLAG HAS TAKEN ON IT'S TRUE. IT'S BLOODY TRUE. IN A PLACE NOW IN SPAIN, AND THIS FLAG ON THE BACK OF YOU WILL BE A SHOCK TO MYSELF, BECAUSE I SEE YOU NOW FRAMED WITH A (bleep) SPANISH FLAG. SO RIGHT AWAY THAT SAID SOMETHING ABOUT YOU AND YOUR POLITICAL BELIEFS AND YOUR AFFILIATIONS AND WHERE YOU CAME FROM AND ALL OF THOSE THINGS, BUT FOR THE FIRST TIME IN HISTORY, A SILLY SPORT HAS TO SOME EXTENT... UH, CHANGED THAT. CHEERS. MY NEW FRIEND GASPAR, A FORMER WAR CORRESPONDENT TURNED FOOD WRITER, HAS BROUGHT ME TO SAN MAMES. SO WHAT DO THEY DO HERE? HERE THEY MAKE A VERY TYPICAL MADRID CALLOS, AND IT'S KNOWN. SAN MAMES IS WITHOUT ANY QUESTION THE PLACE FOR THE ORIGINAL SOUL FOOD CLASSIC, THE MOM'S MEAT LOAF OF MADRID. I'M TALKING ABOUT CALLOS A LA MADRILEÑA, OR TRIPE, THE STOMACH LINING OF A COW. IT'S A DISH THAT--IT TAKES A LONG TIME TO COOK. AND WHEN YOU FIRST START COOKING IT, IT TASTES LIKE (bleep). YOU KNOW? BUT YOU WALK AWAY. IT'S-- VERY SIMPLE PLACE SERVING TRADITIONAL POOR-PEOPLE FOOD, BUT I SEE, WHAT--THERE'S FERRAN, OF COURSE, VERY YOUNG. THE TOP-- YES, THAT'S IT. BECAUSE ALL OF THEM-- THEY COME HERE. THIS IS A SORT OF MYTHOLOGIC PLACE WHERE YOU COME TO ENJOY FOOD. SO WHY DOES TRIPE HAVE SUCH A HOLD ON THE IMAGINATION? IF YOU BELONG TO A POOR CLASS... YOU WILL BE EATING TRIPE AT HOME. NOT TOO LONG AGO, LIVING, FOR THE MAJORITY OF MADRILEÑOS ANYWAY, WAS HARD. EVERY DAY. EVERY DAY? ALWAYS, BECAUSE IT WAS THE CHEAPEST FOOD. IT'S A DISH EVERYONE HERE KNOWS HOW TO MAKE. YOU GOT YOUR TRIPE, A FEW PIECES OF CHORIZO, SOME MORCILLA, MOSTLY FOR FLAVOR, SOME PORK FAT, THEN YOU STEW UNTIL TENDER, ADD PIMENTóN, AND THE RICH, RED SAUCE REDUCES AND THICKENS UP REAL NICE. IT'S SOMETHING THAT IS A-A SLOW-EATING DISH. RIGHT. IT'S SOMETHING THAT YOU HAVE A BOTTLE OF WINE, "NYACK," AND NOW A CHORIZO AND NOW A PIECE, MM-HMM. BECAUSE YOU SEE, IT'S A VERY COMPLEX DISH. JELLY, MEAT-- THE SAUCE IS DONE WITH CHORIZO, WHICHEVER. OH, YEAH. THAT'S VERY MADRID TRIPE. SO IT'S--IT'S, UH-- IT'S ALL--ALL TRIPE THIS IS MORCILLA. IT'S A DIFFERENT ONE. CHORIZO'S THE RED ONE. MMM. OH, THAT'S JUST WONDERFUL. MMM, THE JELLY'S GREAT. EXACTLY. WOW. HOW LONG AGO WERE PEOPLE IN THIS AREA EATING TRIPE FOUR, FIVE, SIX TIMES A WEEK? 20, 30 YEARS. WASN'T--IT'S NOT THAT LONG AGO. I'M GONNA GUESS THAT--WELL, I DON'T KNOW ABOUT THESE GUYS, BUT PEOPLE OF THAT GENERATION, THEY REMEMBER THOSE DAYS. OH, YEAH, OF COURSE. BUT DO YOU THINK YOUR AVERAGE NEW SPANIARD OH, YEAH. IF YOU SEE THAT I AM ENJOYING SOMETHING, YOUR CURIOSITY WILL COME OUT. GENERALLY SPEAKING. IT'S AN ACT OF SEDUCTION. THERE'S NO CONVINCING SOMEBODY WHO HAS AN AVERSION TO KIDNEYS TO EAT KIDNEYS. ENJOY. GOING, "OH, MAN, THAT'S GOOD. OH, THAT'S GOOD." (speaking indistinctly) IT WAS GOOD FOOD... (speaking indistinctly) TRIPE--DELICIOUS TO ME AT LEAST, BUT FOR MANY IT WASN'T A CHOICE. IT WAS A NECESSITY. AND AS IS OFTEN THE CASE, THE YOUNG GENERATION REBELS AGAINST THE OLD. IT'S NOT AN ANOMALY THEN THAT MADRID HAS BECOME A PLACE WHERE THE NEW AND FURIOUSLY INNOVATIVE IS NURTURED AND CELEBRATED. AT DIVERXO, CHEF DAVID MUÑOZ IS TRYING AND SUCCEEDING TO DO SOMETHING EXCITING AND NEW. (speaking indistinctly) AND IT'S COMING WITH-- WE CALL IT EXO SAUCE. AND THE EXO SAUCE IS THE MOST IMPORTANT SAUCE IN ASIA. WITH--WITH BOTAGRA. BOTAGRA IS THE TUNA... THEN WE HAVE THIS BABY SHRIMP HEADS. MM-HMM. MM-HMM. RIGHT. (speaking indistinctly) WOW, THIS IS COMPLICATED. YEAH, A LOT. (speaking Spanish) SHE SUPERVISING SERVICE, AND DAVID IN THE KITCHEN, COMBINING HIS LOVE OF TRADITIONAL SPANISH DISHES WITH ASIAN, MOSTLY CHINESE, INGREDIENTS AND TECHNIQUES. CHEERS. I CAN'T THINK OF ANOTHER CHEF WHO'S AS INFLUENCED BY THE CHINESE AS YOU ARE. WHY CHINA FOR YOU? DAVID'S 30-- YOUNG FOR BEING THE PREEMINENT NEW HOTSHOT IN TOWN. HE'S ALREADY RECEIVED A SLEW OF AWARDS, HIS FIRST MICHELIN STAR-- YOU KNOW, LIKE THAT. (speaking Spanish) DAVID'S INGENUITY IS PAYING OFF. HE'S MADE THIS DINING ROOM ONE OF THE HARDEST TO GET RESERVATIONS IN EUROPE. IT'S SO HARD TO GET IN THIS BOOKED-SOLID PLACE, THAT DAVID AND ANGELA, WHO GOT MARRIED ABOUT TEN MINUTES AGO, TODAY REALLY, ARE OPENING UP JUST FOR, WELL, ME. YEAH, TODAY. SO, UH, CONGRATULATIONS ON THE AWARD, BY THE WAY. CONGRATULATIONS ON THE WORLD CUP. AND CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR WEDDING. IT'S A GOOD WEEK-- PROBABLY WITHOUT SAYING... IT'S A GOOD WEEK FOR YOU. ONE OF THE THINGS I LOVE BEST ABOUT DAVID'S COOKING IS THE FACT THAT IT SOUNDS, TO ME ANYWAY, LIKE SOMETHING THAT SHOULD PROBABLY SUCK. BUT IT DOES NOT SUCK, MY FRIENDS, OH, NO. WOW, THAT LOOKS GOOD. (speaking indistinctly) (Anthony) LOOKS LIKE SOFT-SHELL CRAB. NORMALLY, THEY DO IT WITH THIS HUGE CRAB-- THEY ARE LIKE, UH, THEY ARE CALLED MUD CRABS. AND--YEAH, THAT'S IT. AND THEY PUT THIS SAUCE WITH TOMATO, CHILI AND EGGS. HERE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE DISH WE HAVE THE TXANGURRO. TXANGURRO IS THE BEST CRAB THAT WE HAVE IN SPAIN. THEN WE HAVE THE SAUCE, AND WE DO IT--TOMATO AND WITH CHILI, MM-HMM. AND CHILI CHIPOTLE FROM MEXICO. AND THEN WE HAVE THE EGG, WHICH IS A PIGEON EGG. (giggles) THANK YOU. 'CAUSE I LIKE IT SPICY, I DON'T MIX IT TOO MUCH. OH, LOOK AT THAT. THAT'S JUST SO CUTE. WHEN YOU NEED TO MOP THE SAUCE WITH BREAD, (laughing) WOW. I'LL TELL YOU RIGHT NOW, IF YOU HAD, LIKE, A SHOP, A TINY LITTLE SHOP WITH A COUNTER IN NEW YORK, AND YOU SOLD JUST THIS, JUST THIS, YOU'D HAVE PEOPLE LINED UP FOR BLOCKS AND BLOCKS-- OR OUT OF THE BACK OF A TRUCK. PEOPLE WOULD GO ABSOLUTELY BAT-(bleep). AND THIS IS REALLY ONE OF THE WORLD'S GREAT IDEAS. IT'S... WOW. AS YOU MIGHT IMAGINE, DAVID'S A DRIVEN GUY, FOCUSED. ONE OF HIS MORE CREATIVE DISHES... (speaking indistinctly) BLACK PUDDING DIM SUM WITH QUAIL EGG, AND IN A STEAMER, PIG'S EAR IN SWEET-AND-SOUR SAUCE. OH, MAN, THIS IS GORGEOUS. I HAVEN'T EATEN THIS DISH, AND I LOVE THIS DISH ALREADY LIKE--LIKE A SON. THAT'S JUST THE GREATEST (bleep) THING EVER. TH-THAT'S A-AWESOME. THAT'S BRILLIANT. YEAH, I LOVE MY WIFE. I LOVE MY DAUGHTER. AND THEN I LOVE THIS. THIS IS EVERYTHING I LOVE ALL IN ONE DISH. ANYTHING WITH AN EGG IN IT, FIRST OF ALL-- AND A PIG'S EAR? OH. THIS SHOULD BE THE NATIONAL DISH. (speaking Spanish) BACK IN THE KITCHEN-- A DAZZLING PROCESSION BOK CHOY. THERE WAS A DIM SUM OF BRAISED OXTAIL, DUMPLINGS WITH BOK CHOY AND RED PALAMóS PRAWNS, WOK-SEARED MONKFISH WITH LOTUS ROOT, CURED BEEF AND BUN WITH BLACK TRUMPET MUSHROOM FILLING, INJECTED WITH CHILI OIL. AH, IT'S ONLY FUN TILL SOMEONE LOSES AN EYE. GALICIAN BEEF WITH NIKKEI MOJO SAUCE AND HUITLACOCHE QUESADILLA... I DON'T KNOW IF I'M GONNA BE HUNGRY AFTER THIS. AND AN AWESOME DISH REFERRED TO AS SPANISH SUCKLING PIG PEKINGESE STYLE. YOU GONNA MAKE IT-- ALL THE FOOD? HE WANTS TO KILL ME. YEAH, I KNOW. THAT'S--THAT'S... AND A LITTLE SHABU SHABU PERHAPS? SEE, NOW THAT'S A WINNING PRESENTATION. I'M HAVING, LIKE, A WEIRD KIND OF A FLASHBACK HERE. I'M SURE GLAD I DON'T DO THAT ANYMORE. CHEF. AN EXTRAORDINARY, EXTRAORDINARY MEAL. I MEAN, IT WAS REALLY, REALLY REMARKABLE. YEAH. THANK YOU. YEAH. YEAH. I JUST DON'T SEE THIS ELSEWHERE. I'M REALLY SUSPICIOUS WHEN PEOPLE TALK ABOUT AUTHENTIC FOOD. LIKE, WHAT DOES "AUTHENTIC" MEAN? YOU GIVE A (bleep) ABOUT THAT KIND OF THING AT ALL? UH, NO. VERY, VERY COOL. THANK YOU SO MUCH. THANK YOU. (both) THANK YOU. AFTER A BRIEF COMMERCIAL INTERRUPTION... THIS WAS PUT TOGETHER BY A PSYCHOLOGIST. IF I'M A SERIAL KILLER OR SOMETHING, MORE GOOD FOOD AND GOOD TIMES. "WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOURSELF AS ANGRY OR VICTIMIZED?" WANT TO KNOW WHAT I REALLY THOUGHT ABOUT THIS PLACE? GO TO travelchannel.com AND CHECK OUT MY BLOG. (cheers and applause) ♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪ (cheering and blowing horns) DAY THREE OF POST-WORLD CUP CELEBRATION ALL ACROSS MADRID-- THE REVELERS FINALLY STARTING TO CRASH, CATCH UP ON THEIR SLEEP, NURSE TITANIC HANGOVERS. BUT THESE MADRILEÑOS LIKE TO PARTY AND STAY UP REAL LATE. THEY EAT REALLY LATE HERE, TOO, LIKE, 10:00 P.M. LATE AND LATER, BY THE WAY. SO, LUCY, GOOD TO SEE YOU AGAIN. CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR GLORIOUS VICTORY IN THE WORLD CUP. EVERYBODY'S GONE ABSOLUTELY CRAZY. THE HANGOVER'S DYING OUT. THE SENTIMENT, THE FEELING AND EMOTION, WILL LINGER FOR A LONG TIME. SO WHERE HAVE YOU BROUGHT ME THIS TIME? THIS IS A FUN PLACE IN MADRID, AND IT'S A KIND OF NEW CONCEPT. IT'S LIKE THE EQUIVALENT OF THE GASTROPUBS IN ENGLAND, BUT IT'S A GASTRO BAR. IT'S A MODERN TAPAS CONCEPT. LUCY GARCIA IS AN OLD FRIEND. MAYBE YOU KNOW HER FROM SUCH SHOWS AS-- OKAY, YOU GET THE POINT. SHE'S BROUGHT ME TO GABINOTECA. (Lucy) TONY, THIS IS NINO, THE CHEF AND OWNER. A PLEASURE. THANKS FOR HAVING US. NINO, WHO COMES FROM A LONG LINE OF RESTAURATEURS, IS THE MASTERMIND BEHIND GABINOTECA. THIS IS OUR FIRST TAPAS. STILTON SMOKED WITH LAVENDER, TWO OF MY FAVORITE THINGS-- AND STILTON. IT'S MY FAVORITE CHEESE. IT'S IN MY TOP THREE. IT'S GOOD, YUMMY. WHISKEY MAKES ME FEEL BETTER ABOUT MYSELF AT HOWEVER LOW I MAY BE EMOTIONALLY. YEAH, IT HAS ITS PLACE. I LOVE THIS DISH. FOIE WITH A SWEET CRISPY CRUST OF CARAMELIZED PINEAPPLE. MM-HMM. YEAH. IT'S NOT CHICHI. IT'S NOT UP ITS OWN ***. IT'S A PLACE YOU CAN GET REALLY CREATIVE, REALLY GOOD FOOD AT A REASONABLE PRICE WHILE YOU GET DRUNK WITH FRIENDS-- EXCELLENT, RIGHT? OOH, I LOVE HOT DOGS. HOT DOG WITH A PEDIGREE. MMM. TOPPED WITH HOMEMADE KETCHUP, A SPECIAL CHEDDAR CHEESE SAUCE, AND CRISPY FRIED ONIONS. OH, THAT'S WAY TOO GOOD FOR ME. I DON'T DESERVE THIS. MMM, BEAUTIFUL. ANOTHER OF NINO'S SIGNATURE DISHES-- GAMBAS AL AJILLO-- A RIFF ON A CLASSIC. FRESH PRAWNS ARE POUNDED AND FLATTENED INTO A THIN CREPE, PLACED ON A STONE, AND QUICKLY--QUICKLY BROILED, GARNISHED WITH OLIVE OIL, MARINATED WITH GARLIC, CHILI, LEMON RIND, AND FINALLY TOPPED WITH MULLET ROE. WOW, NOW THAT'S QUITE BEAUTIFUL. GAMBAS AL AJILLO EN PLAN FINO. SOPHISTICATED--BECAUSE THE TRADITIONAL GAMBAS AL AJILLO YOU HAVE TO EAT WITH YOUR HANDS. RIGHT. DOUBLE, UH... MMM. BOLD. THE BEST. YEAH. WE HAVE TO WHAT? SMELL, YEAH. OH. SEE, AS THE WORLD'S NUMBER ONE EGG ***, THAT'S--THAT'S ALREADY GUARANTEED A GOOD TIME. PURéED POTATO, TRUFFLE-- OH, YES, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, GOD-- AN EGG CODDLED IN A JAR. YEAH. SO THAT ALL THE INGREDIENTS BLEND. WHEN I WAS A LITTLE BOY AND HAD A BAD DAY, WELL, THIS IS LIKE LITTLE KIDS' FOOD, RIGHT, AND I LIKE THAT. AND SINCE GABINOTECA IS ALL ABOUT MAKING YOU FEEL RIGHT AT HOME... (Lucy) CHICKEN WINGS. I LOVE CHICKEN WINGS. OH, YEAH, GLOVES. (laughing) I USUALLY DON'T DO THIS TILL LATER IN THE EVENING. THE CHICKEN WINGS ARE MARINATED IN LIME, SOY SAUCE, HONEY, AND FRESH GINGER, THEN ROASTED. THAT'S GOOD. SEE, I'M DOWN WITH THE WORKING MAN. I'M EATING THE CHICKEN WINGS AT THE BAR. I'D BE LITTLE WEIRDED OUT, LIKE, IF I WALKED INTO, LIKE, T.G.I.FRIDAY'S AT, LIKE, 5:30 AND SAW ALL THESE MEN SITTING AROUND WITH GLOVES ON THEIR HANDS. I WOULD FIND THAT THREATENING. I WOULD BE AFRAID TO GO TO THE BATHROOM ALONE, LET'S PUT IT THAT WAY. FOR DESSERT-- SOMETHING REALLY SPECIAL, IS THAT NITROUS OXIDE IN THERE? NO, NO, THE GAS. IT'S NITROUS OXIDE? OH, YEAH. (laughing) IT'S VERY '80s. AWESOME-- EVEN BETTER WHILE IMPAIRED. THIS IS A LEGAL SUBSTANCE, BY THE WAY. HUH? WHEW, THAT WAS GOOD. (bleating) GUESS WHO'S COMING TO DINNER? (imitating sheep bleating) DON'T KILL ME. (cheers and applause) ♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪ (birds chirping) OUTSIDE MADRID--THE MESA, A VAST, FLAT LAND THAT STRETCHES OUT SEEMINGLY FOREVER. (bell clanging) (sheep bleating) FOR CENTURIES IN THE MIDDLE AGES, WHEN SHEEP-RAISING FOR WOOL WAS SPAIN'S ONLY REAL INDUSTRY, SHEPHERDS PRACTICED THE TRASHUMANCIA-- A PILGRIMAGE OF SORTS-- LEADING THEIR SHEEP TO DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE COUNTRY TO GRAZE DEPENDING ON THE SEASON. SEVERAL HOURS FROM TOWN, I MEET UP WITH ALBERTO AND SHEPHERD-OWNER RICARDO QUINTANA, WHO ARE NEARING THE END OF THE TRASHUMANCIA. (Anthony) WHEN AND WHERE DID THIS LONG MARCH START? (speaking Spanish) (Angelo) YEAH. SO YOU'RE FOLLOWING THE GRASS, BASICALLY. WITH THE ADVENT OF MODERN TRANSPORTATION ALTERNATIVES, THIS TRADITION PRETTY MUCH DIED OUT A LONG TIME AGO. BUT ONE GROUP IS TAKING IT UP THIS YEAR. THE HEAD GUY, MAILLARD, USED TO TRAVEL THE TRASHUMANCIA WITH HIS FAMILY WHEN HE WAS JUST A KID. HE SAID THAT THE CHANGE FROM WHEN HE WAS A CHILD UNTIL NOW-- CHANGED TOTALLY. (speaking Spanish) HE SAID THAT 50 YEARS AGO, 100,000 SHEEP PASSED THROUGH THIS AREA. NOW IT'S NOT TOO MUCH SHEEPS... (speaking indistinctly) BECAUSE THEY THINK THAT THIS IS LOST. IT'S NOT JUST NOSTALGIA. THE SHEEP CLEAR BRUSH, FERTILIZE THE LAND, AND SPREAD SEEDS AS THEY GO. THE JOURNEY LASTS FOR WEEKS, (Anthony) WHEN ARE THEY SLAUGHTERED? (Angelo) OH, YEAH. (bleating) AT LEAST 40 DAYS WITH THE LAMB, WITH THE SMALL BABY. THEN IT'S 30 DAYS EATING... (speaking Spanish) AND THEN THEY SACRIFICE. THE--THE MEAT IS FANTASTIC, FULL OF FLAVOR, STILL NEEDING THE MOTHER'S MILK. RIGHT. MEAT IS ONLY ONE OF THE BENEFITS OF THIS TRADITION. YOU GOT YOUR WOOL. YOU GOT YOUR CHEESE AND A NEVER-ENDING SOURCE FOR JOKES (bleating) IT'S WORTH NOTING FOR ANY LONELY FARM BOYS OUT THERE, THAT FEMALE SHEEP GENITALS ARE SHOCKINGLY SIMILAR TO HUMAN ONES. BUT THEN YOU KNEW THAT ALREADY, RIGHT? WHEN YOU MAKE THE CHEESE, IT'S ONLY PRODUCED WHEN THE SHEEPS EAT GRASS. YOU CAN KINDA SMELL THE AROMAS OF THE GRASS. ROMERO, TOMILLO, AND BOLD, AROMATIC HERBS-- MM-HMM. ♪♪ MOVING 2,000 SHEEP ACROSS THE MESA WORKS UP AN APPETITE, SO WHAT BETTER THAN CALDERETA, A TRADITIONAL SHEPHERD'S STEW? (bleating) THIS IS 2010 AFTER ALL. BUT OTHERS, LIKE THE WILD THYME, CAME RIGHT FROM THIS HILLSIDE. I LIKE LAMB. AND I LIKE CHEESE. (Anthony) YEAH. TORTA DE SERENA. AT ITS BEST, IT'S A VERY LIQUID-Y AND PUNGENT CHEESE, (bleating) THE CHEESE IS INSPIRED TO SIT UP AND COAGULATE WITH THISTLE. AND UNLIKE MOST CHEESES, THE CENTER NEVER REALLY SOLIDIFIES. NOT TOO MANY CHEESES IN THE WORLD USE THIS KIND OF-- YEAH, USUALLY IT'S RENNET. IT'S GOOD. YOU REALLY TASTE THE GRASS. CAN'T BEAT THAT. YEAH. (indistinct conversation) (sighs) THANKS. ♪♪ TIME TO TAKE A SIESTA. BESIDES, THESE TYPE OF STEWS TAKE A LONG TIME TO GET TENDER. (speaking Spanish) YEAH, DO I HAVE ANY GRASS STAINS ON MY BACK YEAH. YEAH. YEAH, YOU GOT IT. YOU GOT IT. EH, SO I LOOK LIKE I'M ENJOYING MYSELF WITH THE SHEEP A LITTLE TOO MUCH. (speaking indistinctly) ARRIBA. THAT'LL WORK. (man vocalizing) (Angelo) IT'S A VERY BASIC RECIPE, RIGHT? IT'S ONION, GARLIC, WHITE WINE, WELL, A LITTLE THYME FROM RIGHT OVER THERE, RIGHT? STEWED MEAT ON A PLATE BY THAT BABBLING BROOK, LIFE IS GOOD. (sighs) (speaking Spanish) THAT'LL WORK. DO YOU THINK STALIN KNEW HOW TO EAT WELL? WHO KNEW BINGE-DRINKING AT A MICHELIN-STAR RESTAURANT COULD BE SO MUCH FUN? (cheers and applause) ♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪ HALFWAY BETWEEN MADRID AND TOLEDO IS ILLESCAS, A TOWN SITUATED IN A BLEAK, INDUSTRIAL LANDSCAPE. THAT'S A GOOD QUESTION. WE ARE HERE ON THE MADRID BORDER. IT'S AN UNLIKELY PLACE TO FIND A MICHELIN-STAR RESTAURANT. BUT SURROUNDED ON EITHER SIDE BY A BUS STOP AND A GAS STATION IS EL BOHIO, AN OASIS OF TRADITIONAL CASTILIAN SPECIALTIES. THE RESTAURANT IS RUN BY BROTHERS PEPE AND DIEGO. ORIGINALLY OPENED BY THEIR GRANDMOTHER AND GREAT AUNT DURING THE SPANISH CIVIL WAR, THEIR CUISINE CONSISTED OF COOKING WHATEVER WAS AROUND. TO FIND SOMEBODY FROM THE LOWER CLASS, AS PEPE AND HIS BROTHER, IS AMAZING. WHILE DIEGO RUNS THE FRONT OF THE HOUSE, PEPE RUNS THE KITCHEN. HE SPENT TIME TRAINING AT elBulli, AMONG OTHER RESTAURANTS. THIS FELLOW HAS RESUMED OLD TRADITIONS AROUND WITH A SORT OF A VERY NEW APPROACH, BUT WITHOUT FORGETTING HIS ROOTS. HE'S DEEPLY A CASTILIAN FELLOW. BUT WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO BE CASTILIAN? FOR INSTANCE, TO USE THE PRODUCTS AND THAT IS BASICALLY, WHAT, GAME? RIGHT. AROMATIC. SMELLY IN A GOOD WAY. IT'S ABOUT THE GRASS. PEPE PUTS A NEW TWIST ON THE OLD RECIPES, MAKING THEM LIGHTER AND APPLYING A MODERN AESTHETIC TO THE PRESENTATION. LIKE HIS CREATIVE REINTERPRETATION OF ONE OF GRANDMA'S DISHES. (man speaking Spanish) (speaking indistinctly) ARE THESE. AND THIS IS WITH, UH, PERDIZ. THEY'RE THE SMALL BIRDS THAT YOU HUNT HERE... OH. PARTRIDGE. BEAUTIFUL. THIS, FOR ME, IS ONE OF THE BEST DISHES HE-- IT'S A VERY CLASSICAL THING. IT'S ONE OF THOSE THINGS-- THE FIRST TIME YOU HEAR IT. AND SARDINES? NO, NO, NO, NO, NO, NO, NO. (speaking indistinctly) SALT VERSUS FAT-- OF COURSE IT'S GOOD. (speaking Spanish) ARISTOCRATIC WINE. WHAT DOES THAT MEAN, AN ARISTOCRATIC WINE? (speaking indistinctly) HE'S A VERY WELL-KNOWN FELLOW. (man speaking Spanish) ROPA VIEJA-- NO BETTER EXAMPLE OF FUSING CONTEMPORARY, AVANT GARDE INTERPRETATIONS IT'S MADE OUT WITH ALL THE REST OF OTHER THINGS--ALL THE REST. TRY IT. A RECIPE PICKED UP DURING A STINT IN CUBA, BUT COMBINED WITH CLASSIC CASTILIAN INGREDIENTS, THAT'S THE BASE OF THE DISH. TRY THAT AND FREAK OUT. MMM. SO MANY OF THE GREAT, GREAT DISHES MIGRATED FROM THE TABLES OF THE POOR YEAH, YEAH. AND WHAT'S BETTER THAN GREAT CASTILIAN WINE? MORE OF IT-- LOTS MORE OF IT. SO YOU COME BACK HERE. YOU'VE BEEN A WAR CORRESPONDENT, YEAH, I MEAN-- YEAH, I'VE BEEN UP AND DOWN HERE AND DOWN THERE. HOW DID YOU COME TO WRITE ABOUT RESTAURANT PROFESSIONALS? WHEN I CAME BACK HERE, I KNEW WHERE TO GET, SO WAIT A MINUTE, LET ME BACKTRACK. I MEAN, I-- YOU'RE--YOU'RE LOOKING AT YOUR OPTIONS. YEAH. "I COULD DEAL NARCOTICS, OR I COULD WRITE ABOUT FOOD." YEAH, BUT IT'S-- I MEAN, IS IT-- YOU KNOW, DID-- THIS IS, UH-- BONES, LEGUMES. RIGHT. IT IS NOT. IT'S A PIECE OF MEAT. (laughing) IT IS BEAUTIFUL. MMM. IT'S MAGIC. IN OTHER COUNTRIES, BINGE DRINKING AT A MICHELIN-STAR RESTAURANT MIGHT BE FROWNED UPON. BUT IN SPAIN APPARENTLY IT'S PERFECTLY ACCEPTABLE. AT LEAST I HOPE IT IS. DO YOU THINK STALIN KNEW HOW TO EAT WELL? NO, PROBABLY NOT. STOP DONKEYS. THE CANCER OF THIS COUNTRY IS THE ARISTOCRAT. WE CAN TALK WITH GOD. GOD'S SPEAKING. YES. AND TO ROUND OUT MY MADRILEÑO GASTRO TOUR... IT MEANS, "OLD CLUB." YEAH. THAT'S IT. THAT'S IT. (cheers and applause) ♪ NO RESERVATIONS ♪ ♪♪ LOOK AT THIS THING. IT IS A THING OF BEAUTY. WE'RE TALKING ABOUT SOME OF THE BEST HAM IN THE WORLD, I WOULD SAY IT IS THE BEST ONE. THIS ONE IS THE BEST. YEP. IT'S A BLOODY GOOD ONE. THE ONE THING SPANISH THAT I LOVE ABOVE ALL OTHERS IS THE HAM. ENJOY. SMELL IT. THAT'S IT. AND PUT IT IN YOUR MOUTH. MMM. THE BITTERNESS. I-I TASTE THE, UM, THE UMAMI SORT OF FLAVOR. THERE IS NOTHING LIKE IT, RIGHT? IS THERE ANY SINGLE SPANISH PRODUCT THAT IS BETTER THAN THIS? NO, FOR ME, THAT'S TOP. ALL RIGHT, YOU DIDN'T--YOU DIDN'T HAVE TO THINK ABOUT THAT. NO. NO. IT'S UNIQUE. IT'S ONLY IBéRICO IF IT COMES FROM THE RIGHT BREED OF RARE BLACK-HOOVED PIG. AND IT'S GOTTA BE RAISED IN A PARTICULAR REGION OF WESTERN SPAIN WHILE ROAMING FREE ON THE ACORN-STUDDED DEHESA... IT'S RIDICULOUSLY GOOD. AND ONLY CURED AND DRIED IN A SPECIAL, ARTISANAL WAY, A CERTAIN BREEZE OF A CERTAIN HUMIDITY COMING FROM A CERTAIN DIRECTION FOR ABOUT FOUR YEARS. OH. TONY, YOU SEE, IT'S PURE. IT'S NO GARLIC. IT'S NO HERBS. IT'S NOTHING. IT'S ENLIGHTENMENT IN A MOUTHFUL. IT'S SMASHING. TO PASS THROUGH SPAIN AND NOT TRY THIS MOST TRADITIONAL, MOST-LOVED EXPRESSION OF SPANISH HISTORY AND CULTURE IS LIKE LETTING THE GREAT LOVE OF ONE'S LIFE SLIP THROUGH ONE'S FINGERS. ONE IS, OR SHOULD BE DOOMED TO A HOLLOW, JOYLESS DESCENT INTO EVER-DEEPER REGRET, INCONTINENCE, AND DEATH. FOR ME, I WILL SHOT MYSELF EVERY MORNING WITH A BLOODY GOOD JAMóN... (speaking indistinctly) (laughing) (indistinct conversation) TXOKO. TXOKO MEANS-- IT--IT'S A BASQUE WORD. IT MEANS "OLD CLUB" LIKE COSA NOSTRA. IT'S LIKE THE RACCOON LODGE IN "THE HONEYMOONERS," WHERE GUYS GET TOGETHER AND COOK. GUYS GET TOGETHER, PUT ON APRONS, COOK, AND GET DRUNK. THIS TXOKO IS A MEMBERS-ONLY CLUB, ORGANIZED BY OFF-DUTY CHEFS TO TAKE ON THE SPANISH TRADITIONS OF WHAT WERE ONCE ALL-MALE GASTRONOMIC SOCIETIES. THEY FIND OR CREATE A SPACE, A CLUBHOUSE, IF YOU WILL, AND PLAY AROUND WITH AND REDISCOVER TRADITIONAL DISHES THAT MIGHT OTHERWISE HAVE DISAPPEARED, LIKE THIS ONE-- MARMITAKO, AND OLD-SCHOOL BASQUE FISHERMAN'S STEW. YOU SEE, THEY'RE PREPARING THE MEAT OF THE MARMITAKO. (laughter) MM-HMM. (speaking Spanish) MARMITAKO. (man) FISHERMAN... FISHERMAN'S COOKED WITH BONITO. BONITO. A SMALL TUNA FISH. PEPPER. RIGHT. (speaking indistinctly) WHAT DO CHEFS EAT IN THEIR PRIVATE MOMENTS? WHAT DO THEY CRAVE? THEY REVERT TO CHILDHOOD, OF COURSE. SIMPLE DISHES LIKE TORTILLA-- THIS ONE WITH RED PEPPERS AND THE AMAZING BOQUERONES-- SPANISH WHITE ANCHOVIES-- WHAT WOULD YOU CALL THIS? MMM, THAT'S A PEPPER. MMM. IT'S HALFWAY BETWEEN A STRING BEAN CORRECT. (indistinct conversation) SO YOU GUYS DO THIS EVERY FEW WEEKS. YOU ALL COME HERE. YOU STAND AROUND WITH A BUNCH OF OTHER GUYS. YEAH. PRETTY MUCH, RIGHT? I MEAN, I--WHEN I CAME IN HERE, IT WAS ALL LEFTOVER BOTTLES FROM LAST NIGHT. I DON'T KNOW. I'M NOT MARRIED. IT'S GOOD TO BE A CHEF, OR HAVE BEEN ONE ONCE. IT'S JUST GOOD TO BE HERE. WHATEVER GOT ME IN THIS ROOM WITH THESE PEOPLE, THIS FOOD-- A GOOD THING. IT'S BLOODY SHRIMP-- COSTS YOU A FORTUNE. FIRST UP-- FRESH RED GAMBAS SERVED RAW, SIMPLY TOSSED WITH OLIVE OIL AND LEMON JUICE. (Anthony) OH, WOW. SWEET. NEXT--THAT WONDERFUL TORTILLA. MMM. THE OMELET IS ABSOLUTELY FANTASTIC. THIS IS OFF THE HOOK. AND THE MARMITAKO. OH, YEAH. MARMITAKO-- DOES IT MEAN SOMETHING? THE DISH-- THE DISH WHERE YOU MAKE IT. OH, IT'S BEAUTIFUL. FLAVOR IS PERFECT. MMM. IT'S GORGEOUS. IN THE OLD DAYS, MADRID CUISINE WAS DEFINED BY WHAT WAS AROUND MADRID, AND ONLY WHAT WAS AROUND MADRID, RIGHT? BUT NOW AND FOR QUITE A LONG TIME, MADRID CUISINE HAS BECOME DEFINED MADRID HAS ITS OWN PERSONALITY MAKE OUT OF PEOPLE LIKE SACHA THAT COMES FROM GALICIA, FROM CATALAN COUNTRY, FROM BASQUE COUNTRY. BUT MADRID IS VERY MUCH LIKE NEW YORK. WHY IS NEW YORK GREAT? BECAUSE EVERYBODY FROM EVERYWHERE ELSE COMES IN IT'S A BRAVE NEW WORLD IN MADRID, BUT THE OLD ONE CERTAINLY HAD ITS GOOD POINTS. I AGREE WITH YOU. SALUD. ONE THING'S FOR SURE, I'LL BE COMING AROUND THESE PARTS AGAIN. TO SPAIN-- (speaking Spanish) (man singing in Spanish) Closed Captions provided by Scripps Networks, LLC. Captioned by Closed Captioning Services, Inc.